Monday, March 16, 2020

विदेशी बाला की 'दूल्हा' बनी भारतीय लड़की, दुल्हन ने रिसेप्शन में पहना सब्यसाची का लहंगा March 16, 2020 at 07:44PM

फेमस फैशन डिजाइनर सब्यसाची मुखर्जी के एक इंस्टाग्राम पेज पर सेम सेक्स मैरेज करने के बाद दिए गए रिसेप्शन की बेहद खूबसूरत तस्वीरें शेयर की गई हैं। इस पार्टी में ब्राइड katja hahnloser भारतीय परिधान पहनी काफी सुंदर नजर आ रही थीं तो वहीं उनकी ग्रूम बन चुकीं ayesha nageshwaran काफी स्मार्ट दिख रही थीं।

A Note Of Appreciation For The Thoughtful Retailers Closing Their Doors Right Now

As the world dives deeper into a collective state of uncertainty, you may feel like you’re drowning in the constant stream of bad news and alarming information flooding our feeds and networks. We’re right there with you. While we usually look to one another for support during times of unease, seeking out the shoulder of a loved one to cushion our heavy heads, that kind of comfort is no longer an option in the unchartered waters of social distancing. So as we retreat indoors with the intention of staying put for the foreseeable future, our digital communities have become more important than ever before. And while we weren’t expecting it, some of our favorite fashion and beauty retailers are giving us new reason to appreciate their online presence and it has nothing to do with product.

Since no one is immune to the coronavirus and the havoc it now wreaks on our daily lives, we’ve been presented with an opportunity to pull back the curtain on the establishments we frequent to see what they’re really all about. For the many companies that pride themselves on an ethos of thoughtfulness and empowerment — now’s the time to show instead of tell. And with companies like LVMH using its perfume factories to produce hand sanitizer and Prada donating six intensive care units to hospitals in Milan, the true colors of certain retailers are shining bright in this moment of darkness.

Beloved brands like Glossier are putting the safety of their staff and customers first by closing their doors despite short-term business goals. Founder Emily Weiss even published a blog post on her company’s website to go into further detail about this decision, assuring readers that staff will be paid regardless as the team is “prepared to put public health ahead of our bottom line.” Retailers such as Anthropologie and Urban Outfitters are doing the same. In a letter to its community, Aritzia even announced that all of its profits during this time will go to the Aritzia Community™ Relief Fund to support its people and their families, and even more companies are donating profits to COVID-19 relief efforts.

Many of these retailers already had our wallets, but they’ve now got our hearts too as they seek to engage their audiences more authentically. Weiss, for example, took to Instagram to reflect on how Glossier can continue bringing joy to its community while respecting calls for social distancing and public safety. Reformation passed the mic to its followers to better understand what kind of content a retailer should be producing right now, writing: “What’s resonating with you? Do you still want to hear about new collection launches and sustainability stuff? Or do you need a break? Please let us know.” But first, the brand announced the closure of its stores with paid time off for its retail teams.

This is a complicated time for retail, so we wanted to acknowledge the companies doing their best to establish a new normal without compromising their commitments to both customers and employees. And we don’t just want to thank these retailers for taking such considered action, we’d like to take a page out of their Insta-books and turn to our own audience for guidance — it’s a complicated time for us as publishers too, after all. So tell us what you want to see more (and less!) of over the coming weeks so we can create the content you’re craving right now. But first, check out the messages from retailers we believe are doing the right thing and, if you can, support them by shopping online.

COVID-19 has been declared a global pandemic. Go to the CDC website for the latest information on symptoms, prevention, and other resources.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team, but if you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Reformation

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A few words on Ref and COVID-19.

A post shared by Reformation (@reformation) on Mar 14, 2020 at 7:01am PDT

Everlane

Anthropologie

Allbirds

Chillhouse

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A chill break ahead…

A post shared by Chillhouse (@chillhouse) on Mar 15, 2020 at 7:34pm PDT

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The Met Gala Has Been Indefinitely Postponed

NEW YORK, NY – MAY 06: Rapper Cardi B is seen arriving to the 2019 Met Gala Celebrating Camp: Notes on Fashion at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 6, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Gilbert Carrasquillo/GC Images)

After much speculation over whether or not the Met’s annual fashion gala would, in fact, take place despite the COVID-19 outbreak, we’ve received the final word: The 2020 Met Gala is postponed indefinitely. 

Prior to today’s announcement, events and destinations all over the world — including the Louvre, Coachella, Disneyland, Broadway, and more — have either been called off or closed down in an effort to slow down the global pandemic. But despite the Met itself closing its Fifth Avenue doors last Thursday, we weren’t quite convinced that the Met Gala would follow suit. It is, after all, an Anna Wintour-led event, and like Vogue’s editor-in-chief, it seemed indomitable. Alas, with CNN putting the number of coronavirus deaths worldwide at 6,500 and New York City’s number of cases surging from 729 to 950 since Sunday, the decision to postpone had to be made.

According to Vogue, the final call came down to New York’s Governor Andrew Cuomo’s announcement this morning that no gatherings with over 50 people in attendance were to take place for the next eight weeks. Governors from New Jersey and Connecticut made the same decision. The Met decided, according to a museum spokesperson, that “in deference to this guidance, all programs and events through May 15 will be canceled or postponed.” And since the Gala famously takes every year on the First Monday in May — this year’s engagement was set to take place on the 4th of the month — it too had to be pushed.

This year’s exhibition, “About Time: Fashion and Duration,” which was to be hosted by Louis Vuitton’s creative director of womenswear Nicolas Ghesquière, alongside  Emma Stone, Meryl Streep, Lin-Manuel Miranda, and, of course, Anna Wintour, was expected to be one for the record books, even after 2019’s very over-the-top camp theme. For now, though, we’re holding out hope that once the threat of coronavirus has been terminated, we’ll still get the chance to see how this year’s theme is brought to life. 

While we wait, Anna Wintour herself gave us one thing to look forward to: a sneak peek of the About Time exhibition in Vogue’s May issue. Meet you at the newsstands at the end of April?

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Prada Donates Six ICUs To Milanese Hospitals

MILAN, ITALY – MAY 02: Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada attend Fondazione Prada Press Conference on May 2, 2015 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Fondazione Prada)

Yesterday, Italy reported a devastating 368 deaths in just 24 hours. In the wake of such news, the fashion community is responding quickly, starting with LVMH, which halted production on perfume and cosmetics to instead dedicate its factories to making hand sanitizer. And today, Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada, the co-CEOs of Milan-based fashion company Prada, donated six Intensive Care Units, or ICUs, to three separate hospitals in Milan: San Raffaele, Sacco, and Vittore Buzzi, the last of which is a children’s hospital. 

Italian influencer Chiara Ferragni and her husband Fedez also made a donation to the cause. Last Monday, the couple donated 100,000 euros to San Raffaele hospital to go towards providing more beds for patients in the ICU through a GoFundMe set up by the hospital’s head of cardiovascular and general intensive care units. After Ferragni posted the donation page’s link on her Instagram page — which boasts 18.8 million followers — Dr. Zangrillo’s GoFundMe raised over 4,198,860 euros and counting. 

Italian fashion designer Giorgio Armani donated 1.25 million euros to Milanese hospitals, including Luigi Sacco, San Raffaele, and the Istituto dei Tumori, as well as the Istituto Lazzaro Spallanzani in Rome. A portion of his donation will also support Italy’s civil defense otherwise known as the Protezione Civile, according to WWD. Donatella Versace and her daughter followed suit, donating 200,000 euros to San Raffaele on March 13. “This is when we, as a society, need to stand together and care for one another,” the mother-daughter duo said in a statement. In February, the Italian fashion house contributed 1 million renminbi, equivalent to about $143,400, to the Chinese Red Cross Foundation.

Vice reported yesterday that Italy’s civil protection chief put the total number of cases in the country at 24,747, with 3,590 just diagnosed yesterday. As the number of infected people increases, so too does the need for beds and medical supplies in hospitals, making these donations increasingly important to treating COVID-19 in Italy, one of the epicenters of the global pandemic.

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How to Support Small Businesses During The Pandemic

If you, like most of us, are staying home to prevent the spread of coronavirus, it can be hard not to feel helpless, especially since it seems like each day the circumstances surrounding the pandemic are becoming more and more grim. Outside of those who are becoming seriously ill, the situation is already severely impacting service and independent workers in addition to small businesses including shops and fashion brands. With governmental restrictions growing, more brands are being forced to close their storefronts, causing more people to lose jobs and money. And while the situation is taking a real toll on global businesses, these measures are absolutely necessary in order to halt the spread of COVID-19. But there are still things you can do to support local businesses, especially when we live in the age of shopping online.

As the owner of Philadelphia’s multi-purpose shop YOWIE, Shannon Maldonado says that since closing the retail space a few days ago, sales have been much lower, but she is actively working to update the store’s webshop in order to hopefully fuel a boost in sales. “I feel both privileged to own a small business and terrified of what this pandemic will do as we still operate on a very small scale where every sale counts,” she says. People’s buying behavior is also shifting — instead of buying up the store’s limited edition t-shirts and home goods, consumers are opting for accessories like puzzles to pass the time and local snacks from its pantry section.

Maresa Ponitch opened her vintage retailer Dusty Rose Vintage in 2008 during the recession. While her physical space, Dusty & Friends, was still open last week, there was a huge drop-off in sales. “Financially, there isn’t much we can do if people stop buying,” she says. “We are a very community-oriented business and our community is full of folks impacted by hits to the service and event industries.” As a company, she’s doing her best to reach people online and offer products people might want most at this time, i.e. things that are cozy. Pontich thinks people might assume that all small businesses will qualify for governmental assistance but that many aren’t eligible or benefit from the type of support offered.

Austin-based apparel brand and storefront Esby Apparel is experiencing a major hit both in person and online, especially since South By Southwest was cancelled this year (the event is said to amass over 150,000 people annually). “I have a small team to support and it’s scary to think we may be forced to shut down our shop and alter our usual plans due to this virus,” the brand’s founder Stephanie Beard tells Refinery29. “For now, we are focusing our efforts on our website, so customers can easily shop from home.” When customers are shopping, Beard has noticed that they are spending less than they usually would and opting for more “supportive purchases” of smaller, lower-priced items.

“When the crisis first hit New York, we saw an immediate 50% dip in sales across all three of our stores, and this continues to rapidly decline,” says Liz Power, owner of Brooklyn’s Awoke Vintage. “We’re so fortunate that our customers are loyal and supportive and that our Instagram sales have been rapidly increasing.” In an Instagram post, the company shared that while their three storefronts are now closed, its hourly staff will still be paid and 100% of e-gift card sales will go towards payroll.

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Our stores will be closed to the public from Monday March 16th. ⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ It is an immensely hard decision to make for all small businesses when cash flow is already very tight. ⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ We will still be posting to our Instagram Stories and operating online. ⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ Our hourly staff will still be paid during this time.⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ We have set aside 100% of e-giftcard sales to go towards payroll. ⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ Thank you to everyone who has supported us over the past few days, weeks, and years. ⁠⠀ Please continue to support all small businesses in your local areas by⁠⠀ 1- Writing a Google/Yelp Review⁠⠀ 2- Buy a giftcard⁠⠀ 3- Shop their Instagram/Online⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ We will continue to offer 20% Off all e-gift card purchases (you can use them right away or save them for a future date. They never expire). Use code “NEWYORKLOVE”⁠⠀ https://squareup.com/gift/630VJHWR86APF/order⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ Link for egift cards in bio.⁠⠀ ⁠⠀ If anyone is feeling anxious and fatigued by clickbait articles – Bill De Blasio’s daily afternoon addresses to New York are full of useful information.

A post shared by Awoke Vintage: Brooklyn (@awokevintagebrooklyn) on Mar 15, 2020 at 8:41am PDT

“As a small business without people walking into the store we will not be able to pay rent or other essential small business costs,” says Walk the West owner Clotilde Testa. While she says it’s going to be a difficult few months, her company has applied for more information about small business loans support from the New York City government. 

Then there’s The Consistency Project, which only opened in December 2019 and was just starting to hit its groove earlier this month. “Being only three months old it was already an uphill battle to get the shop and team in a great spot so this past week has really felt like we were pushed back down a hill only to figure out how to climb back up,” says owner Natasha Halesworth. “What keeps me up at night is not just making ends meet for the business and my family but actually having the livelihood of others, my team, in my hands.” 

So how can you support small businesses during these difficult times? Ponitch says if you’re in a stable position to keep shopping. She’s also offering consulting sessions via phone/FaceTime/Skype for clients who are looking for styling assistance or interested in learning how to scale a vintage business. Though it might feel like a weird time to shop right now, Maldonado says to try and understand that it’s also a weird time for businesses to be attempting to sell things but that your purchases are supporting small businesses and not big corporations (who likely have resources/funds in place for circumstances like this). 

“We need your support everyday but we need it now more than ever!” Power adds, “Fashion and shopping are not just about clothes, it’s people’s businesses, jobs and livelihoods. It’s our customers’ identity, self-expression and self-esteem, all of which arguably feel more important during a crisis in which people are feeling unsettled. Or at the very least provide some much-needed relief from the tension!”

Beard is asking her followers to shop her brand’s new spring arrivals and/or sales section. “If you don’t see something you like right now, or your size is out of stock, please consider purchasing a gift card to use on a future item.” 

While there’s a lot of content circulating about COVID-19 right now, social media is the perfect tool for supporting small businesses; shop Instagram sales, buy gift cards, like and comment on brand content, share about your favorite purchases online and plug the ones that need more support. You can even leave a positive Yelp review or Google. “Let the folks you appreciate know,” Ponitch says. “Sometimes just knowing that people do recognize your contribution to your community gives a little extra boost.”

“If people continue to spend money towards ALL small and local businesses this will inadvertently support our business,” Halesworth explains. “At this time it is not just about us. If we survive but all the other small businesses don’t, that is still not good for us as many will lose their jobs, therefore have no money to live, let alone spend on clothing.” Now more than ever, small brands and businesses need our support. So if you have the funds, go ahead and get online shopping.

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This Spanish Fashion Startup Wants To Disrupt The Sale Cycle

It’s no secret that the fashion industry is in a time of flux. The traditional retail model — which has remained the same for more than seven decades —  is adapting, albeit slowly, to changing consumer demands, with the introduction of the sharing economy and “see now, buy now” fashion — not to mention the fact that online shopping has completely upended the entire game. But with the exception of resort, pre-spring, and pre-fall, most designers are still on a traditional calendar, showcasing only two collections per year during either February or September fashion week. Once pieces are on the market, they typically stay at full price until one or two big sales per year when stores clear out to prepare for the next season. In other words, if you want a discount, you have to wait for it. 

One Spanish startup, however, is looking to change all that. 

Vasquiat, a members-only e-commerce platform, provides shoppers with the opportunity to receive discounts on curated fashion collections before they even make it to the market. Here’s how it works: Rather than waiting to see what’s leftover at the end of the season,  Vasquiat rewards those who think ahead by allowing them to pre-order items from brands, reducing the risk of overproduction on the brand side. By following this model rather than the traditional one, designers can manufacture a more accurate number of pieces, while consumers receive a discounted price. Brands receive more profit using this model because they’re able to receive direct sales even before their collections are released, as well as customer feedback and data.

“If customers anticipate and think ahead, they are rewarded,” co-founder and fashion director Blanca Miró says. “The price we offer is between wholesale and full price.”According to Forbes, the wholesale price is typically about 50% off the retail price. With Vasquiat, the closer you get to the product’s delivery date, the closer the price will move toward the retail price. So, the earlier you order, the cheaper the product will be. 

Miró, a Madrid-based fashion influencer boasting 390k followers on Instagram, founded the company with her longtime friend Rafa Blanc, the company’s CEO. “Rafa approached me and explained the idea to me,” Miró says. “There was already a concept for a disruptive fashion model in place — I just completed the business model.” Miró’s eye for what consumers want, plus her creative sense of style, made her the missing piece in Blanc’s plan. “He needed someone who was innovative and prominent in the fashion world to bring the idea to life.”

Vasquiat sells only the coolest brands on the scene right now, all of which are curated personally by Blanca. “I discover new brands on a daily basis and love this job as there are so many amazing designers that deserve to be given a platform for their beautiful work,” she says. “Some of the things we look for are global positioning, authenticity, and personality. My aim is to surprise our customers.” 

Currently making it to Vasquiat’s list of brands are French footwear brand Adieu, New York-based basics brand Kule, Valentine Witmeur Lab, Wald Berlin, Leret Leret, Heimat Atlantica, Shrimps, Baum Und Pferdgarten, and more. “I travel, read magazines, scour Instagram, observe people and ask them what they’re wearing — when I see something special, something very Vasquiat, I know that I have to include the brand or the item,” says Miró. 

On top of being mutually beneficial for brands and consumers alike, the Vasquiat model is also more sustainable for the planet. “Reversing the shopping cycle reduces the risk of overstocking and allows production to be much more accurate,” Miró explains. “It means less waste and more of a sustainable way to consume. It’s critical that brands sell on demand as much as possible.” 

Fashion has long since had a waste problem, something that’s only just recently started being addressed. In September of 2018, Burberry announced that it would finally stop burning $36 million worth of overstock per year. It’s been reported that H&M, Nike, and Louis Vuitton were also guilty of destroying leftover merchandise at the end of the season. According to Vogue Business, the pivotal issue with overproduction is brands’ uncertainty over whether or not they’ll produce enough. Many brands fear that if they underproduce, they’ll end up losing both sales and customers. 

Vasquiat offers a solution to that issue, allowing brands to better predict the number of items they need to produce in order to meet demand. “We try to estimate as accurately as possible how much production they need to do, which, in turn, saves them costs,” Miró says. Despite its newness (Vasquiat celebrated its one-year anniversary in November), brands were quick to catch on. “At first we didn’t know if brands would understand this new concept, but since we launched, we have had a ton of brands approach us.” In addition to the reverse shopping model, Miró explains that designers and brands are attracted to Vasquiat because of its carefully curated selection of brands. 

Customers are catching on too. And after successful stints in both New York and Barcelona, Rafa Blanc and Blanca Miró are determined to make Vasquiat’s model the norm rather than the exception. One look at the platform’s selection of discounted merchandise and we’re betting that you’ll agree with them. 

Below, explore some of our favorites from this season’s selection on Vasquiat.

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The Very Queer, Extremely Relevant Power Of A Good Waistcoat

The last time I was seriously considering the debonair potential of a waistcoat, I was eight and raiding the dress-up box for something pirate-appropriate – striped t-shirt, eye-patch, and kohl moustache included. The black velvet waistcoat I found then, much too large with little silver buttons bright as doubloons, is now hanging in my wardrobe again. These days it actually fits. It looks great over silk shirts or alongside high-waisted trousers. It offers a suave, almost theatrical mood – like I should be a slightly subdued circus ringmaster, or, when it’s paired with a black velvet pencil skirt, a sixties secretary with delusions of beatnik grandeur. 

Neither of those reference points are responsible for the grand waistcoat renaissance of late, though. Instead, we can probably lay the responsibility partly at the feet (or should that be laced boots?) of Little Women. Winning an Oscar for her frilled, caped visions of girlhood, costume designer Jacqueline Durran has undoubtedly helped buoy the current taste for prairie style dress. However, alongside the more feminine trappings of Greta Gerwig’s reimagining of Louisa May Alcott’s classic, there are other details that linger. Namely, Jo March’s waistcoats. She wears them in black velvet over blue shirts, and yellow and red brocade accompanied by a striped neck-scarf. They set her squarely apart from her sisters, suggestive in their comfortable fit and masculine tailoring of her restless desire for freedom. It’s a desire that’s hard to reconcile – a request to be unfettered by the confines of gender, to write and live and love as suits her rather than as expected. 

However, her waistcoats aren’t just about independence. Instead they are also a tether – providing a close point of affinity with Laurie as the childhood friends swap garments back and forth. That same yellow and red brocade vest moves from Timothée Chalamet to Saoirse Ronan over the course of the film, marking not only the passing of time but also the casual intimacy of an item of clothing that continues to be shared even as the wearers move apart.  

It’s not just Jo, though. Recent seasons have seen the fashion world enthusiastically embrace the waistcoat. For SS20 they appeared alongside pinstriped trousers and wide-collared shirts at Louis Vuitton, layered over seventies-style blouses at Celine, worn beneath matching blazers and trench coats at MaxMara, and paired with shorts and knee-high boots at Saint Laurent. Their popularity isn’t set to wane either; their presence notable in several recent AW20 shows including Burberry, The Row, and Preen. They were also found in up-and-coming Finnish designer Ella Boucht’s graduate collection as part of the Central Saint Martins MA show in London, with Boucht telling Vogue that the collection – combining bold tailoring, playful cut-outs, sports bras and waistcoats with harness backs – aimed to help “fill the lesbian void in fashion.” 

Most explicitly at Boucht’s show, and implicitly elsewhere, the waistcoat often figures as an enjoyably charged sort of garment. One that, when worn by women and non-binary people, has formed part of a rich tradition of menswear being adopted by those historically denied the cultural power and privilege embodied in the seams of a suit. This has been an endeavor by turns deeply serious, deliberately subversive, and flamboyantly exciting, depending on context. 

And it’s a very specific bit of menswear. First introduced in the West by Charles II, the occasion was marked by diarist Samuel Pepys in 1666 noting the King’s proclamation of “setting a fashion” for “a vest.” Over the next few centuries the garment veered between ornately decorative and soberly serious, eventually prefiguring the more contemporary three-piece suit when nestled beneath well-cut jackets — helping to create a neatly streamlined silhouette for 19th Century men wishing to show off their slender waists. In its modern incarnation, it has been a garment both useful (warm, not requiring laundering as frequently as the shirts it partially covers) and highly aesthetic (slimming, decorative, indicative of very particular formal dress codes). 

Reasons for women and non-binary people donning waistcoats have been much more varied and complex. Sometimes it was practical. Think of  19th Century French writer George Sand walking through Paris clad in a grey overcoat with matching trousers and waistcoat — as written about brilliantly by Lauren Elkin in Flâneuse — her garb affording her an exhilarating liberation not usually experienced by women. Or Katharine Hepburn, who always prioritized comfort and was once denied entrance to the lobby of Claridge’s Hotel in London for doing so (she refused to change out of her trousers and went in by the service entrance instead). There’s a gorgeous photo of Hepburn from her later years dressed in a powder blue suit with matching waistcoat, paired perfectly with white socks, buckled shoes, and a cigarette held nonchalantly between orange painted nails. 

Of course, the waistcoat holds particularly significant meaning in queer circles, where menswear hasn’t just figured as a reclamation of power but a visible encoding of difference – and desire – as well. Here, the waistcoat’s lineage is long and fascinating. In 1828, the German Prince Puckler-Muskau visited the Ladies of Llangollen, otherwise known as Eleanor Butler and Sarah Ponsonby. The couple had caused a sensation by running away together from Ireland in their youth and eventually settling in Llangollen, North Wales. Or as Puckler-Muskau flippantly put it, “56 years ago, two young, pretty and fashionable ladies… took it into their heads to hate men, to love only each other, and to live from that hour in some remote hermitage.” Meeting them when Eleanor was 83 and Sarah 74, he described them as both being dressed in “a round man’s hat, a man’s cravat and waistcoat, but in the place of ‘inexpressibles,’ a short petticoat and boots.” 

Notable lesbian Anne Lister, whose explicit diaries would later help explode the myth that women who existed outside of heterosexual convention weren’t all that interested in sex, had also visited the ladies several years earlier in 1822 – finding solace in their very singular way of life. She too made use of a more androgynous mode of dress, combining aspects of men’s and womenswear. When her life was dramatized on-screen last year in Gentleman Jack, waistcoats and billowing sleeves figured heavily. The sleeve point is important. One of the obvious draws of a waistcoat is that it leaves collar and sleeves free – offering room to play with structure, silhouette, and layering (or, in more recent times, the thrilling chance to wear it with absolutely nothing beneath).  

Skip forwards a century to the 1920s and waistcoats became a common sight in European lesbian and bisexual circles, worn alongside both trousers and skirts. French author Colette, who herself imagined an updated existence for the Ladies of Llangollen in her novel The Pure and the Impure described her own cross-dressing in Paris in the 1920s as involving “sometimes a waistcoat, and always a silk pocket handkerchief.” Although Colette’s writing about sexuality was often ambivalent, she documents the sartorial mood of the times well – especially for those involved in the community that revolved around American writer Natalie Barney, whose Parisian literary salons brought together plenty of notable queer and artistic figures. Barney, who meticulously divided her love affairs with women into the categories of liaisons, demi-liaisons, and adventures, had a demi-liaison with Colette. One of her much longer term liaisons, spanning nearly fifty years, was with the painter Romaine Brooks. In 1923, Brooks completed a portrait of another painter named Gluck, a gender non-conforming lesbian often known to close friends as Peter. In Brooks’ beautiful grey-toned painting, Gluck’s striped waistcoat and silk tie are hugely striking. They look almost contemporary. 

These interconnected individuals make up just the briefest glimpse into the world of waistcoat-wearing. One largely focused among a small handful of affluent individuals. But it stretches in all sorts of other directions too, taking in vaudeville male impersonators including Ella Wesner and Lillyn Brown; Gladys Bentley’s tuxedos;, Marlene Dietrich’s dandyish get-ups; the inter- and post-war solidification of butch and femme identities; Stormé DeLarverie’s thin ties and boxy tailoring; k.d. lang being shaved by Cindy Crawford on the cover of Vanity Fair; Shane from The L Word; Janelle Monae in hot pink with her jacket slung over her shoulders like a cape; Christine and the Queens artfully buttoning up a shirt, waistcoat and blazer over a black leather harness in the video for 5 Dollars, and plenty more besides. 

It’s a sprawling, ever expanding list of images and references. Together they cumulatively point to an item that has been worn with careful intent: whether daring, polished, comfortable, disheveled, uniform, sexy, androgynous, or some combination of the above. Of course it has not always been a simple item to put on – historically defying not only convention, but also various restrictive laws surrounding gendered clothing. But it has also offered plenty to its wearers, from defiance and reclamation of tradition to the pragmatism of cleanly tailored lines to an undeniably camp glamour. It hasn’t always looked good (as with so many other garments, the noughties styling of waistcoats largely feels like a low point), but has often been full of great possibility: just as fitting whether one is eight and costumed as a pirate, 28 or so and immortalized in a portrait wearing a silk tie, or 84 and living out an existence purposefully and peacefully sought out in beautiful house in Wales with the woman they’ve built a life with. 

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नोरा फतेही ने पर्पल ड्रेस में शेयर की तस्वीरें, फैन्स बोले 'हाय गर्मी' March 16, 2020 at 02:06AM

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करीना कपूर की ये सिंपल सी टी-शर्ट ही आपका बजट बिगाड़ने के लिए काफी है March 15, 2020 at 08:55PM

करीना कपूर जब कभी भी स्पॉट होती हैं तो भले ही वह कैजुअल लुक में दिखें लेकिन उनका स्टाइल कुछ ऐसा होता है कि वह सभी को इंप्रेस छोड़ देता है। इस बार भी जब यह बेगम अपने पति सैफ अली खान और बेटे तैमूर अली खान के साथ स्पॉट हुई तो उनका लुक कुछ ऐसा रहा जो किसी आम लड़की को भी स्टाइलिश लुक दे दे। वैसे एक बात तय है कि इस लुक को कॉपी करने के लिए जरूर करीना के कपड़ों की भी कॉपी ही ढूंढनी पड़ जाएगी। दरअसल, करीना ने जो कपड़े पहने थे उनकी कीमत इतनी है कि एक आम का इसे खरीद पाना आसान नहीं है। अब बेबो की काली टी-शर्ट को ही ले लीजिए। उन्होंने अमेरीकी-ईरानी फैशन डिजाइनर Mike Amiri के ब्रैंड AMIRI की ब्लैक टी-शर्ट पहनी थी। इस राउंट नेक टी-शर्ट पर बैक पर ब्रैंड का नाम तो फ्रंट में स्लोगन 'A Life Beyond Your Wildest Dream' लिखा हुआ था। इस हाफ स्लीव्स टी-शर्ट के साथ करीना ने वाइट स्ट्रेट फिट जींस पहनी थी और ब्राउन ब्लॉक हील्स कैरी की थीं। करीना ने इस लुक को कैजुअल ही रखते हुए मेसी हाई बन बनाया था। वहीं धूप से आंखों को बचाने के लिए स्टाइलिश काला चश्मा लगाया था। हालांकि, बेबो ने अपने पाउट को जरूर हाईलाइट किया था, जिसके लिए उन्होंने ब्राइट रेड कलर की लिपस्टिक चुनी थी। कीमत अब बात करें इस सिंपल सी दिखने वाली टी-शर्ट की कॉस्ट की तो डॉलर्स में इसकी कीमत 423 है। इसे अगर भारतीय मुद्रा में कंवर्ट किया जाए तो यह प्राइस 31,284.66 रुपये होती है। यह टी-शर्ट ऑनलाइन शॉपिंग के लिए उपलब्ध है। अगर आपको भी करीना जैसी ही सेम टी-शर्ट चाहिए तो फिर 30 हजार रुपये से ज्यादा खर्च करने को तैयार भी रहिएगा।