Wednesday, March 16, 2022

A Guide To Urban Outfitters’ Biggest and Boldest Denim

Longtime fans of Urban Outfitters know all about BDG, which is UO’s exclusive in-house collection of denim goods and other reimagined wardrobe essentials. Famous for releasing of-the-moment styles mostly under $100, BDG is a best-kept secret destination for fashion lovers who want to experiment with major street-style trends without severely breaking the bank. I remember back when BDG was quick to be the ultimate source for all washes of perfectly fitting skinny and cigarette jeans — these days, in keeping up with the times, BDG is serving literally every type of loose-fit, baggy silhouette in a variety of colorways.

No matter your stance on the death of the skinny jean, the baggy pant continues to have a strong grip on the fashion industry — and perhaps you’re more curious than ever about incorporating un-clingy, ’90s-inspired silhouettes into your 2022 wardrobe? (It happens to the best of us. No matter how much we resist, there’s something about accommodating cargo pants we simply cannot deny.) This is where BDG comes into play. In an effort to help our readers shop the Gen Z clothier with confidence, we put together a quick guide to the best BDG denim styles based on the current loose-as-a-goose jean trends that you ought to consider — along with a few tips and tricks on how to pull off these voluminous bottoms for spring.

V-Front Jeans

BDG Dipped-V Wide Leg Jean, $79
For fans of rigid, non-stretch denim, these V-front jeans are both a great way to get acquainted with a low rise without fear of exposing too much from either the front or back, thanks to a well-disguised 9″ rise. Wear these jeans with a corset tank and a cardigan, or pair them with a cropped hoodie for a faux skate-park look.

BDG Ruched Dip-Waist Flare Jean, $79
Want something stretchier? These V-front pants include a hint of spandex for a more curve-hugging moment. The raw waistband reminds us of late ’90s Mariah Carey while the ruched front detail bring in whispers of reality TV-era Paris Hilton. The torn-off waist is the main attraction here — so do what Mariah would have done and top it off with a belly-button-length spaghetti strap tank.

Cargo Jeans

BDG RU Slouchy Skate Jean, $79
Actual cargo jeans from the Y2K era bulged out in cumbersome ways — but these BDG jeans have big pockets without any excess fabrics hanging off. We particularly love the high-rise and the paneling on these pants, which makes wearing a simple belly tee (or even a longline sports bra) an effortless maneuver.

BDG Isabel Extreme Cargo Jean, $109
If you want to take cargo to the next level, consider these wide-leg, mid-rise jeans that boast even more utility pockets on the front and sides. Follow the styling tip of this model and consider the combat boot with the cropped leg — or swap it with a high-top sneaker for warmer days.

Wide-Leg Jeans

BDG The A-Wide Jean, $69
If you’re not wearing denim that fans out in every direction, you’re not truly committing to the wonders of the wide-leg pant. With such roominess, wide-leg jeans are fabulous for wearing over tall cowboy boots or other calf-grazing shoes. For the summer, complement these jeans with a pair of platform thong flip-flops.

BDG High & Wide Jean, $49
Even though these wide-leg jeans are offered at a slightly cheaper price point, they still boast all the main features of the previous style — but with a leg opening that’s an inch shorter. Try wearing these with a cropped sweater and skate sneakers, or with a heeled sandal if you’re craving a little elevation.

Flared Jeans

BDG High-Waisted Comfort Stretch Flare Jean, $69
While technically not the baggiest of jeans, these kick-flare dungarees deserve a mention for sheer popularity (and the gentle peplum of volume from the mid-calf down). In case you’re unsure about flared jeans, these are currently ranking a 4.5 out of 5 stars, with reviewers writing, “LITERAL. FAVORITE. JEANS. Soooooooo flattering and comfy. You need yourself a pair!!!!!!!!!” and “So comfy and the most flattering jeans. So simple yet amazing. They are my favorite jeans I ordered them in every color!!!!!!!!” That’s the kind of power a 1% spandex blend can provide — a just-right slim fit at the thighs and waist until the flares take over from the knees.

BDG Y2K Belted Flare Jean, $79
How much do these jeans remind you of J.Lo? We absolutely stan anyone who opts for an all-white ensemble with these pants — we think it’d even look perfect with a loose, boxy tee on top.

Ultra-Baggy Jeans

BDG High-Waisted Baggy Jean, $49
Let’s shred. These jeans are so heavily distressed and baggy that wearing something rather soft and feminine on top offers a particularly well-contrasted outfit.

BDG Rih Low-Rise Extreme Baggy Jean, $79
Neon lime is one of 2022’s power colors and these jeans have us weak in the knees like Kryptonite. One way to pull off such a statement color is by going neutral everywhere else — think: black, white. Another way is to color block it with like-minded hues, such as a bright purple or royal blue.

Cowboy & Bootcut Jeans

BDG High-Waisted Seamed ‘90s Bootcut Jean, $89
Oh, how we adore the classic bootcut jean! These fit relatively straight-leg but with an ever-so-slight flare (to accommodate for traditional riding boots, of course). In essence, this is the style we’d most recommend if you’re interested in a variety of different trends — wide-leg, flares, baggy — but still wanna keep things on the more streamlined side.

BDG High-Waisted Cowboy, $49
A little more relaxed in the thigh, these cowboy-inspired jeans are perfect for casual days — throw on a sweatshirt, some sneakers, and a crossbody bag — and you’re good to run around town from day-to-night.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Now In Linen: Anthropologie’s “Magic Fabric” Pants That Have Been Restocked 25 Times

Based on my personal experience and many seasons of pant-wearing, I think it’s safe to assume that, historically speaking, most people have a difficult time finding mwah-fitting spring pants that are wide-legged and cropped and made from linen. If cropped too short, your pants look clownish. If you’re tall, your trousers become confused gauchos. Depending on your body type, the silhouette may not fly. The concept of the lightweight and wide-legged cropped pant is always wish-list-worthy, but too many brands haven’t gotten a handle on a fit that will accommodate and flatter a variety of bodies. However, it seems like Anthropologie has cracked some kind of code when it comes to the billowing bottom. Trouser-ites, meet the Colette: Anthropologie’s gold-medal, best-selling pant of 2021. Its winning reign continues in 2022, and it just arrived in a spring-ready fabrication: a chic, ankle-grazing linen.

Maeve The Colette Cropped Linen Wide-Leg Pants, $130

First, let’s dig more into the secret sauce behind the Colette’s “Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants”-like fit. “Our customers love our ‘magic fabric,’ a flattering blend of fabrics, which we run all-year-round,” a rep from the Anthro design team told R29. “It’s super stretchy and comfortable but looks and feels super refined. Once we saw the interest pick up immediately, we started offering the Colette in seasonal fabrications and increased our SKU count.” To date, the Colette has been made in over 24 fabrications and colors and has been restocked a whopping 25 times. “In addition, when we launch seasonal fabrics — such as cord in fall and linen in spring — we see a huge uptick in our customers’ interest,” the Anthro rep continued. “We are very excited to be launching in faux leather this August.”

Well, I simply had to try this linen pant for myself — and I went with a petite length in vibrant amethyst (the linen pant is currently available in three colorways: navy, purple, and a printed leaf motif). My first immediate thought was, dang, this “magic fabric” really does feel enchanting: It’s a smooth-finish linen blend that’s not raw or scratchy or papery-thin like other linen pieces (which also means it’s less prone to those dreaded “linen wrinkles”). And, as the design team had mentioned, it’s got a sweet touch of elastane — enough so that there’s some wiggle room for the pant to fit, but not so much that it’ll lose its shape entirely. My second thought? I’m obsessed that this pant is offered in a true petite length of 24″, which means it’s actually cropped for my 5’3″ frame. (The pant also comes in standard, tall, and plus in sizes 00 through 26W.)

Wearing the Colette IRL, I understand why this pant is such a cult fave. The fabric just kind of slinks down the leg which makes the pants move and take the form of the wearer’s gams, rather than trying to stubbornly maintain its own wide-legged silhouette like other pants do. “The pant has no side seam which is what helps give it an elevated look and great fit,” confirmed the Anthro rep. “Our linen is soft, breathable, and bouncy with the perfect amount of comfortable stretch. We wash it down so it has the right relaxed drape with a subtly sleek finish,” they added. “Not to mention being easy to care for, making it perfect for getaways and easy dressing.”

While I’ll be traipsing around town in the Colette Cropped Linen for the imminent warm weather, if you’re curious about the other best-selling Colette styles available, there’s the Colette Full Length, the Colette Ponte, and the original Colette Cropped — all at $120 a pair.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Alexander McQueen Returned To NYC After 20 Years With A Nature-Inspired Show

There was a lot of talk about mushrooms ahead of the Alexander McQueen Fall 2022 fashion show. As soon as teasers began to quite literally sprout in the form of (virtual) mushrooms, people began to wonder whether it was a sign that the line would debut mushroom leather (see: Stella McCartney) or feature mushroom prints (Rodarte, Brandon Maxwell). Or even: Did head designer Sarah Burton engage in some psychedelics in preparation for what was bound to be a trippy collection? 

The answers arrived on Tuesday. As is the case with most things that the British luxury house provides, they were a lot more subtle than expected. As explained in the show notes,  the new collection wasn’t inspired by mushrooms (or shrooms, for that matter) but rather mycelium, the vegetative part of fungus, and “nature as a community that is far, far older than we are.”

“Mycelium connects even the rooftop of the tallest skyscraper to the plants, to the grass, to the ground, to animals, and to human beings. Mycelium has the most profound, interconnecting power, relaying messages through a magical underground structure, allowing trees to reach out to each other when either they or their young need help or are sick,” the notes read. “We exist as single, individual entities on one level, but we are far more powerful connected to each other, to our families, to our friends, to our community.”

This came through in the setting. As guests sat wrapped around mounds of fallen tree mulch in an industrial warehouse — not unlike the synagogue-turned-community center on the Lower East Side where McQueen showed 26 years ago — in the decidedly unfashionable Brooklyn Navy Yard, a soundtrack of birds and insects filled the space. 

The collection, too, was fitting for those of us who have stayed in cities since the pandemic took hold two years ago while simultaneously yearning for woodland forests and pastoral fields as we were stuck in our apartments. To the sound of The Cure’s “A Forest,” models walked out in full-skirted leather dresses in colors ranging from black to sunshine-bright yellow; asymmetrical moto jackets with soft, flowing hems; and unraveling sweaters — as cottagecore as it gets for New Yorkers.

As always, the highlight of Burton’s collection was the razor-sharp suiting, in particular the tie-dye-esque pieces that called to mind one of the late Lee Alexander McQueen’s most famous looks: the strapless white dress, spray-painted live by robots at the brand’s Spring 1999 show. In line with more of the house’s signature looks, the red carpet-ready dresses were re-imagined in shorter hemlines, including a crystal-encrusted one-shoulder mini modeled by Kaia Gerber, and more-utilitarian silhouettes, in the form of a tuxedo blazer-style dress with ribcage slits. And while there were traces of more literal fungi-inspired fashion in the form of an acid green pantsuit and mushroom-printed knits and tassel-embellished frocks, they were far from the most interesting pieces seen on the runway.

Maybe then viewers were never meant to forage for clues in the show’s teasers or even in the clothing shown. Bur rather spend that time engaging with our community to, as the brand’s notes put it, “restore, reinvent, rejuvenate – heal.”

View the full show below (start at 59:10):

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Do Non-Binary Shoppers Really Want More Genderless Collections?

In the past few years, as fashion brands have realized the financial upside of being more inclusive, they’ve begun to target the non-binary community by venturing into gender-neutral and genderless fashion. While on the surface, this is a good thing for fashion — an industry that has long overlooked anyone who wasn’t a cisgender, white, straight-sized shopper — the plain-looking brown sweats and boxy T-shirts that often come out as a result of these largely uninspired gender-neutral collections do little for the community they are supposed to cater to. For one, there are often modeled on androgynous-looking skinny, white models, suggesting that it’s, well, the model image of a non-binary shopper. 

“If you just create a non-binary brand and say ‘this is non-gendered clothing,’ you are essentially trying to say that there’s only one type of body that a non-binary person could occupy or possess,” Nyx Melody, psychotherapist and anti-oppression/LGBTQPA+ consultant, tells Refinery29. 

For queer people who use style to experiment with and affirm their gender, it’s damaging when the clothing offerings only serve one small portion of the community, particularly when it comes to sizing. “A lot of these brands that celebrate gender neutrality do not make shit for me. They do not have shit in my size,” says Vince, a 25-year-old non-binary trans-femme woman from Seattle who preferred to not disclose their last name. Even when brands do cast non-binary people in their campaigns in an attempt to be genuinely inclusive, Vince views it as “inherently performative.” 

“I think more often than not, when we are included in these big brands, we are included as PR stunts, and I don’t like being a stunt,” Vince says. 

This belief is shared throughout a lot of the queer community, who often only see themselves catered to during a very specific time of the year: June, aka Pride month. That belief is confirmed when even the most well-meaning brands remove the rainbow icons and banners as soon as the clock turns to midnight on July 1. 

I love crop tops and mini skirts. And that doesn’t fit into this narrative of what non-binary fashion has been made out to be.

Blossom Brown, TikTok educator

Only being seen when it is convenient for capitalism’s sake is nothing new. When Blossom Brown, a TikTok educator and non–binary trans woman, came out two years ago, they realized the image of non-binary some brands had — a “vague vanilla version of masculinity” — didn’t fit them. “The world is obviously so binary that the sort of aesthetic that’s being curated for this non-binary category is really marketed towards a very specific group of people. That very specific group of people do not encompass the entire community,” Blossom says. For their part, Brown prefers “dopamine dressing” that leans on a ‘90s/Y2K fashion aesthetic and “anything sparkly, fuzzy, or transparent.”

“I love crop tops and mini skirts. That’s my uniform. And that doesn’t fit into this narrative of what non-binary fashion has been made out to be,” Brown says. 

Brown’s aesthetic is in stark contrast to that of Vico Ortiz, a non-binary Puerto Rican actor, drag king, and activist who describes their style as “femboy, like a pretty boi.” Ortiz says that, at the beginning of their career, they had to “really femme up, really sell this woman-on-societal-standards-like role.” 

“I really went for it. [But] it felt so uncomfortable because I wasn’t doing it on my own terms,” they say. 

After years in the spotlight, Ortiz now feels secure in flowing between what are perceived as traditionally masculine and feminine aesthetics. “That beautiful flow between both energies internally and externally is a constant reminder for myself that I don’t owe anyone androgyny,” they say. “Non-binary can literally be anything. If I were to put on a dress and some heels and walk out of this apartment and go out into the world, I’m still non-binary. If I want to put on a suit and tie or a bow tie and draw on a mustache, I’m still non-binary.” 

According to Yamikani Msosa — a movement practitioner for Black grief and equity consultant from Lilongwe, Malawi who is now based in Ottawa, Ontario — instead of releasing gender-neutral collections, the fashion industry should be stripping clothing of gender entirely. “Gender-neutral, like what is that? It [can’t be] even materialized because it’s so individual,” says Msosa, who identifies as someone “who’s gender fucking.”

Ideally, according to Msosa, there would “be no gender markers anywhere, so we can just shop where we want to shop without somebody policing.” 

If I were to put on a dress and some heels, I’m still non-binary. If I want to put on a suit and tie and draw on a mustache, I’m still non-binary. 

Vico Ortiz, actor, drag king & activist

Others in the community agree. “I think genuinely that clothing would do a lot better if we divided it by what type of clothing it was,” Vince, who describes their style as “dressing like a slot machine,” says. “The move forward is to just stop gendering clothes and allow people to decide how they want to dress up their own bodies,” Brown echoes. “Straight up just mix and match, not have a men’s section or a women’s section. Everything is just up for grabs for whoever wants it,” adds Ortiz.

It’s the simplest answer in the book. Think of most thrift stores, with their piles of clothing, broken up by clothing style category rather than gender. This is especially helpful when it comes to the intricacies of body parts. For example, Boy Smells, the brand best known for its perfumes and candles, separates its underwear section with “flat front” and “pouch front.” 

Another example of a brand that seems to understand this is Tanner Fletcher, an emerging genderless fashion label that recently showcased its Fall 2022 collection at NYFW. “We don’t think non-binary folks are looking for this crazy new type of non-binary fashion,” designers Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell, told Refinery29. “We think non-binary folks just want the freedom to see something they like regardless of how they identify, grab it off the rack, and be authentically themselves without unnecessary labels and the judgment that comes with them.”

From delicate floral sweater vests to Western-style white tassel suits, Tanner Fletcher’s “label-less” offerings are anything but boring. “We wanted to bring our own distinct style into the fashion world while having nothing to do with the gender of our customers.”

In challenging the mainstream notion of what non-binary fashion is, they have encountered some bumps along the way. “We are seeing a reaction from some retailers where they cannot wrap their minds around removing gender labels,” the designers say. “The common misconception is that women have curves and men do not. This simply isn’t true. We see plenty of male-identifying people that are very curvy… Many female-identifying people are very boxy, broad-shouldered, tall, etc. This is why the gender label just gets in the way. People are people, and each person is not the same as the next.”

Melody agrees that genderless fashion isn’t about stripping style of personal expression. “Non-binary expression is as colorful and as diverse as the human population,” they say. “For folks who hold a binary trans identity, I think it can be incredibly affirming to go into a particular section, grab clothing and be like, this is great. This is amazing. I’m affirming my womanness or I’m affirming my manliness.” 

Indeed, the word “non-binary”  is an umbrella term, encompassing many different types of gender-expansive experiences and identities. As such, creating “genderless” collections that cater to a limited image of what a non-binary shopper looks like and wears overlooks the multi-dimensional community they claim to want to serve. The reason why I and many others in the community feel drawn to the term is that it’s a non-label label. It fights against the outdated idea of the gender binary.

Gender-queer experiences don’t fit in tidy little boxes; they are meant to exist outside of them. When brands create categories, it feels as if they’re trying to fit us back into those boxes we spent our entire lives trying to escape from. 

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