Attention, summer-lovers: picnic season has officially arrived. While the traditional gingham-blanketed al fresco meal depicted in Impressionist paintings may have given way to sitting in a circle of bikes at your local city park, enjoying a Chipotle burrito and sipping wine from a styrofoam cup, there are a few core tenets of picnicking that will never change — warm temperatures, good friends, imbibing in close proximity to the ground, and of course, a cute outfit.
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The Park Picnic
Come summertime — no matter what city you live in — your average public park will be teeming with folx congregating on blankets, surrounding by bikes, babies, books, and Bluetooth speakers. Join the fray in a monochrome look that mixes textures — like a cotton crochet sweater and cream-colored, high-waisted jean shorts. (Don’t fear the grass stains — just roll with it. Literally.)
Channel your inner 1970s goddess with an ankle-grazing tent dress dripping with a floral print that rivals anything nature could conjure up. The frock’s light cotton fabrication will ensure that you stay cool while pulling that banana bread out of the oven, and adding Crocs’ cheeky Bae clog to your ’fit will make sure you’re comfortable — even if you don’t get a chance to sit down all day (and all night).
Wray Quinn Dress Acid Floral, $, available at Wray
Crocs Classic Bae Clog, $, available at Zappos— PAID CONTENT —
Elevate your picnic ‘fit (literally) with wedged espadrilles. Beside its classic, wear-forever appeal, the foam-infused footbed and super-soft suede straps make this pair the ideal sandal for all activities — outdoor dining and otherwise.
Cole Haan Cloudfeel Espadrille Wedge Sandal, $, available at Cole Haan
The Sporty Picnic
Is your crew not content to simply sit around and sip White Claw? Do you roll with a group that has to plan competitive games for every outing? If your picnic is going to involve activities where balls fly at your nose, it’s time to don your cutest romper and get ready to skip, skate, or serve your way to fun. This lightweight cotton gauze iteration is one of Madewell’s summer best-sellers, so you better grab it before it’s gone for good.
Madewell Lightspun Belted Safari Romper, $, available at Madewell
A Festive Picnic
Have you heard that festival season is back? If you’re lucky enough to be attending a destination music event like Coachella or Bonnaroo this summer, you’ll probably be having a picnic for every meal. Leave the flower crown behind and opt for an updated version of the
If you’re attending an al fresco event soundtracked by the sweet sounds of obscure techno, we suggest a look that’s equal parts sporty and club-ready. Girlfriend Collective’s orchid-hued exercise skirt is the perfect partner-in-crime for a night on the town — especially when paired with a stretchy, midriff-baring bra top and matching translucent sunglasses.
While Y2K styles have been dominating the fashion scene for almost two years now, the spring and fall 2022 runways proved that the trend cycle might be ready to move on. Looks from the 2010s, like colorblocking and high-low hemlines, have made a big comeback for spring 2022, thanks to designers like Valentino and Giambattista Valli, before trickling down to street style. But when it comes to peplum, its return has been slow.
UNIVERSAL CITY, CA – JUNE 03: Actress Charlize Theron arrives at the 2012 MTV Movie Awards held at Gibson Amphitheatre on June 3, 2012 in Universal City, California. (Photo by Christopher Polk/Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY – SEPTEMBER 01: Kim Kardashian is seen leaving a movie theater on September 1, 2012 in New York City. (Photo by Alo Ceballos/FilmMagic)
That might have to do with the fact that, when the 2010s ended just two years ago, the trend landed on almost every list of fashion styles we should leave behind. (Even Refinery29 called it one of the “15 Trends We’ll Live To Regret.”) Why has peplum gone down in history as a questionable trend at a time when even thong-revealing pants are on the rise?
When you think of peplum in 2010, you likely conjure images of tank tops featuring a heavy layer of stretchy cotton fabric that looked like a cross between a glorified sports bra and a business-casual shirt. From Coachella to the classroom, we mixed the cringe-y top, which came in every print known to humankind, with colorful chandelier necklaces, mullet skirts, and gladiator sandals. All to say: The on-the-verge-of-an-identity-crisis look was worlds away from the fashion-forward take we witnessed at the Oscars last month. Instead, it embodied a juvenile aesthetic that made it a staple of Disney star red carpet looks and a day of shopping at Forever 21.
While its most recent comeback might still give many nightmares, peplum’s history has a lot to show us about the resilience of the look.
“Peplum” — or “peplos” — is a Greek word for “tunic,” according to textile conservator Margaret O’Neill. It’s associated with Greco-Roman dress, known for its layered effect created through a heavy piece of fabric, folded over the upper edge of the tunic. Despite its roots, fashion historians mostly associated peplum with the 19th century, when styles of dress accentuated a “full hip,” according to O’Neill: “But they would not have called that a peplum.”
One of the first documented uses of the term is found in an 1860s issue of Godey’s Lady Book, an American women’s magazine published from 1830 to 1878, that showed bodices featuring curved hip extensions. In its early iterations, the peplum detailing was attached to an overskirt sewn onto the waist and, according to O’Neill, pointed — unlike most modern versions that are attached to the tops and appear to have a ruffled silhouette. It wasn’t until the 1930s and 1940s that the modern version became popular, with jackets being fitted at the waist and extending beyond the hips as an overskirt, as a result of the popularity of Christian Dior’s “New Look.” Soon after, peplum became attached to everything from dresses to tops and power suits.
Despite it being remembered as a cringe-y street style and music festival circuit trend, there were some notable examples in the early 2010s. Brands like Jil Sander, Peter Pilotto, and Alexander McQueen championed futuristic and geometric iterations on the runway with curvy overskirts, 3-D printed peplum tops, and asymmetrical peplum dresses.
This season, it’s Givenchy taking the lead. The spring 2022 collection by Matthew Williams featured peplum jackets as the lineup’s centerpiece with heavy zippers, as well as corseted mini dresses with layered details. Meanwhile, Christian Siriano opted for a more sleek look with monochrome pantsuits with asymmetrical elements on the jackets. Dior’s take reminded the fashion world of the peplum’s 20th-century origins with styles reminiscent of the house’s “New Look” silhouette, this time styled with mini skirts. For fall 2022, Proenza Schouler also played with this style, creating a peplum-looking dress by enlisting contrasting fabrics on strapless dresses, as well as pointy, voluminous bulges on long-sleeve tops.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 07: A model walks the runway for the Christian Siriano SS2022 Fashion Show at Gotham Hall on September 07, 2021 in New York City (Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images for Christian Siriano)
While peplum is often thought of as a “love-to-hate” trend, its place in fashion history proves that it’s a look that isn’t going anywhere. I dare say, it’s a classic. “I think there is something to be said about women historically using peplum as a way to create that hourglass silhouette,” says O’Neill, adding that, while we may remember its recent popularity as a cringe-inducing trend, there’s a vast history of examples that show how sophisticated and timeless peplum can be.
To prove that, designers today are making sure that only the most innovative takes on the trends — from asymmetrical blazer hemlines to belted suits that embody a more grown-up aesthetic — make their way to our closets. And, more importantly, stay there for decades to come.
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When it comes to sharing fashion content across multiple social media platforms, clothing hauls are a crowd favorite. Usually, it’s a person talking about a package that they received from their favorite brand or their latest purchases from a shopping spree. In Olivia Joan Galli’s case, she recently began sharing videos featuring items that she received from her late grandmother’s wardrobe. Her grandmother, Joan B. Johnson, was the co-founder of Johnson Products Company along with her husband George Johnson; the couple founded the company in 1954 and went on to provide products essential to the Black hair community like Ultra Sheen and Afro Sheen.
Previously, Galli made “get ready with me” TikTok videos, asking her audience what she should wear out for dates. Now, her followers are passionately engaging with her late grandmother’s stunning fashion pieces, which Galli has photos of her grandmother wearing. (One such unforgettable picture shows a shiny gold dress that her grandmother once donned to meet then-President Bill Clinton at the White House).
Galli’s grandmother owned many designer pieces from the likes of Donna Karen, Manolo Blahnik, and Karl Lagerfeld, and it’s refreshing to see them being passed down and preserved. Her videos exemplify sustainability in a way that’s not always discussed; these items were her grandmother’s history, but now she gets to incorporate them into her wardrobe as her own. Galli spoke with Unbothered about her relationship with her grandmother, plans for some of the vintage items she’s inherited, and her unique identity beyond her viral TikTok videos.
Unbothered: What inspired you to film TikTok videos after you received your late grandmother’s fashion pieces?
Olivia Joan Galli: “I started making videos, specifically the ‘get ready with me’ type, because I was going on a date with an ex-boyfriend, and none of my friends were responding to my texts on what I should wear. I thought it’d be cool if I asked people on the internet to respond. Funny enough, in [one of my videos], I was wearing her shoes. I was already incorporating her style into my videos and my wardrobe. I would clarify which items were my grandmother’s because I didn’t want people thinking I was a 24-year-old baller buying Chanel. And naturally, people started asking who my grandmother was.”
Now that you’ve inherited some of these designer pieces, have brands reached out to you?
“No, not really. But, I am going to be Louis Vuitton’s social media ambassador, and someone who still works with British designer Zandra Lindsey Rhodes told me that the green dress I wore with the deep v cut is [actually] the back of [the dress], so that was really cool.”
How did your grandmother’s style influence you when you were growing up? Were there any style tips she passed down to you?
“The only thing my grandmother always told me is that you have to always look good because we’re Black, and people are constantly looking at you. Always look sharp and always have your hair done nicely. Even when my grandmother was in hospice, she’d get her hair done every Friday at noon. She always had to look sharp and always had to have her red lipstick on — I’d put rollers in her hair at night, too. Even if she was feeling bad, she always had to look good because when you look good, you feel good.”
How do you see yourself incorporating these pieces into your everyday style ?
“I’m that type of person where I’ll go to lunch with my friends, and I’ll wear whatever I want, no matter if I’m ‘over-dressed’. I wear them just because I want to feel pretty or because I feel confident that day, so I wear a lot of these pieces on a daily basis. In my opinion, these pieces don’t always have to be for special occasions. They should just be seen on a daily because they are meant to be worn. I also don’t get invited to that many special events, so if I do wait on those days, they’re just going to be sitting in my closet.”
What do you want people to know about who you are? Tell us about your photography.“
In terms of my photography, my whole thing is starting a conversation about Black folks in a different way, and it can be uncomfortable at times. But I think I have the voice for that, coming from my family background. Growing up, when I looked through magazines and I would see Black women, it was always in these two extremes: either very stereotypical or very whitewashed. Because of my speech impediment [that I’ve worked on really well], and because I’m a slow learner, expressing my emotions was always a struggle for me. Through photography, I’ve been able to show people how I feel. Before I photographed my mom for the first time, I was never able to tell her how I actually felt about her. She raised three kids as a single Black mother, and I was able to share how I saw her and how beautiful she is through my photography. Although she may not see herself like that, I wanted her to know she should start seeing herself in that way.”
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Prior to March 2020, the world looked completely different, and so did our personal style. Most mornings, we’d wake up early to gear up to face the world — dabbing on makeup or putting on some version of workwear before running out the door to go to the office. But as the coronavirus pandemic upended, well, everything, our daily routines changed, too.
While at first, many of those lucky to work from home were thrilled to trade their intricate getting-ready routines and corporate uniforms for a ponytail and soft pants, as the novelty wore off and reality set in, so did the craving to express ourselves through clothes. In turn, many picked up tie-dye shirt projects, knitting sessions, and embroidery as a tool to soothe their emotions and keep moving forward amid the chaos.
As witnessed through a myriad of Instagram posts and Zoom conversations, people all started dressing for comfort, not style. A sea of bike shorts, matching sweatsuits, and nap dresses emerged — with their accompanying face masks, of course — signaling that amid a pandemic dressing up was a means for survival, whether was through escapism or just plain protection against a virus.
“People were thinking, ‘How are my clothes helping to shape me during this time?’” says fashion psychologist and author Shakaila Forbes-Bell, adding that the notes of nostalgia and fantasy witnessed during the early days of the pandemic are manifestations of that. Take, for example, the viral tie-dye trend that had everyone DIY-ing clothes at home like a middle school project or aesthetics like cottagecore and angelcore that invited everyone on a make-believe trip to utopia. “It was a process of grieving certain comforts and then finding new ones,” says psychologist DaShelle Grant, a clinician at the online therapy service Thriveworks, who also explores the relationship between clothing and mental health. “I think in different articles of clothing, we can hold on to something, anything.”
The data backs this relationship between clothing, memory, and identity: A 2018 study published in the International Journal of Fashion Studies found that clothing is embedded with “personal meaningfulness” that reflects “personal development and autobiographical narratives.” Two years into the pandemic, the items that have brought comfort are also reminders of the months-long lockdowns and life-changing decisions that marked this time.
“A few years ago, my best friend Z was going through a really tough time after breaking up with his girlfriend. I would go around to his house every day after work and just sit with him so he wasn’t alone. One day, it was unexpectedly cold, and I asked to borrow a hoodie. When he saw how happy I was in it, he said I could wear it home and bring it back the next day. I ‘forgot,’ and somehow, when I packed up to move to the Middle East a few months later, the hoodie ended up in my suitcase. I haven’t seen Z since December 2019. He gives the best hugs, and when I was going through a shitty breakup of my own here in the Middle East, feeling very alone, Z told me to call him every time I felt like calling my ex. But all I wanted was a hug. His sweatshirt was the best substitute for that. It’s something about the weight and coziness of it that physically feels like being hugged, and it’s silly because it’s just fabric and doesn’t even smell like him anymore, but whether I put it on because I’m sad or I’m cold, that sweatshirt has got me through two and a half years apart and missing him all the time.” — Hannah
“I love these shorts because they’re a little compressive, super high-rise, and a decent length. More than that, though, wearing these shorts helped me normalize my body. I’m plus-size and have always been surrounded by thin people with body confidence issues. So if the people around me are a size 4 and 6 and self-conscious about their legs, how am I supposed to feel about my size 18 legs and cellulite? So these Girlfriend Collective bike shorts were comfortable, supportive, prevented the dreaded chub rub, and went with everything. Over time, I got so used to seeing my legs (and cellulite!) in them, that it didn’t faze me. Being able to go through this ‘normalization’ on my own in lockdown was amazing, because I built up enough confidence that, when it came time to go into the world in shorts, I’d already overcome the fears of other people staring. I didn’t care anymore.” — Kristina Carrodeguas
The High School Hoodie
“It’s not really a good hoodie. It’s very thin now. It’s been worn to death. It’s not something I’ll ever wear out of the house because it just doesn’t look good. I [got it when I] went to a boarding school — a prep school — so it was very, like, blazer, khaki type of people, and I was always a goth scene kid. And so I was very attached to the clothes that I had because I was different. I spent a lot of time in the basement of the library, curled up in my head with my headphones on because I felt very alone on campus. I’m a very different person now… I don’t feel as alone as I did, but there is a certain [comfort] element of retreating into the hoodie. I can’t really explain it.” — Christina Orlando
The Break-Free Tie-Dye Sweatshirt
“Lockdown was very strict and long in Puerto Rico. I had never worn a sweatshirt before; I’m big-chested, and I always felt like it wasn’t for me. A friend of mine bought a tie-dye set, and I suddenly thought it was cute. I can’t remember where I got this one, but it was soon after the lockdown started. I couldn’t take it off. I still don’t. My style before the pandemic was based on my work — I was a public defender — so it was very serious. But suddenly, I was shopping for comfort. Two years later, I’m studying in Sweden, wearing a tie-dye sweatshirt every day. ” — Liza Rosado
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