Thursday, December 9, 2021

And Just Like That… Features Carrie’s Signature Looks — & Brands From Instagram

While costume designers Molly Rogers and Danny Santiago had worked on the original Sex and the City series and movies, under Patricia Field, nothing could’ve prepared them for the social media frenzy that ensued when the first photos from the reboot series, And Just Like That…, were released back in July. “It was pretty powerful to see how quickly [photos from the show] spread across the universe,” says Rogers. “As soon as a foot came out [of] a camper onto the sidewalk and a paparazzi snapped it, less than five minutes later, it was posted online.”

Not only were photographers watching the cast’s every move, on and off the set, but just days after the first photo was revealed, an account called @justlikethatcloset, dedicated to identifying the fashion on the series, emerged on Instagram. The euphoria surrounding the show culminated in what Rogers calls “Forever 21-gate,” when a photo of Sarah Jessica Parker, who reprised her role as Carrie Bradshaw, wearing a maxi dress that fans incorrectly ID’ed as Forever 21 blew up the internet. “[The Internet] brought the world closer,” says Rogers. “But the world’s magnifying glass got closer, too.” In an unprecedented move for costume designers, Rogers and Santiago decided to create their own Instagram account, @andjustlikethatcostumes, which documented the behind-the-scenes process of dressing the show’s characters. “We wanted an account but we wanted it controlled by us,” says Rogers.

NEW YORK CITY, NY – AUGUST 02: Sarah Jessica Parker and Chris Noth are seen filming “And Just Like That…” on August 08, 2021 in New York City, New York. (Photo by RCF/MEGA/GC Images)

For the series — out on HBO Max now — Rogers and Santiago cemented a new style for the lead characters — Cynthia Nixon and Kristin Davis joined Parker — now in their 50s while unearthing memorable pieces from the show’s original run. “Even though time has passed, they’re still the people that they were,” says Santiago.

Rogers and Santiago remained true to Bradshaw’s love of eclecticism, styling her in a draped, blue Aquazzura dress for one scene and a menswear-inspired 1997 Jean Paul Gaultier suit the next. They also made sure to include the character’s signature looks, including the Fendi “baguette” bag, which got stolen in Season 3 of the original show; the Manolo Blahnik blue “Hangisi” pumps that Mr. Big used to propose to her in the first Sex and the City movie; a pair of Miu Miu platform pumps from Season 6’s Wall Street opening scene; and a blue flower pin from her Bill Kelley days. But it was one particular accessory — a feather, bird-like fascinator — that generated the most buzz. “I knew that was going to wig everybody out,” says Rogers. Some even speculated that it was a nod to her almost-wedding outfit in the first SATC movie, and therefore a sign that Bradshaw and Mr. Big were divorcing.

Back in the day, when Rogers assisted Field on SATC, she says the two used to roam New York City’s club scene to find designers and inspiration for the costumes. “You would see some fierce outfit on a kid in a nightclub and you would be like, ‘Who are you?’ she says. “Those days are long gone.” This time around, Rogers and Santiago turned to Instagram to find new, emerging designers to feature. A memorable one for Rogers is Rodney Patterson — a milliner in Bushwick, Brooklyn — who she used to commission a straw hat that Carrie wears at one point in the series. “You could literally send Rodney someone’s head size and you can have a hat back the day later in whatever color you want it,” she says.

Both Rogers and Santiago want to transport the audience back to the days when they were waiting for a new episode every week, savoring every costume. “We really had such an amazing time with everything we did and really love the looks that we put together,” says Santiago. “Hopefully, people will understand it rather than try to take it all apart.

As for “Forever 21-gate,” Rogers says that fans need to wait to see the show to understand why Carrie is wearing this outfit: “Then, we can hash it out.”

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The Great Resignation Is Here. What Does It Mean For Fashion?

After working through almost two years in a pandemic, people are quitting their jobs en masse, with more than 4 million Americans having resigned from their workplaces this past fall. Dubbed the “Great Resignation” by psychologist and Texas A&M University professor Anthony Klotz, this unprecedented event has called into question the culture of work and the changing hallmarks of a fulfilling job and career. As employees are rebelling against the nine-to-five grind they’ve previously considered as norms, these changes have rippled out into other areas of their lives. This includes clothing they’ve previously worn to perform their professional selves: Business-adjacent fashion trends like low-cut blazers, leather harnesses worn over jackets, and skirt suits so short you’ll never make it past your office entrance are rising in popularity. 

According to Klotz, since the pandemic took hold, it’s become clear that the physical office culture does not work for everyone. “When I go into the office, I have to [be] fake. It’s not just about wearing comfy clothes, it’s [not] about wearing clothes where I feel like I can express myself. The norms of the workplace don’t allow that,” he says. The Great Resignation has empowered people to question that way of thinking. “As soon as you decide [to] strike out and do something different — whether it’s going to work for another company, start an entrepreneurial venture, or pursue a hobby, you travel the world, stay home with family, whatever it is — the power balance shifts,” Klotz explains. As employees feel less attached to their work, they are coming into the office in whatever feels most comfortable to them. 

“Our work life isn’t what it used to be, and neither are the looks that are deemed ‘work-appropriate,’” says Morgan LeCaer, content lead at global fashion search site Lyst. “With the world tentatively heading back to the office, we quickly have had to adapt to the new nine-to-five — and doing so without sacrificing the comfort brought by loungewear over the past 18-plus months.”

The site listed “hybrid workwear” as one of the biggest trends in its 2021 Year in Fashion Report, following a 109% increase in demand for “oversized suits” in August 2021 and a jump of 87% for “wide-leg pants” in July, compared to last year. “Over the past six months, high-low workwear and generally more relaxed silhouettes have been especially popular,” says LeCaer. 

According to Stitch Fix’s general manager of women’s Loretta Choy, “71% of consumers said striking a balance between style and comfort is more important to them now than before COVID-19.” The site, which provides a subscription-based shopping service, has seen an increase of 39% in searches for “back to office” and “back to work” attire from last year. But while shoppers may be headed to the office, according to Choy, they are no longer looking for the same wardrobe: “The top business comfort styles for women that are trending right now include soft oversized boyfriend fit blazers, elastic waist pants, fly knit flats, and sweater dresses.”

In response, designers have reimagined what workwear looks like beyond fashion-forward athleisure sets or designer sneakers that were trending even prior to the pandemic. In one of the most buzzed-about spring 2022 runway shows, Miu Miu showed blue button-down shirts worn with cropped blazers and leather micro mini skirt suits — preppy, risqué styling better suited for Constance Billard’s courtyard than your typical workday. But while the low-rise waistlines and barely-finished hemlines might have seemed inappropriate for the office in a pre-pandemic world, our priorities have changed. Why worry about the hemline of your skirt when the coverage of your face mask, healthcare benefits, and a way to retire are more important? 

Klotz points out that another manifestation of the Great Resignation is the way people are embracing uncertainty, often quitting with no plan to follow their two-week notice. “It’s interesting that people are moving into these in-between spaces that are normally scary,” he says. While employees would typically dedicate an entire section of their wardrobe toward workwear, if there’s no guarantee that they’ll be coming back to a corporate office, what’s the point? As such, hybrid clothes that work for a variety of professional and social occasions are becoming more important to consumers. 

Take, for example, Alexander McQueen’s spring 2022 collection, which showed blazer dresses with statement sleeves and suits with slits on the jacket that work just as well in a conference room as a night out. Or, Peter Do’s spring 2022 show that included a variety of monochrome suits — some with no shirts underneath — as well as silk shirts, pants, and skirts perfect for both a year-long sabbatical and a first day back at the office. Choy has seen a similar trend happening with Sitch Fix’s customers. “Many of our clients who are beginning to go back to the office are only going in a few days a week,” she says. “This means they’re requesting pieces that they can wear in an office setting but that they will also reach for on work-from-home days.”

As people are handing in their resignations, they are also shelving their business suits. Klotz says that employers will need to compromise on past practices, including office dress codes, if they hope to retain their workforce in the future. 

If we are to believe runways, people will be grabbing mini skirts come springtime. But will they be heading to the office — or on their way out? 

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