Monday, July 25, 2022

These Scandinavian Brands Are Owning The Upcycling Space

As we all aim to shop more responsibly, it can sometimes feel like there are too many so-called sustainable brands and a whole dictionary’s worth of technical jargon. Instead of branching out to find the small labels creating the good stuff, we often end up sticking to a few brands we know. Meanwhile, there are tons of designers producing gorgeous, unique garments and keeping the environment in mind, too.

This is where upcycling comes in. The process, which has become immensely popular in recent years but has been around for centuries, involves creating new clothing from waste fabric, deadstock or old clothes. While brands like Ganni and Levi’s have dropped fully upcycled collections, other labels have committed to making most, if not all, of their product out of recycled fabrics.

And, in case you’re wondering: these clothes don’t look like they’re recycled either. In the expanding Scandinavian fashion scene, several brands are seriously mastering this space. Making it their mission to produce less textile waste, these designers — many of whom are set to display their new collections at next month’s Copenhagen Fashion Week — are making the world a more stylish and responsible place through upcycled dresses, outerwear and even jewelry. Below, discover the need-to-know Scandinavian brands that are turning waste into wardrobe gold.

Rave Review

Stockholm-based label Rave Review was created on the basis of upcycling, co-founder Livia Schück tells Refinery29. The brand’s most popular upcycled piece is a blanket coat made from vintage blankets. “The most significant thing for us is to work with secondhand and vintage home textiles, such as blankets and terry toweling. Along with this we buy deadstock rolls to sometimes combine them,” says Schück. Rave Review produces dresses, skirts, tops, trousers, and more.

Shop the brand’s products from its website and stockists like Net-A-Porter and Matches Fashion (coming this fall).

A. Roege Hove

Founded in 2019, this Danish brand specializes in contemporary knitwear made from as many old fabric swatches and samples as possible. Each style is made with a goal to minimize waste and some are even created with zero waste. Others are made with new, responsibly sourced fabric. A. Roege Hove will showcase its upcoming collection at next month’s Copenhagen Fashion Week for the third time.

You can shop the brand’s products from its website and stockists like Farfetch and SSENSE.

Mia Larsson

Who says jewelry can’t be made from old materials, too? Mia Larsson is a Swedish designer who hand-makes earrings, rings, and necklaces out of discarded oyster and mussel shells from local Stockholm restaurants. “In my studio I cut, treat and polish the shells, and silversmith the metal to make rings, necklaces and earrings. It’s amazing how much potential and inspiration each shell brings,” Larsson tells Refinery29. Her packaging is made from recycled and locally-sourced materials.

Shop Mia Larsson jewellery from her website and stockists like Paro Store.

di(vision)

The ethos behind di(vision) is to “create from what already was”, which is the main tenet of upcycling. Founded by Danish siblings Nanna and Simon Wick in 2018, this unisex label works almost exclusively with deadstock and upcycled fabrics to create garments with a vintage feel. Sourced via stocklots, military surplus and vintage wholesale, the brand’s products include deconstructed jackets, deadstock hoodies and patchwork denim.

You can shop di(vision) from its website.

Filippa K

Over the last year, Swedish brand Filippa K has released several collections featuring products made from leftover fabric. The most recent swimwear drop features swimsuits made of black velvet from previous Filippa K collections and blue Econyl® recycled polyamide from post-consumer waste. The brand tells Refinery29: “We design for the full life cycle of a garment with the intention of reducing, repairing, reusing and recycling.”

You can shop Filippa K from its website.

Studio Mend

Founded by Norwegian-German designer Sunniva Rademacher Flesland, Studio Mend’s focus is on repairing high-quality garments through visible mending or embroidery. “I wanted to find a way to highlight the value of our clothes and present an alternative to throwing away those garments,” Flesland tells Refinery29. From Acne tees to Burberry coats, all of Studio Mend’s materials are sourced secondhand in Norway. “Hopefully, I encourage people to buy higher quality clothes and use them longer, and then invest time or money in repairing them.”

You can shop Studio Mend from Paro Store.

Correction: This piece was updated to amend an error regarding A. Roege Hove. A previous version of this story stated that the brand would debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week, but SS23 will be their third appearance.

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Trompe L’Oeil Is The Surrealist Fashion Trend That Will Be Everywhere This Fall

In fashion, the expression “more than meets the eye” rings particularly true, especially when it comes to one of fall’s biggest trends: trompe l’oeil.

A French term for “trick the eye,” the optical illusion style is characterized by silhouettes, prints, and other elements that appear as if in 3-D. Think: dresses that superimpose naked figures on the wearer or blazers that use shadows to make it look like there are buttons and pockets where there are none. “It’s almost as if you can step into [the look],” says Darnell-Jamal Lisby, fashion historian and the assistant curator of fashion at the Cleveland Museum of Art. “It’s this experience where you just ask, ‘Is it coming to life? Is it real? Is it coming out of a particular piece of work?”

The trippy trend was displayed heavily on the fall 2022 runways: Balmain and Y/Project showed apparel that looked like naked bodies; Loewe included a dress that featured arms that seemed to hug the model; and Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry sent out a jacket with a trompe l’oeil neckline of two faces looking at each other. Celebrities have also embraced the trend’s comeback: Kylie Jenner wore the Balmain body dress to the Billboard Music Awards, Tessa Thompson sported a skirt that tricked the eye into thinking she was wearing a pair of pants from Maison Martin Margiela, and Bella Thorne wore a “naked dress” by Sergio Castaño Peña to the Morbius premiere. 

LOS ANGELES, CA – JUNE 22: Tessa Thompson is seen on June 22, 2022 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Hollywood To You/Star Max/GC Images)

Trompe l’oeil took off almost 100 years ago, thanks to creatives like Elsa Schiaparelli, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí, who were major figures in the development of surrealism. This cultural movement emerged in response to the social and economic upheaval from World War I and in the aftermath of the Spanish Flu pandemic, resulting in absurdist art that was in direct contrast to real life. It became both an escapist medium and a platform to comment on the political happenings of the time through distorted figures, dream-like scenes, and irreverent juxtapositions. “It was a visual escape for many people,” says Lisby. “It allowed people to dream and imagine [alternate scenarios].”

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Schiaparelli brought this idea to fashion with pieces like a sweater featuring what looked like a scarf collar; a coat that showed two faces looking at each other, with their silhouettes forming a flower vase from 1937; and gloves with red nail polish. “The idea of creating experiences through fashion, almost like a dream, is the essence of surrealism,” says Lisby. Over time, other designers have adopted trompe l’oeil. Geoffrey Beene designed optical illusion garments during the ‘60s and ‘70s; Jean Paul Gaultier became known for showing naked bodies on his clothing in the ‘90s, and John Galliano applied trompe l’oeil to his work at his namesake label, Dior, and Maison Martin Margiela for the last 30 years. 

PYER MOSS COUTURE 1

Almost a century after surrealism first emerged, the world is once again witnessing a pandemic and a war, so it’s no surprise fashion designers are once again embracing elements of surrealism: Loewe’s balloon-shaped bras, Prada’s lopsided kitten heels, Moschino’s household objects-inspired collection, Wiederhoeft’s poodle dress, and Pyer Moss’ couture peanut butter jars and ice cream cone creations. In particular, there is renewed interest in Schiaparelli which, at the hands of Roseberry, has returned to its eccentric way with metal breastplates and ear-shaped earrings that nod to the house’s codes. The late designer has also inspired a new exhibition in Paris, titled “Shocking! The Surreal World Of Elsa Schiaparelli.”

“The world around us always affects designers because they’re artists. Designers are just responding to what’s going on at this time and trying to figure out ways to do it using practices that are set in the foundation of fashion,” says Lisby. “It’s asking, ‘Do you want to feel happy and joyful at some point in time? Feel that there’s a world where some joy and peace can really ensue once again and we can all have a certain level of victory?’” 

As trompe l’oeil returns in style, it’s time to give fashion a closer look. You never know what you may find.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Skims’ Sold-Out Swim Collection Is Coming Back — Is It Worth The Hype?

When the debut Skims Swim collection launched in March, it didn’t take long for the entire swimwear line to sell out. This was not entirely surprising: Not only do new drops from Kim Kardashian’s clothing line tend to fly off the shelves within minutes of release (see: Fendi x Skims collaboration) but the brand-new category was also full of summer’s biggest swimsuit trends: bikinis with cut-outs, Tarzan bottoms, and matching swimsuit sets made of crop tops, tube skirts, and bike shorts.

Having missed out on Skims Swim four months ago, we at Refinery29 have been waiting for the restock (coming on July 28) to see what the hype is all about. Ahead of the new collection’s release — which, in addition to the previously sold-out pieces, will feature 11 new styles and limited-edition colors, including a Barbiecore pink — we reviewed some of the products from the line. Below, our thoughts.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Skims Swim Sleeveless One Piece & Tube Skirt in Gunmetal

“My first impression after taking the one-piece swimsuit out of the package was: I mistakenly got a rash guard. The high neck, the long zipper in the back, and the thick material all make it look more like surf wear rather than swim.

As soon as I tried the suit, which I got in size small, on though, I loved it. As a fan of turtlenecks even in the summer and someone who exclusively wears one-pieces, I especially like the covered-up neckline which is balanced out by a more revealing high-cut bottom. I also appreciated the tight-fitting fabric which is supportive without being constricting. While, at first, the zipper appeared unnecessarily long, it was a game-changer when it came to zipping and unzipping the back. I wish all my dresses had this kind of closure as I’ve found myself lying face-down on the bed, trying to unsuccessfully fasten a gown, more times than I care to recall.

I similarly had reservations about the matching skirt as it looked like the type of bathing suit my mom put me in as a kid. However, once I put it on, it perfectly blended with the suit, giving the whole look an illusion of a mini dress. This set was a win for me.” — Irina Grechko, Fashion Director

Skims Swim Plunge Bikini Top, T-Shirt & Mid Waist Bottom in Almond

“I’ve been trying Skims products for a while, including the brand’s shapewear, clothing, and loungewear. The latter has been my favorite; the rest have been a hit or miss, especially when it comes to sizing. I’m usually a size 6 which, according to the Skims site, is small, but, having gotten items that were too tight in the past, this time, I went up to medium to see if that worked better.

The sizing was still a bit too tight for me, especially with the bikini top (the band dug into my skin) and bottom (the fabric isn’t as stretchy as it seemed). The crop top (main photo) fit very well, though, and I can see why someone would want to have this piece as part of their pool-day ensemble. I also loved the rich brown color. 

Overall, I thought this is a good set for the summer (maybe even the fall considering the crop top can be used to layer up!), and I’d be willing to give Skims Swim another try, especially the metallic shades.” — Frances Solá-Santiago, Fashion Writer

Skims Swim Long Sleeve One Piece & Mid Waist Short in Onyx

“These are my first Skims products. I’m currently on the waitlist for a few of the undergarments, so I was super excited to try the swimwear in the meantime. My expectations were high. There has been so much hype surrounding the brand, and now I can confidently say that people were right.

The products felt buttery soft and luxe. The one-piece fit like a glove and the shorts glided over perfectly. (I’m 5’5, 32C, and opted for a size small in both items.) While I’ve never worn “swim shorts” before, I appreciated the option to wear a matching bottom if I wanted more coverage. The one-piece has a high rise — nothing too revealing, but just a little peek-a-boo effect. A unique detail I strangely found myself liking was the long monogrammed SKIMS zipper on the back of the one-piece. Although I needed someone to zip me up, I could easily unzip the swimsuit alone since it was so long and accessible. 

The set definitely has more of a modest look than flirty or sultry and is better suited for snorkeling or playing beach volleyball rather than lounging by the pool.” — Vivien Lee, Affiliate Fashion Writer

Skims Swim Plunge Bikini Top, Mid Waist Bottom & Sarong Skirt in Cocoa

“At this point, I’m a SKIMS believer. The first piece I tried from the brand was the lounge slip dress last year. It quickly became one of my favorite dresses to wear inside AND outside of my home. More recently, I’ve tried products from the Fits Everybody Collection that really sealed the deal as far as my affinity toward the brand goes. With all that being said, I was super pumped to get my hands on some of the brand’s swim pieces.  

I tried size 3X in a bikini top, high-waisted bikini bottoms, and a sarong. I like uncomplicated swimwear that shows a bit of body but fully covers the right spots, which made this suit ideal for me. The high-cut, high-waisted style is my go-to as far as bottoms go, and the plunge-style bikini top was revealing. I was a little worried about the swimsuit covering up my larger boobs, however, that wasn’t an issue. I can see this bikini being a regular in my swimwear rotation.

The skirt is cute for a pool party or a beachside vacation. I definitely would not wear it without a bikini bottom because the slit comes up a little high for that. It’s also made of water-friendly swimsuit material, though I can’t imagine wearing this in the water.” — Chichi Offor, Affiliate Associate Writer

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