London Fashion Week fall '20 is well under way, with stellar shows from some of the city's most exciting and innovative designers. From Shrimps, which returned to the schedule with a royal family-inspired show, to queen-of-color Roksanda, whose show drew an A-list front row, via Molly Goddard, who brought teen spirit and tulle, it's been a thrilling season so far.
With sustainability being the central topic of conversation in fashion right now (and rightly so) and the coronavirus outbreak stopping emerging talent like ASAI from showing on schedule (the Fashion East graduate's factory was forcibly shut down by the Chinese government), it's a strange time for the British fashion industry.
One thing, however, that London Fashion Week is always able to do is remind us of the joy and creativity of personal style. Ahead, see how influencers, editors, and showgoers clashed prints, remixed color combos, and gave us unexpected but totally brilliant get-ups. Here's the best street style from fall '20.
Serotonin-boosting colors keep Storm Dennis at bay, and we love a cloud-like bag for the night bus home.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe've seen a lot of thin puffer jackets layered under other coats; we also note the genius of a wipe-clean bag in wet weather.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMIf there was ever a look to make us momentarily forget the gray sky, this is it. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMYou can't fault a pair of classic Vans.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMVanessa Redgrave and daughter Joely Richardson lit up the front row at Roksanda in these sumptuous shades yesterday.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe're digging the move away from sparkly hair accessories in favor of more relaxed ones, like this mustard bow. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWhen it's cold outside, swaddle yourself in scarves that double up as blankets. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMYet another head-to-toe tonal look that has us forgetting Storm Dennis.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe love this coordinating teal top and scrunchie.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMMaybe the best rainproof jacket is a leather one?PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMBaseball caps were a surprising substitute for an umbrella this season. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWhich one? A cap or a bucket hat?PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMHeritage check is still doing the rounds. Net-A-Porter's buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz keeps her look autumnal with these rust shades.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMOur favorite turbo boots came in oranges and yellows rather than black and white.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe love a subtly coordinated pair.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMQuilted jackets are still our favorite way to keep warm.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMOr you could go all out and wear your duvet outside.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe have so much respect for this showgoer's commitment to an evening-appropriate look in this weather. Very Blair Waldorf.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThe best way to weather-proof your hair is by braiding it – and loading up on gold jewelry.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThere's something so satisfying and uncomplicated about a floor-skimming dress and coat.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMXXL collars and knitted sweater vests have to be our favorite pairing this season.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMNow this is how to style out the rain. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWho said covering up with a puffer had to mean utilitarian? Look at those Medusa-esque earrings! PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe love every single element of this look, but the duck egg blue gloves have to be our favorite. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMCostume designer Sandy Powell always gives us a masterclass in color.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMGuests on their way to the Roksanda show, wearing the designer's most sumptuous colors.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe'll be investing in an XXL sunglasses chain for summer, then.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThis shot of color is just what we needed today.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMAnother case for the classic leather jacket. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThe first metallics we've seen this season, and boy, do we like 'em.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMMore quilted jackets and pouch bags. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThis glimpse of sparkle! Magic.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMMore color to blow the cobwebs away.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWhen in doubt, don your comfiest kicks.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMBig Bird goes disco!PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMOur love of green just won't quit. This mohair number is pitch-perfect.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMFlashes of orange, printed tights, and mock croc? Yes, please!PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThey make taking refuge from nasty weather look chic. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMIf you're into the simplicity of minimalism, but you're tired of beige overkill, this slate gray will do the trick. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMOne way to tackle the rain? Head-to-toe tonal.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe couldn't love this teal and white get-up any more if we tried! Plus, another spotting of color-block tights...PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMA lesson in color if ever we saw one! The tan skirt and cowboy print boots tie together the zingy lime and tangerine.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe've always had a soft spot for '70s dagger collars. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThe way to make your florals seem less dated? Pops of one color and a pair of heavy-duty Dr. Martens.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIM...it's also a good way to break up an otherwise head-to-toe black look. Note to self: Invest in an '80s leather bomber jacket.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMTie-dye and paint-splattered pieces will be summer's prints du jour. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMThis biohazard suit is two fingers up to the 9-5's stuffy sartorial expectations.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMMore turbo boots and Dr. Martens spotted...PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMPerhaps the secret to nailing street style is to own one oversized standout bag?PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMWe love the fuchsia blazer cutting through this otherwise muted look.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMAll-out denim never looked so fresh.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMSenior fashion market editor at Net-A-Porter Libby Page proves that there's life in the greige trend still.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMRip up the rule book (and your tartan trousers).PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMA T-shirt, chunky chain, and statement heels make business casual infinitely cooler. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMA trend we noticed first at Copenhagen Fashion Week, and now in London. Two-tone is the new way to do minimalism. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMGreens of every hue are still big news, but this olive shade has to be our favorite yet. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMA Margot Tenenbaum-style brown faux fur coat never goes amiss.PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIMSqueal! The teeniest bag going, plus we're falling for that fuchsia and tangerine combo. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIRSTY SIM
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On the penultimate day of London Fashion Week, JW Anderson’s fall ’20 womenswear show drew the coolest crowd of the season so far. From the one and only Eve to The End of the F***ing World’s Naomi Ackie and Sex Education’s Ncuti Gatwa via Alexa Chung, a suave Billy Porter, and musicians Rina Sawayama and Charli XCX, the front row was a testament to the Northern Irish designer’s reputation for putting on a show.
If the success of last season’s balloon-sleeve trench coat is anything to go by, the voluminous looks we saw on the catwalk today will be a surefire hit come autumn. The collection was a masterclass in playing with proportion. Kaia Gerber led a cast of models who floated down the catwalk in expansive outerwear (think mutton-leg sleeves and dramatic collars with gigantic leather lapels), but it wasn’t just the sizeable pieces that spoke volumes.
Knitwear fans will fall for the dress-sweater hybrids, complete with contrasting capes, while those familiar with Anderson’s subtle and sophisticated take on glitz will appreciate the glittering mohair looks and sheer holographic pieces. Fabric was ruffled and gathered on shoulders to create larger-than-life collars, sleeves were fluted, and hems were bubbled. Every one of the 41 looks sent down the catwalk focused on movement, inspired, according to the show notes, by “mixed media art… taken from the familiar to the beautifully strange, blowing them up to extreme volumes.”
Anderson has come mighty far since the rubber collars and paisley prints of his very first womenswear collection. This arm of his LVMH-backed label’s offering will turn 10 this time next year, meaning we’ll be celebrating a decade of his ingenious design, from that first foray into womenswear through to last season’s showstopping gold suiting and bejeweled breastplates. How does the designer think his brand has evolved in those 10 years? “I think we’re a bit more grown-up but still have those really essential parts of our DNA that have been there since 2011,” Anderson says ahead of his London Fashion Week fall ’20 show. “I think I keep evolving by staying curious. I love finding things that challenge me as a designer and finding ways to work with them.”
One such challenge is making luxury fashion accessible and relevant to those outside the industry bubble – a barrier he has successfully broken through. For his JW Anderson x Uniqlo collaborations, the fifth of which will be dropping next month, he fuses his aesthetic trademarks (think flashes of bold color among a muted palette, utilitarian detailing, and functional fabrication, plus a smattering of playful illustration) with the Japanese retailer’s high quality yet affordable offering. “I think these partnerships are extremely important,” he says. “Let us be a bit more democratic and reach a bigger audience.” We can expect plenty of spring-fresh gingham and patchwork from the upcoming spring ’20 collection, as well as a move into childrenswear. With gender-defying pieces already central to his label, this expansion will allow anyone and everyone to cop a slice of the brand.
Heading up his own brand and turning out phenomenally successful high street collaborations aren’t the only reasons Anderson is often referred to as the hardest-working figure in fashion. He’s also creative director of luxury Spanish label Loewe, works closely with emerging talent (in 2018 he published Your Picture / Our Future, a coffee table book compiling the work of up-and-coming photographers who were shortlisted for an exhibition of the same name) and, most recently, was announced as part of the Moncler Genius 2020 lineup.
Following in the footsteps of Simone Rocha and Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli, Anderson trawled through his label’s archives for the Moncler collection. “It has been such an incredible experience working with them. The craftsmanship and quality are outstanding,” he says of the experience. “We had this concept of an inflated archive. We looked at key pieces from the history of the brand and sort of blew them up for the Moncler collection. There is the ruffled short for instance. Or this giant hat that we did ages ago but is very much in the JW Anderson DNA.”
Leading a brand with such a 360° hold on fashion, I wonder what he thinks the secret is to being a truly global name? “I remember when JW Anderson first got onto Instagram, it was before any of the really big brands were on it,” he muses. “It was incredibly successful for us, but I think a lot of social channels have made it harder for small brands to find their niche. They have to constantly evolve and try new things.”
Speaking of new things, the designer’s Soho store in London is opening on March 13th. With a design concept of having always been part of the local landscape, we can expect the store to feature classic Soho neon signage and a distinct gentleman’s club feel. “We worked with these architects, 6a, who I worked with on the Hepworth Gallery exhibition, and we decided to keep this idea of two shops with two distinct interiors because the space was originally two different shops that we combined into one.” Why Soho of all places? “Soho is so incredibly diverse,” he explains. “There is the LGBTQI+ element but also so many different ages and ethnicities. It just felt right for us.”
Whether it’s opening up shop, collaborating with fast fashion brands, hosting exhibitions, or discovering emerging talent, there’s no stopping Jonathan Anderson, the fashion industry’s most prolific powerhouse. For us, though, the collections themselves are still where the magic really begins – just as this season proved.
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
मशहूर फैशन फटॉग्रफर दब्बू रतनानी के साल 2020 के कैलेंडर लॉन्च इवेंट में कई बॉलिवुड के सिलेब्रिटीज ने शिरकत की। ऐक्ट्रेस भूमि पेडनेकर, विद्या बालन, सनी लियोनी ने भी इस इवेंट में शिरकत की। लेकिन एक बार फिर एवरग्रीन रेखा ने सभी का ध्यान अपनी ओर आकर्षित किया।
