If New York Fashion Week can be defined as, at times, too cool for its own good, Milan Fashion Week remains a site of earnest decadence; of showgoers dressed to the nines even early in the morning; of runways boasting sequins, fringe, beading, tulle, and other super-feminine detailing.
What the week lacked, though, was the kind of integration of social justice issues into runway performances that other cities have begun to do, with just a few exceptions — Vogue Italia announced a partnership with Yoox to support emerging sustainable designers, and Diesel hosted an event all about upcycling. For the most part, though, paper invites piled up and runways were covered in plastic. Meanwhile, Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve made history as the first plus-sized models to walk in Fendi. They were, however, the only plus models I spotted for the entire week, leading me to question whether or not designers in this beautiful city are willing to accommodate their increasingly vocal customer bases.
Fur was also extremely present at the shows of many major designers, an interesting choice given the growing dissidence towards its use in fashion (though many argue that fur is more sustainable than synthetic options).
All that being said, the craftsmanship displayed on the runways was inspiring, and there were several very clear trends that emerged over the course of the week. From puffy sleeves to suits with fringe, it seems designers in Milan have one thing on the brain: Making a statement. Subtlety has no place in Milan’s fashion scene, where the louder the piece, the better.
Ahead, our favorite trends from Milan Fashion Week.
Westworld Extras
Corseted dresses with layers of voluminous, lacy ruffles dominated the runways, in a Western-saloon-meets-Renaissance vein. At Gucci, gowns were large, romantic, and classic. At Fendi, they were figure-hugging, the lace draped and belted for a more modern feel. And at Moschino, gowns were finished with enormous bustles, an ironic throwback made to feel contemporary with extremely short hemlines.
GucciPhoto by Estrop/Getty Images.MoschinoPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.FendiPhoto Courtesy of Fendi.Fringe Benefits
As models moved down countless runways, fringe swirled around them, hypnotically bouncing and swaying. At Prada, suiting was sharply tailored and then decorated with swaying fringe of various thickness, over and under blazers, trousers, and skirts. Fringe played heavily at Bottega Veneta, too, decorating the edges of sweaters, bags, dresses, and coats, in colors that included a very pleasing kiwi green. More fringe was seen at Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini, Salvatore Ferragamo, Alberta Ferreti, and Fendi, until it became so ubiquitous that I began to think ahead to fall 2020: Will we be able to wear anything without fringe?
Bottega VenetaPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.PradaPhoto by Estrop/Getty Images.Jil SanderPhoto by Estrop/Getty Images.Alberta FerrettiPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.Statement Sleeves
An echo from the U.S. awards season and New York Fashion Week, sleeves in Milan were bigger, frillier, and louder than ever. It’s perhaps the most refreshing and thorough update to the silhouettes that dominated the 2010s. This new decade is starting off with strong arms for women, and I’m living for it. At Fendi, shoulder lines dropped and sleeves billowed outwards. At Max Mara, sleeves sprouted layers of frills. It was ‘80s-meets-Renaissance-meets-future, a new kind of power dressing for the woman who isn’t afraid to take up space.
Fendi Photo Courtesy of Fendi.Max MaraPhoto by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images.Corporate Luxe
In sharp contrast to frills and bows, many shows also including suiting, and even more shows including head-to-toe gray pantsuits. Max Mara, Fendi, Prada, Ferragamo, and more all took turns adding a unique spin to this otherwise classic (and, typically, relatively boring) wardrobe staple, with wide legs, high waists, big shoulders, and, yes, sometimes fringe and ruffles. The perfect answer to your work-related clothing crisis, these gray suits for fall will look as good with a silk blouse during the day as a lacy cami at night.
FerragamoPhoto by Estrop/Getty Images.Max MaraPhoto by Victor Boyko/Getty Images.PradaPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.Head-To-Toe Leather
There is probably one week per year in New York City when leather is weather-appropriate, but in Milan, it’s pretty much the It-item for fall 2020. From yellow leather shirt dresses at Fendi to patchwork leather dresses over matching pants at Marni, buttery leather of all shades and shapes was layered with — well, more leather.
MarniPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.FendiPhoto Courtesy of Fendi.Jil SanderPhoto by Estrop/Getty Images.
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