Friday, May 7, 2021

Finally, It’s In Fashion To Be A Horse Girl

If you don’t know a horse girl, aren’t one yourself, or haven’t seen one on throwback TV shows like Wildfire, horse girls are, simply put, girls who love horses. Sometimes they ride them — but they don’t have to; you can be a horse girl if you’ve never even been in the presence of a horse. Horse girls watched Spirit on VHS on a regular basis and preferred Felicity — a fellow horse girl — to the other American Girl dolls. The O.C.’s Summer Roberts was a horse girl (hello, Princess Sparkle), Beyoncé is a horse girl, and Kacey Musgraves is definitely a Horse Girl.

But despite their representation at the A-level, until recently, true horse girls haven’t exactly enjoyed a vaunted social status. Their exceptionally long hair got pulled, and their detailed horse drawings folded up and passed around class. Urban Dictionary describes them as “girls who gallop on the track during gym class.” And frankly, some do: In Finland, hobbyhorse riding, according to The Wall Street Journal, is a growing sport that involves young girls riding fake horses, made of cloth or plastic horse heads attached to sticks. But it’s not just hobbyhorse girls who were subject to mockery. Even those whose horse-related interests ended with My Little Pony T-shirts and binder stickers were often forbidden from sitting at the cool-kid table.

In the last few years, however, horse girls have found themselves at the center of attention — and not because they can clear a fence with grace while galloping on all fours. Horse girls everywhere were vindicated when Musgraves performed “High Horse” horseback at the Houston Rodeo in 2019. At the same time, Western tropes were (once again) experiencing peak popularity, with Ganni’s heart-embossed cowboy boots and Canadian tuxedos spotted on every #GanniGirl from New York to Copenhagen, and Lil Nas X’s “Old Town Road (Remix)” — which saw the singer in an enviable selection of cowboy wares for the music video — reaching the tops of music charts. 

Today celebrities aren’t wearing lace bodysuits while horseback at a packed arena, or a custom hot pink cowboy hat at the Grammys. Instead, like most things this year, the horse girl look has mellowed out since the pandemic, becoming more outdoorsy — think cottagecore vibes — than showy. With nowhere to actually go but outside, everyday horse girls have become standard sightings on social media feeds and beyond.

It began with Gigi and Bella Hadid, who spent a majority of quarantine last year at their sprawling farm in Pennsylvania, where every day is an episode of The Saddle Club. It was there that Gigi shot her little sister for the August cover of Elle — a shoot that included photos of her nuzzling up with her horse while wearing Hermés leather chaps, cleaning it in a Saint Laurent blazer, and riding it in a Dior dress. Since that shoot, Bella has posed with her horse on Instagram on countless occasions, calling him her “fearless son” and braiding his mane like you would your best friend’s hair. 

GUCCI ARIA 26 mars 2021 Roma Cinecitta

On Instagram, entire lifestyle brands have embraced the sudden demand for equestrian style, like Recreational Habits, which launched in the pandemic and features a curated mood board titled @rhequestrianclub and preppy-athletic apparel. Runways, too, have become enamored with horse girls. A model on a horse, albeit in a wedding gown, closed Chanel’s spring ‘21 Haute Couture show, while Celine’s fall ‘21 film featured a lineup of Gen Z models horseback riding. The most blatantly equestrian display was at Gucci’s fall ‘21 show, when models carried whips and crops while wearing riding boots, helmets, and tailored velvet blazers. Some models wore harnesses — others carried them. The film showcasing the new collection concluded with every horse girl’s dream: two white Stallions. 

In turn, sartorial items that would once live only in the wardrobes of actual equestrians are becoming closet mainstays for all. Knee-high boots, like those featured at Gucci’s show, have surpassed both ankle-height and over-the-knee styles on our spring wishlists, while cowboy boots continue to reign supreme on runways. Stirrup leggings, a big trend of the last year, have single-handedly made leggings cool again, and shrunken, fitted polos are frequently spotted on Instagram and TikTok. 

Arguably the most horse girl item of all — chaps — is back, too, and not just on Hadid or Kim Kardashian. According to fashion writer Laura Reilly, chaps are the one fashion item she’s most excited to wear post-pandemic. “My friend and I are planning a chap party in their honor,” she tells Refinery29. Reilly originally bought her leather chaps on eBay for “a Halloween that never happened.” “All of my friends have a pair in the back of their closets somewhere — they just need an excuse to wear them.” But really, with horse girls taking over fashion, is an excuse even necessary?

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Kate Middleton Rewore Her Engagement Blouse More Than A Decade Later

A week after the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge celebrated their 10-year anniversary with a handful of family activities — during which Kate Middleton made a case for skinny jeans — she rewore a garment from the couple’s 2010 engagement shoot: a cream-colored, silk blouse from Whistles.

This time around, Middleton wore the blouse during a phone call with finalists from Hold Still, a community project she founded during the pandemic, in partnership with the National Portrait Gallery. The photos — which were taken last fall at Sandringham House, one of the Queen’s favorite country retreats in northern England — were released this week to coincide with Hold Still’s book launch. Honoring Her Royal Highness at the estate, Middleton paired the blouse with the Queen’s pearl-and-diamond earrings. 

This isn’t the first time that the Duchess has double-dipped in her wardrobe. In fact, Middleton’s garnered a reputation for recycling past outfits. Just last week, while celebrating her anniversary at Manor Farm in Northern England, Middleton chose a pair of brown, knee-high boots from Penelope Chilvers that have been a staple in her wardrobe since 2004. In September, Middleton rewore a dress and a mask from previous sightings while touring small businesses suffering due to the pandemic. The dress, a floral number from Beulah London, was first showcased during a Zoom call with Heads Together, an organization led by the Royal Foundation that’s working to change the conversation around mental health in the U.K., the previous May. Meanwhile, her floral face mask, from Amaia, accompanied her everywhere throughout the country’s lockdown. 

With Middleton bringing back her engagement blouse, maybe her Alexander McQueen wedding gown could be next on her tour of past sartorial haunts? We’ll try our best not to get our hopes up.

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Why Stylists Believe Virtual Red Carpets Changed Things For The Better

When faced with a virtual award season, which began with the 2020 Emmys in September and concluded with the Critics’ Choice Awards in March, fashion stylists pivoted, adjusting their methods for the new pandemic-friendly format, and broadcasting their hard work on social media. As a result of their strategic modifications, this award season’s red carpet was as glamorous as it was memorable. The 2021 Oscars, the first major award show to take place in person in a year, marked the return to IRL red carpets. But the stylists that made this season a success believe the move to virtual changed red carpets for the better.

Micah McDonald and Wayman Bannerman, the styling partnership behind Regina King’s red carpet looks this season, say that they actually preferred digital red carpets. The duo — who just landed third on Hollywood Reporter’s 2021 Most Powerful Stylists list, after Zendaya’s Image Architect Law Roach and Beyoncé’s stylist Zerina Akers — used the switch to virtual red carpets to make statement after statement.

For example, for the Emmys, they dressed the Watchmen actress in a blue Schiaparelli Haute Couture gown. To showcase the sculptural look, they teamed up with photographer James Anthony to create a virtual reality backdrop for her pre-show photoshoot. The result was better than any award season step-and repeat — a video showing King dancing against a moving drawing of two Black women that was meant to evoke feelings of sisterhood. “Going digital allowed us to tell a story,” McDonald says. Later in the night, King honored Breonna Taylor when she changed into a T-shirt that read, “Say Her Name.”

In the absence of red carpets, stylists were able to craft their own photo and video shoots to showcase the fashion, rather than rely on photographers assigned to shoot the events. According to McDonald, that allowed them to work with photographers and other creatives in a way that wouldn’t have been possible pre-pandemic: “We finally could collaborate with people of color that we love and admire like the photographers [and other creatives] that were all Black and of African descent.” The move to Instagram and other digital platforms also allowed McDonald and Bannerman to offer fellowship opportunities to young talent this year.

Stylist Jason Bolden, whose work with actress Cynthia Erivo this season landed her on every best-dressed list of the year, agrees that the digital format had a lot of advantages. “It allowed us to bring back that really cool part about red carpet interviews that people used to love,” he says. Whereas years ago interviewers used to ask celebrities in detail why they chose their looks, now, few have enough airtime to go beyond the standard, “Who are you wearing?” — and sometimes, they don’t even ask that. By showcasing looks on Instagram, Bolden could share every detail of a particular ensemble, from a specific jewelry moment to a distinct beauty reference, all in the form of a caption. 

“Now, I get away with things that might not be [otherwise] photographed,” says Bolden. When, at the 2020 SAG Awards, he styled a Roberto Coin necklace backward on Erivo, so as to have it lay on her back, the moment was mostly overlooked, with every camera aimed at the front of her orange-and-pink Schiaparelli dress. “Now, with something like that, I can actually show you 360 degrees of a look and give you the full moment that you would have otherwise missed,” he says. Case in point: The stylist put Erivo in sky-high platform heels for the 2021 Golden Globes. “[The digital format] has really allowed us to be more creative with what we do for the red carpet,” Bannerman adds.

The virtual aspect also pushed Bannerman and McDonald to be more environmentally conscious when planning a look for an event. “We’re being more strategic about what we call in,” Bannerman says. “We’re no longer pulling items that we don’t necessarily need. The goal was to avoid being excessive in anything that we did,” he says.

Of course, the strangest award season on record wasn’t without its hiccups. “It was frustrating [at times,]” says Bolden. “In many cases, we were having to try and get everything done in one [fell] swoop: picking the dress, altering it, making a decision on jewelry, etc.” Before the pandemic, there could be multiple fittings and dress changes involved in a single show’s look. This season, the entire process was tightened to minimize social interaction. “Not being able to truly see people and actually fit them in person was challenging,” he adds. He also admits to having missed the lavish nature of the red carpets, as did his clients: “They miss the fantasy, the glamour, the layering on loads of diamonds — I think they miss all of that,” Bolden says. “Award shows are their time to shine.”

That said, going back to the old way of doing things isn’t an interest of Bolden’s, or Bannerman and McDonald’s for that matter. “What we plan to do [in the future] is a healthy mix of both,” says McDonald. In this hybrid version, stylists would tell the story of their client’s look on social media — hosting their own photoshoots and capturing every possible angle — before sending them off to the IRL red carpet. “What that does is allow us to first, display our narrative, while still celebrating the tried-and-true narrative of the red carpet.” According to Bolden, it also allows the public to get to know the talent — people like hairdressers, makeup artists, and stylists, who previously existed behind the scenes. After all, they are the ones who made this year’s red carpet so unforgettable. 

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