Monday, February 28, 2022

Everlane’s Latest Drop Is Giving Major ’80s Power Suit Vibes

In 1972, when a 26-year-old Diane Keaton appeared on The Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson, the titular male host asked his female guest if she was wearing a suit which she charmingly replied, “Yeah, it is a suit; I’m just like you guys.” To that, Carson curiously asked (and not even in any malicious way), “Is it a man’s suit you had fixed?” Keaton responded in the most Diane Keaton way, “No, it’s a female suit…and I am female.” Fifty years later, it’s hard to imagine anyone giving an F about women wearing suits — and, yet, it still seems to be a topic of conversation, comment, or consideration since suiting primarily carries on as a men’s-dominated aesthetic. Allure, in a 2016 article on the history of women in suits, reported that in July 1949, an image of Katharine Hepburn wearing a suit in an issue of Picturegoer magazine “was lauded as a shrewd publicity move: ‘That slack suit paid for itself several times over—for Katharine Hepburn got special mention in hundreds of different publications. If she’d worn a dress, her name would merely have been listed among the 55 other top stars.'” How iconique. When it comes down to it, women in suits simply appear bold and powerful, refreshingly insouciant towards overt feminity.

Those are enough reasons why Everlane’s new Modern Wardrobe Capsule is worthy of closer inspection, which consists of three key pieces (for now): A long trench, a boxy-fit blazer, and a slinky trouser. “Our Modern Wardrobe Capsule serves as a curated collection of versatile pieces that can be worn separately or together, and dressed up or dressed down for endless dressing opportunities,” a rep for Everlane told Refinery29 over email. “Specifically, the relaunch of these iconic styles into three new colorways gives our customers an easy way to create a polished and classic head-to-toe look, while still incorporating comfort through our breathable and environmentally-friendly fabric. We like the idea of the three pieces as a group being an easy way to mix and match into the wardrobe of today to move from smart to casual dressing.”

The 80’s Blazer, $185

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On the topic of the collection’s “environmentally-friendly fabric,” in keeping in line with the brand’s sustainable ethos, all three pieces — available in various colorways of black, tan, gingham, sandstone, and dark grey (depending on the style) — are made from plant-derived Tencel fabric, which “is biodegradable, requires a lot less dye, and is also pure white when produced, so no bleaching is necessary.”

Ahead of the modern capsule collection launch, Everlane sent over the three pieces for me to test in the gingham pattern, which is by far the most unique option out of the other neutral-flavored tones. I do have to say that the Tencel material feels incredible — it’s smooth to the touch, business-y but also breathable, substantial but not too thick or cumbersome. I am an owner of several suits that are made from delicate fabrics (only reserved for very special circumstances) and these Everlane suiting pieces aren’t like that at all; these feel extremely durable which is a major plus. It means I can get into a little rowdy, late-night mischief without concern — which is exactly what I want from a going-out suit.

The blazer — which is offered in sizes 00 to 16 — fits true to size in the shoulders and has a hem that drops to the upper-to-mid thigh. The pants, which also come in sizes 00 through 16, have two inseam lengths but as a 5’3″ person, the shorter-inseam pant still ran long on me (I will have to request a hefty alteration and/or only wear these with my highest platforms or heels). However, I knew that a taller pal will look very sharp in these trousers so I had my 5′ 7″ friend Naomi try on the pants and it worked out perfectly for her height. And I’d have to say my absolute favorite piece from the collection is the trench coat — available in sizes XXS to XL — which I sized down in (to account for my short height) and I think the fit and length are superb all around. I cannot wait to wear this as my picnic-inspired springtime layer.

The Gathered Trench, $178

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While this isn’t Everlane’s first rodeo when it comes to professional attire or timeless capsule wardrobe pieces, these suiting pieces seem to hit differently due to their unabashed 1980s bagginess. It looks like it was purposefully copped from the men’s department — but made to tailor-fit a women’s body. (We would like to believe Diane Keaton would highly approve of this.) “Our blazers, Way High Drape Pants, and the Drape Trench continue to be best-sellers, so we wanted to bring them all together for one cohesive, capsule collection,” an Everlane rep told us. “We also updated these styles by incorporating new product details and proportions to add a modern flare. For example, our Gathered Trench will now feature a material gathering under the front shoulder seams for a hint of femininity, while a high back slit and storm flap add more volume.” The brand plans to add new colorways and fabrications for all three silhouettes in the future.

The Way High Drape Pant, $98

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While suits always have a place at fancier events (hot tip: we recommend wearing a suit as a wedding guest outfit) or at a corporate-leaning office, it’s also a real “power” move to wear one casually — and this easy-going Tencel suit allows for that without feeling like you’re “overdoing it.” And for the professional who seeks a new go-to workplace ensemble, the timing of acquiring these suiting pieces from Everlane couldn’t be more ideal with many companies slowly announcing their office reopen plans. Whether it’s for work or play, we think this look will suit you well (sorry, it was a low-hanging pun).

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Your Ultimate Capsule Wardrobe Shopping Guide

A capsule wardrobe is nothing new. The term was coined back in the 1980s by Susie Faux, the West End boutique owner who introduced her clients to minimalist brands like Jil Sander, while Donna Karan popularised the idea in the USA in ‘85 with her Seven Easy Pieces. In 2014, Unfancy founder Caroline Rector reinvigorated buzz for the concept when she posed the idea of a 37-piece capsule, just as Marie Kondo’s decluttering method was shaking up wardrobes the world over. The notion of a refined and utilitarian collection of clothing, of creating the maximum number of outfits from as few items as possible, is a familiar one.

Now, though, its appeal is greater than ever. The pandemic has forced many of us to recalibrate our relationship with fashion. Giving us time to step off the fast-moving carousel of disposable trends, we’ve had hours in lockdown to sit with the clothes we own and admit which were bought to secure a quick and dirty serotonin hit in the shadow of Instagram’s comparison culture, fuelled by the ease of same-day delivery. For others, waking each morning to a global pandemic has left little room for the effort and energy required to pull together a playful outfit. With heavier burdens weighing on our minds, functionality is often the biggest draw when choosing what to wear each day. 

“People are starting to rethink their relationship with clothing and with nowhere to go, more time is being spent organizing and decluttering as well as learning how to create a streamlined wardrobe,” says personal stylist Eunice Abe of the surge in search for capsule wardrobes during lockdown. Donating, selling or gifting items which no longer fit into your life is a great way to save them from landfill but the aim isn’t to mindlessly purge your wardrobe and start anew. It’s about whittling it down to a selection of thought-out pieces which will help you to resist the pull of passing trends. “Building a capsule wardrobe made up of core items not only helps me shop less and rewear my pieces over and over again,” Eunice says, “but also to not shop impulsively for the ‘next best thing’ to wear.” I feel the same way. Pre-pandemic, I felt an involuntary urge to shop whenever I saw a new look on Instagram but since rotating a steady collection of around 15 pieces, from crew-neck knitwear and plain, long-sleeved tees to straight-leg jeans and my trusty Birkenstocks, I’ve found it easier to put some distance between what I tell myself I want and what I really need.

At the core of a capsule wardrobe is the idea that its contents transcend passing trends but of course it will mean different things to different people. If monochrome and minimalism isn’t your flavor, a capsule wardrobe bursting with print and color is just as valuable – so long as each piece can be worn in multiple ways. Fine-tune your wardrobe so that you’re wearing what you own as much as possible, so that each piece stands the test of time and serves a functional but joyful purpose in your life. What it looks like is up to you. 

Below, we’ve found the best pieces for a traditional capsule wardrobe, from summer-ready sandals to Breton striped tees.

The Black Turtleneck

From Audrey Hepburn to Steve Jobs to the stereotypical Parisian or beatnik-inspired creative, the turtleneck has stood the test of time for good reason. Layer yours under white workwear shirts and crew-neck knits or wear tucked into straight-leg denim.

The Plain White Tee

If you can avoid spillages and stains, the plain white tee is your hardest-working piece – just ask James Dean, Brigitte Bardot and Pam Grier. We’re teaming ours with black blazers, gold jewelry and flared denim but it works with just about anything, from slip skirts to high-waisted shorts.

The Straight-Leg Jean

Jeans silhouettes fluctuate – goodbye skinny, hello kick-flare – but the straight leg remains a constant faithful, no matter which way the pendulum swings. Levi’s Ribcage has a fantastic size range, while Re/Done’s repurposed pieces are the best sustainable option.

The Crew-Neck Knit

The crew-neck knit is a timeless classic with a neckline that lends itself to different necklace lengths. Don’t feel wedded to camel if it’s not a color you’d choose to wear, but do explore the cut’s styling possibilities: we’re wearing ours with big collar blouses and turtlenecks while it’s chilly and over slip dresses come spring.

The Lace-Up Shoe

Lace-up leather shoes aren’t for everyone, but if a smarter style works for your wardrobe, the styling solutions are endless. We enjoy them paired with a colorful sock and tailored trousers, with patterned tights and a mini skirt, with a black sock and a mini dress, and with straight-leg jeans and a turtleneck.

The Breton Tee

The Brittany-born striped top has been synonymous with French style ever since Coco Chanel turned the fisherman’s staple into a fashion favorite. Our preferred marinière tees are by Kule or Comme des Garçons Play, but there are heaps to choose from. Tuck into tailored trousers or denim and top off with black lace-up shoes or white kicks.

Gold Jewelry

Whether you go for chunky or subtle, yellow or pale-toned, gold jewelry is a perennial classic. It’s at its strongest against a block-colored background like a white tee or black rollneck – perfect for those back-to-back Zoom calls.

Loungewear

Loungewear may not have appeared in traditional capsule wardrobes throughout the years but if the pandemic has taught us one thing about getting dressed, it’s that comfort is a top priority. Whether you go for a coordinating set or sling a classic grey marl sweatshirt over your denim, make room for the newest addition to your wardrobe.

The Cross-Body Bag

Handbag trends fluctuate, from XXL totes to itsy-bitsy micro bags, but our daily walks around the park have hammered home the benefits of going hands-free. Make sure it fits all your essentials – hand sanitizer, keys, phone – and check the fastening is secure enough to make you feel comfortable. A.P.C’s Demi Lune is a perennial classic, but & Other Stories also has an impressive selection of black leather cross-body bags.

The Oversized Button-Down

Whether you nab a vintage linen number from the men’s section of your local thrift shop or borrow from your dad/brother/boyfriend, an oversized button-down shirt will last forever. Wear over turtlenecks or under oversized knits in winter and over slip dresses, swimsuits, and tucked into Bermuda shorts come summer.

The Black Ankle Boot

No matter your style of choice – hiker, Chelsea, monkey, lug sole or heeled – there’s a black ankle boot to suit everyone. Heritage labels like Hunter can be relied on for pairs that survive years of wear and tear, while contemporary labels such as Dear Frances and Ganni make dance floor-ready boots with interesting heels.

The Knitted Dress

Another new addition to the concept of a capsule wardrobe, the knitted dress is lockdown attire at its finest. Comfortable enough that you can hit the sofa but smart enough that you feel presentable for Zoom calls with your boss or virtual catch-ups with your family. Layer over a rollneck now and team with gold or silver jewelry and sandals when spring (finally) arrives.

The Summer Sandals

Beyond the sneaker revival, nowhere has the shift towards comfort-first been seen more than in sandals. Birkenstock has the lion’s share here, with its two-strap Arizona style dominating every season (with a fresh pedi for summer or chunky socks for winter) but Teva and Ancient Greek Sandals are both worthy investments for sandals you can wear from the pool to a sunny plaza in styles that won’t date.

The Trench Coat

The trench coat needs no introduction. Though the classic belted style is perfect for those wanting a defined silhouette, we’re enjoying the loose-fitting iterations coming from Alexachung for Barbour and Studio Nicholson. Nab a vintage Burberry number from eBay and wear with everything from midi dresses and boots to tailored trousers and tees.

The Tailored Trouser

Thanks to a slew of contemporary brands, tailored trousers have thrown off their stuffy and restrictive connotations. Universal Standard makes the smartest and sleekest pieces in a wide range of sizes while Oak + Fort’s streamlined styles are tempting us away from our trusty denim. Go suited and booted if you please but a tailored trouser looks as good with a white tee and silver jewelry as it does with a crew-neck knit.

Silver Jewelry

If gold isn’t your thing, simple silver pieces work equally well with just about everything in your wardrobe. From super-thin snake chains to no-need-to-take-them-out sleeper hoops, see Daisy, Missoma and Astrid & Miyu for the cream of the crop.

The Leather Jacket

Whether you want to emulate a Matrix-inspired cyberpunk or channel your inner Rebel Without A Cause, leather jackets are more adaptable than you might think. Vintage is best – they get softer with age and there are tons waiting for a new home – but the high street has some fantastic biker silhouettes, too.

The Tank Top

Thanks to the ’90s revival, the humble tank top enjoyed a renaissance in 2019. Now a summer staple, we wear ours with boxer shorts in bed, with slip skirts and mules for balmy evenings and with mom jeans and gold jewelry for a throwback look. Urban Outfitter’s Monica tank is the high street’s best offering but we love Totême’s too.

The White Sneaker

However you get your kicks, there’s a white sneaker for you. Box-fresh and chunky? You can’t go wrong with New Balance’s 1400. Retro-inspired? Look to Converse All-Stars or Adidas Sambas. For sustainable options, Veja and Cariuma hit the spot, and non-branded options come from Novesta. The more worn, the better – there’s no trick to styling this perennial classic.

The Black Coat

There are plenty of coat styles that never age, from a navy pea coat to a khaki parka. If you’re looking for something to survive every winter without being too trend-dominated, may we suggest a black coat? Whether you opt for double-breasted and wool, quilted and collarless or fuzzy faux fur, as long as you’ll get substantial wear out of it come winter, and it’ll protect you from the cold, it’s a forever piece for sure.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Gucci’s Latest Collection Includes A Collab With Adidas

After months of rumors, Gucci confirmed that it’s partnering with Adidas with the release of the brand’s fall 2022 collection during Milan Fashion Week. 

On Friday, creative director Alessandro Michele unveiled “Exquisite Gucci,” a lineup that included a mix of the brand’s signature two-piece suits with puff-sleeve dresses and corsets. The collection also featured pieces from the Italian house’s upcoming collaboration with the sportswear giant, which included cross-branded monograms and Adidas’ iconic three-stripe logo. 

“Clothes are capable of reflecting our image in an expanded and transfigured dimension… wearing them means to cross a transformative threshold where we become something else,” said Alessandro Michele in his show notes, referencing the contrasting nature of the collection, which meshed athleisure-leaning wares with the brand’s razor-sharp tailoring. 

It’s an interesting partnership for the two houses that could not be more different. Gucci’s knack for red carpet-worthy gowns and quirky accessories is world’s apart from Adidas’ performance-driven activewear. But, as past brand collaborations — notably: Gucci x The North Face and Adidas x Ivy Park — have shown, there’s a way to merge the two. 

For Michele, that came in the form of tailored suits bearing the Adidas x Gucci logo, as well as berets, ties, dresses, scarfs, and corsets that wouldn’t be spotted in a gym. The collaboration also includes accessories like the Adidas Gazelle sneaker reworked with velvet and monogrammed fabrics and Gucci’s signature bamboo tote emblazoned with the Adidas logo. 

This isn’t Gucci’s first collaboration, though. Last year, the luxury house partnered with Balenciaga on a “hacking” project, as well as a full-fledged collaboration with The North Face that included monogram-heavy jackets and fashion-forward activewear. 

While there are no specific details about the collaboration’s launch, it’s already promising to be one of the biggest drops of the year, alongside Yeezy Gap by Balenciaga. Until then, there are many trefoil-clad outfits to be planned. 

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The Bucket Bag Gets A Makeover With Mansur Gavriel’s Newest Launch

I’ve always been a fan of Mansur Gavriel’s understated-yet-quirky luxury aesthetic. When the brand launched back in 2012, I tried (unsuccessfully) to snag one of their coveted bucket bags, but they’d notoriously sell out minutes after they were dropped. I finally got my hands on a secondhand black bucket bag with a silver lining about four years ago, and boy did I get my money’s worth. I just retired the bucket from my wardrobe last summer… it’s now in the hands of my college-aged little sister, likely meeting its demise at some beer-soaked frat party. RIP. 

Mansur Gavriel is still going strong, consistently releasing new fashionable, yet timeless high-quality accessories, of course, most notably handbags. They recently restocked the editor-favorite Mini Cloud Clutch — and I’m crossing my fingers they restock more colorways of the Candy Bag — it’s truly the perfect 90s glam-inspired accessory. And just this month, Mansur released a brand new style: The Lilium Bag. As a lifelong quality over quantity proponent, I thought it was my duty to put my fancy girl-taste meter to the test *cue #materialgirl TikTok* to determine if the luxury accessory brand’s new style is worth the steep price tag.

The Lilium Bag, $745

The Lilium Bag is Mansur Gavriel’s evolution of their signature bucket-style. In my opinion, if a croissant bag had a chic cousin, this baby would be it. Although Mansur wasn’t inspired by this elite crescent-shaped pastry, the shape was inspired by a lily. It features a drawstring that gathers the bag at its opening — kind of like the bud of a flower — and has a curved silhouette that is meant to rest against your body comfortably. It’s made with a combination of durable brushed and soft Italian calf leathers, comes in two sizes: standard and large, and five colors: black/flamma, caramel, mint, dahlia, and bianca.

Did I Like It?

I’m always on the hunt for just the right everyday bag, so I’ve used my long-standing “perfect purse” requirements to analyze the Lilium: must have a crossbody option so I can roam hands-free, be roomy enough to fit a book (because who knows when you’ll get stuck underground between subway stops without cell service), and must be somewhat classic in shape so I’m confident it won’t go out of style in a year…I’m not a trendy purchaser especially when it comes to anything that’s a wardrobe investment piece.

To be honest, I wasn’t expecting to like this as much as I did. It checks all of my boxes. Most notably, the crossbody strap is superior. I’m very petite, so usually, bags with long straps hang awkwardly low on my frame, but this strap can adjust to be pretty short, so it rests on my side at just the height I prefer. I may be a rule-breaker, but I really like the bag without cinching the opening (shown above scrunching it closed vs. without). It made several trips on public transport secure against my body, fit all of my essentials (book, keys, wallet, sunglasses), and added bonus is that it looks like two completely different purses? If you’re in need of something roomier that can fit a full 13′ laptop(!) the Large Lilium may be more appropriate.

Is It Worth It?

This is where the almost $750 price tag comes into play. If you’re in the market for a true investment, and this style suits your needs, I’d say it’s worth the cost. Unlike their classic bucket bag which is very structures and takes a bit of time to break-in, the leather on the Lilium feels soft, and supple, while the durable leather on the bottom of the bag helps to keep its shape and makes me believe it’ll last for years to come.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Eloquii Is Making Wedding Gowns More Accessible With New Bridal Line

Just in time for wedding season, Eloquii — the direct-to-consumer brand that caters to plus-size women — announced its forthcoming bridal line. 

“Our thoughtfully designed Bridal by Eloquii collection features exquisite dresses and looks to suit every bride’s taste at an accessible price point,” said the brand’s head of design and creative, Yesenia Torres, via a press release. “We know they’re planning every single moment of the wedding experience with passion, and our selection provides an array of special pieces for all of the occasions related to their wedding, from the bridal shower and bachelorette party to the momentous day.”

The wide-ranging collection will features over 50 styles that go beyond the traditional white ballgowns, including slip and cocktail dresses, jumpsuits, and accessories in a creamy white, blush pink, and pastel color palette. 

Since launching in 2012, Eloquii has established itself as one of the few brands, offering fashion-forward designs for women over a size 16. “We created this collection for the modern, sophisticated fashion-loving bride who isn’t being serviced,” said Torres. “The goal of our Bridal by Eloquii collection is to provide the ultimate wedding wardrobe of fashion-forward silhouettes that are expertly crafted in design and fit for their special day and everything leading up to it.”

Expected to launch in summer 2022, Eloquii’s bridal line will offer styles ranging from $45 to $900, with dresses starting at $89. In the meantime, take a look at some of the designs in the works here.

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Are Lab-Grown Diamonds The Gemstone Of The Future?

For more than 50 years, diamonds have been the ultimate symbol of love and the go-to gemstone for engagement rings. From songs proclaiming them “a girl’s best friend” to ad campaigns highlighting their eternal power, diamonds are firmly embedded in our culture. But as the lab-grown diamond industry continues to rise in popularity and produce cheaper and more sustainable alternatives to mined diamonds, is the gemstone really forever?

First things first: What is a lab-grown diamond? “A lab-grown diamond is optically, chemically, and physically identical to a natural diamond,” explains Melissa Cirvillaro, chief marketing officer of Lightbox, a subsidiary of De Beers Group that creates lab-grown diamonds, via email. “It is grown in a laboratory over a period of weeks rather than mined from the earth.” The process involves a diamond seed — a thin wafer of existing gemstone — as well as raw carbon and energy, which are then put under conditions that mimic the natural environment where a traditional diamond flourishes. Over the past few years, it’s becoming a popular choice among consumers.

According to Vogue Business, six to seven million carats of lab-grown diamonds were produced in 2020. While mined diamond production still outpaces the lab-grown industry — in comparison, over 110 million carats of diamonds were mined in 2020 — this sector is growing: According to Aether, a lab-grown diamond jewelry brand, the market has grown from 1% to 5% in the past three years alone. Since then, not only have new lab-grown brands launched, but heritage and mainstream brands like De Beers Group and Pandora have adopted lab-grown options into their offering as well.

Why are people foregoing diamonds? 

While the earliest descriptions of diamonds were found in a Sanskrit manuscript dated to 320-296 BCE, the reason many people today own diamonds is thanks to modern-day marketing. Thanks to the legendary “A Diamond Is Forever” campaign launched in 1948, the De Beers company — one of the world’s biggest diamond miners, cutters, and sellers — successfully convinced the world that the only proper way to get engaged was with a diamond ring. This gave birth to the engagement ring industry as we know it today: From 1939 to 1979, wholesale diamond sales climbed in the country from $23 million to $2.1 billion. 

Yet, as consumers have become more aware of the environmental and social impact of their fashion and shopping choices, the question of ethics surrounding diamonds has also been raised. Some argue that this industry has a severe environmental, economic, and social impact on communities where natural diamonds are mined, fueling armed conflicts. Two decades since governments worldwide signed the Kimberley Process, a certification created in 2003 with a mission to reduce the mining and exporting of “blood diamonds,” human rights violations are still being documented in countries where diamond mining occurs. Yet, many still argue that the economic and social benefits are bigger than it seems: the Natural Diamond Council says that over 80% of the net economic benefits of diamond production are retained within their originating countries.

Are lab-grown diamonds more sustainable? 

There are also concerns when it comes to the environmental consequences of mining diamonds. While mined, diamonds require over 120 gallons of water for each carat, according to The Diamond Foundry, a company that produces synthetic diamonds, some lab-grown diamond companies use electricity and fossil fuels for production.

But many lab-grown-diamond companies are trying to extract energy and carbon from resources they claim are more sustainable. Marketed as the first-ever diamond made from air, Aether uses technology that captures carbon dioxide from the atmosphere to produce its diamonds. “We’re effectively reducing the carbon footprints of our customers and offsetting their impact,” the company’s CEO, Ryan Shearman, tells Refinery29. Aside from turning air into diamonds, Shearman says the company’s facilities and production also rely on clean energy from solar and wind power. Aether is also foregoing the use of other lab-grown diamonds for their seeds (ie. those thin diamond wafers) obtaining them instead from their own products, which they claim are “carbon negative.” 

“Our goal is to be able to not just act as a source of diamond jewelry and have a positive impact for our customers, but also from a business-to-business standpoint to be able to offer diamond seeds out there in the marketplace,” Shearman says. 

Los Angeles-based VRAI is also attempting to reduce the environmental impact of mined diamonds and its own lab-grown production. “We’ve been really focused on showing the beauty and the opportunity that lab-grown diamonds have by showcasing that you can have a luxury product that doesn’t compromise your ethics,” says Mona Akhavi, CEO of VRAI. 

The brand, which is owned by The Diamond Foundry, uses hydropower from the Columbia River in Washington to extract the energy needed to grow their diamonds. (While hydropower can help offset the carbon footprint, the practice has received criticism from environmentalist groups, who have called out the construction of large dams for their harm to wild rivers and fish populations.) 

While many lab-grown-diamond companies claim to be more sustainable than mined diamonds, there is no clear consensus on just how much energy lab-grown diamonds require: A 2011 report by the University of Virginia found that making lab-grown diamonds can use an estimated 20 kilowatt-hours per carat, while numbers provided to the trade publication JCK from “a veteran  [diamond] grower” show that a single-stone high-pressure, high-temperature press — one of two types of machines used to grow diamonds — requires 175 to 225 kilowatt hours per rough carat (a similar amount of energy to what the average American household uses to power a home for seven days).

Are mined diamonds over? 

Beyond ethics and sustainability, multiple reports conclude that diamonds have lost relevance with millennials and Gen Z who are less interested in engagement and marriage than generations before them. As society moves away from the idea of the nuclear family as its bedrock, so do the symbols that used to hold it together. In turn, diamond companies are adapting to fit changing social tides, turning to lab-grown diamonds for cheaper and more sustainable offerings. For proof, see Lightbox, which was founded by De Beers Group in 2018.

Then, there is the generational economic factor — millennials own just 5% of the wealth in the United States — which is makes the cheaper prices of lab-grown diamonds appealing to the demographic. For example, the cheapest available diamond stud earrings at De Beers are sold for $1,150 for a .14 carat diamond, while Lightbox offers a similar pair for $250 including a .25 carat diamond. 

But while lab-grown diamonds are more economical, many argue that they won’t retain their value as much as mined diamonds, which are becoming more rare: Global supply of mined diamonds peaked in 2006 with 176 million carats mined, a level that, according to Bloomberg, will never be reached again. “Natural diamonds are a finite natural resource: the earth is not making any more. So, this rarity makes them a long-term store of value,” Sally Morrison, public relations director at Lightbox, wrote via email. Experts envisioned that, in 2021, there would be a 15 million carat deficit in the supply of mined diamonds, which could lead to a demand in lab-grown diamonds. 

“Fewer and fewer mined diamonds will be available that are coming out of the ground, that means that the gap there can only be filled by lab-grown,” says Shearman. 

Are mined diamonds forever? Maybe not. But thanks to the lab-grown, they will remain eternal.

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