This year, trends have taken a turn for utilitarian with cargo pants, denim in all its forms, and wearable silhouettes all endorsed by the 2023 shows. That’s not to say that this year is boring style-wise. Dramatic hem lengths and silver metallics are still part of the sartorial picture, albeit in more practical iterations than ever before. In terms of color, now that the Barbiemovie has come out in theaters, may we finally wave trendy hot pink goodbye, making way for new, exciting hues? Just don’t expect it to be all about Pantone’s color of the year Viva Magenta. Ahead, eight 2023 fashion trends to add to your shopping list from now and until the end of the year.
2023 Fashion Trend: Crochet
No trend was more ubiquitous on the spring/summer 2023 runways than crochet, with flowy dresses with fringe and open-weave tops appearing on catwalks of brands like Gabriela Hearst, Ulla Johnson, and Proenza Schouler. To extend the shelf life of the warm-weather trend, opt for timeless silhouettes and layerable pieces like crochet tanks that can be worn over long-sleeve turtlenecks and button-down shirts come winter.
2023 Fashion Trend: Red
TORY BURCH FW23 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 02/13/2023
Glossy red hues took over the Fall 2023 runways ranging from Sandy Liang and PatBo to Tory Burch and Wiederhoeft. Think: Juicy reds with vibrant orange undertones that would look just as good in head-to-toe looks (see: a pantsuit) as accent accessory pieces (trendy shoes, handbags, jewelry, etc.).
2023 Fashion Trend: Cargo Pants
Utilitarian wear is in for 2023, which set the stage for the return of the cargo pant this year. But these aren’t the shapeless, low-rise pants of the Y2K era. For warmer weather, this trend is translated into tailored silhouettes, interesting pocket placements, elevated fabrics like silk and organza, and colors that go beyond khaki and olive.
From double-waisted jeans to carpenter jeans, it’s been a while since we were this excited about denim trends. It seems like even the most luxe runway designers agree, sending out strapless dresses, shirting, and even undergarments and shoes (thigh-high-boot-jean hybrids anyone?) in the material. Whatever category you decide on, opt for timeless cuts and silhouettes that can stay in your closet rotation once the novelty wears off.
2023 Fashion Trend: Shine For The Daytime
The amount of shine on the 2023 runways would make you think we are back in the Roaring ’20s. While sequins may feel over as soon as the clock strikes midnight on January 31, this year, designers are making a case for “daytime shine” – wearable separates that can spice up even the most basic staples like tank tops (see above) and blue jeans. While this trend comes in all metallic shades (gold, bronze, rose gold etc.), we are partial to the liquid silver look that can double as a neutral.
In response to the ultra unpractical mini skirts of 2022, maxi skirts have dominated 2023. In line with the aforementioned cargo and denim trends, expect lots of low-rise, pocket-adorned silhouettes and floor-grazing jean skirts, as well as styles in various prints and unexpected materials like velvet. Long live long hemlines!
2023 Fashion Trend: Cobalt Blue
The strongest color story to come out of Spring 2023 runways, cobalt blue has burst through the collections with the freshness of a sea mist on a morning day. Just bright enough to warrant a double take, yet subtle enough to be worked into daily wear, it’s the type of deep blue that will excite even the most color-averse. Bonus points: It pairs well with Pantone’s Viva Magenta.
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While there’s still time to indulge in the Barbie-colored, mermaid-inspired, poolside-lounging looks of summer, come autumn we’ll quite literally be getting back to business as far as our closets (and schedules) are concerned. According to the fall 2023 collections, the best in fashion for the season ahead includes all things sleek and sophisticated, though not without opportunity for a sparkly twist.
Before the sun sets on summer styles, we’re getting a head start on our fall/winter attire by revisiting the biggest looks from the runways of New York to Paris and beyond. From Valentino betting big on shades of red to an enthusiastic embrace of serious suiting (and ties!) by the likes of Alexander McQueen and Dior, expect ensembles that are both bold and elevated this autumn. And for the shoppers among us who are shooting for the stars, there are looks straight out of the galaxy to help take your cold-weather dressing to new heights. Keep scrolling for a list of the top fall/winter 2023 trends to add to your closet now.
Fall Trend 2023: Business-Core
After a summer of channeling Ariel from The Little Mermaid, get ready for a Shiv Roy kind of a fall (Succession may be over, but its grip on the sartorial zeitgeist is not). Think: polished power suits, blazers over turtlenecks, button-downs, pencil skirts, and business totes. Dior, Alexander McQueen, Valentino and GCDS endorsed ties to complete the business core look, while Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Tods, and Marc Jacobs made a case for pinstripes.
Fall Trend 2023: Celestial Attire
If you’re looking for something a bit more whimsical than officewear, consider celestial attire for a more inspired seasonal wardrobe. From star-shaped embellishments at the newly rebranded (but always dazzling) Rabanne to planet prints and gravity defying-updos at Thom Browne to shimmering fabrics at Giambattista Valli and Gucci, and even bedazzled footwear, it’s all about galaxy glamour this fall.
Fall Trend 2023: Belts & Buckles
The bevy of belts and buckles on the fall/winter 2023 runways are likely derivatives of last season’s enthusiastic embrace of both utilitarian attire and biker fashion. The hardcore hardwear is an edgy upgrade for your shoes and accessories à la Givenchy, Alaïa, and Peter Do, but we’re also seeing these bold details turned into dress straps, fringed hems, and outfit enhancements and enclosures by designers like Monse and Blumarine.
Fall Trend 2023: Off-the-Shoulder Ensembles
There’s something innately romantic about putting on that cozy autumn knitwear as the leaves begin to change color. Add to that a visible hint of skin, and you’ve got yourself a look that’s anything but boring. Everyone from Rejina Pyo and Zimmerman to Victoria Beckham, Ralph Lauren, and Balmain is showing extra love to off-the-shoulder ensembles this fall in the form of floor-grazing frocks, structured tops, and, of course, classic knit sweaters.
Fall Trend 2023: Bright Tights
Add a daring pop of color to your fall/winter wardrobe with a pair of bright tights. There was hosiery in shades of orange and pink at Versace, green and blue at Miu Miu, purples at red at Rochas, and magenta and yellow at Rev. Added bonus: You don’t need a big budget to participate in this big-impact trend.
Fall Trend 2023: Red
Red really is the color of desire this season thanks to a number of standout looks by Valentino. The fashion house that was responsible for making Barbie Pink a thing way before the movie hit screens is now endorsing a new shade for the fall. And if that’s not reason enough to get behind all things love- and cherry-colored, perhaps the fact that industry heavyweights like Jacquemus, Stella McCartney, Lanvin, Loewe, and Prada are all on board will do the trick. The list goes on.
Fall Trend 2023: Neutral Layers
It is a simple fact of nature that, for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction (thanks, Sir Isaac Newton!). The rule applies to fashion, too. In response to the rise of Barbiecore in all its hot-pink glory this past spring and summer, the fall/winter runways were awash with ultra-wearable neutrals: whites and blacks, chocolates and creams, grays and dark greens. A signature of the perennially cool quiet luxury aesthetic, these sleek shades are making us want to max out on minimalism this season, as demonstrated by Marc Jacobs, Alaia, Paul Smith and Hermès.
Fall Trend 2023: Return of the 2010s
Style from the past few years has been largely defined by the Y2K trends that dominated the early 2000s, but we’re noticing a gradual and chronological shift toward fashion from the 2010s in more recent collections. See: trending high-low silhouettes (Versace and Rochas); peplum shapes (Brandon Maxwell and Tove); and ruffled, asymmetrical hemlines (Acne Studios and Coach).
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Black hairstyling is a lot of things: Genius? Yes. Innovative? Absolutely. Beautiful? Undoubtedly. But it’s rarely ever described as “effortless” — especially not in the way it’s meant for straight and wavy hair types (look up “bedhead hair” and “undone blonde” for those unfamiliar). Between braids that took 12 hours to complete, wash day detangling that literally took all day, and near-misses with the hot comb, many Black folks wear their effort like a badge of honor. And yet, “effortless” textured hair was a consistent theme at this year’s S/S ‘24 Copenhagen Fashion Week. Unbothered attended the celebrated fashion event last week to keep a close eye on emerging Black hair trends on the runway. Across the Spring/Summer 24 runway shows, the vibe was laid-back, with what I’m coining as ‘undone natural hair’. Black model’s kinky afros weren’t overly styled and coils weren’t defined, instead, hair was stretched just beyond shrinkage length and there was rarely a laid edge in sight.
For Scandinavian brand Sunflower’s SS/24 show, textured hair wasn’t manipulated into elaborate styles, and 4C curls weren’t defined or tamed with heavy-duty gels. Black models’ haircuts weren’t lined-up with razor-sharp precision as we’ve come to expect and praise in our Black barbershops. Elsewhere, at the glorious Stine Goya SS/24 show, bountiful afros weren’t pressed or slicked down into tight ponytails, unlike the hair of white and Asian models on the runway. Across collections, there wasn’t the typical identikit of hairstyles — locs, ‘fros, buns, bleach buzz cuts, and braids could be found on the same catwalk. This Copenhagen Fashion Week, Black models and their hair appeared free just to be.
To be ‘undone’ means no defining gels, no up-dos, no ponytails, no mohawks, no cornrows — simply washed, detangled, conditioned, brushed, picked healthy, beautiful afro hair.
Away from the protective bubble of fashion week, I wondered how the emerging ‘undone Black hair’ trend translates into real life. Remember when H&M shared an ad with a young Black girl whose hair wasn’t slicked down into a “neat” ponytail? There was genuine uproar. Maybe it’s because the word “undone” feels too close to “unkempt” — which, to clarify, isn’t what I’m talking about here. All Black folk know that a healthy natural afro takes a significant degree of work, commitment, and investment in great products and tools to maintain. It takes a lot of work to look so free. Yet, ‘undone natural hair’ in this context means type 4 ‘fros that haven’t been over-manipulated; not slicked or stretched, or styled and defined with the twist-out method. I know what you’re thinking, ‘haven’t you heard of the wash-n-go’? While similar to the undone natural hair trend, most popular wash-n-go methods are preoccupied with achieving curl definition, and for some 4C gworls, the results can be hit-and-miss (and feels more like a ‘wash-n-stay-home’). To be ‘undone’ means no defining gels, no up-dos, no ponytails, no mohawks, no cornrows — simply washed, detangled, conditioned, brushed, picked healthy, beautiful afro hair.
“We need to see more undone/ unmanipulated natural hair that’s not being put into another style. I hate when people talk about shrinkage as if it’s a bad thing.”
aMINATU TEXTURES
The trend for undone 4C hair has already been brewing amongst Black hair influencers with tightly coiled hair textures. On TikTok, creator Aminatu Textures shared her appreciation for her 4C hair in a video and stressed to her audience that “we need to see more undone/ unmanipulated natural hair that’s not being put into another style.” “I hate when people talk about shrinkage as if it’s a bad thing,” she explains in her video. “I almost feel it’s an insult to Black hair as if it’s not in its perfect state when there’s shrinkage. And I think it’s beautiful just the way it is.”
Many will remember when Black TikTok creator, @Lipglossssssssss, who has over one million followers, wore her hair in a completely shrunken state and resisted the desire to manipulate it with various products and techniques for it to be seen as acceptable. The videos went viral and she was praised for her candidness. Speaking to Unbothered last year, she said: “I started wearing my hair in its most natural state; tightly coiled because of shrinkage, not stretched, with no twist-outs, no “laid edges’, or protective styles, no manipulation. Just as is. I talked about how I was exploring the idea of living in my natural state especially when there’s shrinkage and my hair looks short. “I resented chasing “feminization” in the way I dress just to feel attractive and not “masculine” and I challenged my own fears of feeling less desirable and attractive wearing my hair this way.” The popular TikTok creator hoped that more Black women and girls would wear their hair in a similar way. “I do believe that if all the Black girls with 4C hair wore their hair shrunken at the same time then it’d be much easier, it would ease some of the anxiousness some feel when wearing your hair out for the first time. If all the girls do it, I swear in two years, people are going to think it’s cute.”
Thankfully, she isn’t alone. Many were inspired by Lipglossssssssss’ videos, with some commenting that she had inadvertently started a “shrunken, natural 4C hair movement.” In response to the viral video, TikTok creator Life of Deb said she learned to love her natural hair in an unmanipulated state by accepting “what my hair is and what it’ll never be.” For those struggling to do the same, she recommends taking pictures of their hair, not stretched, not slicked back, and as is. “Do your makeup, get all cute, and stare at pictures of yourself with your natural hair,” she says. “Try to find beauty in your face with your hair out.”
To wear your hair in its most natural state shouldn’t be revolutionary but for many Black women with 4C hair, like myself, we know that it is.
To wear your hair in its most natural state shouldn’t be revolutionary but for many Black women with 4C hair, like myself, we know that it is. While the natural hair movement has succeeded in allowing more Black people to embrace their curls and coils, for those with the tightest textures, there’s still some way to go when it comes to 4C hair representation. With that said, to be ‘undone’ goes one further than what many natural hair creators promote — it means showing up as yourself with no additional adornments. And, it’s something I’ve personally never done.
Between the endless pursuit to define type 4 curls, lay edges, and those of us who take our braids out as soon as any evidence of regrowth appears, there is an enduring pressure for Black women to have their hair done* (also read: tamed, smoothed, fixed) at all times. It’s easy to understand why. Hair discrimination in the Western world is rife, especially for those with type 4 hair textures, and, in some situations, the hair showcased on the Copenhagen catwalks wouldn’t necessarily be read as professional in corporate settings. As much as we try to stress that Black hair is perfect as is, internalized texturism means not everyone is comfortable with wearing their natural hair, entirely natural. Last year, Unbothered talked to Black women about feeling pressured to lay down their edges, with one Black woman admitting to writer Lola Christina Alao that “the obsession Black women have with looking perfect and polished can sometimes harm us,” she wrote. “We can end up being twice as harsh on each other for no reason. It’s become a requirement that slick edges are worn with natural or relaxed hair and we need to do more questioning as to why that is.”
Still, fashion helps to communicate with the rest of the world its latest beauty standards (for better and for worse). For CPHFW, showing Black hair in this way, in all its various shapes, curl patterns, and glory, made me feel a touch better about my own regrowth (which was struggling to stay slicked down under the blustering Copenhagen winds). Now, I am reevaluating what “done” hair means to me.
I appreciated CPHFW’s show of natural hair on the catwalk. Although, my initial skepticism wondered if this hair styling choice was intentional (I really doubt any statement was being made) or because, well, there were no other styling options. Black models are known to have a tough time backstage when it comes to hair. With some hairstylists unfamiliar with how to handle type 4 textures, Black models have been known to do their own hair, or even shave their heads for time and ease. Yet, this year Copenhagen Fashion Week was sponsored by Dyson, where its widely-praised Supersonic hairdryer was available backstage at every show. They used the hair dryer with the afro comb attachment to gently stretch out afro textures at the roots, whilst maintaining a finish that didn’t look overstretched.
“Backstage at the Sunflower SS24 menswear show we worked with a lot of natural texture. Creating extra volume at the roots by using the Dyson Supersonic hairdryer with the wide-tooth comb attachment. We comb out roots slightly and leave the ends untouched,” says Cim Mahoney, Founder of Mahoney Studio and Dyson’s Styling Ambassador. “Spraying the hair with hairspray at the same time as the supersonic with no attachments creates random “off” shapes that are not too perfect for a cool look. Something that looks easy, can be deceivingly [tricky]. Minutes before showtime we had a guy coming late from another show with cornrows. In four minutes and three Supersonic [hairdryers], we managed to take the cornrows to a natural coily look, thanks to the amazing wide tooth comb attachment.”
The process of unlearning negative associations when it comes to textured hair has come a long, long way. Whether on the runway or IRL, it seems we’re moving beyond the natural hair movement to something more fluid and free.
This article was originally published to Unbothered UK
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