Wednesday, September 22, 2021

R29’s Shopping Team Tries On Everlane’s ’90s Cheeky Jean

Our love for the classic look of vintage jeans is often thwarted by how difficult it can be to actually find a good pair. From dealing with decades-old sizing to extreme wear-and-tear or potentially steep price tags, the whole retro-denim hunt is an ordeal — one that’s even further complicated when you’re attempting to conduct it virtually. So when we caught wind of a certain Everlane pair with best-selling vintage appeal, we knew it warranted a more in-depth investigation. The ’90s Cheeky Jean and The Curvy ’90s Cheeky Jean (cut for a more hourglass shape) are straight-leg pants (fitted through the waist, hip, and thigh, but relaxed from the knee down) ethically made from Japanese non-stretch denim with a mid-to-high rise, a button fly, a fit that’s supposed to give the booty a boost, and a palatable price tag of $88. While the regular ’90s Cheeky is offered in seven denim washes (aka every shade of blue imaginable), the Curvy ’90s Cheeky comes in black and two blues. For both styles, there are options for a “Regular” inseam of 28.5″ or an “Ankle” inseam of 26.6″.

The jeans boast reviews numbering in the thousands with an average rating of 4.4-out-of-5-stars and a general customer consensus that they are the “Perfect Everyday Jean,” equal parts comfortable and stylish. To answer the question of how these internet-favorite throwback jeans actually stack up IRL, several members of the R29 Shopping team were graciously gifted a free pair from Everlane to try on and suss out. Keep scrolling for a closer look at the real-life fit and feel of The ’90s Cheeky Jean.

Everlane The ’90s Cheeky Jean, $88

Available in white, black, and varying shades of blue, these jeans come in sizes 23 through 33 and are offered in Ankle or Regular lengths.

Everlane The Curvy ’90s Cheeky Jean, $88

Designed for folks with hourglass shapes, these Curvy jeans are made to accommodate and accentuate the hips (which can often be difficult to find in vintage denim). The 23-to-33 sizing is similar to the style above — but the washes are limited to three colors in Curvy.

The Curvy ’90s Cheeky Jean in Medium Blue, Regular Length

Tester: Mercedes Viera, Associate Deals Writer

What I Look For In Jeans: “The first things on my list when looking for jeans is comfort and fit. I have to be able to breathe and walk around in them without feeling like I’m dying. Obviously, I also like having variety in my jeans (aka different washes and cuts).”

First Impressions: “My first thought was how soft the denim was. I was worried that the fabric would be too thick for the hot day I decided to wear it out for the first time, but it was ended up being absolutely perfect — not too thick but not thin either, just good quality. I was also worried about the button fly because those styles of jeans usually don’t fit me very well. I was pleasantly surprised to find that not only did it fit but it also felt comfortable. Well, almost. I can sit comfortably but they are a tiny bit restrictive — but, as with most denim, I’m assuming the more I wear them the better they’ll form to my body.”

The Price: “My price range for denim is between $50-$70 so this $88 price point is a little more than what I usually spend, but the quality is more than worth it.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “I didn’t notice anything personally — I think that side was a bit loose on me just because of my body type.”

How I’d Style These Jeans: “I’d style them with a turtleneck, sneakers, and a coat. Or, with a loose-fitting sweater tucked in along with boots and a coat.”

The ’90s Cheeky Jean in Vintage Sunbleached Blue, Ankle Length

Tester: Karina Hoshikawa, Beauty & Wellness Market Writer

What I Look For In Jeans: “Since I’m petite, I always look for a cropped or ankle length. Anything standard will likely be too long of an inseam for me. I pretty much exclusively shop for high-rise styles since I find them more flattering. I’m not terribly picky when it comes to stretch, but I obviously want them to be comfortable! I also want my jeans to last me a long time, so I don’t buy anything that feels too thin and jegging-like.”

First Impressions: “My first impression is that the fit was not bad, definitely true to size! I tend to struggle with finding jeans that don’t bunch up at the ankles since I’m 5’2. The denim feels moderately rigid, but not too much so that I can’t sit down comfortably. Plus, I’m sure they’ll soften up a bit over time. I got the Ankle length and, TBH, they were still longer than I expected! These ended up hitting me right at my feet; ideally, I’d love them just a hair shorter but I’m not mad about it. I love the high rise, too, and the pale blue wash was perfect.”

The Price: “Although I’ve splurged on some designer jeans from Rag & Bone and Frame that I am fully obsessed with, my general denim sweet spot is around $100. I own several pairs of Madewell jeans that I love and a few from Everlane, as well, actually! For the quality and transparency behind the manufacturing, I think $88 is a pretty fair price for people like me who are used to buying more premium (i.e. not fast-fashion) denim.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “Maybe it’s just me, but I don’t feel like these did a ton for the tush. It didn’t not make my butt look cute but, then again, there was also some looser fabric around the thigh area that probably camouflaged my booty a bit. I cared more that the fit was snug in the waist area so you could still see some cake.”

How I’d Style These Jeans: “My style is pretty basic, so pairing these with a plain white tee OR graphic tee (I have faves from In-N-Out and Tabasco) layered under a leather jacket would be perfect for fall!”

The ’90s Cheeky Jean in Bone, Regular Length

Tester: Elizabeth Buxton, Deputy Director

What I Look For In Jeans: “The most important quality in a pair of denim for me is the fit — even if the things are rough and restrictive or stretchy and flimsy, I’d at least like them to provide a good-looking silhouette. I want a pair of jeans that doesn’t bunch up around my crotch or inner-thigh areas and instead creates long lean lines with some bonus high-rise hip-hugging appeal (is this too much to ask?!). I also care about length: anything two short and I look like I’m wearing a pair of capris; anything too long and it’s an early 2000s nightmare.”

First Impressions: “I’m not sure if it differs depending upon the wash, but the Bone colorway I opted for felt thinner and softer to the touch than I anticipated it would. Sometimes denim (I’m thinking of a few pairs of Levis I own) can feel dense and restricting before they’re sufficiently broken in. This pair was much more malleable and breathable on my lower half once I shimmied them on; I was able to crouch down with reasonable ease and sitting didn’t prove to be a noticeable problem either. I was originally eyeing the cropped length but had to opt for the regular due to availability in my size (for reference: I’m a 26) and was pleasantly surprised to find it actually hit my ankles appropriately (I clock in at just 5’5′ and non-cropped pants can often be too long for my liking). As a hot-and-heavy fan of tapered/bootcut denim, I found the fit was as expected in that department. I will note that the size 26 was a bit looser on me than my usual pairs so, if you like a tighter fit, I’d recommend sizing down. With that said, I actually didn’t mind the looser fit here — it gave it a decidedly more vintage vibe.”

The Price: “I’m willing to spend a good chunk of change on a really nice pair of denim because it’s a wardrobe investment that really does last (I own pairs that are 7+ years old!). My usual range is somewhere in between the $100-$250 price point per pair, so $88 is definitely more of a bargain in my book.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “Full disclosure: I tried hard to snap a pic that made my front look more elongated in this style (it’s all about the angles, people) — but, since I don’t have the longest legs, these jeans didn’t really do much for me in that department. (Side note: I think they’d be great on someone leggier than I). However, as far as butts go, The ’90s Cheeky Jean’s real magic was all in their titular cheekiness. The high-rise fit coupled with strategic tailoring I’d describe as tapered around the waist/legs and looser in the butt/crotch worked wonders to provide me with a decidedly ‘90s-style booty pop. (For some reason I got Shania Twain vibes — but maybe I owe that to my snake-effect boots). I don’t know about a lift factor but I definitely can confirm that the derriere was this pair’s main event.” 

How I’d Style These Jeans: “Since these are a little looser on me than my usual go-to denim, I see myself staying away from chunkier sweaters/looser tops and opting instead for tighter tees/turtlenecks/sleeveless knits (like the one pictured above). In terms of footwear, I tried on a few pairs and found the bootcut best complimented (shocker) boots. I can also see myself easily throwing these on with a pair of clogs and thick-wool socks, too. For spring and summer, I really prefer a more cropped length and thus will be relegating these ’90s babies to a fall-and-winter rotation.”

The ’90s Cheeky Jean in Washed Black, Ankle Length

Tester: Jinnie Lee, Contributing Fashion Market Writer

What I Look For In Jeans: “I wear vintage Levi’s 90% of the time — 501s, 505s, 512s, 521s, 550s, and 551s. When it comes to leg shape, I generally like to wear straight, slightly flared, or slightly tapered. I also have a pair of super flared jeans and super wide-leg jeans. I never do skinny. I never do stretch, either.”

First Impressions: “With a name like The ’90s Cheeky Jean, I was hopeful these would fit similarly to my beloved vintage Levi’s. They don’t really (this Everlane denim is softer and looser compared to stiff ol’ Levi’s), but I actually think these are a solid alternative for regular jean-wearers who seek the ease of buying vintage-inspired jeans with modern-day sizing in mind. I will also say that I very much appreciate the Ankle length option — I’m 5’3” and it’s a revelation whenever I find a pair of jeans that don’t require further altering.”

The Price: “Any well-designed, ethically-made denim under $100 sounds like a good deal to me.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “I thought these jeans were going to give me one of those up-the-crack wedgies, but honestly this pair just comfortably covered my cheeks. To that end, size down if you’re looking for that tighter-butt look!”

How I’d Style These Jeans: “Love it with a t-shirt, obvi. A big, creamy cable-knit sweater might be cute with Washed Black. I don’t really wear form-fit tops, but I think these jeans would look great with one of those body-hugging Y2K ribbed tanks that everyone’s wearing right now.”

The ’90s Cheeky Jean in Vintage Mid Blue, Regular Length

Tester: Alexandra Polk, Lifestyle Writer

What I Look For In Jeans: “When I buy jeans I look for at least a 28.5” inseam so they make it to my ankle (I’m 5’8” and have lanky long legs), a looser relaxed fit, dark wash, and thick hearty denim.”

First Impressions: “My first thoughts were, ‘Thank god I read the size chart’ because I’ve never owned Everlane pants before. As I was looking at the size chart I noticed the waist measurements seemed bigger than the size they aligned with. I’m usually a 27 but this time I got a 25 — so definitely size down. I could not achieve a squat in them when I first put them on. They are very stiff, which I actually love (especially over flimsy denim). Once I moved around in them, after an hour I could squat slowly. They are flattering on the waist and the tapered fit makes them easy to pair with anything. These pants are definitely a good fall wardrobe staple and could be styled all year round.”

The Price: “Unfortunately, the fashion industry caters to skinny, barely curvaceous bodies like mine, so it’s very easy to find jeans that I like and that make me feel comfortable for much less. Most of my denim comes from thrift stores, or I go for $50 pair on average. But I think that $88 is the perfect price for jeans if you’re back-to-school shopping and want one nice reliable pair or if you like to shop more sustainable, high-quality denim.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “I have many talents, but that does not include having a full butt. I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary with these jeans, but upon further inspection, I can tell they hit the waist at a flattering point which would help accentuate someone’s curves. My curves just happen to be a little shy.”

How I’d Style These Jeans: “I like how I styled them with this mid-length ribbed polo and a pair of platform sandals. When it gets colder out I’ll swap the sandal to a low-top white sneaker and pop on one of my cropped jackets from UNIF or Topshop. If the jeans were longer on me I would definitely throw on a heeled bootie and it would look fab. I also love how you don’t need a belt with these jeans — the waistline does all the cinching for you.”

The ’90s Cheeky Jean in Vintage Mid Blue, Ankle Length

Tester: Kate Spencer, Affiliate Strategist

What I Look For In Jeans: “DEFINITELY fit. I’m pretty petite, so finding a pair of jeans I don’t have to alter is like finding a needle in a haystack. I also prefer denim that doesn’t have much stretch and am a bit picky about the wash. I usually go for lighter, more vintage-looking shades.”

First Impressions: “I think the quality of this denim is great. This is a wash I wouldn’t normally go for, so it was nice to try something new. Since I’m familiar with Everlane sizing, I was prepared for this pair to fit a bit big on me…and indeed they do. Luckily, it doesn’t bother me too much since I like a looser straight fit, but they do ride lower and are not high-rise as pictured on the site.”

The Price: “I think $88 is a pretty good price point for a nice high-quality pair of jeans. I don’t personally buy new jeans very often, but when I do, I go for quality over quantity and usually score sale sections of my favorite high-end brands to find a pair that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. The last time I bought a new pair of jeans was probably three years ago and I probably spent $150-$200.”

The “Cheeky” Factor: “Realistically, I don’t have much booty to work with so these jeans didn’t do much for me…I don’t think that’s the jeans’ fault though.”

How I’d Style These Jeans: “I think these are super classic so there are really endless possibilities with styling. Likely I’d wear them with loafers, a basic tank, and some sort of blazer or jacket situation over top.”

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Sewing TikTok Is Social Media’s Own Project Runway

The public’s interest in fashion’s behind-the-scenes process has long been a pillar of reality entertainment. It’s what shows like Project Runway and Making The Cut owe their success to. Now, as fashion communities grow on TikTok, people are using the app to showcase their own kind of reality show via short videos, diving into sewing challenges worthy of a Tim Gunn compliment. 

These videos are streaming via the hashtag #SewingTikTok, which has garnered over 725 million views thanks to creators like thrift-flip expert Andriaa Hall and designers John Azzi and Susy Guerreros. More recently, following the boom of archive fashion on the app, creators are DIY-ing their versions of vintage luxury pieces and even couture gowns with small budgets (typical comments express both awe and shock by the fact that a Chanel lookalike could be made for less than $100.) 

This community first saw viral success last year, when a JW Anderson crochet cardigan started trending on TikTok after a paparazzi image of Harry Styles made the rounds. Soon afterward, multiple creators began sharing their attempts at making their own versions with the hashtag #HarryStylesCardigan, which now has over 80 million views. The phenomenon reached the designer Jonathan Anderson himself, who not only showed support for the dupes, but released the cardigan’s official pattern for creators to replicate it. The brand even filmed a video tutorial with the help of senior knitwear designer Janni Vepsäläinen. According to Vepsäläinen, the cardigan reached astronomic success because anyone who learns how to make its basic stitches can recreate it at home.  

Creator and model Maddie White,  a self-taught sewer, is one of #SewingTikTok’s main stars. She first joined the app in February 2021 after her modeling gigs slowed down during the pandemic, and has since gained nearly 400,000 followers. Her formula is simple: She finds outfits and aesthetics she wants to emulate with her own designs, and shows the process behind remaking them on a tight budget and deadline. 

At 6.3 million views, her most-watched sewing video yet features her take on a 1992 Chanel haute couture black dress with gold chains, which Lily Rose-Depp wore to the 2019 Met Gala. White made her own mini version in 14 hours for $50 (the most expensive part of the garment were gold chains from Michael’s that cost $30). Some of her other notable takes on iconic looks include a glittery butterfly Versace dress worn by Cher and Dua Lipa, a black Cult Gaia flower cut-out top worn by Ariana Grande, and a mini version of the Jean Paul Gaultier white couture gown worn by Bella Hadid at this year’s Cannes Film Festival. 

@madeleinecwhite

This thing weighs more than my dog. BRB going to Ralph’s in it. #fyp #90sversace #lilyrosedepp #metgaladress #sewingtiktok #fashiontok #sewingtok #DIY

♬ original sound – .

While White feels like she’s a rookie, she’s mastering patterns and techniques that challenge even experienced designers. To her audience, she’s a pro. Since she first went viral, White has received requests on a daily basis from people interested in getting a custom-made piece. But White refuses to take orders: “I can do it for myself, but not for other people.”

Other creators on #SewingTikTok are betting the platform will boost their own businesses. Recently, designer Simone Sullivan went viral on the app after she recreated a piece she couldn’t afford: an Alexander McQueen cropped corset top with ruffled sleeves that came with a hefty price tag of almost $2,000. She documented her process of creating a dupe — from patternmaking to final zip-up — on TikTok. “I quickly noticed people were really into this,” she said of her behind-the-scenes footage. While Sullivan, 27, had been sharing her design and sewing process on the app for months, this video was her first to go viral, generating over 700,000 views in less than a month. 

The designer also creates videos that show how she recreates luxury pieces. Earlier this month, when she saw stylist Amanda Murray wearing a JW Anderson pom-pom camisole dress, Sullivan couldn’t stop thinking about it. But when she found out the dress was already sold out, Sullivan decided to make a version of it herself. First, she found a similar fabric and made the pattern based on a dress she already owned. She later decided to make it with just one shoulder strap and figured that, if she was going to go through the trouble of making herself this dress, she’d want it to be reversible. For the pom poms, she bought a tool to make them at home. The result? A Sullivan-approved version of the JW Anderson dress that she made to fit not only her budget, but her needs as a working designer who treasures the versatility of two dresses in one garment. 

@simone.sullivan

Another DESIGNER DUPE DIY! (No I will not be making this for anyone) #diy #designer #blackdesigner #doubleknit #fashion #hankerchief #seamstress

♬ original sound – simone.sullivan

Sullivan doesn’t just create videos of luxury dupes. She also walks her audience through the process of developing her own designs, which hold an aesthetic Sullivan describes as “Miami meets New York,” from fabric shopping and sketching to sewing and final stitches. Thanks to the success of her luxury dupe videos, Sullivan says some clients have knocked on her virtual door to get custom-made pieces from her brand.  

With her content, Sullivan hopes that people are inspired to take to sewing themselves. “In this pandemic, when people don’t have jobs, I think it’s great that people can make their own [clothes],” she said. While sewing has long been a resource for people to fulfill their clothing needs, globalization and fast fashion have put it out of use. These days, sewing is more of a novelty than a skill, though #SewingTikTok is trying to change that. Even Sullivan, who depends on her work as a designer to pay the bills, welcomes more sewers to copy her designs. It’s not just about affordability, but quality: “I’d rather them make it for themselves than [buy one] at Zara,” she says. 

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The Enduring Allure of Anne Boleyn’s Necklace

LONDON, ENGLAND – AUGUST 17: Bella Hadid seen on a night out with friends leaving Chiltern Firehouse on August 17, 2021 in London, England. (Photo by Ricky Vigil M/GC Images)

Last month, supermodel Bella Hadid wore an initial necklace with an oversized “B” charm from which three teardrop pearls dangled, which compelled a fleet of people to jump onto Google to try and figure out where the original came from. The answer? Hadid’s necklace was a replica of Anne Boleyn’s infamous lavaliere, immortalized in contemporary portraits of her from the late 16th century, which generated as much buzz in King Henry VIII’s court as it did on the internet 450 years later. 

We’re witnessing the birth of Tudorcore, a trend that melds the it-pieces of 16th century England with today’s styles. After Hadid wore the necklace, demand for similar jewelry pieces jumped by 56%, according to global search platform Lyst. Meanwhile, over the past few months, the site has seen an increased interest in “Tudor” dresses. Heavily influenced by key members of the English royal court, Tudor style is distinguished for its square neckline and structured bodices, as well as the Spanish farthingale, a conical undergarment that gave volume to skirts. 

The current trend is largely thanks to the BBC’s popular series The Boleyns: A Scandalous Family, which tells the story of the clan’s social rise from rich commoners to the higher echelons of British royalty, with their eldest daughter Anne becoming the detonator of political change in the country. The second wife of Henry VIII, king of England between 1509 and 1547, Anne Boleyn became queen in 1533. The same year, she gave birth to one of England’s most powerful monarchs, Elizabeth I. Later, in 1536, she was framed for treason, adultery, and incest before being beheaded. While most of Henry VIII’s wives after Boleyn suffered the same fate, her story is by far the most popular. For a time, Boleyn even adopted the motto, “Let them grumble, that is how it is going to be,” which Claire Ridgway, founder of The Anne Boleyn Files, says is the original “haters gonna hate.” 

“I think the drama of her story grabs us,” Ridgway says. “She was a modern woman.” 

Late 16th century (?). Oil on panel, 22 1/4 x 17 3/8 inches. Located in the National Portrait Gallery, London, England, UK. (Photo by VCG Wilson/Corbis via Getty Images)

So much so that her fashion choices seem more 2021 than 1531. Today, initial necklaces are having a moment. Luxury designers like Balenciaga and Chloé have released their iterations of initial necklaces, which vary from oversized chain-link silhouettes to dainty gold charm pieces. Nameplate necklaces — which literally have a person’s name on them — have also been a longtime modern tradition. In general, monogrammed pieces are most often associated with the rich and famous, and back in the 16th century, the story was the same. According to Ridgway, initials were seen on royal accessories back then, with Boleyn also sporting an “H-A” necklace in official portraits in honor of her marriage to Henry VIII, a trend reserved for those with economic means to commission such pieces. Historians have long attempted to read meaning into Boleyn’s initial necklaces, mainly because the portraits available were created half a century after her beheading. And as Boleyn’s story keeps getting depicted in movies and shows like The Other Boleyn Girl and The Tudors, the attention to Boleyn’s jewelry just continues to grow. After all, there is a twisted poetry in Boleyn’s most famous fashion statement being an accessory she wore around the very neck that was famously severed. 

Adriana, 21, who preferred to keep her last name private, first learned about the necklace from Hadid’s outing, and shared her first reaction on Twitter: “God this is so sexy. Definitely worth getting my head lopped off.” For her, the appeal comes from the necklace’s design. “I am quite surprised to know that it was modeled after Anne Boleyn’s necklace because of the modern, almost timeless design,” she says. “I think that the necklace can stand up by itself.” 

According to Ridgway, Anne Boleyn’s sex appeal has been mythologized for centuries because people are genuinely puzzled by Henry VIII’s seemingly risky obsession with Boleyn. To marry her, he renounced his Catholic faith, the entire foundation upon which English royalty claimed power, to get an annulment from his first wife, Catherine of Aragon. His relationship with Anne Boleyn began a religious crisis in England, and marked the beginning of the Anglican Church. For Ireland-based Roisin Byrne, who learned about Anne Boleyn from the musical Six, her story is part of a larger cultural phenomenon that is reevaluating the way women were vilified in history. 

“Anne Boleyn feels like the blueprint for victimized women who were characterized as promiscuous or manipulative,” she says, adding that the way Anne Boleyn was sexualized and demonized was the precursor to how society exploited contemporary women like Britney Spears.  

Yet, as much as we know about Anne Boleyn’s life, the history of the “B” necklace is a little murky. According to Ridgway, it’s unclear where the necklace first originated or whether it was passed down to Elizabeth I once Boleyn died. Some say the necklace is now part of the Imperial State Crown, currently worn by Queen Elizabeth II, but Ridgway says that’s unfounded.  

But the mystery — as well as the gruesome story of its wearer — is part of the necklace’s appeal. Just look on Etsy, Amazon, or Depop and you’ll find plenty of versions from sellers who are either offering exact replicas or creating personalized iterations of the famous necklace. Even the official shop of the Tower of London, where Henry VIII held his court, sells replicas of the necklace, retailing for $75. 

One of these Anne Boleyn Etsy sellers is Maydi Díaz. Her approach is to modernize the former queen’s necklace with interchangeable initials so people can customize it to their own names. Díaz says she’s always been intrigued by historical fashion, specifically Tudor-style clothing and jewelry, but Boleyn’s necklace stands out because of the story: “I think we can identify with Anne’s uninhibited way of living, with her tendencies of doing whatever it takes in the hope of happiness.”

New York-based Boleyn cosplayer Julia, who preferred to keep her last name private, has been dressing up as Boleyn since 2020. After watching the musical Six, she became obsessed with Boleyn’s story and fashion, flocking to Amazon, Etsy, and eBay for Tudor-style dresses, headpieces, and jewelry that resemble the portraits we now know of the former queen. Her Instagram account showcases just how much Julia identifies with Boleyn’s story, staging photoshoots with the costumes she procures online in order to bring a bit of Boleyn back to life, nearly 500 years after her death.

Of course, in most of her pictures, she wears a replica of Boleyn’s pearl necklace. “Her bravery and strength in a male-dominated time inspires me so much,” she says. 

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