Friday, February 19, 2021

Fall’s Biggest Accessory Trends Are Also The Most Fun

Who knows what fall ‘21 holds: We’ve been isolating at home for almost a year now, and with vaccines slowly rolling out, there’s a good chance that we might be out and about (aka, wearing things other than house slippers and scrunchies again) come autumn. Or… we also might not! The trickiest fall Fashion Month season to date is well underway, and designers seem to be hedging their bets as well, showing 2021 fashion accessories that toe the line between practical and fun.

Everyone’s favorite lazy shoe option, clogs, continued to get the status-shoe treatment, after making headlines for appearing at the Hermès’ Paris Fashion Week show in October. Knitwear designer Victor Glemaud released a take on the wood-soled, orthopedic style as part of the brand’s first footwear release, done in collaboration with Shekudo; Dr. Jill Biden’s and Kate Middleton’s go-to sustainable designer Gabriela Hearst, too, sent out a clog-like loafer at her NYFW show. Princess Diana-esque detachable statement collars, a popular 2020 fall trend, became more winter-proof thanks to the turtleneck accessories at PH5 and 3.1 Phillip Lim — a look that’s not only stylish but also perfect for the scarf-adverse.

Below, every fall 2021 accessory trend worth noting.

Status Clogs


Many would argue that clogs never went anywhere — and they would be right! (See: everyone in your neighborhood who’s currently wearing Birkenstocks). This season though, designers put a fashion-forward spin on the “mom shoe” by showing the style paired with elegant knitted matching sets and dresses.

Sandy LiangPhoto: Courtesy of Sandy Liang.
Victor GlemaudPhoto: Courtesy of Victor Glemaud.
Veronica BeardPhoto: Courtesy of Veronica Beard.

Huggable Bags


With hugs few and far between, designers have taken to creating outerwear in cloud-like fabrics. This extended to accessories in the form of furry, soft bags that beg to be stroked and held tight.

Claudia LiPhoto: Benn Jae.
1017 ALYX 9SMPhoto: Ilya Lipkin
Marina MosconePhoto: courtesy of Marina Moscone.

Bucket Hats


Rihanna and Hailey Bieber’s favorite hat style is continuing to have a high-fashion moment. Reminiscent of the Kangol styles popular in the ‘80s and '90s, the hat now also comes in a variety of prints and fuzzy textures.

R13Photo: Courtesy of R13.
In Earnest by Byron LarsPhoto: Courtesy of In Earnest by Byron Lars.
ADEAMPhoto: Courtesy of Adeam.

Sleek Cowboy Boots


Classic cowboys boots in solid black and brown colors — as well as styles in bold prints and mixed materials — appeared at brands like Private Policy and Victor Li. 

Victor LiPhoto: Courtesy of Victor Li.
Private PolicyPhoto: Courtesy of Private Policy.
DauphinettePhoto: Courtesy of Dauphinette.

Hands-Free Bags


While some designers (AKNVAS, The Row) continued to release enormous bags that almost require three arms to carry, others opted for hands-free styles, ranging from bag necklaces to hand muff-like clutches worn on the arm.

StaudPhoto: Courtesy of Staud.
AMBUSHPhoto: Courtesy of AMBUSH.
Private PolicyPhoto: Courtesy of Private Policy.

Detachable Turtleneck


Last season was all about detachable ruffs and frilly collars. This fall took the trend to new heights, in the form of statement turtlenecks. While PH5 paired a pink collar, looking a little like a chic neck pillow, with a plaid cardigan for a can’t-miss look, 3.1 Phillip Lim threw a knit bolero-like accessory over a knit dress for a more subtle and coordinated take on the trend.

3.1 Phillip LimPhoto: Courtesy of 3.1 Phillip Lim.
PH5Photo: Lee Kun Seok.
TheophilioPhoto; Courtesy of Theophilio.

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Despite Featuring Plus-Size Models, Victoria’s Secret’s New Swimwear Is Still A Problem

On Tuesday, WWD reported that Victoria’s Secret would be bringing swimwear back into select store locations after discontinuing the line in 2016, a time in which the lingerie company began losing its market share to more size-inclusive brands that served and championed plus-size shoppers.

As part of the announcement, the brand released images of new styles that, at first glance, made it seem like Victoria’s Secret had made progress toward inclusive sizing. For the campaign, Victoria’s Secret shot two plus-size models — 2021 Time 100 Next listmaker Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve, the first plus-size model to walk for Chanel in over a decade — alongside straight-size models, Imaan Hammam and Taylor Hill. But while this may appear like a major step for a brand that had once been reluctant to show non-thin bodies in campaigns or the annual fashion show, the new swim collection stops at size XL. 

Victoria’s Secret told Refinery29 that the new size range goes from a 32A to a 40D and an XS to an XL. According to the site, a size XL will fit a 34-36” waist and a 44.5-46.5” hip, which, by the brand’s standards, is a size 16 to 18. At plus-size retailer Eloquii, those measurements are equivalent to a size 12. This release follows 2019’s soft-launch of swim online, which, according to TODAY, fell short of inclusivity standards as sizes ended at an L.

Topping out at XL is far below the industry standard for plus-sizing. At retailer Dia & Co., plus-sizing starts at size 14. Good American’s plus-size swimwear starts at 2XL. So why did VS advertise with models that are plus-size?

According to Taylor Long, founder of Nomads, a swimwear line that carries sizes XS to 4X,  Victoria’s Secret’s use of plus-size models without actually selling plus-sizes is unacceptable. “When a brand like Victoria’s Secret uses deceptive marketing tactics, not only are they tokenizing the plus-size models they use, they’re also deceiving their customers,” she explains. “[Victoria’s Secret] is one of many brands that are trying to capitalize on the size inclusion movement without doing any of the hard work, which would include designing, producing, and carrying plus-sizes in their store.”

Long, who was a plus-size model and an advocate for size-inclusivity in fashion prior to launching her label, believes that Victoria’s Secret has more responsibility to get this right than independent labels: “If smaller brands with much smaller budgets can design and produce inclusive styles and size ranges, then there is absolutely no reason why [Victoria’s Secret] can’t.” 

In 2018, former Victoria’s Secret CMO Ed Razek made comments that implied the brand wasn’t for plus-size women. In a Vogue interview, he claimed that casting plus-size or trans women in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show would only be the “politically correct thing to do” and ruin “the fantasy” — therefore, casting anyone other than straight-sized cis women would not be the “best business practice.” According to him, plus-size customers should have gone to Lane Bryant instead.

Following the interview, the brand put out a statement on Twitter, in which Razek apologized for coming across as “insensitive” for his remarks about transgender models. He never addressed his comments about the plus-size community. 

Razek retired in 2019, and Victoria’s Secret has been working to rebrand by hiring plus-size models like Ali Tate Cutler (according to Fashionista editor-in-chief Tyler McCall, Cutler came under fire after she posted a fatphobic comment in response to Alysse Dalessandro‘s article “11 Reasons Your ‘Concern’ for Fat People’s Health Isn’t Helping Anyone“).

While casting Elsesser and Kortleve in the campaign is certainly a step in the right direction, for Victoria’s Secret to truly do right by plus-size consumers, the brand has to actually sell their sizes, too.

Refinery29 requested further comment from Victoria’s Secret.

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