Thursday, September 23, 2021

Which Latinx People Get To ‘Make It’ In Fashion?

Despite being obsessed with fashion designers at an early age,  I was already in my late teens when I finally learned Carolina Herrera was Venezuelan. Growing up in Puerto Rico, I had my doubts about whether Herrera was even from Latin America. Her last name was a good indicator that she was, but it somehow didn’t convince me. I asked my mom — one of her biggest fans — but she shrugged off the question with a simple “I’m not sure.” Looking back, it’s clear to me that I wasn’t really interested in judging Carolina Herrera’s Latinx bona fides. What I wanted was to reassure myself that there were other people from Latin America that could also make it to the upper echelons of fashion; people who rolled their R’s just like me. 

But, Herrera’s Venezuelan heritage was hardly ever mentioned. The same was true for Oscar de la Renta and Isabel Toledo. They were all referred to as “American;” their country of origin and heritage were watered down to a generalized idea that American fashion designers sometimes spoke with an accent or had Spanish last names. But inside the Costume Institute’s latest exhibition “In America: A Lexicon Of Fashion,” there are signs that things might be taking a turn for a more inclusive and diverse representation of Latin American and Latinx fashion designers.

This year’s exhibition — the first of a two-part show to be continued in May 2022 — is rooted in a quote by Rev. Jesse Jackson: “America is more like a quilt — many patches, many pieces, many colors, many sizes, all woven and held together by a common thread.” The exhibition was dreamed up by the Costume Institute’s head curator Andrew Bolton, and features a group of Latin American designers who hail from Venezuela (Herrera), the Dominican Republic (Oscar de la Renta), and Cuba (Isabel Toledo and Narciso Rodriguez). They’re accompanied by other emerging Latinx designers like Mexican-American Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport, Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst, and Mexican Raul Solís of LRS. 

Walking through the exhibition, I thought about Jackson’s quote because, just like the United States as a whole, the Latin American and Latinx communities are also composed of many patches, pieces, colors, and sizes. But you wouldn’t know it if you looked at how they’re perceived by the fashion industry despite the many decades in which Latinx designers have been power players. 

“Historically, some of our most venerable labels were founded by Latinos,” says Erik Maza, senior fashion features director of Town & Country, who emigrated from Cuba in 1998. “What the industry has to ask itself is, ‘are these examples the exception to the rule? Are there enough of us, and do we have a seat at the table?’” While there is no question that Latin American designers have earned a rightful place in the U.S. fashion industry, who has been granted a key inside tells another story about American values. 

Take, for example, Carolina Herrera. While the designer may speak with an accent, she has always been among New York’s wealthy elites. She grew up in socialite circles in her native Caracas, and later married a direct descendant of Spanish royalty. In 1965, she got a job as a publicist for Italian fashion designer Emilio Pucci, who was a close family friend, eventually becoming well known for her own glamorous style. This was part of what inspired former Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland to encourage Herrera to become a designer herself. She eventually debuted her first collection at the exclusive, members-only Metropolitan Club in Manhattan, and found great success afterward. The kind of access that Herrera had is worlds apart from the reality of poor and working-class people, who are largely Black and Indigenous, in Latin America and Latinx communities in the United States. 

“The real question is, who gets represented under Latinidad, and that’s something that we are still deconstructing,” says Ecuadorian-American PR and marketing consultant Aldo Araujo, who currently works with the Council of Fashion Designers of America. At a time when the Latinx community in the United States is composed of more than 60 million people, Araujo is demanding and working toward a more accurate representation that’s on par with the racial, economic, and political diversity within these communities. Araujo has worked to promote Latinx talent within the industry, including a series of profiles on designers, models, and stylists on the nonprofit’s site, featuring models Dilone and Jillian Mercado, stylist Mellany Sánchez, and designer Raúl Solís. 

Maza says that this type of work is crucial to opening more doors: “As Latinos, and I’m including myself here, we could also do a better job of banding together to speak up for our causes and promote, mentor, and employ the staggering pool of undiscovered Latinx talent out there.” 

This effort also involves the media. Fashion and beauty media mastheads are slowly diversifying, with Latinx editors and writers like Nina García at Elle magazine, Mario Abad at Paper magazine, Ana Colón at Fashionista, Sandra E. García at The New York Times, Karla Martínez de Salas at Vogue México, and Maza at Town & Country. Their efforts have resulted in storytelling that highlights the diversity among Latinx talent, as well as providing a platform for conversations around what it even means to be Latinx. 

Some are more successful than others. Just recently, García, who is the editor in chief at Elle, released the magazine’s  first-ever Latinx issue cover featuring Selena Gomez (Disclosure: I wrote a piece for this issue, and had no involvement with the cover story.) While Gomez is Mexican-American, the cover’s credits — from fashion and makeup to photography and styling — were filled with non-Latinx names; Chanel was the most prominent brand featured, and Gomez was styled to resemble Marilyn Monroe. Some took the cover as a missed opportunity. 

“While I celebrate the fact that Elle finally came out with an issue dedicated to the community, and I’m genuinely happy for Gomez, it does feel a bit same ol’, same ol’ for me,” wrote journalist Johanna Ferreira on POPSUGAR. “How does this cover make other Latinx communities feel seen? It doesn’t.”

It’s mishaps like these that contributes to the notion that the fashion industry considers the Latinx community a monolith because it erases the fact that this term — with its many flawed definitions — comes from multilingual, multiracial, multiethnic communities that have long fought to avoid being reduced to one dimension. And while today’s industry is welcoming a wider set of Latinx designers, it still suffers from staggering anti-Blackness. 

In the Costume Institute’s exhibition, it’s clear that some Latinx designers are no longer willing to stay silent on issues that affect non-elites. One of the most strikingly-displayed garments in the show is an American flag ensemble designed by Gypsy Sport, which is later followed by a red-and-white striped dress by Raul Solis of LRS emblazoned with slogans like “No Justice, No Peace.” (Some notable absences from the lineup include Calvin Klein’s senior vice president of design Willy Chavarría, whose most recent collection was inspired by delivery workers and has long embedded his Mexican-American heritage into the collections for his eponymous label.)

These two designs showcase a social and political consciousness that past Latin American designers have stayed away from, preferring to dress the wealthy in traditionally conservative silhouettes with hefty price tags. Later, audiences get a glimpse of Gabriela Hearst’s work: an artisanal ruana — a poncho-style wrap from the Colombian Andes — done in collaboration with women-led collective Manos del Uruguay. While Hearst, who is now the creative director of Celine, has chosen to credit the artisans behind her work, many of her peers don’t. And when it comes to Latinx representation in U.S. fashion, it’s often the artisans and garment workers behind the scenes, many of whom are undocumented or from Indigenous communities, who are missing from the credits. 

Take, for example, the Carolina Herrera Resort 2020 collection by Wes Gordon, which used traditional Mexican sarapes — a blanket-like shawl originating in Mexico — as well as embroidery techniques birthed by Indigenous communities in the country, but failed to identify and credit the source of these techniques and design traditions. Titled “Latin Holiday,” the collection was even criticized by Mexico’s secretary of culture through a letter in El País that asked the house to credit their people. 

But, the Costume Institute’s Bolton made the choice to include and credit the Manos del Uruguay dress. He also opted to highlight the countries of origin of immigrant designers. This exhibit was one of the first times I saw Herrera labeled as Venezuelan and Toledo as Cuban. This tiny detail makes all the difference. Latinx representation is not perfect, but it still matters to understand where we come from, who we are, and who is still missing from the great Latin American quilt — and to know that even while rolling our R’s, or lacking family connections, a career in American fashion is possible. 

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We Scoured The Internet For The Best White Button-Downs

We've read that the late, great Karl Lagerfeld owned over 1,000 of his now-iconic Hilditch & Key white button-down shirts. Can you blame him? Once you find a white button-down that fits your body and the needs of your wardrobe, you're committed for life. The beauty of this wardrobe staple is how it can elevate the most quotidian of outfits, from sweatpants (yes!) to jeans (obviously) to evening wear (definitely). The shirt's status as an icon of professionalism and formality is both upheld by corporate culture the world over, and subverted by countless artists, designers, and other assorted "downtown types" (you know who you are).

Of course, to optimize this wardrobe staple for every possible outfit, the fit and functionality of your white button-down has got to be spot-on, so we've scoured the internet for some of the best white button-down shirts for women, including the coolest styles and hard-to-find fits so that you can look extra put-together without pinching, gapping, or exposing too much (or too little) skin. And as always, we've included only the examples that have earned serious accolades from vocal shoppers.

Welcome to Hype Machine, our hit-list of the top reviewed products across the web — according to a crowd of die-hard shoppers. Call this your 4-star-and-up only club, with entry granted by our devoted-to-the-goods shop editors.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

J.Crew Classic Fit Cozy Gauze Shirt


The Best Classic White Button-Down
As far as classic white button-downs go, J.Crew knows a thing or two; the preppy-cool brand has been crafting crisp oxford shirts since the 1940s. And, this cozy cotton-gauze style is no exception to its unprecedented tailoring excellence. Reviewers call it "the perfect everyday shirt" that feels like "being wrapped in a soft cloud."

The Hype: 4.4 out of 5 stars, 55 reviews on J.Crew

What They're Saying: "I have to add my voice to all the others saying this is the best shirt ever. I bought it in white and black (the black is slightly faded, i.e. not jet-black). Comfy and flattering. Perfect cozy shirt for warm weather, or as a coverup for hot sun. I love the long lean silhouette — and the fit and drape are beautiful. And, it is sexy despite being totally modest. A magician designed this!"

J.Crew Classic-fit cozy gauze shirt, $, available at J.Crew

Treasure & Bond Drapey Classic Shirt


The Best Drapey White Button-Down
One of the cooler ways to wear your white button-down is with the slightest hint of it not actually belonging to you. While this is descended from a heteronormative trope that we have most certainly evolved beyond, there remains an air of insouciance in sporting a dress shirt that's ever-so-slightly oversized. We think that's why Treasure & Bond's Drapey Classic Shirt has such a rabid fanbase.

The Hype: 4 out of 5 stars, 128 reviews on Nordstrom

What They're Saying: "So beautiful. I've been working hard on making my capsule/classic wardrobe. I have a shopping list that stays in my purse so that I can find the perfect piece that will last for years. This shirt is so divine. It feels incredible against my skin. The drapey aspect of the shirt flatters my bigger chest and apple body. It's a little sheer, but I sized up so that it flows. I may wear a shirt underneath but I may not."

Treasure & Bond Drapey Classic Shirt, $, available at Nordstrom

Everlane The Relaxed Linen Shirt


The Best Linen White Button-Down
If you sweat or get hot easily (but still need to look presentable), get yourself a white button-down in the naturally cooling fabric of linen.

The Hype: 4.61 out of 5 stars and 419 reviews on Everlane

What They're Saying: "This is reasonably stiff linen that still fits, falls, and breathes nicely. I live in the Southern US, and sweat still rolls down your back (it would even if you were naked), but you don’t feel overheated or swampy. It’s linen so you get the (I think) charming wrinkles of natural fabric, and it tucks in well. This is designed to bring — and achieves — the effortlessly cool, confident look whether it’s tucked, untucked, or half-tucked. Super love this one."

Everlane The Linen Relaxed Shirt, $, available at Everlane

Madewell White Cotton Courier Shirt


The Best Short-Sleeve White Button-Down
Oftentimes, white button-downs are reserved for formal environments. This boxy, short-sleeved version is a refreshing antidote to the fitted look. Plus, as plenty of reviewers mentioned, this top isn't see-through, which means you can wear it with confidence in professional workplaces.

The Hype: 4.1 out of 5 stars and 243 reviews on Madewell

What They're Saying: "I have always loved Madewell's courier shirts. They work super well for tiny people, especially those with small frames and short torsos. I particularly like this one because it is so essential to have a nice white shirt. It's loose enough that it doesn't look like a waitress shirt but still is designed for small shoulders so it doesn't look like you are a 5-year-old dressing up.
Another important thing about this particular shirt is that it is super thick. No see-through here. I teach so it's important that my professional shirts don't allow my bra to be seen. I love this shirt and I'm pretty sure my students think I live in it."


Madewell White Cotton Courier Shirt, $, available at Madewell

Amazon Essentials Classic-Fit Button-Down Poplin Shirt


Best Amazon White Button-Down
Over 6,000 Amazon reviewers rave about this very affordable button-down's classic tailoring, comfortable fit, and wrinkle resistance.

The Hype: 4.3 out of 5 stars and 6,219 reviews on Amazon

What They’re Saying: "I have both the Amazon Essentials classic fit button-down Oxford and the Amazon Essentials classic fit button-down poplin shirts. I absolutely love both. This shirt, the poplin, is lighter weight and wrinkles much less straight from the dryer. Both shirts have a men's style fit, with no darts to nip in the waist. The length is just below the bottom. The cuff is crisp and has a double button to make turning the cuff once or twice secure and tidy. This style is best for layering, as it is light and cool. The black gingham is pure, classic preppy. I rarely buy items before they go on sale, but I wanted this pattern and would pay full price again. Perfect."

Amazon Essentials Classic-Fit Long Sleeve Button Down Poplin Shirt, $, available at Amazon

H&M White Cotton Shirt


The Best Oversized White Button-Down
This 100%-cotton style features a straight-cut silhouette with dropped shoulders, a double-layered yoke, slightly front-facing shoulder seams, a box pleat, and a rounded hem with short side slits. Since it's oversized, many reviewers opted to size down for a more streamlined fit while others stuck with their normal sizes for more of a shirt-dress look.

The Hype: 4.2 out of 5 stars and 178 reviews on H&M

What They’re Saying: "Love love this shirt. In reading many of the reviews, most sized down. I decided to stay with my size and I’m glad I did. It is oversized but it’s just the right amount due to the fact that I have long arms and legs even though I’m 5’4 I look taller. The shirt is a little thin which is good during the summer months. Love the color and it compliments the split jeans that I paired them with...got so many compliments. I highly recommend buying."

H&M Cotton Shirt, $, available at H&M

Universal Thread Women's Raglan Long Sleeve Button-Down Shirt


The Best Relax-Fit White Button-Down
As previously stated, the classic white button-down will go with anything — especially when it's a style featuring a relaxed fit that's designed to look casually elegant. Best of all? This one's only $20.

The Hype: 4.4 out of 5 stars and 45 reviews on Target

What They’re Saying: "This shirt is perfect, soft, and very comfy. It replaces one that I had for several years that developed frays and holes in the sleeves because I wore it so much. This one is taking its place and I am so happy with it so far."

Universal Thread Women's Raglan Long Sleeve Button-Down Shirt, $, available at Target

Alex Mill Kit Shirt in Paper Poplin


The Best Peter Pan Collar White Button-Down
Talk about charming! This button-down has a cute peter pan collar, adorable sleeves that are slightly puffed, and a gathered detail at the cuffs and back. Super unique and non-boring to say the least.

The Hype: 4 out of 5 stars and 8 reviews on Alexmill

What They're Saying: "Reminds me of a French painter's shirt but more stylish. This is nicely oversized and comfortable. Goes with a lot of items already in my closet. Can be easily dressed up or down. Plan to purchase a couple more colors as it’s really hard to find a woman’s shirt that fits this nice with unique sleeves and collar. Like the buttons too."

Alex Mill Kit Shirt in Paper Poplin, $, available at Alex Mill

Quince Washable Stretch Silk Notch Collar Blouse


The Best Washable Silk White Button-Down
If you want a more elevated Oxford, a silky white button-down goes a long way. Put one on and you'll automatically look more luxe, more professional, and more evening-ready.

The Hype: 4.7 out of 5 stars and 119 reviews on Quince

What They're Saying: "I've spent years looking for a silk button-up. Cotton ones tend to be too stiff on my frame (petite with curves) but silk tops have always been towards the $100 range, which is unrealistic for me. My search for this top is how I found Quince in the first place. Really happy to fill out my wardrobe for work/events/daily life with this staple piece!"

Quince Washable Stretch Silk Notch Collar Blouse, $, available at Quince

Columbia Bahama L/S Shirt


The Best Sport/Outdoor Wear White Button-Down for Sporting
So, technically, this is a fishing shirt — but it also has a mind-boggling, perfect 5-star rating from 430+ reviews. Obviously, that warranted a closer look. As it turns out, this white button-down is perfect for all kinds of outdoor activities. With strategic cooling features and quick-dry fabrication, this is a great style for warmer days or for travel.

The Hype: 5 out of 5 stars and 434 reviews on Zappos

What They're Saying: "I absolutely love the cool comfort of these PFG shirts. Although I don't fish, I like the extra pockets for storage and the way you can roll up the sleeves and keep them up. They are also very cool in the hot sun and come in great colors. I now have 3 of them and will be on the hunt for a few more. I have to buy a size up as they are narrow through the bust so if you have C/D plus [bust size], then just go up a size."

Columbia Bahama™ L/S Shirt, $, available at Zappos

Express Lace Inset Button-Up Shirt


The Best White Lace Button-Down
After a while, white button-downs all tend to look the same, don't they? This one with gorgeous lace details dares to be unique while still staying on assignment.

The Hype: 4 out of 5 stars and 3 reviews on Express

What They're Saying: "Beautiful top. Fits perfectly. I love the feminine look, great quality. LOVE!!"

Express Lace Inset Button-Up Shirt, $, available at Express

Banana Republic Classic-Fit Poplin Shirt


The Best Fitted White Button-Down
Classic in all the ways and tailored for easy tuck-ins. This particular Oxford is also made from 100% cotton, which means you can just throw it in the wash for that back-to-crisp reset.

The Hype: 5 out of 5 stars and 7 reviews on Banana Republic

What They're Saying: "My go-to button-up shirt. The material feels so crisp and light on my skin. Love it."

Banana Republic Classic-Fit Poplin Shirt, $, available at Banana Republic

Riders by Lee Indigo Women's Easy Care Three-Quarter Sleeve Woven Shirt


The Plus-Size White Button-Down For Larger Busts
There's no greater fit enemy than the dreaded gap, which can be the scourge of any cup size in an ill-fitting button-down. That being said, it certainly plagues our bigger-busted sisters more regularly, so we sought out the most gap-reducing style tailored for larger chests.

The Hype: 4.3 out of 5 stars, 12,281 reviews on Amazon

What They're Saying: "I have owned several of these shirts. They fit great and are made for big-busted women. They have 2 buttons at the bustline so they don't gap. I just heard all of the amply endowed women of the world cheer! Yes!!! I have owned 2 white, 1 purple, and 1 peach of these blouses over the past 4 years. They are still the same great wonderful blouses!" - D. D., Amazon.com review

Lee Jeans Riders by Lee Indigo Bella Easy Care Woven Shirt, $, available at Amazon

Ann Taylor Petite Essential Shirt


The Best White Button-Down For Petites
A near-unanimous declaration of perfection is rare, but Ann Taylor's Petite Essential Shirt has an almost flawless rating, and we can see why. With a silky fabrication and a dipped neckline, this shirt has the sought-after ability to transition from day to night, and elevate pretty much any outfit.

The Hype: 4.7 out of 5 stars, 93 reviews on Ann Taylor

What They're Saying: "Lightweight and versatile!!!! I am normally a PS (5'1, 124, 36C) but went with the PM to ensure no gapping."

Ann Taylor Petite Essential Shirt, $, available at Ann Taylor

LYSSÉ Schiffer Shirt


The Best Tall-Fit White Button-Down
Whether you've got a longer torso or simply want to wear a tunic-length button-down, this menswear-inspired style from LYSSÉ offers the coverage you seek.

The Hype: 4.1 out of 5 stars and 54 reviews on Nordstrom

What They're Saying: "Love the material of this shirt and the longer length. It is a bit oversized, so I took an extra small even though I typically wear a small in button-down shirts to have enough room in the bust. The slight stretch makes this very comfy. Will wear this tucked in for a more formal look, but also will look great with leggings and even unbuttoned as a layering piece."

Lysse Schiffer Shirt, $, available at Nordstrom

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