Welcome to Aisle Style, a week-long series that features the most untraditionalwedding fashion trends, coolest bridal designers to know, and brides who walk to the beat of their own “Canon In D.” Buck the tradition and say I do to personal style — the aisle is yours.
For the past two years, bridal trends have reflected the scaled-back reality of our times, when Zoom weddings took over. From mini-dresses to bridal suits to slip dresses, bridal trends veered away from the traditional drama of wedding dress codes to match their micro-ceremonies. But it seems both brides and designers are ready to get the party started again; maximalism is back in style for spring 2023.
During New York Bridal Fashion Week, designers opted for voluminous and embellished gowns that featured long trains, dramatic veils, and tulle textiles that have become synonymous with the wedding industry. But, after two years of minimalism, expect even more opulence: Veils are now embellished with flowers and rhinestones; balloon skirts have replaced regular hemlines; and fringe details channeled the roaring ’20s. There were also striking bows from brands like Honor, Sophie Et Voilà , and Nadia Manjarrez, as well as tiered ruffles that add volume to any simple dress.
Ahead, take a look at some of the biggest trends sure to be present at next year’s weddings.
Bow Details
While bows have long been a wedding staple, their triumphant comeback is marked by their dramatic opulence and versatility. Looks reflect their traditional essence with modern takes, including detachable bow trains and hair accessories.
While fall 2022 bridal trends promised the return of high-low skirts, for spring, designers are betting on another 2010s staple: the balloon skirt. This technique exudes opulence and volume, making it one of the most dramatic bridal trends for next spring.
Fringe
When the party comes back to our lives, so do the dance-ready embellishments. As fringe has made its mark on the spring and fall 2022 runways, bridal designers have found ways to incorporate it into wedding gowns that range from mini-dresses to long frocks, featuring the ’20s-inspired embellishment.
Ruffles
While ruffles may be more party-ready than most wedding gowns, come next spring, the otherwise nighttime embellishment is walking down the aisle. Designers bet on voluminous ruffled sleeves, as well as tiered ruffles to channel this trend, ranging from minimalist gowns to romantic frocks.
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Over the last few seasons, Y2K fashion has made a comeback. From whale tails and trucker hats to micro mini skirts and bedazzled Bebe tops, every kitschy trend from the early aughts is making its way out of the archives and onto TikTok. But while some resurrected looks have received a warm welcome — who doesn’t love a baby tee? — others are setting off alarms and adamant nopes. Case in point: the return of the low-rise jean.
It started last year with models like Emily Ratajkowski and Bella Hadid, whose wardrobes have become time-travel machines to Y2K, be it via low-rise Von Dutch cargo pants or colorful candy rings. Then Game of Thrones actress Sophie Turner wore a pair of low-rise baggy jeans, which she paired with another ’00s relic — a going-out top — for date night with Joe Jonas. Pretty soon, the silhouette was making the rounds on TikTok, where the tag #LowRiseJeans now has over 131.5 million views.Still, many hoped the murmurings of a low-rise jean reunion tour would not prove prophetic. According to Stephanie Valponi, a stylist at Stitch Fix, that isn’t the case, though. “We’ve heard rumors over the last few years that low-rise jeans would be making an inevitable comeback, but now, it’s safe to say these are rumors no more,” Valponi tells Refinery29.
And there’s data to prove it. In May, thredUP, an online consignment and thrift store, reported a 50% increase in search for low-rise jeans, compared to the time frame between January and March of 2021. “Love it or hate it, there’s no denying that more people are trying out low-rise denim again,” Kesha Linder, a merchandiser at the online retailer, tells Refinery29.
Even so, many women who can recall the last heyday of low-rise jeans — when zippers regularly measured under three inches and necessitated embracing a peek-a-boo G-string (thus the whale tail trend) or spending a majority of the time hiking jeans up — aren’t excited. “I was in college in the early ‘00s, and I think I still have PTSD from my low-rise Juicy Couture sweats and my two-inch-zipper Diesel and Chip & Pepper jeans,” Pauline Montupet, 39, the founder of San Francisco-based clothing shop Le Point, tells Refinery29. “There was a constant feeling of being too big for low-rise pants,” she explains, adding that her stomach was never flat enough or her hip bones prominent enough, in comparison to celebrities (Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton, etc.) who would frequently wear the trend on the red carpet and at parties. “Only very thin people didn’t have a muffin top while wearing super low-rise jeans, so I constantly felt that I was in a losing battle between my body and low-rise denim.”
There’s an excerpt of Everybody (Else) in @InStyle! It’s about low-rise jeans, what we teach girls about their bodies, and trying to find your gay self amidst Bush-era politics and a hyper-sexualized pop culture that doesn’t really leave room you. https://t.co/xPAdkEoxjF
Others, like Rachel Jones, 33, the founder of underwear brand Jonesy, are happy to give the once-shunned silhouette another whirl. Despite her initial shock at finding out that the denim style was having a resurgence — “my hips haven’t seen the light of day since 2004,” she tells Refinery29 — Jones says she now sees the current version of low-rise jeans “fresh and exciting,” compared to the rotation of high-waisted pants she’s been wearing for a near-decade. Today’s low-rise jeans have evolved, and don’t feature ultra-tight fits, barely-there zippers, or thong-baring backsides like they once did. Instead, the trend is mostly made up of baggier jeans and trousers that naturally sit low on the waist — no tugging, sucking in, or awkward pretzeling of limbs required.
In fact, it was right after giving birth that Jones says she started eyeing denim with a lower rise. “My body was still changing, and I was drawn to a more undone look,” she says. “I didn’t want pants or jeans to suck me in. I wanted something low and loose, and a pair of vintage low-rise jeans from Etsy scratched that itch for me.”
This renaissance of low-rise jeans has yet to be picked up by a bevy of brands, but a select few have become frontrunners, creating a more comfortable version of the denim we love to hate. Los Angeles-based brand Miaou, which was founded as a denim brand but has since become known for its patterned corsets, is currently carrying baggier cargos and ‘00s-inspired low-rise styles. Ragged Priest, which makes “regular jeans for irregular people,” according to its website, is also dabbling in the throwback silhouette, as is Miss Sixty, the favored denim brand of celebrities in the aughts that has been making a comeback recently.
Martin concedes that the low-rise jeans of the past had their problems and hopes that with this second wave of popularity, brands will rework the style to better fit a larger range of women. “I’m eager to see how retailers will make them more modern and flattering for different body types,” she says.
If you’re thinking about taking the plunge, a few low-rise denim styles are hanging out below.
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One of my favorite childhood memories happened while I was wearing an outfit my mom bought for me at Kress: It was a red top-and-skirt combo with a ruffled neckline and hem, which I paired with chunky white sandals to attend my cousin Esteban’s christening in 2003. The set couldn’t have cost more than $50, but I loved it. It was the epitome of what I knew as fashion until that point: affordable clothing bought from Puerto Rican-owned stores.
After 50 years in business, Kress Stores announced in March that it was closing its few remaining locations “in the coming weeks.” To generations of Puerto Ricans who grew up with the retail chain’s fashions and stores as cultural touchstones, the loss is irreparable. Amid a decades-long financial crisis that has eroded many of Puerto Rico’s retail and economic hubs, Kress’s closure represents yet another loss of the prosperous life Puerto Ricans were promised as the archipelago industrialized in the mid-20th century.
Opened in 1963, Kress was one of the main fashion retailers in Puerto Rico by the 1970s. With its catchy slogan, “Kress, la moda que es,” the retailer provided men’s, women’s, and kids’ clothing, intimates, and school uniforms that covered what Puerto Ricans call the three B’s: bueno, bonito, y barato (good quality, cute, and inexpensive). Its commercials were also an iconic landmark of Puerto Rican culture throughout the late 20th century, featuring local celebrities like beauty queen Laurie Simpson and model Ileana Cambó. One of its most legendary commercials came in 2003 when the chain released its 40th anniversary campaign. The ad featured three friends wearing Kress clothes in “cada etapa de la vida” — from college graduation and job interviews to their kids’ early steps.
Over the years, as mall culture spread in Puerto Rico, local stores like Kress, González PadÃn, and Infinito slowly lost the battle against U.S. retail chains. When the financial crisis deepened in Puerto Rico in the late aughts, the archipelago’s retail hubs dwindled, a reality that only worsened as the government filed for bankruptcy and natural disasters like Hurricane MarÃa and the 2020 earthquakes propelled millions to leave. Hubs like the famous Paseo de Diego, a walkable, bustling street in San Juan that used to house Puerto Rican-owned stores, theaters, restaurants, and bars in the late 20th century were impacted, too. My mom always used to tell me about Paseo de Diego, urging me to go there in between classes at the University of Puerto Rico, which was just a few blocks away. But by the time I reached college in 2012, little was left of the fabric stores and the cafes that my mom used to frequent. By 2019, local newspaper Primera Hora described Paseo de Diego as “chaotic and depressive.” Somehow Kress, along with all the memories it helped clothe throughout our lives, had made it out of this mess. Until it didn’t.
When I got the news that the retailer was folding, I couldn’t help but think of that red two-piece set my mom bought there for me. As a fashion-minded kid in Puerto Rico, I loved visiting Kress stores with her. I still remember the silver racks packed with tube tops, asymmetric skirts, and low-rise jeans. For our most special occasions, my mom and I would go to Kress to get a new outfit: the pink pajama set I sported to my friend Gina’s sleepover, the white halter dress I had on during one of my last Mother’s Day celebrations with my grandmother, and, of course, that unforgettable red top-and-skirt combo I wore to my cousin’s christening. These outfits gave me just what the ad promised: something “to celebrate every step of life.”
While the company had shuttered several stores in the last few years, Nieves says the closure announcement still came as a shock: “Losing the store, not having the option of such affordable clothes, and a network of people we met through my dad over the years — it’s all gone.”
Emma Morales, 54, who worked at Kress during college in the 1980s, says that she has searched for any remaining stores throughout the archipelago since the announcement was made last month to check what’s left. “I’ve even looked online to see which ones are still open and nothing,” she says. The memories of those few years she worked as a sales associate in the accessories department at Kress starting in 1985 are still fresh. At the time, she was studying at the Interamerican University in Bayamón, which was close enough to the store for Morales to drive the distance in between school and work in the old Mazda her grandmother had bought for her.
Beyond a job, Kress satiated Morales’ fascination for fashion. “Every time new shipments arrived, we’d all suddenly want to go to the bathroom, but it was really an excuse to go see the clothes,” she says. “We’d put in our layaway orders right there.” Those clothes looked very different from the low-rise mini skirts and tube tops my mom bought for me in the early 2000s. “I remember the colored tights, the thick belts. I mean, it was the 1980s,” she says. Going to work was like a fashion show; Morales and her coworkers refused to wear flats even though they’d be on the floor for hours: “No, no. We were all dressed to the nines.”
For Morales, the biggest impact of Kress was its “family-oriented” offering, which allowed multiple generations to grow up with affordable, fashionable clothes. Throughout her life, Kress was there, just like the ad guaranteed. Kress styled the linen two-piece suit she wore during her first job interview and it clothed her children, Victoria and David, when they were toddlers. “Thinking of all this gives me goosebumps,” she says. “It’s so emotional.”
As Kress closes its doors forever, I can only think I was lucky enough to witness a Puerto Rico where local stores were part of the memories we created with our clothes. Today, with retailers like Kress shuttered across the archipelago, that legacy lives in the Puerto Rican-owned brands, boutiques, and markets that continue dando la batalla and betting on Puerto Rico’s future.
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For decades, A-listers have glammed up for the Golden Globes, mellowed out for the SAGs, and pulled out almost all the stops for the Grammys. But the mother of all award shows is the Oscars, where the all-star Hollywood glamour always comes out to play.
From couture gowns to custom-made looks, the red carpet at the Oscars showcases the best of fashion, guaranteeing some unforgettable moments. Who can forget Audrey Hepburn's white Givenchy dress in 1954? Or the Dior gown Jennifer Lawrence wore to accept her first Academy Award? Then, there are the outfits that push the limits of red carpet fashion: Take, for example, Sharon Stone's 1998 shirt-and-skirt combo or Ariana De Bose's crop top-and-pants look, which she paired with a long train, in 2022?
In an effort to document Oscars fashion history, we're taking a trip down memory lane and reminiscing on the best red carpets of the past decades. See which celebrities made the cut by clicking through the throwback looks ahead.
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