लैक्मे फैशन वीक के तीसरे दिन प्रतीक बब्बर भी रैंप पर नजर आए। इस दौरान उनका जो लुक और एक्सप्रेशन्स थे, वह कुछ ऐसे थे कि आपको भी सीरियल शक्तिमान का कैरेक्टर तमराज किलविश याद आ जाएगा।
| RITU KUMAR | PAYAL SINGHAL | SANGEETA BOOCHRA | ASHIMA LEENA | AHILYA | SATYA PAUL | SHAZE | AZA | RINA DHAKA | GLOBAL DESI | ZARIIN |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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| Jackets |
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Friday, February 14, 2020
The Complicated Relationship Between Shapewear & Body Positivity
Modern shapewear — Spanx specifically, which will mark its 20th anniversary on February 15 — was born into a very specific era with a very specific vision of the ideal woman. It was the era of low-rise jeans, peek-a-boo thongs, bodycon dresses. Everything had to be tighter, smoother, more taut and toned, and often more overtly sexual. If you didn’t meet this ideal, shapewear presented itself as a solution to your “problem.”
Today, more than a decade later, the world has changed, but many of those problems are still around. Although the body positivity movement has made significant progress in the effort to love ourselves and our bodies better, even the most confident people struggle with what they see in the mirror. Since its inception, shapewear has been marketed as a quick fix for those moments of frazzled frustration, i.e. “This just doesn’t fit right!” or “How can I look…smoother?” And that strategy has paid off — big time.
Industry estimates suggest the compression and shapewear market size is expected to climb to $6.4 billion by 2024. When I purchased my first pair of Spanx in the early 2000s, Spanx was the major — if not the only — player in the game. Things have changed quite a bit since then. Brands like Heist and Shapermint have entered the space, aiming to revamp shapewear’s image. The goal? Make it less about “fixing” a problem and more about doing whatever makes you feel good and comfortable.
“We wanted to give women freedom by giving them something better,” Fiona Fairhurst, vice president of innovation at Heist, said last fall after the brand released a new bodysuit that purportedly removes “the struggle, sweat, and squeezing” typically associated with shapewear. “While intimate apparel is the fastest growing market within apparel, there is very little catering to the comfort of women.”
Physical comfort, though, means nothing without being comfortable mentally and emotionally. And for many people, that’s not always easy when shapewear is involved. When you’ve got Kim Kardashian calling her SKIMS shapewear brand “solutionwear,” is it even possible to be both body positive and a shapewear user?
Well, before we can answer that question, it’s worth considering what constitutes shapewear to begin with.
“What is shapewear? Anything that alters your shape makes sense to be considered shapewear,” model Precious Lee, who was featured in Kardashian’s campaign launch for SKIMS, told Refinery29. “I personally feel bras and shoulder pads are shapewear. Broader shoulders, lifted boobs — what’s the difference between shoulder pads and bras and spandex bodysuits under thin fabrics? Beauty standards are such bullshit, I’m exhausted from hearing the term to be honest.”
But, to be fair, she’s also tired of bras — at least some of the time.
“Not worrying about your slinky dress clinging to your tummy may feel more free, but have you ever spent a whole day in public bra-free?” Lee said. “It’s amazing. It all depends on the moment, the garment, and the woman that’s wearing it. Do I feel less beautiful without it? No. Do I feel more comfortable wearing a strapless dress on the red carpet with a strapless bra? Yes. It’s not a make or break. It’s a preference.”
That’s a sentiment Denise Bidot supports. The model recently starred in a Shapermint campaign titled, “Feel Like the Masterpiece You Are.” According to a company press release, it wanted to show that although women do work to achieve “ultimate body confidence” through shapewear, they’ll have days when they opt to “magnify their inherent beauty.”
“I want to encourage women to embrace shapewear and know there is nothing to be embarrassed about in trying it,” Bidot said. “I always talk about shapewear. I’m an open book. I’m not using it for any ill reasons. When I was posting about Shapermint, someone in the comments came at me, and I had to immediately respond to that because [smoothing out] my lines has nothing to do with my confidence or my body positivity.”
For the campaign, Shapermint pulled from the real-life “key moments” of its consumers, identifying those instances when they need an extra boost of confidence: following childbirth, in response to medically induced weight gain, before a wedding or big event, at work, and as they reach common milestones in their body’s evolution.
“We wanted to break with this notion that women aren’t allowed to have ‘off’ days where they feel less confident,” said Shapermint’s head of brand, Stephanie Biscomb. “We all have insecure or self-conscious days, weeks or months, and some of us wear shapewear to feel confident again during those trying times. There shouldn’t be shame in that.”
It’s an ambitious thought: let women do and wear what they want, when they want, without any shame or backlash. But what does that look like in practice? Can consumers buy and wear shapewear without perpetuating unrealistic beauty expectations and standards in the first place?
“To be honest, I’m not sure that we can,” said Brianna Huntsman, a consultant and blogger. “My struggle with shapewear of any kind has been that it is designed to make the wearer’s body more acceptable. As a feminist, I struggle with my decision to wear shapewear to change my body to fit patriarchal beauty standards.”
Huntsman also has polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), a hormonal disorder that can dramatically affect weight. Between 2012 and 2019, she gained about 100 pounds. Shapewear entered the picture.
“This radically changed my relationship with my body,” Huntsman recalled. “I started wearing Spanx because I desperately wanted my body to be smaller, sometimes wearing two pairs. I was very self-conscious about having a lot of this weight gain in my stomach.”
Although Huntsman said she believes “there is no wrong way to have a body,” it can sometimes be tough staying connected to that belief, especially in a world constantly reminding you of what you need to fix or change.
“I know that I don’t need a solution for my cellulite, but feel almost cornered into wearing shapewear by society,” Huntsman explained. “When it comes to perpetuating beauty standards, I’ve made a commitment on my platform to share when I am and am not wearing Spanx. I’d like to see more creators do this, in the same way some brands are transparent about Photoshop use.”
In other words, the solution to this particular problem area might just be revealing what we’ve been working so hard to hide all along.
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Kim Kardashian Picked New Name For Shapewear Line
Paloma Elsesser Is Just Getting Started
Paloma Elsesser is having one hell of a month. It started with Copenhagen Fashion Week, where the 27-year-old model walked in Ganni’s now-viral fall ‘20 show. From there, she hopped on a flight back home for a quick stint at New York Fashion Week to not only walk for Eckhaus Latta, a brand she’s been working with for years now, but also to casually hang out with Dapper Dan, Chioma Nnadi, and Anna Wintour for Vogue 100’s annual fashion week dinner at Majorelle.
Cut to 24 hours post-Eckhaus Latta. I’m across the country, standing in the dimly lit hallway of a mid-century modern home in Beverly Hills for H&M’s Studio Collection launch party. Lykke Li is here, performing a surprise acoustic set which acts as background noise to my short but sweet conversation with Elsesser. As “Sex Money Feelings Die” plays, I ask her why she got into modeling in the first place. “Somebody gave me the want before I wanted it for myself because I never knew that I wanted it,” Elsesser says.
While studying in New York, Elsesser was contacted by an editor at Pop Magazine who told her about the changing industry, asking her to join in on the movement. “I took the bait,” she says. “I was inspired by how it was evolving and that I could have financial and experiential autonomy over my life, which I didn’t have as a 20-year-old. I also wanted the chance to change the world a little bit. And that seemed like enough for me.” Two years later, she was contacted via Instagram DM by the great Pat McGrath, who asked her to star in the makeup artist’s Golden Makeover line. That’s when things really took off.
Since, she’s posed naked for Glossier billboards all over Manhattan, starred in a Fenty Beauty campaign for Rihanna, and became a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund judge. “Anna sent me a personal email,” she recalls. “I thought she sent it to the wrong email.” Now, of course, they’re thick as thieves. “She answered my email today. Like yes, Anna Wintour has emailed me.” But for someone who’s been hand-chosen by fashion royalty, Elsesser doesn’t, in any way, act superior. Instead, she’s using her newfound role as a judge to shake things up. “It’s been like such an incredibly eye-opening experience getting to see how this business works up close because if I don’t know the business, how am I supposed to change the industry? That’s what I came here to do: I didn’t come to wear clothes, I came here to disrupt and change some shit.”
And that’s exactly what she’s doing. For one, she was part of the committee that awarded Brooklyn-based designer Christopher John Rogers the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, which allowed him to focus solely on his namesake brand. “It’s been amazing to be a part of him getting that award because while he, of course, deserved it off talent, the conversation always came down to his magic, his energy, and what it means for him to be a new American designer that we can look back at in time and know that we supported.”
In addition to that role, Elsesser continues to push boundaries in her modeling career, paving the way for a cooler and more inclusive industry. “For way too long, the plus-size industry has been all about being extremely sexy,” she says. She then walks me through the most spot-on description of every plus-size modeling campaign of the last decade: A curvy girl all oiled up wearing a leather jacket over her shoulders. But that’s not how she sees the next ten years going. “I really feel like instead of all that, we can just be cool, we can have nuance, we can be strange.” Since Paloma rose to supermodel status, she’s been able to parlay that message, giving rise to a community of plus-size models who look different than the picture she so accurately painted in my head.
As for other changes that she’d like to instill on the fashion industry, empathy is her highest priority. “I think there needs to be a heavy dollop of empathy inserted for the well-being of models.” The way she sees it, it’s great that nowadays, the general welfare of models is being taken care of (read: sexual assault is no longer being swept under the rug and models aren’t being told to “correct changing areas” as they previously were), but what really needs to be pushed is the nurturing of peoples’ careers so that it’s not just about how you look. “But that takes time. Even just that you were able to ask me that question and me answer it honestly is a change in and of itself.”
For someone who never had any intention of working in the fashion industry, Paloma Elsesser has made one serious mark on it. And at just 27-years-old, these weighty accomplishments are only the beginning of what’ll surely be a long and impactful career for the model.
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Exclusive: Pics From H&M's Spring '20 Collection
If You’re Going To Shop ONE Sale This Weekend, Make It Nordstrom’s Winter Sale
When plotting your plan of attack for the Nordstrom sale, we suggest focusing your attention on quality and style that can stand the test of time. And to help you do just that, we've sorted through a 100 pages of the sale and culled a few gems to get you started, but it's up to you to move fast. Because it's not enough to get a good deal, we want the good goods too. We included some additional wardrobe must-haves too, like Hanky Panky underwear sets and a fun accessory or two (for good measure). Ahead, find a selection of smart pieces that you can put to work over and over again without the big investment price — and some bonus items to boost your closet credibility.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
All deals in this post reflect the listed prices and product availability at the time of publication.
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The Best President's Day Fashion Sales To Shop
What Happened To NYFW?
Last Friday evening, one in-demand model after the next walked — or, more accurately, floated — down a mirrored runway to a remix of The Pointer Sisters’s hit “I’m So Excited.” The show was Tom Ford, and “excited” was undoubtedly the mood at his highly anticipated event that was bursting at the seams with glamour: Supermodels-turned-superheros donned vibrant, cape-like tops that cascaded over fitted sweatpants; an otherworldly Bella Hadid, hair slicked back, opened the evening-wear portion of the night in a glittering sheer gown with Kendall Jenner not far behind in an equally transparent, lace iteration of the same silhouette. This epic spectacle was running on the star power in the room as attendees like Jennifer Lopez, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Jeff Bezos (yes, you read that last one correctly) looked on.
Ford is known for his signature New York Fashion Week kick-offs, and this would’ve been one hell of a way to do it. Except, he wasn’t in New York.
The mega-designer decided to show his new F/W 2020 collection in Los Angeles this season and, like an irresistible fashion magnet, he attracted a bevy of A-listers and editorial talent (Anna Wintour included) all the way across the country. Naturally, this redirected the industry’s attention away from the regularly scheduled east coast happenings — a blow to the gut of NYFW and its already dwindling relevancy.
“When I went to the Tom Ford show in LA, what I was really struck by was the amount of editors, stylists, journalists, and critics who are based in New York but showed up for the show,” says Connie Wang, a senior writer at Refinery29 who lives in California. She points out that for those in attendance, accommodating the February 7th date of Ford’s show required missing the first day of NYFW and, most likely, at least half of day two. “That Friday-through-Saturday time stretch has generally been pretty important, and the spot is usually reserved for a lot of really buzzy and contemporary designers whose shows are well-attended [in New York],” Wang explains. And while the absence of show-goers was already felt throughout the early portion of fashion week — which included big-ticket items like the Brandon Maxwell show at the Museum of Natural History and a collection voluminous gowns by CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Christopher John Rogers — a sizeable handful opted to skip out on all six days entirely.
Dora Fung is a freelance editor and stylist who has been covering NYFW since 2006 for publications like Vogue China and The Cut. She was among the crowd of Tom Ford spectators that chose to forego most of the New York events in favor of an extended, sun-drenched stay in California, making it back only for day six’s Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs shows. “I felt bad missing some of the shows in New York, especially Monse and Self Portrait because I have a personal relationship with the designers, but Tom Ford has been so good to the magazines I work with that it was too important to not be in LA for it,” she says with her sights now set on Milan. Ford’s clout, it appears, is heavily rooted in his ties to Hollywood. This has long been the not-so-secret ingredient to his recipe for success. The designer-cum-film director knows how to make an irresistible cocktail of ravishing designs mixed with potent VIP energy and topped off with a delicious sex appeal, and people are drinking it up now more than ever before. “That is the power of having an A-lister sitting front row. Where else would you have gotten J.Lo, Renee Zellwegger, Demi Moore, and Miley Cyrus?”
So is Ford at the helm of a mass exodus away from New York? Or, as NYFW struggles to stay afloat in a turbulent sea of change, is he simply riding the current out west?
This was not the first time Ford has deviated from tradition in the direction of California. In February 2015, he showed his F/W 2015 collection in LA. Similarly to his recent F/W 2020 show, the occasion was planned to align with the run-up to the Oscars. “Culturally speaking, the Oscars are more important than NYFW, so why not invest energy and time and physical bodies in the Oscars rather than in NYFW? That might be really forward- thinking,” Wang says. The city is also Ford’s professional and personal home base.
But last Friday marked the designer’s second season as the newly minted chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, so the controversy of defecting to LA is more symbolic this time around. It can be perceived as a vote of no confidence in NYFW, which just happens to be the most significant export of the institution Ford now leads. After being tapped for the role due to his global vision and perspective, his first order of business was to slice a few days off the NYFW schedule — something editors were actually quite thankful for, and an act CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb tells Refinery29 has been “an overwhelming success.” But Ford’s LA decision was met with less praise among NYFW organizers and participants who feel like their captain has jumped ship.
“The point of a show now is to create an Instagrammable moment, and the reason that you have to show in a Fashion Week, in a key city, is that you need as many of the people that people care about in one room at one time to shoot those images all over the world,” Ford told Vogue in an August 2019 interview just months before the announcement of his F/W 2020 show location. For a designer like Ford whose pieces are red carpet staples, those “people” for him are in LA, not New York. That means the “key city” for his business is also LA, not New York. Apparently, the CFDA does not disagree.
“NYFW will always be the epicenter of American fashion and newness,” Kolb says. “CFDA believes brands should do what is best for their business, and we support designers who decide to embrace other fashion capitals and expand their horizons — which is at the heart of our mission.”
And Ford is certainly not the first to skip town in the best interest of his company. For the past few years, big-name brands like Thom Browne and Altuzarra have left New York to show in Europe instead, chasing the promise of bigger sales in Milan and Paris. Buyers have followed suit to keep up with the industry’s top designers, and the empty seats at New York shows are becoming increasingly hard to ignore. This international shift has drawn into question the real purpose and efficacy of NYFW, asking whether or not it can survive in its existing format. The growing desire to conduct business abroad is exactly what earned Ford, who has spent the majority of his career in Paris and London, his position in the CFDA.
So the problem, it seems, might be New York itself. As the needs and demands of designers and attendees evolve, the CFDA has to evolve quickly along with them, regardless of where Tom Ford and his army of chic celebs are rallying. Writers and editors are growing tired of Ubering back and forth across the city to watch shows that brands no longer want to pay for (or simply can’t afford). Plus, the rise of influencer culture has made way for a decline in the involvement of traditional and even digital media, resulting in an audience that’s often more concerned with being seen rather than actually seeing.
When bloggers (aka: the OG inflencers) first infiltrated the fashion circuit over ten years ago, their presence at shows and presentations incited a collective eye roll among the magazine professionals they’d ultimately replace. But the rapid rise of then-rookies like Leandra Medine, Bryan Grey Yambao, and Susie Lau caused a stylish stir, and the hype surrounding the value of their digital followings intensified. Bloggers multiplied and morphed into influencers, and with every Instagram post, social media shoutout, and enthusiastic RSVP, they persisted in asserting their credibility. As more invitations rolled in, the influencer floodgates were forced open, washing editorial veterans out of their front row spots. Add to this NYFW’s current partnerships with platforms like Youtube and TikTok for content streaming and creation, and it’s clear that technology and social media are reshaping and democratizing New York’s approach to fashion week — but the city is losing some of its key MVPs in the process.
Now that the week has officially come to a close, we look back on its series of events with the same apprehension that’s plagued NYFW for a number of seasons. Yes, Marc Jacobs had his choreographed dance routines and Miley Cyrus (who was just sitting front row at Tom Ford). And yes, Brandon Maxwell had creepy-but-cool taxidermy and Bella Hadid (who also came back from Tom Ford). But it might not be enough to keep the conventional fashion world engaged and, more importantly, invested.
But there were moments of definite promise, most notably, the triumphant return of Rodarte and Proenza Schouler to the NYFW scene. It’s a homecoming that was described as “comforting” by Alexa Seitz, a buyer at Manhattan’s mecca of luxury retail, Bergdorf Goodman. “Over the past few years, we have seen key players in NY leave us for Europe… and you know for a moment it did feel like something was missing,” she says. “Like the city of New York itself, fashion weeks have their ups and downs, but we continue to see exciting things coming out of New York — think Khaite and Delvaux. Even if it’s on a smaller scale, New York is our home and it’s still just as important.”
And then there’s the innovation and hope that radiates from runways of young brands like Area, Christopher John Rogers, and Priscavera. The death of NYFW would mean a destructive decline in opportunity for these up-and-comers, and nobody wants that. Consumers are craving newness and optimism, which is exactly what these designers are serving up on a brightly colored, crystal-embellished platter. These are the unsung heroes of NYFW who deserve our attention. They may even be able to save NYFW. So don’t look away just yet, because these players are just entering the game, and from the looks of it, they aren’t going anywhere.
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Shanghai Fashion Week Cancels Due To Coronavirus
सई मांजरेकर के आगे फीका पड़ा मलाइका अरोड़ा का ग्लैमर February 14, 2020 at 01:55AM
लैक्मे फैशन वीक के तीसरे दिन भी रैंप पर मॉडल्स के साथ बीटाउन सितारे भी नजर आए। इनमें बिपाशा बसु, करण सिंह ग्रोवर और मलाइका अरोड़ा भी शामिल थे। हालांकि, रैंप पर जब सई मांजरेकर उतरीं तो उनकी खूबसूरती के आगे मलाइका और बिपाशा का ग्लैमर भी कम पड़ता नजर आया।
अनुराग कश्यप के कपड़े देख या तो छूट जाएगी हंसी या पीट लेंगे माथा February 13, 2020 at 11:47PM
फिल्ममेकर अनुराग कश्यप वैसे तो आजकल अपनी फिल्मों से ज्यादा विवादित बयानों के लिए जाने जा रहे हैं, लेकिन इस बीच भी वह फिल्मी सर्कल में ऐक्टिव बने हुए हैं। फिल्म 'लव आजकल' की स्पेशल स्क्रीनिंग रखी गई तो इसमें अन्य सितारों के साथ ही अनुराग भी नजर आए। हालांकि, उन्होंने यहां शिरकत करने के लिए जो कपड़े और स्टाइल चुना था वह कुछ ऐसा था कि या तो आपकी हंसी छूट जाएगी या फिर आप अपना माथा पीट लेंगे। अनुराग कश्यप ने फिल्म स्क्रीनिंग में स्टाइलिश दिखने के लिए ब्लैक टी-शर्ट और ग्रे ब्लेजर चुना था। इन दोनों का कॉम्बिनेशन अच्छा था। लेकिन फोटो पर जब उनके पैंट सिलेक्शन पर नजर जाती है तो फैशन डिज़ैस्टर शुरू होता दिखाई देता है। ब्लेजर और टी-शर्ट के साथ अनुराग ने आर्मी प्रिंट पैंट्स चुनी थीं जो ऐंकल पर नेरो स्टिच के साथ थीं। इतना ही नहीं और स्टाइलिश दिखने के लिए फिल्ममेकर ने बकायदा आर्मी बूट्स भी चुने और उन्हें अपने लुक के साथ मैच किया। यह कहने में कोई हर्ज नहीं कि फैशन और स्टाइल दोनों ही लिहाज से यह लुक कंप्लीट फेल्यर था। आर्मी पैंट्स और बूट्स की जगह अगर अनुराग सिंपल ट्राउजर और स्नीकर्स ही चुन लेते तो भी उनका ब्लेजर लुक चल निकलता। फिल्ममेकर पर यह लुक और अजीब लगने का एक कारण शायद उनकी हाइट ऐंड हेल्थ भी थी। अगर इस लुक को विद्युत जामवाल, विकी कौशल, टाइगर श्रॉफ जैसे स्टार्स कैरी करते तो यकीनन वह काफी हैंडसम लगते। और इतना तो हमें यकीन है कि वे ब्लेजर की जगह इस लुक को परफेक्ट बनाने के लिए लेदर या डेनिम जैकेट कैरी करते।
लेटेस्ट फोटोशूट में दिखा सोनम कपूर का रॉयल लुक, हर तस्वीर है स्टनिंग February 13, 2020 at 10:19PM
बीटाउन की फैशनिस्ट सोनम कपूर ने एक बार फिर अपने इंस्टाग्राम पर स्टनिंग फोटोज पोस्ट किए हैं। रॉयल लुक में दिख रही सोनम हर तस्वीर में बेहद गॉरजस नजर आ रही हैं।
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