At this point you can assume every trend from the 2000s will have its day in the sun — but even amid this ongoing revival, the east-west bag showed its potential for much longer staying power this year. Pun intended.
Defined by its sleek, oblong shape and ultra functionality, the silhouette really gained traction in 2004 when Jean Paul Gaultier introduced an elongated Birkin at his first show as creative director of Hermès. (It’s referred to as the JPG Shoulder Birkin.) At the time, the Fendi Baguette was at its peak, thanks to an endorsement from one Carrie Bradshaw a few years after its debut. However, as the decade went on, oversized statement bags pushed these more minimal styles to the side — until quiet luxury came along and conquered fashion.
Last year, Hermès smartly capitalized on this shift by rereleasing its trendsetting east-west Birkin for spring/summer 2024. A slew of horizontal styles followed, from Alaïa’s Le Teckel to Khaite’s Simona to Bottega Veneta’s Andiamo riff on the silhouette.
As a result, luxury resale destinations have seen a significant uptick in interest for pre-loved originals. On eBay, UK searches for the silhouette have increased by 150% this year. In its annual resale report, released earlier this month, Fashionphile reports that searches for Chanel east-west bags increased by 333%, while sales of Louis Vuitton east-west bags went up by 142% this past year.
“The bag appeals to consumers looking for a piece that transitions easily between casual and formal settings,” Landyn Tedrick, Fashionphile’s site merchandising specialist, tells Refinery29. “This versatility, along with its sleek and minimalist aesthetic, has made it a favorite among our younger consumers.” (Tedrick identifies Fendi’s Baguette as “the east-west bag’s biggest competitor within the luxury resale market” as “both bags offer sleek, compact designs perfect for transitioning between day and night, and both have experienced a resurgence in popularity thanks to the revival of early 2000s fashion and celebrity endorsements.”)
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The east-west silhouette is a happy medium between two dueling styles: the micro mini and the more-is-more shoulder bag (think: Jacquemus’ micro Le Chiquito and Balenciaga’s maximalist Cagole). Over on #handbagtiktok, savvy creators like @re.tyche and @celesta have praised its versatility.
The trend isn’t going anywhere in the new year. For spring/summer 2025, Jil Sander brought out embellished versions, while Louis Vuitton offered a strappy, vintage-inspired iteration. The endorsement of It Girls like Charli XCX, Kendall Jenner and Ayo Edebiri doesn’t hurt, either.
If you’re shopping for your first east-west, we’d point you to The Row’s Abby and Savette’s Symmetry Pochette, which serve quiet luxury realness with their minimalist detailing. Magda Butrym’s Brigitte Trapeze packs a subtle statement with its floral embellishments, while the bamboo top handle on Jil Sander’s Goji is a structural dream. @Celesta’s favorite east-west bags are her Dior Lady D-Joy and two Freja New York styles: the Caroline and the Chrystie.
From the silhouette’s easy styling to its various price points, the east-west bag makes a major case for becoming your next wardrobe staple — if it isn’t already.
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