Olivia Rodrigo may only be 23, but the pop star knows exactly who she is. The young singer has been vocal about supporting women’s rights since she was a teenager, and recently held the inaugural Daisy Chain Fields music festival — inspired by Sarah McLachlan’s Lilith Fair — raising $20 million USD for women’s charities. During a press conference for the festival, where she announced an initial $10 USD million donation, Rodrigo made waves by stepping out in a Palestinian-designed dress by Nöl Collective. At a time when Palestine is suffering under Israeli occupation, wearing a garment made on the ground with symbols of freedom on it was a strong statement.
“It helped say, ‘We are still here; we have not been forgotten’,” designer and founder Yasmeen Mjalli tells Refinery29. “It meant the world to us.” Mjalli isn’t sure how Rodrigo or her team discovered their fashion brand, but says they were honoured to be chosen, and stayed in contact with her team throughout the process. While the singer’s team suggested some general ideas for the silhouette that aligned with her classic style and the colour pink, Nöl Collective were given more free rein than one might imagine. “We had a lot of creative freedom in the details, such as the shade of pink — a soft and dusty rose — the type of material we use[d], raw silk, [and] details like the flutter sleeves, frilled neckline, the embroidery motifs and the embroidery colours,” the designer explains. “It was so much fun to be given the creative freedom to bring something to life that honoured Olivia’s style while also reflecting our own identity.”
The symbols on the dress are also more than just decoration. While the garment is beautiful, Nöl Collective knows the power that Palestinian embroidery can hold; representing a political reality, the natural world, and our dreams. The design house chose specific motifs to tie into Rodrigo’s ethos and what she stands for. “The flowers spoke to the theme of the Daisy Chain Fields festival. Flowers are incredibly important in our world; they decorate the land after rains, [provide] beauty after a storm, [support] ecosystems, [feed] wildlife, and sometimes [contain] medicinal properties,” Mjalli says. “In this particular instance, the daisy chain symbolizes the power of a united world in the face of adversity.” The dusty rose dress also featured embroidered birds, a clear representation of freedom — not just for Palestinians, but for all those who need it around the world.
It helped say, ‘We are still here; we have not been forgotten’.
Yasmeen Mjalli On olivia rodrigo choosing Nöl Collective To Design Her Dress
Nöl Collective’s garments are handmade in Jerusalem, Gaza, Ramallah, and Bethlehem, and the fashion brand places a strong emphasis on showcasing the entire process. Mjalli knows fashion is inherently political, regardless of where a garment is made. “70% of garment workers in the world are women; it’s a women’s rights issue,” she says. “[And] because fashion has unfathomably detrimental effects on the environment, it’s also an environmental issue.” Fast fashion has been widely criticized for human rights violations and environmental impact, but it’s so easy for consumers to compartmentalize or ignore these issues.
“When you show how the garment is made, you humanize the process and close the gap that separates the consumer from the creator. The hope is that people are more mindful when buying because they can see how much time, labor and love go into a garment,” the designer explains. “We hope that for every garment we put out in the world, you can picture the hands of the women who made them — the same hands which brush hair, pick fruit, and hold children and grandchildren.”
It’s impossible to talk about Nöl Collective without acknowledging the impact the Israeli occupation has had on them. For Mjalli, it’s incredibly hard to put into words how difficult the process of creating garments has been. Moving between cities and towns now takes much longer due to military checkpoints, shipping orders is challenging due to border closures, and customs can destroy shipments at their discretion.
It was so much fun to be given the creative freedom to bring something to life that honored Olivia’s style while also reflecting our own identity.
Nöl Collective founder Yasmeen Mjalli
The fashion house uses natural fibres that it is unable to source locally, so it relies on shipments from overseas. Last week, a large shipment of naturally dyed and hand-woven wools from Indian artisans was rejected. “[It was] destroyed last week, simply because of who we are. This was devastating, because our production had already been delayed for months, meaning the collection would be released much later than needed,” the founder says. “We still had to pay the cost of shipping and for the fabric itself because the artisans still need to be paid for their labor, and then we still needed to buy replacement fabric.” The fashion house ended up having to start a GoFundMe to cover the excess costs because fashion and art matter, and it’s a form of resistance to keep going.
Mjalli wants people to understand how vital it is to support Palestinian businesses, especially those on the ground. “We are creating under impossible circumstances,” she says. “Every day, a door slams shut in our face, and we keep searching until we find another door to keep going. So many talented artisans here don’t get a chance, so supporting artisanal work on the ground here can profoundly impact the community.”
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