Friday, October 15, 2021

What Black Creators Can Learn From Signed, Blake

Before content creation became a legitimate career field, Black women have been influencing the world as we know it. Our fashion, style, and make-up looks turn into global trends that we end up not being credited for. Now, in the creative space, Black influencers are making sure that brands know their worth and add tax. R29Unbothered spoke to Chicago based lifestyle content creator, Blake Gifford, aka Signed, Blake, about her journey as a creator, and how her law degree has helped her navigate her brand partnerships, the community (more like family) she’s built with her audience, and her popular Amazon drop collections.

A little over a decade ago, as Gifford was graduating college and her friends were starting their new jobs or going off to law school, she began to blog about her journey and what she envisioned for the next stage in her life. “I didn’t have a ton of money, so I would shop at thrift stores a lot and share [on my blog] how I would tweak [an outfit] and make it my own,” Gifford says.

When Instagram launched, Blake would share photos of her outfits on the platform and her blog organically started growing. While continuing to blog her life, Blake also went to law school and had her sights on becoming a defense attorney but soon realized after interning with the Bronx Defenders that the work was very emotional and personal. “I didn’t think I could do it and maintain a healthy headspace without reopening my own wounds [from] growing up in foster care,” Gifford says. Gifford had been in foster care from age eight through eighteen. She decided to pivot into intellectual property law since it would be useful to her as an influencer. Before she had a management team, Blake would look over all of her contracts and negotiate her own deals, which made her feel more confident in pushing back on terms.


“It’s important for brands to partner with Black creatives but also pay us what we’re worth, because like it or not, we drive the culture. End of discussion.”

Signed, Blake

As a Black creator, Gifford has had to advocate for herself, considering brands have a tendency to pay Black influencers less than their white counterparts. The pay disparity is so pervasive that, last year, Adesuwa Ajayi launched the Instagram page Influencer Pay Gap, exposing brands and how little they pay Black creators compared to white creators. Gifford says, “It’s important for brands to partner with Black creatives but also pay us what we’re worth, because like it or not, we drive the culture. End of discussion. We drive the culture, so if you want to be on top of what’s happening at the moment, you need Black content creators,” she says.

Gifford has been able to set trends and move culture because the community she’s built over the past decade is invested in her as a creator. Alongside fashion, Blake also shares her cleaning and organization habits under the hashtag #NeatFreaky, as well as her apartment renovations, and her adventures with her lovely dog Bash. “Ten plus years ago, no one was making money doing this at all and I didn’t get into it with the goal of making money,” Gifford shares. “I got into it with the goal of finding a community…I feel very indebted to my community because they found me during a time when I was really struggling with my own self-esteem,” she says. “I always say people don’t buy products, they buy people and the fact that I’m able to sell products is because people are invested in me as a person.”

This, she says, is what sets Black influencers apart.“Community is within our culture of being Black, we are raised where everything is a village and so I think Black people innately bring that mindset to what it means to be a content creator in a way that is really unique and special,” she says. Gifford’s connection with her community was particularly noticeable with her fashion collaboration with Amazon. The Drop is Amazon’s fashion line that works specifically with content creators on a seven-piece capsule collection. Noticing a gap in the market, Gifford literally slid in Amazon’s DMs. 

“I noticed that all the content creators were white, thin, and mostly New York City-based,” says Gifford. “So I slid into their DMs and simply told them I should be next and they responded, ‘Email us, we’d love to talk about it,’ and within 24 hours of my initial email I had a contract on my desk.”

As Gifford designed her luxurious yet affordable capsule collection, she included her audience in the process by posting on Instagram stories and creating polls on what her audience wanted to see. She implemented the feedback she received in the final styles, patterns, and fabric options she picked. 

Gifford also advocated for the change she wanted to see, specifically with diversity and size inclusion. “I told [Amazon], there are not enough plus-size women and Black creators and that they need to open those doors.” Her first drop was pushed back slightly due to the pandemic and it worked out in her favor because she was able to make sure the collection had an inclusive size range (XXS – 3X). “I also acknowledge my body type privilege and being on one extreme end of the size chart has let me know in a really small way what it feels like to shop and not find anything that fits, so I can only imagine what that feels like for plus-size women,” Gifford says.

It’s her commitment to wanting everyone to feel beautiful in her clothes that drove her decision to also incorporate affordable luxury and high-quality fabrics in her collection.

“To me, luxury exists at every level, it’s not about the price of things but how I feel,” Gifford says. “Black luxury specifically [is] about finding and radiating joy in a world that wants us to be anything but happy. I try to infuse that into every aspect of my life.”

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

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The Leather Harness Is The Newest — And Most NSFW — Workwear Trend

There’s an image that comes to mind when you think “corporate dress code.” I bet it includes some version of a suit and a button-down shirt. But this season, workwear is adding a BDSM twist to its roster. It’s take-your-leather-harness-to-work season, as evidenced by the fall 2021 and spring 2022 collections that made a case for pairing tailored sets with the body accessory. 

After almost two years of working from home, workwear has started to look different, with “business comfort” — think: tailored joggers and sneakers paired with suits — set to take off as we return to the office. For those who are still in a panic about what to wear IRL, rest assured that tailoring remains one of the biggest trends for women. But this is not your grandfather’s suit. Instead, brands are offering new takes with intentionally oversized silhouettes, two-tone blazers, and mini skirt suits.

Other designers are suggesting a more NSFW approach to workwear.

For its 100th anniversary collection, Gucci showed a lineup that included equestrian nods, with leather whips, polo riding hats, knee-high boots, and body harnesses. Creative director Alessandro Michele paired the latter with velvet monochrome suits, corseted dresses, and flowy frocks that could seamlessly go from a conference meeting to a happy hour-turned-dinner. For fall 2021, Dion Lee showed black belted harnesses as crop tops, white asymmetrical bib-like pieces over flowy tops, and mesh cut-out mini dresses with corseting. Meanwhile, Dior’s Cruise 2022 showed a myriad of ladylike dresses and collegiate button-downs and turtlenecks paired with, you guessed, leather harnesses. 

It might seem doubtful that people will wear leather accessories to work. But harnesses have already shown their mainstream potential. Born out of the ‘80s and ‘90s, leather harnesses have long been associated with kink-adjacent fashion. In the early 2010s though, they made their runway debut, with designers like Herve Leger and Prabal Gurung embracing the look. Reminder: This was the era of Fifty Shades of Grey, the books-turned-movies that brought conversations around BDSM culture to the mainstream (and made Seattle’s corporate culture hot!).

A few years ago, the leather harness made another mainstream comeback: Celebrities like Timotheé Chalamet, Michael B. Jordan, and Orlando Bloom donned iterations of harness-like accessories — which the Call Me By Your Name actor tried to pass as a bib (yeah, right!) — on the red carpet, paired with tailored button-down shirts. On the other end, mass brands like Zara welcomed the accessory into their ranks. 

But while fall trends have announced the return of the leather harness, the spring 2022 runways proved that it’s going nowhere. Instead, it’s making its way to workwear now. For proof, look no further than LaPointe’s latest collection inspired. For the spring 2022 presentation, inspired by rave culture, the brand’s designer Sally LaPointe turned a downtown storefront into a club, complete with ear-busting techno and neon lights. The selection included monochrome suits to match, featuring feather details and topped off with harnesses. 

It’s clear that, after spending a year in lockdown, we’re not willing to stick by the rules. Just in time for the Great Resignation and the arrival of subversive basics, the era of boring pantsuits and corporate briefcases is over. Having spent the majority of last year at home, we’re also no longer wasting any time — going from the conference room to the club with no stops in between. 

Get started with some harness options, below.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Thursday, October 14, 2021

Here’s Why The Slouch Sock Is Going Viral On Amazon

It seems like for some, the early-aughts Y2K fashion trends aren’t throwing back far enough. For many yesteryear style chasers, the ‘80s slouch sock is moreso hitting the mark. Amazon has astronomical numbers and reviews from customers to prove that this trend is sought-after and skyrocketing. But what’s up with slouch socks — and why are they coming back now? 

There are a few factors going on. First, as with all fashion trends, anything old is cool again — and celebs like Kendall Jenner and Hailey Baldwin are seriously leaning into the dorky-but-chic aesthetic of wearing socks that intentionally gather at the ankles. While the most on-the-nose look would have to be slouch socks over leggings (just like ‘80s-era women in jazzercise and step aerobics classes used to do), these days the slouch sock is also charming with, say, a pair of chunky loafers or dad sneakers (a la off-duty Princess Diana, who continues to resurface as a forever style icon).

Secondly, as the sock blog Sock.co astutely points out, slouch socks are “gaining popularity […] especially in Cosplay and Manga culture,” in which kawaii fans like to emulate their beloved cartoons of school-uniform girlies who can’t keep their knee-highs up. And if I can also make a third hypothesis on why slouch socks are in a viral spiral, I’d say these are the exact kind of affordable comfort buy that’s soothing for these still-in-a-pandemic times. Plus, they’re ever so fitting for the forthcoming shut-in winter days, which you may as well prepare for now.

But why not just wear regular socks and push them down, you may ask? While no one’s stopping you from hacking the system with your high school soccer socks, the main difference here lies in the level of elasticity. Slouch socks are purposely designed to droop so you can expect these to be softer, plushier, and not as grippy on the calves. If compression socks are on one end of the sock-o-meter spectrum in terms of tightness, slouch socks are on the opposite end.

Down to try this ’80s sock trend for yourself? Ahead, here are the best slouch socks (according to actual reviewers who bought them) that you can score on Amazon right now.

AWS/American Made Extra Long Heavy Slouch Socks, $10.99

Product Breakdown: Available as individual pairs ($10.99) or 3-packs ($21.99) in an assortment of colors
The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 6,736 reviews on amazon.com
Best For: People who wear women’s shoe sizes 9 through 11
What They’re Saying: “Thick, warm and great quality! Perfect for winter. I love the versatility of wearing them up or down. Also, so hard to find nice thick white socks that are knee-high! Looked for weeks. These are so comfortable and stylish.” – Amazon reviewer Graphic Designer (pictured above)

Yacht & Smith 6-Pack Scrunch Socks for Women, $23.82

Product Breakdown: Sold as 6-packs in 10 color options
The Hype: 4.2 out of 5 stars and 2,756 reviews on amazon.com
Best For: People who wear women’s shoe sizes 5 through 10
What They’re Saying: “So cute! So pastel! Perfect for white sneakers. I love these socks; I’m going to buy another pair right after this review. I’m a size 7 and they fit perfect. Not too thick and perfect for summer. I was worried that they would be too warm but they are comfy and thin without sacrificing the cuteness of the slouch sock. They are going to look so good with all my kawaii stuff.” – Amazon reviewer Chelsea (pictured above)

STYLEGAGA Women’s Fall Winter Slouch Knit Socks, $12.90

Product Breakdown: Sold as 2-packs ($12.90) and 4-packs ($22.90) in 4 color options
The Hype: 4.6 out of 5 stars and 2,202 reviews on amazon.com
Best For: People who wear women’s shoe sizes 5 through 9
What They’re Saying: “I like to hide my skinny ankles at the gym lol so these socks are perfect. The material isn’t thick or thin. I think it’s a perfect blend. Thin enough to wear them with your leg boots in the spring without making your feet sweat but thick enough to wear them in the winter with ugg boots. Don’t expect these to be like thick thermal socks because they aren’t. They are cute fashionable socks. The material is soft — not cheaply thin but soft. I got them in grey, white, and black and love them. They are long as well. I’ve washed and dried them once…no wear and tear so far.” – Amazon reviewer Sabhia (pictured above)

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

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Sorry To Report: High-Low Hemlines Are Back

Giambattista Valli, Summer 2022, women, pret a porter

The spring 2022 runways signaled the return of many trends from the 2010s. From peplum to saturated colorblocking, it seems that — following the Y2K trend boom this year — the Twilight-era styles are now finding their way out of Tumblr posts. This includes high-low hemlines, or “mullet skirts,” as they’ve come to be called by those who’ve since sworn off the infamous silhouette. 

Between 2010 and 2015, part-mini, party-ball gown skirts — that, as the nickname suggests, bear resemblance to the questionable hairstyle sported by the likes of Joe Exotic and Hulk Hogan — reigned. Celebs like Taylor Swift, Selena Gomez, and Lily Collins sported the trend on the red carpet. Meanwhile, on social media, bloggers paraded the skirts everywhere from Coachella to their favorite coffee shop. 

Although the mullet skirt was the It-trend of the early 2010s, the silhouette was endlessly mocked for its perceived identity crisis: It was too formal to be a dance floor-appropriate mini, but it wasn’t long enough to be considered a black-tie style. Whenever the wind hit the skirt, the train would pop back like a superhero’s cape making anyone look like they were about to jet-set off to save the world. Regardless, I, like many at the time, was obsessed with the trend. I even bought a high-low dress for my high school graduation.

Sometime in the mid-2010s, the mullet skirt was exposed for what it really was: a questionable and cringe-y fad. Skirt symmetry was soon restored, Tumblr was ditched for Instagram, and other relics of the era (Jeffrey Campbell Litas, American Apparel Disco dress, etc.) were shelved. My graduation dress seemed like an unfortunate relic of a time of poor judgment. So I donated it, figuring the trend would never come back.

But I was wrong.

LOS ANGELES, CA – JUNE 29: Gigi Hadid is seen out and about on June 29, 2016 in Los Angeles, CA. (Photo by Michael King/BuzzFoto via Getty Images)

The return has been some time in the making. Designers like Mugler and Zuhair Murad included high-low skirts in their spring and fall 2021 lineups, while others like Christian Siriano, Rochas, Cynthia Rowley, Giambattista Valli, and Rodarte solidified the comeback by adding the trend to their spring 2022 offerings. Even at the 2021 Met Gala, high-low skirts had a moment. Donatella Versace wore a white corseted Versace dress with a ruffled high-low skirt, while Diane Kruger donned a neon green frock with a mini balloon-shaped front and a long hemline in the back. For the after-party, Kendall Jenner sported a red Givenchy dress that included an embellished mini with a long train bow attached. 

The good news is, the high-low skirts of today are nothing like their mullet-like predecessors. Instead, they embrace asymmetry without being gimmicky. 

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 07: A model walks the runway for the Christian Siriano SS2022 Fashion Show at Gotham Hall on September 07, 2021 in New York City (Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images for Christian Siriano)

Christian Siriano showcased the elegant side of the trend with a black skirt featuring a ruffled asymmetrical slit and a neon orange mini dress with a lopsided hem. Meanwhile, Cynthia Rowley showed a black long-sleeved mini dress that flourished into a feathered ball gown skirt more fit for an Oscars after-party than a night at Coachella. At Rochas, high-low skirts offered drama, with a black black-and-white printed mini dress opening up into a full-blow ruffled train. This time around, the high-low skirt is not trying so hard to grab attention for the sake of attention; instead, the hemlines seamlessly ascend from top to bottom, rather than make abrupt drops from the penthouse to the lobby like a sartorial version of Disney’s Tower of Terror. 

It’s worth noting that high-low hemlines are emerging at a time when mini dresses and mini skirts are taking over fashion. For people who are not into skirts so short that they might as well be belts — see: the recent Miu Miu micro-mini skirts — high-low hemlines offer a way to be on-trend without completely exposing, well, everything.

Then there is the influence of TikTok. While Y2K trends synonymous with the pop-punk and Hollywood’s paparazzi eras have been experiencing popularity for a while, recently, the hashtags #2010sfashion and #2010snostalgia popped up on the app, where people shared thrift hauls featuring items from the last decade that are now fashionable again. Yes, high-low skirts are among the mix.

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 10: A model walks the runway at designer Cynthia Rowley’s show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows, at Robert F. Wagner Park on September 10, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Shannon Finney/Getty Images)

Still, high-low skirts are more than just a nostalgia trend — they’re a fit for our unprecedented, chaotic times. The past year has prompted trends like extreme cutouts that exemplified just how many layers we’ve wanted to shed during this pandemic that refuses to let up. Then there were the subversive basics that saw people ditch symmetry and old-fashioned basics as a way to rebel against the status quo.

Maybe high-low hemlines are yet another reminder that the balance is all off. Good thing, this time around, we’re onboard with the trend.

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