Monday, June 27, 2022

Marimekko’s Latest Collaboration Is Wearable Art

The summer is prime time to create a capsule wardrobe full of easy-to-wear pieces. And Finnish design house Marimekko’s latest collaboration puts a fun spin on versatile summer basics

On Monday, the print- and-color forward brand announced its partnership with Virginie Hucher, featuring the French artist’s works, which are known for their fluid, abstract silhouettes and bold colors. 

“My first impression when I saw Virginie’s work was that it is super minimal, architectural, graphic, but also very tactile. I was drawn to both the incredible shapes and the perfectly imperfect finishes of her pieces,” says Rebekka Bay, creative director at Marimekko, via press release. “Because the artworks themselves have so much shape, we decided to construct the dresses around the artworks instead.”

The result includes three A-line dresses and a top-and-skirt set in white, blue, brown, and red hues from Hucher’s artworks. “I think that fashion designers and artists alike have always been about artistic expression, and fashion acts as an important tool, it’s a universal language that gives us the opportunity to reveal our identities,” says Hucher. 

This collaboration comes on the heels of Marimekko’s partnership with American brand Mansur Gavriel that resulted in a picnic-ready assortment of strawberry-printed handbags. The brand also recently partnered with Adidas, releasing a flower-printed model of the sportswear giant’s Ultraboost sneakers, as well as gym-ready fits in Marimekko’s bold hues. 

Retailing from $310 to $395, the Marimekko x Virginie Hucher collaboration is now available at marimekko.com

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Why You Won’t See Rainbows In This Gender-Affirming Brand’s Pride Launch

When the founders of Urbody — a brand making affirming active- and underwear for trans, nonbinary, and gender non-conforming people — set out to create their Active collection in time for a Pride Month launch, they knew one thing it wouldn’t include: rainbows.

“Rainbows can be really wonderful,” says Mere Abrams, Urbody co-founder and licensed social worker, “but there’s a time and a place for that.” 

As more and more corporations are using the mainstream acceptance of LGBTQ identities as a marketing opportunity — peddling all manner of spangled paraphernalia during the month of June, while failing to use their power to meaningfully address the community’s needs, and even actively supporting anti-LGBTQ legislative efforts — what has once been a bright symbol of the diversity and unity of the community has turned into rainbow capitalism. “It can [come off as] outwardly presenting: ‘We love the queer community,’ but not necessarily doing that work,” says Abrams. “Particularly in June, it can be a triggering symbol.”

Urbody launched in 2021 after Abrams was unable to find affirming underwear as a transmasculine nonbinary person. Feeling unseen by the fashion industry’s often-restrictive body norms, they launched the initial seven-piece line with co-founder, Anna Graham Thorpe, which included a pair of briefs designed to securely hold a packer and leggings featuring a compressive built-in thong to make tucking easier. 

“Since the inception of Urbody, Mere and I never wanted to slap rainbows on things,” confirms Graham Thorpe. “We wanted to give people in our community essentials and staples.”   

The Active collection is a continuation of Urbody’s efforts to create change in an industry rooted in binary gender and body norms. The launch includes two different styles of compression tops, as well as bike shorts, that come with and without the same built-in thong included in their leggings, and a breathable skort. The compression sports top and skort come in two colors that are also new to the Urbody palette: cherry, and jade. 

Considering the violence trans, nonbinary, and gender non-conforming people continue to face from our culture and legislature, something as simple as underwear may not be at the forefront of the conversation. But in the face of rampant discrimination against trans people, especially transfeminine people, in sports, Abrams says Urbody “really wanted to create a collection that affirmed folks’ identity, gender, and place in the world and in athletics.” 

All of the garments went through a hands-on, community-based production process with Abrams, Graham Thorpe, and the designers soliciting input from queer people of all sizes and gender identities — as opposed to the traditional process of using fit models.

This was important because garment factories often operate using gendered templates. When Urbody first sent designs for leggings with a built-in thong, intended for people with penises, the samples they received in return made it clear that the factory had designed the garment with its “women’s clothing” template in mind. “They’re thinking ‘thong,’ and making assumptions,” Abrams recalls. “We have to slow down, [think] about size, body, and gender diversity, [and] break down assumptions.”

Graham Thorpe confirms that “most factories aren’t dealing with brands like ours”: “A lot of inclusivity comes down to […] transparency [and] educating our factories and design teams about the goal and functionality of the product.” 

For trans people, many of whom struggle to find undergarments and activewear that are affirming, affordable, and safe, these seemingly basic resources can be crucial, down to the key details like discreet packaging and health- and inclusivity-informed design.

One example? Some types of compression tops, designed for the purpose of binding breasts to make the chest appear flatter, can be dangerous to wear for too long. “For some people,” Abrams says, “a chest binder that flattens you as much as possible is necessary for dysphoria. But you can only do that for so long.” Urbody’s compression tops are designed to be worn all day long, providing affirmation without presenting a health risk. One customer, Abrams says, was relieved to find they could sleep in their compression top.

Abrams knows the importance of these considerations firsthand. They had always gravitated toward underwear designed for men, but had found the fit to be disappointing — the garments simply weren’t made to fit a body with more prominent hips or without a penis. The first time they put on Urbody’s compression shorts, they say, they had “this full-body feeling I’d never experienced before, of putting on underwear and having it feel good. Looking in a mirror and having it look the way I want and need it to.” The feeling was similar to how they felt after gender-affirming top surgery: “That thing that used to trigger dysphoria, it’s just not there anymore.”

While receiving affirming medical treatment can be a challenge for many trans people, buying a new pair of underwear may be a more accessible step. 

“Particularly this month,” says Abrams, “we put extra intention into the actionable things that can make people feel good, versus performative things that look flashy and cool. At the end of the day, what’s important to us is whether our community is being served appropriately.” 

Shop Urbody’s Active collection now.

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5 Ways To Wear The Shoe Trend That’ll Be Everywhere This Summer

The arrival of summer always brings the sudden urge to throw our laptops and run outside, spending as much of our free time in the sun as possible. Even the indoorsiest among us would be so inclined to venture outdoors, to be up for anything that doesn’t involve being confined to the walls of their homes.

But when it comes to any type of outdoor activity, choosing the right shoe is crucial — and in most situations, a towering platform or heeled mule just won’t do. Enter the “dad sandal,” a reliable standby for all things outdoorsy that’s not only practical, but undeniably comfortable. They boast all the appeal of the chunky, “ugly-cute” styles that have had a stronghold on footwear trends over the last few years, all while offering the support you (and your arches) need.

We admit: Styling "dad sandals" — with their busy prints and in-your-face colors and countless straps — can seem intimidating at first. But this season’s iterations lean more chic than “dad." See: Chaco's summer lineup. That's why we plucked five styles and pieced together cute-but-practical outfits for whatever your summer plans may be, whether that involves some light walking or, well, climbing up the side of a mountain.

Consider this your guide on how to seamlessly integrate dad sandals into all of your outdoorsy summer ‘fits.

Hitting the trails

A dad sandal is a less clunky (and sweaty) alternative to a classic hiking boot, making them a solid choice for summer hikes. These boast adjustable straps to ensure the most secure fit, while the supportive sole will keep your feet in tip-top condition no matter how many miles you trek. And while this style is peak dad, the print makes for a trendy addition to your hiking ensemble: Pair with a sleek workout set, a bold fannypack to hold your essentials, and don’t forget to bring a packable, waterproof jacket — you never know when you might run into sudden rainy weather.

Chaco Women's Z/1 Classic, $, available at Chaco

Girlfriend Collective Midnight Dylan Tank Bra, $, available at Girlfriend Collective

Girlfriend Collective Midnight Compressive High-Rise Legging, $, available at Girlfriend Collective

Mango Water-Repellant Jacket, $, available at Mango

Baboon To The Moon Fannypack, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Zara Basic Twill Cap, $, available at Zara

Exploring a new city

When checking a new city off of your bucket list, you’re bound to do a serious amount of walking. Paired with sweltering summer temps, things are likely to get sweaty, too — may we suggest a breezy linen set that’ll keep you nice and cool? Footwear-wise, we recommend having some fun in the print department, especially if the rest of your ‘fit is neutral. Equipped with an extra-cushy sole, these neon sandals will keep sore feet at bay as you exceed your usual step count. Throw in some chic accessories, and you have yourself a look that’ll seamlessly take you from sightseeing to dinner.

Chaco Women's Mega Z/Cloud, $, available at Chaco

COS Regular-Fit Linen Shirt, $, available at COS

COS Elasticated Linen Shorts, $, available at COS

Staud Acute Shoulder Bag, $, available at Staud

Crap Eyewear The Full Bloom, $, available at Crap Eyewear

Missoma Squiggle Wavy Large Hoop Earrings, $, available at Missoma

Vacationing by the beach

If your summer plans entail vacationing in a far-off, tropical destination, then chances are, you’ll be spending most of your time at the beach (or poolside…or both). That said, a lightweight slide you can easily kick off is a key item to add to your packing list. A neutral-hued style will match anything and everything you squeeze into your suitcase, including a printed bikini or a vibrant coverup. This pair features a soft sole and arch support, perfect for a shoreside stroll after a quick dip.

Chaco Women's Chillos Slide, $, available at Chaco

Faithfull the Brand Marzia Printed Recycled Triangle Bikini, $, available at Net-A-Porter

Mango Linen Oversize Shirt, $, available at Mango

Indy Ice Cube, $, available at Indy

Bagtazo Sister Sun Hat, $, available at Bagtazo

AAKS Delma Raffia Tote, $, available at Nordstrom

Spending the weekend camping — or glamping

Camping plans? Whether you’re roughing it out in the woods or opting for a cushier glamping experience, a chunky all-terrain sandal with excellent grip is imperative for exploring your surroundings. Pair with comfy clothing made for moving, a backpack that’ll hold all your gear, and a hat for extra sun protection. Don’t forget to pack something warm and cozy for nighttime — it’s bound to get chilly, even around the campfire. And if you really want to lean into the dad style trend, try throwing some soft, fuzzy socks into the mix.

Chaco Women's Lowdown Sandal, $, available at Chaco

Everlane The Seamless Bike Short, $, available at Everlane

Everlane The Track Jogger, $, available at Everlane

& Other Stories Boxy Pile Jacket, $, available at & Other Stories

The North Face Borealis Backpack, $, available at The North Face

Urban Outfitters Safari Pocket Bucket Hat, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Picnicking in the park

Whether you’re posting up in an urban oasis or somewhere with rougher ground (a national park, perhaps?) picnic dressing should prioritize comfort as much as style, especially when it comes to your shoes. A dad sandal with a lugged outsole will prevent you from slipping should you encounter some mud, while a cushioned sole will keep your feet happy as you hunt for the ideal spot to set up shop. Pair yours with a breezy sundress, a tote (for carrying snacks, of course), and some summery accessories, and you’ll have yourself the perfect picnic ensemble — one that’s cute and practical.

Chaco Women's Z/Cloud 2, $, available at Chaco

Staud Landry Dress, $, available at Staud

Éliou Keena Cultured Freshwater Pearl Beaded Necklace, $, available at Nordstrom

JW PEI Shea Checkerboard Knitted Tote Bag, $, available at JW PEI

Emi Jay Big Effing Claw Clip, $, available at Emi-Jay

Bonnie Clyde UFO, $, available at Bonnie Clyde

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