Monday, September 14, 2020

Pyer Moss, Telfar & Christopher John Rogers Are CFDA Fashion Award Winners

On Monday, during the first-ever digital NYFW, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) announced the winners of the 2020 Fashion Awards. And despite some worry that this year’s winners would look all too similar to those in years past — The Row, Marc Jacobs, and Tom Ford, who have all won multiple times, were nominated again this year — the announcement didn’t disappoint, with three Black designers taking home the ultimate prize in their respective categories: Christopher John Rogers, Telfar Clemens, and Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond.

After announcing that Kim Jones, Dior’s creative director of menswear and the new artistic director of Fendi womenswear, had won International Menswear Designer of the Year and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino had won the same category for womenswear, Tom Ford, the Chairman of the CFDA, revealed the winner for the new American Emerging Designer of the Year award: Christopher John Rogers. The category made waves back in July for including a fresh list of designers among an otherwise-been-there-done-that roster. In addition to Christopher John Rogers, who was also the winner of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, it included Kenneth Nicholson, Peter Do, and Reese Cooper. 

“I’m incredibly humbled and honored to receive the CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year Award for 2020. Thank you very much to Chairman @tomford and all of the hardworking folks at the @CFDA for your tremendous encouragement and continued support. Thank ya’ll for getting it,” Rogers wrote on Instagram following his win. The designer, whose fall ‘20 NYFW show was the talk of fashion month, was recently worn by Lady Gaga at the 2020 MTV VMAs. His designs were also featured in a number of September issues, including Zendaya’s InStyle editorial, Tessa Thompson’s Porter cover, and Hunter Schafer’s shoot for Allure

Next up was the award for American Accessories Designer of the Year, which regularly sees Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s luxury brand The Row crowned victor. After losing the category to the two last year, Telfar Clemens, the designer behind the “Bushwick Birkin” Shopping Bag, was selected as the winner. This win for Telfar is well-deserved, given the year that Clemens and his brand have had thus far, which includes multiple record sell-outs of the bag and AOC’s seal of approval, among other high points. 

Another former CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winner won an award in the American Menswear Designer of the Year category on Monday. Jean-Raymond, the founder and creative director of Pyer Moss, beat out a competitive list of nominees that included Emily Bode for Bode, Thom Browne, Todd Snyder, and Tom Ford. And this wasn’t even his first award this week. On Sunday, Jean-Raymond was honored at Harlem’s Fashion Row Style Awards and Fashion Show with the Designer of the Year Award. “We’ve done some incredible shit,” he wrote on Instagram, after calling out members of his team. “More still, god willing.” 

According to a press release, each of the winners in the four American categories — Christopher John Rogers, Telfar Clemens, Kerby Jean-Raymond, and Gabriela Hearst, who won the American Womenswear Designer of the Year Award — are taking home their first-ever CFDA Fashion Awards today. (Hearst is the first female designer to win the womenswear prize since 2015, as well as the only female winner in 2020.) As it stands, this is the most diverse group of recipients in the awards’ 39-year-history. 

See all the nominations and winners below.

American Womenswear Designer of the Year:

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Brandon Maxwell

Gabriela Hearst

Marc Jacobs

Tom Ford

American Menswear Designer of the Year:

Emily Adams Bode for Bode

Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss

Thom Browne

Todd Snyder

Tom Ford

American Accessories Designer of the Year:

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Gabriela Hearst

Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry

Stuart Vevers for Coach

Telfar Clemens for Telfar

American Emerging Designer of the Year:

Christopher John Rogers

Kenneth Nicholson

Peter Do

Reese Cooper

Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud

Global Women’s Designer of the Year:

Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta

Dries Van Noten

Miuccia Prada for Prada

Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

Rick Owens

Global Men’s Designer of the Year:

Craig Green

Dries Van Noten

Jonathan Anderson for Loewe

Kim Jones for Dior

Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton

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These 16 Costumes Are Going To Be Everywhere This Halloween

Despite 2020 putting a halt on many things, there have still been plenty of moments — from TV shows and movies to memes — that are now just waiting to be turned into Halloween costume gold. We know, we know, Halloween is scary this year — and not because of things that go “boo!” in the dark. Costume parties full of masked (and not the protective kind) strangers and kids going door-to-door to collect candy out of a community bucket are (understandably) less appealing this year. But just because you might be skipping out on the usual Halloween festivities this season, doesn’t mean you can’t still win Best Costume from the comfort of your home. (We’re living in the Zoom age, after all.)

And we have the costume ideas to get you there. For a newsworthy look, turn yourself into Twitter's “Boyfriend Cliff.” On the TV and music front, 2020 has also provided us with plenty of fodder for costume making, from Netflix’s hit shows Tiger King and Cheer to this year’s top music videos, including “WAP,” “Watermelon Sugar,” and “Cardigan.” And, of course, there are plenty of Black Is King outfits to reference on All Hallow’s Eve. Kudos if you can hit them all. 

Ahead, click through for 16 ideas you need to win that Best Costume award. Be sure to call dibs: Given how much time we spent tweeting and talking about these moments in 2020, you can bet they'll be everywhere.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Head-To-Toe Tie-Dye


One of the simplest ways to solve a Halloween costume dilemma is to look at what you already own. And after a lockdown like this one, if there’s one thing we have in flux, it’s tie-dye, well, everything. Over the last seven months, tie-dye sweatshirts, sweatpants, T-shirts, and more have all skyrocketed in popularity. Tie-dye masks are also trending, as are tie-dye socks and tie-dye scrunchies. You name it, it’s tie-dye. So, rather than going out and spending money on a costume this Halloween, simply cover yourself in every tie-dye purchase you made during quarantine. Or, you know, dress up as the result of the other most popular activity of quarantine: sourdough bread.


Reformation Tanner Classic Hoodie, $, available at Reformation

Reformation Classic Sweatpant, $, available at Reformation


Urban Outfitters Shibori Tie-Dye Crew Sock, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Carole Baskin From Tiger King


Hey all you cool cats and kittens, it’s about time you start thinking about how exactly you’re going to dress up like the great Carole Baskin from the Netflix smash hit, Tiger King: Murder, Mayhem, and Madness, this Halloween. On the bright side, dressing up as the owner of Big Cat Rescue isn’t all that complicated. Rather, all you really need is a leopard print muumuu, a flower crown, and a long, straight wig. Bonus if you bring along a four-legged furry friend. Photo: Courtesy of Netflix.


BeChicaChic Bohemian Flower Crown Blossoms Headband, $, available at Etsy


Harriet Carter Waltz Length Muumuu with Pockets, $, available at Harriet Carter

Megan Thee Stallion & Cardi B From "WAP" Music Video


In early August, Megan Thee Stallion and Cardi B teamed up to grant us with a music video and accompanying track unlike any we’ve seen or heard before, “WAP,” made “for the freaks, by the freaks,” according to R29 entertainment writer Ineye Komonibo. Featuring some unforgettable looks, the video included a custom leopard print Mugler corset on Cardi B; matching pink and yellow feathered bodysuits by Nicolas Jebran for both artists; and a Naomi Campbell-inspired getup, involving a houndstooth bodysuit by Venus Prototype Latex, on Normani. Personally, we suggest the python scene, which would involve wearing lace-up heels and a cut-out lingerie onesie in either jade green or mustard yellow. And a snake! 


SheIn Floral Lace Underwire Garter Lingerie Set, $, available at SheIn


Fancydressforyou Snake Coiled, $, available at Fancydressforyou


Urban Outfitters Alexa Strappy Sandal, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Zoë Kravitz As Rob Brooks From High Fidelity


No TV show in 2020 has come close to the level of style presented on the set of Hulu’s adaptation of Nick Hornby’s beloved novel High Fidelity. From her signature leather trench coat and roughed-up leather loafers to her many Hawaiian shirts and pleated tennis skirts, Rob, played by none other than Zoë Kravitz, exemplifies Brooklyn’s finest fashion. And this Halloween, so can you. Buy yourself a hunter green pleated mini, pair it with an unbuttoned Hawaiian shirt, and throw a leather jacket over top. Voila! Photo: Courtesy of Hulu.


NastyGal Check Your Coat Faux Leather Trench Coat, $, available at NastyGal


Old Navy Relaxed-Fit Printed Short-Sleeve Camp Shirt, $, available at Old Navy


American Apparel Gabardine Tennis Skirt, $, available at Amazon

Boyfriend Cliff


Following the reveal of his science fair-looking model of the COVID-19 curve during a June press briefing, New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo presented another art project in the form of an illustrated poster. And alongside Donald Trump hanging out on the moon and a giant nose being swabbed, was a tiny man dangling off the side of the mountain, titled "Boyfriend Cliff." Naturally, many Twitter users had questions and theories about it, causing the phrase to go viral. To recreate the moment this Halloween, print the poster out and wear it on your shirt (or write #BoyfriendCliff on it with a marker), and desperately cling to something — props if it's a mountain made out of paper mache.


J.Crew Factory Washed Jersey Tee, $, available at J.Crew Factory


Staples Staples Poster Board, 22" x 28" White, $, available at Staples

Amy, Jo, Beth, & Meg March From Little Women


Greta Gerwig’s adaptation of Little Women technically came out in December of last year, but its influence — especially in the fashion department — is too great to leave it off this list. The costumes, which won costume designer Jacqueline Durran an Academy Award, were a precursor to today’s top internet aesthetic, cottagecore, and its prairie dresses, nightgowns, and basket bags. So naturally, we want to celebrate both the trends and the film itself by putting on our nicest dress. 
Photo: Courtesy of Columbia Pictures.


H&M Short Dress, $, available at H&M


Violeta By Mango Puffed Sleeves Plumeti Dress, $, available at Mango


& Other Stories Smocked Crepe Maxi Dress, $, available at & Other Stories

Zoom Call Attire


If there’s one thing that we’ve become the most acquainted with in 2020, it’s Zoom calls — and dressing for them. Essentially, the rule of thumb when logging onto a Zoom call, whether it’s work- or social-related, is stylish on top, comfy on bottom, resulting in many a call that involves sweatpants below the screen and a button-down above it. And why should Halloween be any different? Just throw on your go-to sweats and your cleanest oxford shirt, and you’ll be good to go. If you’re feeling snarky, you can also attach a tag that says, “This call will end in 40 minutes.”


Lane Bryant Girlfriend Shirt, $, available at Lane Bryant


Richer Poorer Fleece Sweatpant, $, available at Richer Poorer

Beyoncé From Black Is King


Between its visually appealing set, stunning wardrobe (which was assembled by Zerina Akers and made up of mostly Black designers), and meaningful message, Beyoncé’s music-video-turned-short-film Black Is King captivated the internet upon its release in late July. During the film, Beyoncé wears everything from a Marine Serre moon-printed bodysuit and a cowhide corset to a crystal-covered poncho meant to mimic raindrops. And so can you. To reenact Queen Bey’s latter ensemble, all you need is a mesh top (or bodysuit) — preferably one with crystals on it — diamond-encrusted sunglasses, as much shiny jewelry as you can pile on, and a matching pair of mesh leggings. A crystal skirt is suggested. Photo: Courtesy of Disney+.


Youthly Labs The Embellished Rivets Sunglasses, $, available at Youthly Labs


Nasty Gal Star Cry Mesh Top, $, available at Nasty Gal


Fashion Nova Chained To My Heart Skirt, $, available at Fashion Nova

Lady Gaga At The MTV VMAs


Lady Gaga is always extra and never subtle on the red carpet. But her nine looks at the 2020 MTV VMAs were some of the most over-the-top we’ve seen yet. Along with nine different face masks (an essential Halloween accessory if you are going out), Gaga donned a crystal-covered bodysuit, a thorn-covered headdress, and a massive, feathered cape. You probably don’t have quick access to those things, so, to make recreating her VMAs look a bit easier, we suggest you copying her final ensemble: platforms, lace-up boots, a graphic T-shirt, and a spiked leather face mask. Safety first! Photo: Kevin Winter/MTV VMAs 2020/Getty Images for MTV.


Mewnews Lady Gaga '90s Retro Vintage T-Shirt, $, available at Etsy


Dolls Kill Blazing Chain Face Mask, $, available at Dolls Kill


Dolls Kill Lost N' Never Found Platform Boots, $, available at Dolls Kill

Harry Styles From "Watermelon Sugar" Music Video


Harry Styles released the music video for his single “Watermelon Sugar” at the perfect time. Mid-quarantine, we needed a break, as well as a reminder of what life was like pre-COVID. And that’s exactly what Styles, singing a bop on the beach while surrounded by beautiful people in beautiful, summery outfits eating watermelon slices, gave us. So, to commemorate the kind gesture, we’re making the looks from his video — which include grandpa sweater vests paired with ‘70s-era collared shirts, crop tops worn alongside distressed jeans, and Hawaiian shirts unbuttoned to show off Styles’ signature pearls — the costumes of Halloween 2020. Top whatever look you decide on with a pair of Gucci sunglasses.


JewelzSteele Vintage Blue Glossy Oversize Glasses, $, available at Etsy


TheScarvinArtist Not Yo Grannys Crochet Sweater, $, available at Etsy

Marianne Sheridan and Connell Waldron From Normal People


If you’re looking for an easy, yet recognizable costume this Halloween, look no further than the characters in Hulu’s Normal People. During the first few episodes of the debut season, Marianne Sheridan and Connell Waldron navigate private school in Sligo, Ireland, in drab school uniforms, which include a gray button-down shirt and a striped tie. To mimic your favorite fictional couple of 2020, all you need are those two back-of-your-closet items, a charcoal skirt or pair of slacks — and, of course, a silver chain necklacePhoto: Courtesy of Hulu.


Uniqlo Rayon Long-Sleeve Blouse, $, available at Uniqlo


Mejuri Double Curb Chain Necklace, $, available at Mejuri


Tie Mart Red and Golden Yellow Striped Skinny Tie, 2" Width, $, available at Tie Mart

Mark Zuckerberg Sunscreen Face


In July, while many of us were inside our apartments and not in Hawaii surfing on an electric surfboard, billionaire Mark Zuckerberg was and that wasn’t all he got roasted for. Photos of the Facebook founder surfing off of the island of Kauai emerged online the following day showing the fourth richest man in the world absolutely covered in sunblock — so much sunblock, in fact, that it appeared photoshopped on. As you probably remember, the internet was flush with memes. Since it’s genuinely difficult to find a sunscreen that opaque these days, we suggest using face paint. Photo: Mega.


NYX Cosmetics SFX Crème Color, $, available at Nyx Cosmetics

Navarro Cheerleaders From Cheer


If you’re going to channel the members of Navarro’s champion cheerleading squad, you have to go all out. That’s the rule. Which means: You’ll have to buy an entire cheerleading uniform and wear it with pride. Add some school spirit by topping your very high ponytail with a Navarro bow. And don’t you dare forget your lashes. Photo: Courtesy of Netflix.


Navarro Navarro Future National Champ Bow in Red, $, available at Rebel Athletic


Omni Cheer GK All Star Invincible Top, $, available at Omni Cheer

Omni Cheer GK All Star Invincible Skort, $, available at Omni Cheer

JW Anderson’s Viral TikTok Cardigan

If you, like millions of people around the world, frequent the content black hole that is TikTok, you’ve probably seen some version of this nearly $2,000 patchwork cardigan designed by JW Anderson. That’s because following Harry Styles’ appearance on the TODAY show, thousands of Gen Z DIYers took to their local Joanne Fabrics to gather the necessary materials to make one of their own, thus starting the #HarryStylesCardigan challenge. And given that it’s still pretty early in the season, there’s still time for you to do the same (the pattern can be found here) before October 31. Or you could always buy an already made one from Etsy.Photo: Nathan Congleton/NBC/NBCU Photo Bank via Getty Images.


Golden_12 Harry Styles Cardigan, $, available at Mercari


Mary Maxim Store Mary Maxim Twinkle Yarn, $, available at Amazon

Taylor Swift From "Cardigan" Music Video


In July, Taylor Swift once again broke the internet when she released her eighth studio album, Folklore. Alongside the release was the music video for the record’s first single, a song titled “Cardigan” which showed Swift climbing into a piano, tearing through the woods, and thrashing in strong currents — all while wearing a quarantine-approved Nap dress. At the end of the video, she slipped on a cardigan, which you can still buy on her website. (Shortly after the release of the merch, the cardigan design was changed after similarities between the logo of The Folklore, a retailer that sells Black-owned and Africa-made clothing and accessories, and the one on Swift's sweater were pointed out.)


Taylor Swift The “Cardigan", $, available at Taylor Swift Store


Hill House Home The Ellie Nap Dress, $, available at Hill House Home

Animal Crossing Avatars


Another simple Halloween costume that’ll still bring in a lot of likes? Dressing up as your own Animal Crossing character. Hear us out: All you have to do to take your own everyday wardrobe and make it AC-friendly is head to the local supermarket and pick up some turnips. To really round out the look, borrow a watering can from your next-door neighbor (don’t forget to sanitize). Since you’ll probably spend most of Halloween night actually playing Animal Crossing rather than, I don’t know, partying(?), why not dress the part, too?


The Sill Watering Can, $, available at The Sill

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Harlem’s Fashion Row NYFW Event Was A Celebration Of Black Talent

NEW YORK, NY – FEBRUARY 06: CEO and Founder of Harlem’s Fashion Row, Brandice N. Daniel attends IMG and Harlem Fashion Row Host “Next Of Kin”: An Evening Honoring Ruth E. Carter at Spring Studios on February 6, 2019 in New York City. (Photo by Anna Webber/Getty Images for IMG)

On Sunday, to kick off spring ’21 New York Fashion Week, Harlem’s Fashion Row, a platform designed to support and amplify Black creatives in fashion, held its 13th annual Style Awards and Fashion Show. Despite being forced to go digital as a result of the pandemic, the event was as energetic and inspiring as any of the in-person awards that came before it. The event included three collections — presented by designers Richfresh, Kimberly Goldson, and Kristian Lorén — as well as a red carpet pre-show and an award ceremony — honoring Teen Vogue Editor-in-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner, Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, publicist Nate Hinton, and British Vogue’s Editor-in-Chief Edward Enninful — which were all open to the public through the CFDA virtual runway platform Runway 360.

“We’ve gone global overnight,” Brandice Daniel, Harlem’s Fashion Row’s founder, told Refinery29 over Zoom a few days before the show. “I’m excited that the world will really get to see what I’ve known all along, which is how talented designers of color are.”

During the event, Daniel announced the theme of this year’s show, “Black is the New Black,” a reminder that designers of color have always been around, designing beautiful pieces that far too often go unnoticed. “We haven’t just arrived,” she said. “Designers of color have stood the test of time, [… and] we are steadfast, unmovable, and here to stay.” 

One designer that Daniel reached out to for the event was Rich Henry, or Fresh, an L.A.-based designer whose brand Richfresh is beloved by celebrities including The Weeknd, Lena Waithe, and Gabrielle Union, and known for its luxury suiting and expert tailoring. Fresh’s first NYFW collection included the label’s signature suits in bright colorways and over-the-top patterns, as well as silk robes, a new genre for the designer. Over Zoom, Fresh, dressed in one of the new robes, said that, for the collection, he explored the concept of Black luxury, and wanted to “just really show an opulent way of living.” Other standouts included silk headscarves in soft citrus colors and a yellow co-ord that combined the brand’s signature formal tailoring with the laid-back preppy aesthetic. Fresh said that it’s “surreal” to have shown for the first time at NYFW: “I’m just a kid from Memphis who said, ‘You know what? I have to try this out. I have to give this a shot.’ But I felt like there was something out there for me, and it’s fascinating to see that come to fruition.” 

“Designers of color have stood the test of time, [… and] we are steadfast, unmovable, and here to stay.” 

– Brandice Daniel, Founder of Harlem’s Fashion Row

Kristian Lorén, a womenswear designer known for ‘70s-inspired (with a hint of ‘90s) dresses and suits who also made her NYFW debut, shared in that sentiment. “I didn’t know that my dream would come to fruition during a pandemic, but it’s all good,” she said. “The dream is still here — it’s coming true. And I’m just happy to be present and be able to pull this off.” Due to the pandemic, Lorén had to change her designs to better fit her customers’ needs. “No matter what race, what creed, what financial situation — [in 2020], we all had to sit still because things were affecting us all,” she said. “For me, that meant I had to ask myself, What are we selling? How is it helping people?” Her response was to start designing masks and create pieces that were made to help women feel beautiful in this new Zoom age, utilizing silhouettes and colors that stand out as much virtually as they do in-person.

Kimberly Goldson, a Brooklyn-based designer, rounded out the night’s designer showcase with a collection for “women who dare to be bold and vivacious,” she said during the live show. “But with a little touch of Brooklyn girl magic.” Inspired by the beauty of Black hair, her fall line was meant to be something that other “Black women could be proud of,” tying back to the night’s theme.

“HRF is our lifeline in an industry that didn’t acknowledge us for so long,” Lorén said. “They see us, they hear us, they know us. And it’s a visual reminder that Black designers and creators exist, and we have a lot to offer.” At HFR events, which occur throughout the year and culminate in the Style Awards and Fashion Show, Black creatives in fashion, from stylists and editors to models and designers, are brought together in what Goldson describes as a “Black fashion family reunion.” It’s where those who’ve spent most of their careers feeling like “the only Black girl,” as Lorén puts it, can come together and see others like them thriving in their respective fields. “It was very lonely,” she said. “But HFR gives you a community — a safe space — that will help you succeed. It’s time that the Black community be represented in fashion, to let everyone know that we are well overqualified to do this.”

While challenging — between the pandemic and the current fight for racial justice — Daniel said that 2020 has had its upsides. “At the top of the year, when everyone was writing out their goals for 2020, I was writing my goals for HFR for the decade,” she said. Upon looking back at those goals pre-show, Daniel realized that about half of them have already been achieved, just nine months into the year. “I’ve had to really dream new dreams,” she said. “Right now, designers of color have access, check. Designers of color have mentoring, check. They have more visibility, OK great, and they have funding. What else is needed?” she said. After thinking about the latter, she believes the answer is infrastructure — something that would allow Black designers to thrive in a sustainable, long-term way. With her newly launched nonprofit ICON360 — which was designed to help designers of color with the economic fallout from the pandemic — as well as virtual shows like this one — that allow viewers to discover designers like Fresh, Goldson, and Lorén — Daniel is providing just that, and creating a future landscape for designers of color that allows them to succeed.

“Think about this,” Fresh said, smiling. “For Harlem’s Fashion Row to be opening New York Fashion Week, which, as we know, is not a Black establishment, it shows the moves that are willing to be made [within the fashion industry].” And while the events of 2020 had a hand in that change, after 13 years spent advocating for designers of color, it’s Daniel and HFR that the industry truly has to thank.

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