Over the past few years, fashion has become a revolving door of trends and “aesthetics” that have relegated personal style to an afterthought. The approach has also made fashion’s rampant consumerism problem worse, suggesting that, in order to be stylish, people need to constantly change their wardrobes to meet TikTok’s algorithm.
Saint Laurent’s latest show invited us all to say goodbye to that.
On Tuesday, the house — currently led by creative director Anthony Vaccarello — unveiled a spring 2023 collection that relied heavily on a capsule wardrobe of just a few essentials: a maxi dress, a floor-length coat, gold accessories, a halter top, and trousers. The lineup began with an assortment of sheer dresses, paired with leather double-breasted coats, and continued with draped versions that featured elegant hoods, as well as a top-and-trouser combo with a wool coat. Throughout the 49-piece collection, Vaccarello exemplified the art of mix-and-match, proposing that capsule wardrobes are the future of fashion.
Personal uniforms and capsule closets have long had a stronghold in fashion, but it’s become difficult to commit to the “fewer, better things” mantra, thanks to the ubiquity of fast fashion brands and the accelerated trend cycle. It’s not just because of FOMO or the trend roulette encouraged by TikTok: The style-minded have often relied heavily on newness rather than everlasting. Saint Laurent’s lineup is not necessarily innovative — we’ve all seen floor-length coats, sheer dresses, and well-fitted trousers before — but what’s refreshing is to see a designer provide its customers (and even those without a YSL-level budget) the space and resources to continually build their wardrobe with the pieces they already have.
Take, for example, a hooded dress that appeared in a wide range of colors and was styled solo, as well as with a leather coat. Then, there’s the hooded long-sleeve tops that were paired with trousers for a night-out look and later with a wool coat and belt for a more office-ready outfit. Even the eveningwear, which Vaccarello displayed in the form of sheer, ruffled skirts and monochrome pantsuits, remained easy to mix with the other pieces, as well as the ‘80s-inspired shoulder pads on leather coats that have proven to be a classic decades later.
As trends become even trendier and fashion holds onto its “in or out” mentality, capsule closets serve to keep one’s personal style intact, no matter what that looks like. Maybe trying it the Saint Laurent way isn’t a bad idea.
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The OG fashion capital opened its streets to fashion week on Monday, welcoming some of the world’s biggest designers, from Saint Laurent and Loewe to Miu Miu and Stella McCartney. Although weather conditions have been less than favorable of late — read: rain, wind and below-50-degree temperatures — guests have remained dedicated to their fashion week uniforms, providing us with some of the best street style inspiration yet.
In midi skirts and baggy jeans, bright hues or head-to-toe black (the Parisian way, of course), we’ve rounded up our favorite looks captured throughout Paris Fashion Week spring 2023. Scroll on for your reminder that chilly autumn weather doesn’t mean slacking on style. Your new-season outfit inspiration awaits.
There comes a time when fashion’s rapid trend cycle starts to lose its appeal. The constant influx of new, new, new (shorter hemlines! trending colors! more prints!) is not only difficult to keep up with but also unsustainable for the planet. Enter: a capsule wardrobe made up of easy-to-style, versatile pieces that you can mix and match depending on the season.
“My first personal application of a capsule wardrobe was for travel,” says stylist and creative consultant Rachael Wang. Having to curate a carry-on suitcase worth of vacation looks meant that each piece had to work with the rest. “Before I knew it, this ethos had seeped into my everyday wardrobe. In a way, this rigorous way of curating a wardrobe has helped me to hone the essence of my personal style and to develop more confidence in what I love.”
Now, before buying anything new (she prefers to shop secondhand when possible), Wangs asks herself a series of questions: “Do I already own something similar that can be updated through tailoring or customization to satiate the desire for newness? Do I need this or do I want this? If I need the item, what will its primary function be? … If I want the item, is there a version of the item that feels both lust-worthy to me but also timeless?”
In an effort to meet the needs of more considered consumers like Wang, many brands are also adapting the way they approach the concept. For example, in September, Everlane released The Power of 10, a capsule collection featuring fall staples ranging from button-downs to trench coats and sweaters.
“The majority of people only wear 10% of their wardrobe,” says Shu Hung, brand creative director at Everlane, of the inspiration behind the line. “When designing this collection, it was important for us to create versatile essentials that our customers would gravitate towards season after season. We tried to make things that were comfortable to wear, easy to style, and easy to care for.”
But, all of this is not to suggest that the solution is to get rid of every quirky or unusual piece you currently own in favor of a newly purchased wardrobe of all neutrals. “Take stock of the colors and silhouettes of pieces you love and remember them when you go to buy something new,” suggests Wang. When it comes to cleaning out her wardrobe, Mathilde Mader, design creative director at Everlane, starts by pulling out pieces she hasn’t worn in over a year. “Before I pass it on, I will also look to see if I can upcycle it in some way — cutting a new length to a pant or jacket hem, or adding embroidery or patches to my denim,” she says.
Ahead, find more expert-recommended essentials to consider as you hone in on your fall capsule closet list.
Turtleneck Sweater
“When dressing for fall, layers are key! One of my personal favorites is a turtleneck sweater,” says Mader, which she suggests styling back to a trouser or favorite pair of jeans. A sweater can also easily be dressed up if layered over a slip dress and finished with a belt and heels.
Classic Coat
Wang says that the key to building a capsule wardrobe is to be specific to your lifestyle. “I love coats, for example, and consider them the foundation of my wardrobe,” she explains. “But if you live in a climate where a coat is unnecessary, then this obviously wouldn’t be a key piece for you.” In that case, it might be a cozy outer layer like a long cardigan or a duster.
Oversized Button-Down
“I love an oversized button-up shirt,” says Hung. “[It’s]something easy that I can wear from [a work] meeting to photoshoot and back again.” Look for a style that is both relaxed and polished, with a loose fit and sharp tailoring that’s more versatile than a tightly fitted one. White is a classic, but you can also opt for a striped iteration to add texture and color to your wardrobe.
Neutral Sneakers
Minimalist sneakers are classic, comfortable, and ultimately seasonless. Opt for a neutral trainer with an interesting aesthetic touch like a contrasting color or cool design detail.
Relaxed Trousers
Trousers have long served as a staple of the work uniform, but these days, they work just as well for weekend brunch or even Friday-night drinks. There are two factors to keep in mind here. First is fit — you want a pair of trousers that are high-waisted and loose through the leg. Second is how you style them. A blazer or button-down are obvious choices in a more corporate setting, but a silky tank or cropped tee will make slacks feel more relaxed.
Ankle Boots
From season to season, certain details may change — the toe shape, the thickness of the heel, or detailing (things that are ultimately up to your own preference and comfort) — but a slick ankle boot, that can take you from errands to a night out, is the perfect footwear for dressing up your fall look.
Slip Dress
A slip dress doesn’t deserve to be put away come fall. Think of it as the ideal styling piece — worn under a chunky sweater, button-down, or blazer; layered over a T-shirt, belted; and even worn over pants.
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Within the category of fashion trends, handbags are the most subtle. Unlike a flashy fad like leather harnesses or visible thongs, purse styles tend to go through a slower cycle of change— a new color here, refreshed hardware there. But this is a good thing! You carry your work bag alongside different looks all week long, thus versatility is essential. For the fall season, the best handbag trends lean into this idea, with fresh takes on staple styles that will complement your existing wardrobe.
That’s not to say that there isn’t plenty to get excited about. On the festive circuit, the fall 2022 runways saw metallic and sparkling bags shimmer down the runway, doubling down on the Roaring Twenties aesthetic that emerged post-pandemic. For texture, shearling reigned supreme with cozy carryalls that will feel especially soft to the touch on those colder days. Hardware also got attention in the form of chunky chain links that could pass for jewelry And, of course, timeless silhouettes such as the saddle, tote, and bucket were given the stamp of approval and zhuzhed up with new colorways and materials.
Ahead, seven fall handbag trends to shop now.
Bucket Bags
The popularity of the bucket silhouette has ebbed and flowed over the years, perhaps peaking in early 2013 with Mansur Gavriel’s introduction of its now-iconic drawstring bucket bag. Currently, brands like Altuzarra, Ulla Johnson, and Louis Vuitton are all reviving this beloved style for fall, with sleek updates like leather piping and fun colors. We’re especially loving the slimmed-down versions that have enough room to hold your essentials but are small enough to transition to the evening hours.
Shearling Bags
This fall, broaden your scope of handbag materials from the typical leather (faux or real) to something fuzzy and textural. On the runways, shearling was ubiquitous with examples seen at heritage houses like Chanel and buzzy labels such as Jacquemus. And while a shearling handbag might feel like a bold statement, these cozy carryalls come in down-to-earth silhouettes, like the baguette shape or saddle style. What’s more, when the weather becomes nippy, you can tuck them under your arm for some added warmth.
Metallic Bags
The pandemic has spurred trends that run the gamut of personal style. On one side of the spectrum, you have things like house dresses and sweatpants-as-real-pants, while on the other end you have a full embrace of sexy dressing and glitzy materials. The latter has felt reminiscent of The Roaring Twenties and sparked a dialogue about the return of this iconic era in fashion. Translate this festive sentiment to your handbag collection with one of the numerous sparkly bags of the season.
Chunky Chain Link Bags
Hardware can make or break a bag, which is why the emphasis on bold, chunky chain links on the fall runways felt like a daring move for the season. Thankfully, the end result is refreshing and chic, as evidenced by designers like Stella McCartney who incorporated the look on monochrome pastel satchels. Or at Loewe, where designer Jonathan Anderson accentuated a bright orange top-handle bag with a matching chunky chain. But whether you want something bright and bold or something crafted in a neutral palette, there’s something for all types this season—with an exaggerated chain as the centerpiece.
Totes
As we ease into the office after two years (!) of working from home, you might be finding yourself short on work totes that can hold your 9-5 essentials. And though in the past, a structured satchel might have felt like the most polished direction, the current mood calls for something softer and more flexible like a roomy tote. Brands like The Row reignited our love for a large, functional bag.
Slouchy Shoulder Bags
The slouchy silhouette is decidedly alive and well. For fall, this relaxed 70s-inspired style finds its footing in earth-toned colors and suede textures. Among the more exciting examples of this is found at Khaite with the brand’s covetable moon-shaped shoulder bag. Wear yours with a chunky knit and trousers for an effortless approach to autumnal style.
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While nap dresses reigns Hill House Home in the warmer months, there is a new line designed to take over for fall and winter. Yes, if you heard the rumors, they’re true: Hill House Home just launched an outerwear collection. Now, you can frolic down the street while the leaves fall in gemstone quilted coats and gorgeous floral-print puffer jackets.
We’re telling you the lavish quilted coats are perfect for creating flawless transitional outfits. They’re not too heavy or too thin; they’re just right. They also come in two lengths: a shorter version and one that falls midcalf. You’ll want to save the puffer jackets for brisk winter days and weekend ski trips. You might think, how can these adorable jackets keep me warm in the frigid weather? Cast your worries aside: The outer part of the jacket is crafted from windproof and water-resistant recycled polyester, while the inside is made with cushy PrimaLoft Black Thermoplume, a cruelty-free alternative to down feathers.
The Quilt Coat has all the luxe details — did I mention it exudes Bridgerton vibes? First, it’s made from a shiny dark-green satin. Next, the chic Peter Pan collar and wide sleeves make a modest statement along with the sparkling jeweled buttons, which complete the piece.
Luckily, if you love the Quilt Coat but are looking for a longer length, the Duvet version is here to save the day. While it has all the same eye-catching details as the Quilt Coat, it comes in a dreamy lilac shade instead of deep emerald, and it has a vent pleat in the back. The A-line coat is definitely one to keep in your lineup for dressier occasions this autumn.
Stop, stare, and revel in Hill House Home’s reversible puffer jackets. There are three hues: sky blue, blush pink, and a timeless navy. The best part is one side has a micro floral print, while the other is one-tone — basically two jackets in one. (The pink version also has the unique characteristic of ruffled shoulders like the brand’s famous Ellie Nap Dress.)
The practical, high-performance puffer has all sorts of quirks, making it worth the $375 investment. Each one features a hood, a secret inside pocket, outer pockets with zippers, and adjustable elastic cords that you can cinch at the waist. There’s also a high-low style for extra coverage on the back, which is perfect, as the jackets are designed for cold-weather activities like skiing and snowboarding.
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