On Thursday, Ivanka Trump hit up one of her usual haunts, the Oval Office, to witness the signing of a new technology bill. As the Trump family does little without the presence of a camera, Ivanka posed ever so stiffly for a photo that invited immediate comparisons to another authoritarian regime. She wore a teal pussy-bow dress in the same shade and silhouette as those worn by the wives of commanders in Gilead, the fictional dystopian version of the United States that exists in Hulu’s The Handmaid’s Tale, based on Margaret Atwood’s 1985 novel of the same name.
Soon after Ivanka posted the photo on her personal Instagram, Diet Prada followed suit, though the notorious fashion canceller didn’t stop at just that one photo. They added a selection of comparison images that portrayed just how eerily close in style and color Ivanka’s dress was to those worn by the show’s star wife Serena Joy Waterford (Yvonne Strahovski). Diet Prada even went as far as to describe the shade as “Gilead blue.”
The Handmaid’s Tale takes place in a zealously conservative and religious regime where powerful men called commanders control everything: women, reproduction, the food supply, thought, capital punishment, religion, and more. Commanders are assigned handmaids to bear their children; they rarely reproduce with their wives due to infertility (which is always blamed on the woman). Handmaids, clad in fiery red, represent sinful carnality and impersonal breeding vessels, who bring children into the world through ritualized rape ceremonies. Serena Joy is married to Commander Waterford (Joseph Fiennes), one of the most prominent leaders in Gilead. She wields his status like a weapon, especially because she also had a hand in crafting the regime. Serena Joy was once a well-regarded public speaker. Now, she’s relegated to the domestic sphere, cooing over other wives’ babies as she yearns for her own.
It’s debatable whether Serena Joy has truly realized the error of her — and Gilead’s — ways in later seasons of The Handmaid’s Tale, but she’s curried far more viewers’ favor than Ivanka has in the real world. “Unlike The Handmaid’s Tale, there are no writers that can offer Ivanka a redemption arc like they gave Serena Joy, the anti-feminist First Lady of Gilead who came to represent cowardice and complicity,” Diet Prada captioned the Instagram slideshow.
Unfortunately, while the similarities between the two dresses are certainly apparent to anyone who’s watched the show, it’s unlikely that Ivanka gave the outfit a second thought. According to Footwear News, this isn’t even the first time she’s worn the long-sleeved, ankle-length dress. She first debuted it in September at an election event in Pennsylvania. Though the First Daughter and apple of her dad’s eye probably wasn’t trying to conjure thoughts of Gilead, we’ll accept Diet Prada’s comparisons. The damage her father has done during his administration is a chilling reminder of Gilead’s controlling regime. But, blessed be the fruit, Trump’s reign will be over in a month, and we will no longer be under his eye.
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At this point, it shouldn't surprise you that dad trends are on the rise. Last year, we saw Hawaiian shirts, chunky sneakers, and Bermuda shorts — all of which were previously considered "lame" — make an appearance on the runways at fashion week and the street style parade outside. But the trend didn't stop there. The latest dad-inspired silhouette to get the style treatment? Sweater vests.
From Louis Vuitton and Coach to Tory Burch and The Row, so many designers are embracing the sweater vest this season. And the 2020 iteration doesn’t look anything like the ones stored in your dad's closet. The new sweater vest ranges from edgy to dainty, cropped to oversize; there’s really no end to the colors, fits, and styles you can choose from. So while you run the risk of showing up to dinner in the same look as your middle-aged father, at least you'll be doing so in style.
Ahead, see how designers incorporated sweater vests into their spring '21 collections and shop our favorite options that are available now.
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This story was originally published on September 24, 2020.
In September, Lily Collins took to Instagram to announce her engagement to Charlie McDowell, the film director who Collins has been dating since last summer. “I’ve been waiting my lifetime for you and I can’t wait to spend our lifetime together,” the Emily In Paris star wrote alongside a three-part slideshow of the proposal, which, it appears, McDowell performed mid-hike. The third photo shows a close-up of the show-stopping ring, a cushion-cut set on a yellow gold bezel band. McDowell also posted a photo — in which Collins is smiling while showing off her new jewelry — with the caption: “In a time of uncertainty and darkness, you have illuminated my life. I will forever cherish my adventure with you.”
According to Andrew Brown, the CEO of WP Diamonds, Collins’ ring features a 2-to-3 carat morganite center stone, “set in a diamond halo with a brushed yellow gold setting.” The stone itself is a cushion-cut, meaning that it has a “square or rectangular outline with rounded corners,” says another gem expert, Elizabeth Doyle of estate jewelry store Doyle & Doyle. But what’s perhaps more newsworthy than the popular stone shape is what it’s crafted out of. In the last few years, we’ve seen more and more jewelry designers embrace morganite as an affordable, yet nonetheless stunning alternative to diamonds. Morganite is a pink semi-precious stone in the beryl family, which also houses aquamarines and emeralds. Morganite gemstones have a high clarity rating, and, unlike diamonds, they won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Dare we continue?
After spending far too much time admiring Collins’s ring, we rounded up 13 morganite engagement rings that are similarly stunning. Click ahead to see her ring and maybe bookmark one of your own.
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Topshop, one of the buzziest stores of the last decade, has become the latest COVID casualty — and the one that hurts the most. This week, it was announced that the besieged Arcadia group, which also owns Dorothy Perkins, Wallis, Miss Selfridge, and Burton, had gone into administration, putting 13,000 jobs at risk. A decade ago, the idea that Topshop, the jewel in Arcadia’s crown, could be on the brink of collapse would have been unimaginable.
But somewhere along the way, Topshop lost its luster. The 90,000-square-foot Oxford Street emporium that was once the beating heart of London fashion, synonymous with cutting-edge clothes that could be worn by those both in and out of the industry, became just like any other fast fashion store, peddling unremarkable designs in cheap, disposable fabrics. My generation, once outfitted in head-to-toe Topshop, began to move onto fashion-forward, mid-range brands like & Other Stories or Ganni, while younger Gen Zers flocked to online retailers like ASOS and Boohoo, which had eclipsed Topshop with their ruthlessly low prices, rapid turnover, and savvy influencer marketing strategies.
At the start of the pandemic, Arcadia’s cancellation of over £100 million ($135 million USD) worth of clothing orders from suppliers in some of the world’s poorest countries did nothing to cast the brand in a favorable light. In an age of more mindful consumption, it became hard to justify shopping at Topshop with knowledge of Green’s tax avoidance and short-changing of pensioners, while leading a champagne-soaked lifestyle of private jets and superyachts. Yet, despite Topshop’s dramatic fall from grace, its collapse is tinged with sadness for millennials like me who grew up during its heyday. For those of us who came of age in the early noughties and 2010s, Topshop was our entry point into fashion. It was the go-to destination once we outgrew Tammy Girl’s sparkly slogan tees, through which we could envision a life for ourselves beyond the humdrum of suburbia.
“Topshop was always on the horizon as the first place I ever wanted to buy clothes,” says Anna Loo, who works in publishing. “I feel like it was a gateway for pre-teens to discover your own style and it was where you shopped for the first time when your parents stopped buying your clothes. I used to go to the one in Cabot Circus in Bristol and that was like a classic weekend event with friends. We’d get on the train — it was only 15 minutes from Bath — and it was always so exciting to see what new stock they’d have.”
Topshop democratized glamour and style by making runway trends available at accessible prices to fashion-obsessed teens like me, who spent hours pouring over runway photos on the now-defunct style.com. It also gave us iconic designer collaborations which have become the stuff of fashion lore, from Christopher Kane’s grungy, grommet-studded 2009 collection to Kate Moss’ many sell-out lines, which saw scores of young women queue outside the flagship store for hours (the one-shoulder buttercup-yellow chiffon dress can still be found on eBay).
“Up until the age of 15 or 16 I thought it was just the epitome of aspirational cool,” says fashion writer Rosalind Jana. “This was the point where they’d just begun doing collaborations with young designers like Preen and the late Richard Nicoll. The Christopher Kane one is still particularly memorable. I was a big part of the fashion blogging community as a teenager and every single blogger was wearing either the studded minis or that tunic with the aggressive crocodile face.”
“I just think Topshop represents the kind of first foray into adult fashion for so many girls,” says Loo. “I think for a lot of people, Topshop will have been such a big part of their lives. It will be sad to see it go.”
“When I was at that age when Topshop was at its biggest, you would have thought that they would be untouchable,” says Kerntiff. “So even though it’s probably been a long time coming, it still feels like the end of an era.”
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Due to the pandemic, most glitzy red carpets and show-stopping live performances have been put on the back burner. That said, it didn’t stop the British Fashion Council from celebrating the industry’s heaviest hitters in 2020. Having already spotlighted the 50 emerging creatives to watch, this year the prestigious Fashion Awards — usually held at London’s Royal Albert Hall — went virtual, and, much like the digital shows of London Fashion Week, it was made available for those outside of the industry to watch, too.
Forgoing its annual format, 2020’s awards saw its hosts, including Millie Bobby Brown, Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and RosalÃa, instead champion the designers, brands, and individuals who paved the way for progress in what has been an uncertain and troubling time for the industry. From adapting business models to supporting key workers via fighting for equity and against prejudice in the face of the Black Lives Matter movement, 20 honorees were recognized in a 30-minute film under the pillars of environment, community, people, and creativity. “This year, under unique circumstances, we felt it was important to recognize the people and businesses who played a role in some of the most important and challenging issues of our generation and champion those who raised the bar in areas such as diversity, sustainability, and community,” British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush said in a statement ahead of the 2020 Fashion Awards.
So who made the fashion industry a better place for all this year? The Emergency Designer Network, founded by Phoebe English, Holly Fulton, and Bethany Williams, took home the community accolade for its work in harnessing the power of London’s creatives to produce 50,000 surgical gowns and 10,000 scrubs for British health workers. A Sai Ta‘s Actively Standing Against Injustice campaign and charitable work in dismantling systemic racism within the industry, as well as Michael Halpern‘s joyful celebration of eight frontline workers in lieu of a digital show, also won the award.
Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton presented the recipients of the people category, those who create “equal, diverse, and empowered workforces from head office and supply chain to shop floor.” BritishVogue‘s Edward Enninful was awarded, with The Crown‘s Emma Corrin sending a virtual message of gratitude for the progress and positivity Enninful has injected both at the title and within the industry at large. Agents of change in holding the industry to account, Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Sandrine Charles, also won the award for their work in founding the innovative and much-needed Black in Fashion Council. Designers Priya Ahluwalia and Samuel Ross were both commended for using their platforms “to raise awareness around the challenges of the Black community, especially in the wake of the Black Lives Matter movement,” with Ross pledging an incredible £10,000, or $13,485 USD, to organizations and people on the front line of the movement. Brother Vellies founder Aurora James was also awarded for spearheading the 15% Pledge, a powerful platform calling on retailers to commit 15% of their shelf space to Black-owned brands.
To award the environment accolades, fashion activist Aja Barber delivered a powerful message about the industry’s responsibility to the planet and its people, stating: “Now is the time to act — frankly, the time to act was actually yesteryear. We can get through this together, but it will take immediate and bold action.” Actor Maisie Williams reiterated: “We need to understand that we are all part of the problem — but that we can also be part of the solution.” Five individuals were celebrated, those who have helped create change and continue to inspire the rest of us to take action: Stella McCartney, Anya Hindmarch, Christopher Raeburn, Gabriela Hearst, and The Fashion Pact, a platform of industry leaders and businesses working towards collective environmental progress.
Finally, presented by RosalÃa, the creativity award was given to the designers and brands who have made a significant and meaningful global impact over the past few years, pivoting particularly well in such turbulent times. Grace Wales Bonner, whose innovative and inspiring collections “challenge the roles of race and Black culture in fashion;” JW Anderson, who, this year, redefined the idea of a fashion month show with his virtual show-in-a-box; and Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who came together to imagine a new kind of fashion future with their co-headed brand, all took home the award.
In the most sobering year on record, it’s only fitting that the British Fashion Council steered the celebrations away from the glitz and glamour of celebrity, instead presenting meaningful awards to a community of diverse, innovative, progressive, and future-facing creatives. With them at the helm, the future of fashion is looking up.
Read below for a full list of the 20 honorees:
Community
A Sai Ta
Chanel
Emergency Designer Network
Kenneth Ize
Michael Halpern
People
Aurora James
Edward Enninful
Lindsay Peoples Wagner and Sandrine Charles for Black in Fashion Council
Priya Ahluwalia
Samuel Ross
Environment
Anya Hindmarch
Christopher Raeburn
Gabriela Hearst
Stella McCartney
The Fashion Pact
Creativity
Graces Wales Bonner
Jonathan Anderson
Kim Jones
Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Riccardo Tisci and Burberry
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But, this holiday season — when many are (understandably) making their own presents or opting out of exchanging gifts altogether — luxe doesn't have to mean expensive. In fact, most of the gifts on this list are under $100. Instead of price, it's about opulent-feeling (cozy, plush, soft) fabrics, thoughtful fashion gifts boasting hand-dyed (read: one-of-a-kind) prints, elevated versions of wardrobe essentials that your giftee will never get for themselves, and, most importantly, pampering presents that will help them indulge in some self-care to start 2021 in a more relaxed state.
With that in mind, ahead, gifts for the luxe-loving (and deserving) people on your list.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
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