Tuesday, December 8, 2020

Christian Siriano Is Upcycling Never-Before-Seen Designs For His Next Collection

In 2019, logos were ubiquitous, with Fendi’s Zucca print being named Lyst’s logo of the year and Off-White — known for its use of its stripe, X, and arrow logos — being named the year’s most searched brand. Now, fashion designer Christian Siriano debuted a logo, too, though it’s not for his namesake brand, but rather for online thrift store thredUP. The Thrift Logo is also the first-ever universal symbol for secondhand clothing

“Everything that’s happened in our world in the last year has made being more conscious — in the world of fashion especially — super important,” Siriano tells Refinery29. “I’m a designer that has always, in a way, designed like that. I never was a big, mass-market brand. We’re more curated and try our best not to contribute too much waste or over-dye fabrics.” That said, in the 12 years since he founded his namesake brand, despite trying his best to avoid waste, has seen a lot of his garments “go in a box having never been worn or worn once to be archived,” he says. “It started to really bother me.”

“I like the idea that my clothing could have a second or even third life,” he continues. “Often, I’ll try and send out pieces that may be five or six seasons old, because even if they’ve never been worn by a celebrity or an actress, they can still be appreciated. Why can’t they be worn now?” 

Siriano recently sent a dress from his pre-fall ‘19 collection to Patricia Field, a longtime friend of the designer and the costume designer for TV shows and films like Sex And The City and The Devil Wears Prada, for the fashion-filled Netflix hit Emily In Paris. The black, off-the-shoulder, tea-length dress appeared on Emily Cooper (Lily Collins) during the opera scene. “‘I need her to be Audrey Hepburn,’ she told me, and I was like, ‘I got it!’” (On Tuesday, Collins shared her support for thredUP’s thrift logo on Instagram.) 

When designing his upcoming collection, he also found himself looking back through his archives. “I’m taking pieces that never made the cut, and I’m upcycling them to show that they can still work in a collection,” he explains. For example, after making a suit for the Met Gala that ended up being boxed up, he is now planning on using it. “I was like, No, I’m going to use it. I want to pull it out. I want to update it. So it’s going to go in the next collection,” he says. 

So when thredUP approached the designer about designing The Thrift Logo, intended to build a bigger community around thrifting and giving clothing a longer life, he was immediately intrigued. “I love the idea of a universal symbol that can make people feel like they’re a part of something bigger — something more meaningful,” he says. “I think that a lot of consumers are shopping that way more and more [this year]. They want their clothes to mean something.” 

“Our hope is that [this logo] is widely adopted by thrifters and resellers to spark conversation about fashion waste and inspire more people to shop sustainably,” thredUP’s VP of Integrated Marketing Erin Wallace tells Refinery29. The logo, a teal-and-blue hanger with the word ‘thrifted’ embroidered on it, is now available on thredUP.com and will be included for free in all orders made this week. Moving forward, the company will be partnering with other thrift stores and resellers, starting with Crossroads Trading. 

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17 Holiday Sweaters You’ll Want To Wear

The holidays are coming! And, that can only mean one thing: super bedazzled, loud, and maybe not so aesthetically pleasing festive sweaters. Not this year. Bid bye-bye to lacklustre embellishments, day-glo colour combos, and boring illustrations. And, say hello to bright hues, fair isle knits, and just the right amount of sparkle.

This not-entirely-ironic tradition has gotten a fashion makeover for the ages — and not a moment too soon. Ahead, the 17 holiday styles you'll wear all season long. And there's not a single Santa sweater in sight.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team, but if you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.


Free People Snow Globe Pullover, $, available at Free People


BP. Fair Isle Cardigan, $, available at Nordstrom


Anthropologie Gaia Sweater, $, available at Anthropologie


Madewell Floral Hazelwood Pullover Sweater, $, available at Madewell


H&M Beaded Cable-Knit Sweater, $, available at H&M


Wednesday's Girl Sweater In Diamond Knit, $, available at ASOS


Columbia Pine Street Jacquard Pullover Sweater, $, available at Backcountry


& Other Stories Floral Embroidery Cable Knit Alpaca Cardigan, $, available at & Other Stories


Eloquii Fairisle Sweater, $, available at Eloquii


Lucky Brand Crew Neck Striped Fairisle Sweater, $, available at Amazon


UO Neve Shawl Collar Cardigan, $, available at Urban Outfitters


Kule The Millie - Multi, $, available at Kule


A New Day Cable Stitch Pullover Sweater, $, available at Target


Farm Rio Colorful Dots Sweater, $, available at Farm Rio


Oak + Fort Jacquard Pullover, $, available at Oak + Fort


Zara Pearl Button Jacket, $, available at Zara


L.L. Bean Classic Ragg Wool Sweater, $, available at L.L. Bean

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The Founder Of This Inclusive Jewelry Brand Wants You To Leave Your “Amazon Mindset” At The Door

Picking up your entire life and moving to another country is never easy. Harder still is fleeing persecution for who you are immediately following one of the worst financial crises in history. Al Sandimirova experienced exactly that when they came to the U.S. in 2009, without money, connections, or the ability to speak English. It’s out of this hardship that they created an inclusive fine jewelry brand called Automic Gold.

Making jewelry may have started out as the only way Sandimirova could make money, but it morphed into a means of expressing their identity as a non-binary person. From there, Sandimirova realized there was a market for fine jewelry that was both inclusive and accessible. Automic Gold has filled that need for many, but it didn’t happen overnight.

In this month’s edition of Talking Shop, Sandimirova tells us about their experience launching Automic Gold, from struggling to understand a capitalist society’s obsession with branding to rejecting the ridiculous notion of standard sizes.

Refinery29: Walk me through the process of launching Automic Gold.
Al Sandimirova: I’m an LGBT refugee. I immigrated to the U.S. in 2009, when I was 20 years old. I had to escape because my family and country were abusive so I came to this country. I hadn’t finished college and I never worked before in my life. I was trying to find a job locally, but I couldn’t really find anything because it was right after the economic crisis. I kind of had no choice but to start my own thing.

I started to buy old jewelry from the gold refinery. I would then repair them, appraise them, and sell them on eBay. After a while, I realized what my identity was. I am non-binary and particularly, non-binary with a more masculine style. Working with fine jewelry and diamonds, everything is so feminine or overly masculine, which also doesn’t fit for me. So I started to create pieces to just wear myself and people started asking and buying. One time, for Hanukkah, my friend bought 15 pairs of earrings I had designed, and I was like, ‘Oh, I think I need to make a brand around this.’ So in 2016, I officially started my line, and I launched the website in 2017.

You mentioned you didn’t finish college and didn’t have work experience before coming to America, have you had any formal business training since then?
Nope. I did some college in the math department, but I didn’t get to finish it because I had to migrate. I came to the U.S. without money, education, English knowledge, and no family.

What is a small business to you?
People come and work for me from corporate jobs, and I just don’t have that experience at all. What comes to my mind is that a small business is mostly about community, which compared to more corporate environments that are all about profits or achieving goals, is very different. A small business is when you work in one place, and you can see into the next room where everything is made and you can connect with all of the people within the business. It’s all about building a community. Everybody is a team and people are supporting each other. It’s like a family in that way. Automic Gold is not just my income, it’s my hobby and my lifestyle. 

Have you received any funding for Automic Gold?
No, I have had offers, but I refuse to take funding or loans because I want to build a business that will be good for the environment, for customers, and for employees. I don’t care much about growing or profits. I just want to have a salary for all of us and live well. I don’t want to have to compromise my values for numbers. I have sales, I have support, and I can afford to eat so why take an investment and probably work for some e-corp? That doesn’t make sense to me at all. Also, it’s my business! I came up with it. It took me time to figure out so why am I supposed to share? I make the profit. I don’t want some investors to make money off me.

It seems like you’ve faced a lot of personal challenges but what has been your biggest business challenge so far?
That’s a hard question. Every day is a challenge. The small business owner has so many problems every day. I can never really take time off. I do not have someone who can do my job while I am on vacation. It’s difficult to balance and take time off. I want to grow my business, respond fast to customers, and not miss opportunities, so it’s a challenge to not check emails while I am not working.

For me, as a person who did not grow up in a capitalist system, it was also particularly challenging to see how much I needed to invest in branding. For a long time, I didn’t even want to create the brand. I was like, “Oh if the designs are good, people will buy them.” Mostly through friends and word of mouth, I learned I needed an actual brand. I thought I could just make good merchandise and it would sell, but no. The merchandise is responsible for less than half of the success. I had to change my mindset that I’m not just selling the goods. A clever business is more about the brand, its values, and how you present and package yourself. For me, that was a very unusual switch since I did not grow up in this culture.

How did you come to change your mind? The branding is amazing. Your website is so appealing and the Instagram photos are beautiful.
Oh, it’s my employees. I have ten full-time employees and two part-time employees. I hired creative people who think like that because I wouldn’t be able to do that by myself.

I also want people to know that even though we have grown a lot, we’re not as big an operation as some of our corporate competitors. I want people to be nice to my employees and to my customer care representatives. Sometimes people come to us with this Amazon mindset, but we’re not set up like that. Every nice message really counts and every mean one hits. I have two people who are answering emails now, and I want people to realize that behind our brand are human faces so be nice to them.

What has been your biggest business win so far?
That was definitely hitting 10 million in total sales for the last three years! That was my biggest dream. I’ve always wanted to make more sales. In the past, whenever I would tell somebody that I was a small business owner, they would be like “Oh, you have an Etsy store and you make jewelry in your apartment. How cute?” I was always like, “No, I employ people. Fuck you.” Nobody ever took me seriously, and it made me so mad. So I was pushing to make more sales, but I wasn’t doing it because I just wanted more numbers. It wanted to prove myself. To see that I put myself out there and customers really supported it — the 10 million sales was just shocking to me and really nice.

That’s an amazing accomplishment. Have you thought about where you go from here? What’s your ultimate goal with Automic Gold?
I really just want Automic Gold to be inclusive. I want us to always be size-inclusive and be inclusive of different models. We’re still the only fine jewelry brand that carries a wide range of sizes for all of our items. Usually, other brands will have “plus sizes” in a separate collection. How ridiculous is that? Other brands say standard sizes are 5 to 9, but 9 is the average size for an American woman so how is it that nobody else goes over that for fine jewelry? People are told “just order custom,” and how must that feel?

Right now, when people shop for fine jewelry, there are expensive brand names that could start at $1,000 a pop or it’s some jeweler with bad quality pieces. I want to have good price, good quality fine jewelry for everybody. I want queer couples and people of all sizes to be able to come into any of my stores to buy an engagement ring, a wedding band, a nameplate, or something else special. Right now, people might not think of fine jewelry as something that’s even accessible. I want it to be fashionable, good quality, affordable, and in all sizes. My other dream is to have little stores in every city and in malls across America that offer this affordable and inclusive fine jewelry.

This interview was edited for length and clarity.

In Refinery29’s new Talking Shop series, we’re chatting with owners of up-and-coming small businesses about their experiences launching, the big challenges and wins they’ve faced, and of course, their products and services. Discover new spots to patronize, while getting an intimate look at what it takes to run a small business in today’s economy. Do you run a small business or do you want to recommend a small business you’d like to see featured on Talking Shop? Tell us more about it here.

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From Men’s Button-Downs To Pearl Necklaces, Father Of The Bride II Is Full Of Lockdown Fashion

When you think of movies with great clothes, a few fashion films quickly come to mind. There’s Sex & The City and The Devil Wears Prada for designer labels, Clueless for the ‘90s fashion trends, and Atonement for that green dress. (Personally, I also have a special place in my heart for the dual-toned, lace slip dress Jenna Rink wears in 13 Going On 30.) Rarely do films like Father of the Bride get brought up in the conversation — let alone the sequel. And yet, here I am, tossing the film into the fashion ring on its 25th anniversary. Why? Because Father of the Bride II features all of the items I have worn since lockdown began: men’s button-downs, elasticized bodysuits, and ‘80s-style sneakers. All that, and pearls

Father of the Bride II — starring Steve Martin, Diane Keaton, pre-Succession Kieran Culkin, and Kimberly Williams-Paisley — picks up with Williams-Paisley’s character, Annie Banks, pregnant. Coincidentally, so is her mother (Keaton). The film is not exactly set in the fashion closet at Runway magazine, or, for that matter, on an all-expense-paid trip to Abu Dhabi. Instead, Father of the Bride II centers around the two women, both of whom spend most of the film at home, trying their best to stay entertained during a very hot summer, as well as their third trimesters.

Annie and Nina work out to videotapes in the living room, take mid-day naps to the sound of old movies, and redecorate — a lot. All the while, they wear comfortable, non-restrictive garb, from ribbed leggings paired with tunics to jersey onesies with sneakers. (And pearls, don’t forget the pearls.) Sound familiar? Minus the whole pregnancy part (for me at least), the 1995 flick is essentially a lesson on how to stay busy during quarantine — and, more importantly (again, for me at least), how to dress for it. Hell, even the extras dress with what seems like 2020 in mind, with a woman, on a run with her child in the stroller, shown wearing margarine-yellow sweatpants and sneakers mid-movie. (Entireworld, anyone?) 

And then there’s dad (Martin). After re-watching the film, I’ve come to realize this: When we talk about “dad style” making a comeback, George Banks is exactly who we’re referring to. He wears some seriously chunky sneakers and frequently sports perfectly worn-in chambray shirts, which he wears over white T-shirts. Even his pajamas — a Brooks Brothers-esque blue robe, paired with blue and white striped boxers, and tube socks worn with slippers — have an air of 2020 cool about them. In fact, his boxers very closely resemble a pair I splurged on from London-based streetwear brand Aries Arise, the likes of which are now sold out. And given how much time is spent at home these days, pajamas are just as much an all-day staple as your favorite jeans once were, especially if your boss allows you to Zoom call without your camera on.

Where we used to dream about Andy’s Chanel thigh-high boots from The Devil Wears Prada — and someday, we’ll dream of them again — right now, comfortable fashion is what’s appealing to us and our WFH life. For me, that means throwing on a pastel-striped button-down stolen from my dad’s closet, and wearing it with bike shorts, tube socks (preferably of the Brother Vellies Cloud variety), and retro-esque sneakers.

The song playing during the film’s intro seems to say it all when it coos, “Give me the simple life.” Because in 2020, it’s the simple things — like a good chambray shirt or a pair of rolled-up boxers — that make all the difference in my wardrobe.

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