Thursday, September 17, 2020

Bella Hadid, Erykah Badu & Rosalía Hosted Burberry’s Runway Show

If you can’t bring celebrities to the front row, why not bring the show to them instead? As a very unconventional London Fashion Week kicks off today, Burberry proves there are still headlines to be made in a socially distanced world by tapping an all-star cast of Erykah Badu, Rosalía, Steve Lacy, and Bella Hadid (the supermodel having just modeled the brand’s latest bag campaign) to virtually host its spring ’21 show ‘In Bloom’.

Going live from gaming favorite live stream platform Twitch a half an hour before the collection debut, the luxury giant launched the spring ’21 season with a pre-show chat between the four guest hosts, who discussed everything from connecting with nature in lockdown and creating art in moments of stillness to their alter ego names (Bella’s is Belinda, FYI) and meeting Burberry’s creative director Riccardo Tisci for the first time.

As the chat – watched by a cool 35k people — came to an end, the cameras switched to multiple perspectives of models changing into the spring ’21 collection in a hall-of-mirrors-style changing room. Sounds of chirping birds and trees rustling in the wind set the scene. “As humans, we have always had a deep affinity to nature,” read the brand’s notes. “Celebrating the connection between the earth and the sea, between the environment and humanity.” The show commenced, depicting models walking through an overgrown forest, an homage to nature, and Britain’s greenery. Perhaps, like the rest of us, the pandemic has given Tisci pause for thought and a chance to reconnect with nature (in lieu of a larger-than-life production, the brand planted 10k trees in the British countryside this season).

Clashing guitar music soundtracked models stomping between trees, which led in turn to “a radical meeting of fashion and art”, a live performance choreographed by contemporary artist Anne Imhof. “Examining tensions at the intersections of togetherness and tradition; the natural and the man-made; the real and the unreal,” models and dancers in black and white flowed through an open space in the forest, thrashing about to the music’s stuttering staccato beats.

The collection itself? Hallmarks of Burberry’s aesthetic — slick tailoring, timeless trench coats, and heritage fabrics — blended seamlessly with Tisci’s contemporary DNA: bold monochrome, futuristic leather, and nods to streetwear via hoodies and joggers. There was something jarring about the luxury looks we’re accustomed to seeing on extravagant runways being paraded along the forest floor as if the models were returning from a debauched party the night before. Perhaps that’s the tension Tisci was alluding to: what place do our man-made creations have in the natural world post-pandemic? What is the place of luxury fashion in such uncertain times?

While many brands have had to navigate the new normal and accommodate ever-changing government guidelines — brands from Victoria Beckham to Simone Rocha had to cancel plans for small, salon-style presentations at the last minute and instead go virtual — Burberry is no stranger to breaking the barriers of catwalk convention. In 2010, the heritage label became the first luxury brand to live stream a runway show to a global audience. As this virtual show proved, Burberry is always moving with the times, however uncertain they may be.

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LONDON, ENGLAND – DECEMBER 02: Rihanna attends The Fashion Awards 2019 at the Royal Albert Hall on December 02, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Karwai Tang/WireImage)

Following the success of Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty show on Amazon last September, Prime Video will be airing a second fashion show to celebrate the fashion brand’s Fall 2020 collection next month. The Savage X Fenty Show Vol. 2, on which Rihanna will serve as executive producer and creative director, will arrive on Amazon on October 2, and include performances from Rosalia, Travis Scott, Bad Bunny, Ella Mai, Miguel, Mustard, and Roddy Ricch. 

According to a press release, the event will see Savage X Fenty veterans Bella Hadid, Big Sean, Cara Delevingne, Christian Combs, Normani, and Paloma Elsesser returning to wear the latest Savage X Fenty styles. Lizzo, Demi Moore, Erika Jayne, Gigi Goode, Irina Shayk, Laura Harrier, Paris Hilton, Rico Nasty, Shea Couleé, Willow Smith, Chika, Miss 5th Avenue, Jaida Essence Hall, and “many more” will also be joining. 

The release describes the new collection, which will be available to shop on Amazon Fashion’s store and at Savage X Fenty, as “high-voltage” and “packed with unexpected pairings and surprising new styles that push the boundaries of individuality.”

The Savage X Fenty Show Vol. 2 announcement also came alongside a trailer, showing Rihanna walking into what looks like the backstage area of the show. The names of performers and special attendees then start appearing on the screen. Watch it, below, ahead of the October 2 release.

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Tanya Taylor Is Using Her NYFW Slot To Encourage People To Register To Vote

As most designers are concluding showing their new collections at New York Fashion Week, Tanya Taylor used her Thursday time slot on the CFDA calendar to air a video of her own — one that has nothing to do with fashion. Titled “Things That Take Longer Than Registering to Vote,” the short film shows, as the name suggests, just how quick it is to register to vote. In it, celebrities from Hillary Clinton and Rosario Dawson to Mindy Kaling, Brother Vellies’ Aurora James, Iskra Lawrence, and more perform everyday activities that take longer than two minutes (the time it takes to register to vote with the Action Button on Tanya Taylor’s website).

“It’s important to me to use the platform I have to support social issues that I believe in. We were vocal in the 2016 election supporting Hillary Clinton, and we knew we wanted to do something around the election again this year as it is critical for everyone to know how to register and vote and feel that their voice matters,” Taylor told Refinery29 ahead of the video release. Created as part of Tanya Taylor’s involvement in Fashion Our Future 2020, a multi-brand initiative founded to use fashion to mobile the youth vote and led by Studio 189 cofounder Abrima Erwiah, the video was created with the goal of encouraging communities to register to vote ahead of the general election. “In talking with Abrima, the message about getting youth excited about voting really resonated with me, because I grew up in Canada and I have seen how youth in a less divided government see their civic voice effectively contributing to change and unity.” 

Inspired by the idea that it takes longer to watch a fashion show than to register to vote, the video, produced by Evan Jonigkeit, starts with an introduction from Taylor. It then zooms to self-shot snippets of celebrities doing activities of their choosing: Kaling waters her plants while Clinton plays with her dog and Dawson gets her makeup removed; James makes coffee, and Lawrence changes her five-month-old son’s diaper. “The idea is that if you have time to cook, water your plants, try a new hobby — then you have the time to register to vote,” Taylor says. Longer individual videos will be posted to Tanya Taylor’s Instagram throughout the week. Other participants include Stephanie Beatriz, Stacy London, Michelle Buteau, Michelle Kwan, Sydnee Washington, Zosia Mamet, and Sasheer Zamata. 

In addition to being able to use her platform for an important conversation, not showing clothes this season allowed Tanya Taylor to reset professionally. “COVID has had a challenging impact on our business, but the silver lining is that for the first time in eight years we were able to hit pause and reevaluate our brand. We have had a lot of discussions about where we want the business to go, what we want the brand to stand for and how we get there,” she says. “Creating collections is what makes me happy, it’s my passion so I could never not create, but this season it was important that we blend purpose with passion.” The brand’s Spring 2021 collection will now be revealed in January, a few weeks ahead of the collection’s retail launch, as a way to combat the out-of-season calendar that has long made little sense to the consumer.

“As we begin this new chapter of our business, we feel confident challenging the old ways of doing things by focusing on our customer and putting them at the center of our strategy. NYFW in its traditional format is confusing to our customer — we show them products that they won’t be able to buy for six months, if at all, introduced at events that they are not usually invited to,” she says. “With everything going on in the world, we didn’t think our customer wanted to see a SS21 collection right now, and creating a fashion show wasn’t where the team wanted to spend our time and effort right now either. There are a lot of eyes on us during NYFW, so it felt like a great opportunity to use our time in the spotlight to encourage positive change and push our community to register to vote.”

In partnership with Fashion Our Future 2020, Taylor did create two exclusive products, a graphic tote bag and a lunchbox that you can customize with pins and stickers respectively, with proceeds benefiting FOF20 voter registration, education, and turnout initiatives, as well as the Lower East Side Girls Club. “Voting is all about using your voice and expressing yourself, so we wanted to make sure we were incorporating those values into our products by making them customizable,” she says. “I was also really inspired by the ‘I voted’ pins that are worn proudly on Election Day.”

Taylor says that it’s important for the fashion industry to use their platforms to advocate for other causes. “The fashion industry holds a lot of power. The reach it has is truly extraordinary and that influence should be used to encourage positive change. There are a lot of eyes on how the fashion industry will survive the pandemic, and being able to build an independent brand aligned with my personal values and to share that with others is what this industry should be more confident in expressing,” she says. “I think it’s important that designers feel a responsibility to use their platform to speak up for what they believe in and encourage change within their communities.”

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The Founder Of This Inclusive Jewelry Brand Wants You To Leave Your “Amazon Mindset” At The Door

Picking up your entire life and moving to another country is never easy. Harder still is fleeing persecution for who you are immediately following one of the worst financial crises in history. Al Sanimirova experienced exactly that when they came to the U.S. in 2009, without money, connections, or the ability to speak English. It’s out of this hardship that they created an inclusive fine jewelry brand called Automic Gold.

Making jewelry may have started out as the only way Sanimirova could make money, but it morphed into a means of expressing their identity as a non-binary person. From there, Sanimirova realized there was a market for fine jewelry that was both inclusive and accessible. Automic Gold has filled that need for many, but it didn’t happen overnight.

In this month’s edition of Talking Shop, Sanimirova tells us about their experience launching Automic Gold, from struggling to understand a capitalist society’s obsession with branding to rejecting the ridiculous notion of standard sizes.

Refinery29: Walk me through the process of launching Automic Gold.
Al Sandimirova: I’m an LGBT refugee. I immigrated to the U.S. in 2009, when I was 20 years old. I had to escape because my family and country were abusive so I came to this country. I hadn’t finished college and I never worked before in my life. I was trying to find a job locally, but I couldn’t really find anything because it was right after the economic crisis. I kind of had no choice but to start my own thing.

I started to buy old jewelry from the gold refinery. I would then repair them, appraise them, and sell them on eBay. After a while, I realized what my identity was. I am non-binary and particularly, non-binary with a more masculine style. Working with fine jewelry and diamonds, everything is so feminine or overly masculine, which also doesn’t fit for me. So I started to create pieces to just wear myself and people started asking and buying. One time, for Hanukkah, my friend bought 15 pairs of earrings I had designed, and I was like, ‘Oh, I think I need to make a brand around this.’ So in 2016, I officially started my line, and I launched the website in 2017.

You mentioned you didn’t finish college and didn’t have work experience before coming to America, have you had any formal business training since then?
Nope. I did some college in the math department, but I didn’t get to finish it because I had to migrate. I came to the U.S. without money, education, English knowledge, and no family.

What is a small business to you?
People come and work for me from corporate jobs, and I just don’t have that experience at all. What comes to my mind is that a small business is mostly about community, which compared to more corporate environments that are all about profits or achieving goals, is very different. A small business is when you work in one place, and you can see into the next room where everything is made and you can connect with all of the people within the business. It’s all about building a community. Everybody is a team and people are supporting each other. It’s like a family in that way. Automic Gold is not just my income, it’s my hobby and my lifestyle. 

Have you received any funding for Automic Gold?
No, I have had offers, but I refuse to take funding or loans because I want to build a business that will be good for the environment, for customers, and for employees. I don’t care much about growing or profits. I just want to have a salary for all of us and live well. I don’t want to have to compromise my values for numbers. I have sales, I have support, and I can afford to eat so why take an investment and probably work for some e-corp? That doesn’t make sense to me at all. Also, it’s my business! I came up with it. It took me time to figure out so why am I supposed to share? I make the profit. I don’t want some investors to make money off me.

It seems like you’ve faced a lot of personal challenges but what has been your biggest business challenge so far?
That’s a hard question. Every day is a challenge. The small business owner has so many problems every day. I can never really take time off. I do not have someone who can do my job while I am on vacation. It’s difficult to balance and take time off. I want to grow my business, respond fast to customers, and not miss opportunities, so it’s a challenge to not check emails while I am not working.

For me, as a person who did not grow up in a capitalist system, it was also particularly challenging to see how much I needed to invest in branding. For a long time, I didn’t even want to create the brand. I was like, “Oh if the designs are good, people will buy them.” Mostly through friends and word of mouth, I learned I needed an actual brand. I thought I could just make good merchandise and it would sell, but no. The merchandise is responsible for less than half of the success. I had to change my mindset that I’m not just selling the goods. A clever business is more about the brand, its values, and how you present and package yourself. For me, that was a very unusual switch since I did not grow up in this culture.

How did you come to change your mind? The branding is amazing. Your website is so appealing and the Instagram photos are beautiful.
Oh, it’s my employees. I have ten full-time employees and two part-time employees. I hired creative people who think like that because I wouldn’t be able to do that by myself.

I also want people to know that even though we have grown a lot, we’re not as big an operation as some of our corporate competitors. I want people to be nice to my employees and to my customer care representatives. Sometimes people come to us with this Amazon mindset, but we’re not set up like that. Every nice message really counts and every mean one hits. I have two people who are answering emails now, and I want people to realize that behind our brand are human faces so be nice to them.

What has been your biggest business win so far?
That was definitely hitting 10 million in total sales for the last three years! That was my biggest dream. I’ve always wanted to make more sales. In the past, whenever I would tell somebody that I was a small business owner, they would be like “Oh, you have an Etsy store and you make jewelry in your apartment. How cute?” I was always like, “No, I employ people. Fuck you.” Nobody ever took me seriously, and it made me so mad. So I was pushing to make more sales, but I wasn’t doing it because I just wanted more numbers. It wanted to prove myself. To see that I put myself out there and customers really supported it — the 10 million sales was just shocking to me and really nice.

That’s an amazing accomplishment. Have you thought about where you go from here? What’s your ultimate goal with Automic Gold?
I really just want Automic Gold to be inclusive. I want us to always be size-inclusive and be inclusive of different models. We’re still the only fine jewelry brand that carries a wide range of sizes for all of our items. Usually, other brands will have “plus sizes” in a separate collection. How ridiculous is that? Other brands say standard sizes are 5 to 9, but 9 is the average size for an American woman so how is it that nobody else goes over that for fine jewelry? People are told “just order custom,” and how must that feel?

Right now, when people shop for fine jewelry, there are expensive brand names that could start at $1,000 a pop or it’s some jeweler with bad quality pieces. I want to have good price, good quality fine jewelry for everybody. I want queer couples and people of all sizes to be able to come into any of my stores to buy an engagement ring, a wedding band, a nameplate, or something else special. Right now, people might not think of fine jewelry as something that’s even accessible. I want it to be fashionable, good quality, affordable, and in all sizes. My other dream is to have little stores in every city and in malls across America that offer this affordable and inclusive fine jewelry.

This interview was edited for length and clarity.

In Refinery29’s new Talking Shop series, we’re chatting with owners of up-and-coming small businesses about their experiences launching, the big challenges and wins they’ve faced, and of course, their products and services. Discover new spots to patronize, while getting an intimate look at what it takes to run a small business in today’s economy. Do you run a small business or do you want to recommend a small business you’d like to see featured on Talking Shop? Tell us more about it here.

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Telfar Won NYFW By Announcing A Collab With UGG

On Wednesday night, Telfar Clemens did what he does best by one-upping everyone and everything — even the first-ever digital New York Fashion Week — when he announced a surprise collaboration with fashion’s favorite “ugly” boot brand: UGG. “COMING 2021: TELFAR x UGG,” the designer, known for his “Bushwick Birkin” shopping bag, wrote alongside a video of himself wearing a tight, bejeweled black T-shirt featuring the logo for the collaboration — the name UGG with the first G shaped into the Telfar logo. Clemens then posted another short film that showed him trying on UGG items — from a shearling vest that he says “is how you do Bushwick” to a matching shearling bucket hat, which he wore to snuggle with his dog on the couch — all the while roaming around his home, making pancakes, and doing Zoom interviews with CBS.

Fans of the NYC-based brand know that Clemens is a long-time fan of the boot brand. In fact, he used UGG boots in shows going back to 2010, though he admits in the press release that he used them unofficially and was not authorized to do so. (Clemens notably deconstructed the classic UGG boot for his fall ‘11 fashion show.) But the brand didn’t mind, it seems. “Telfar is exceptional; a true pioneer and visionary and one of the first designers to believe that being unapologetically yourself is sexy,” said Andrea O’Donnell, the president of Fashion Lifestyle at Deckers Brands which owns and operates UGG. “We believe in the same thing,” she continues. “Fashion can be real, democratic, and aspirational all at the same time.”

“I find UGG really sexy,” the designer said in a press release, calling the brand’s signature shearling boots “a soft kind of rugged.” “I’ve always been obsessed with a certain kind of ubiquity and when something really unique ends up on everybody,” he continued. “What I want to do is get down to the DNA of UGG and see what genes we have in common. To get down to the core of that feeling.”

This announcement by Clemens couldn’t have come at a better time. Not only is Telfar coming off of a CFDA win and a number of near-instant sell-outs of his signature tote bag, but UGG boots are also having a moment. (It is almost fall, after all.) According to the fashion search engine Lyst, demand for UGG boots is up 24% week-over-week, with more than 41,000 searches for the brand in the last month alone. Of the most popular items are the Fluffette slipper, the Fluff Yeah slides, and the Classic Ultra Mini Boots, Lyst reports. And given that Clemens can be spotted in the Instagram video wearing the latter style, one can only hope it’ll be part of the UGG x Telfar mix come 2021 when the collection is released. 

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जाह्नवी कपूर के कंधों पर फिर दिखा उनका फेवरिट पर्स, चेहरे पर था हेवी मेकअप September 17, 2020 at 03:34AM

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‘दिलवाले’ मास्क में उर्वशी रौतेला का दिखा किलर लुक, तस्वीरें देख ख्याल आया- फैशन के नाम पर कुछ भी September 17, 2020 at 02:42AM

बॉलीवुड एक्ट्रेस उर्वशी रौतेला यूं तो हमेशा ही अपनी खराब ड्रेसिंग स्टाइल के चलते ट्रोलर्स के निशाने पर बनी रहती हैं लेकिन कभी-कभार एक्ट्रेस का फैशन इतना गजब का होता है कि देखते ही बात बन जाती है। अब हाल ही में स्पॉट हुईं उर्वशी की इन तस्वीरों को ही ले लीजिए, जिसमें अभिनेत्री का ऑल ब्लैक हर किसी को उनका दीवाना बना रहा है।

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