Thursday, December 9, 2021

The Great Resignation Is Here. What Does It Mean For Fashion?

After working through almost two years in a pandemic, people are quitting their jobs en masse, with more than 4 million Americans having resigned from their workplaces this past fall. Dubbed the “Great Resignation” by psychologist and Texas A&M University professor Anthony Klotz, this unprecedented event has called into question the culture of work and the changing hallmarks of a fulfilling job and career. As employees are rebelling against the nine-to-five grind they’ve previously considered as norms, these changes have rippled out into other areas of their lives. This includes clothing they’ve previously worn to perform their professional selves: Business-adjacent fashion trends like low-cut blazers, leather harnesses worn over jackets, and skirt suits so short you’ll never make it past your office entrance are rising in popularity. 

According to Klotz, since the pandemic took hold, it’s become clear that the physical office culture does not work for everyone. “When I go into the office, I have to [be] fake. It’s not just about wearing comfy clothes, it’s [not] about wearing clothes where I feel like I can express myself. The norms of the workplace don’t allow that,” he says. The Great Resignation has empowered people to question that way of thinking. “As soon as you decide [to] strike out and do something different — whether it’s going to work for another company, start an entrepreneurial venture, or pursue a hobby, you travel the world, stay home with family, whatever it is — the power balance shifts,” Klotz explains. As employees feel less attached to their work, they are coming into the office in whatever feels most comfortable to them. 

“Our work life isn’t what it used to be, and neither are the looks that are deemed ‘work-appropriate,’” says Morgan LeCaer, content lead at global fashion search site Lyst. “With the world tentatively heading back to the office, we quickly have had to adapt to the new nine-to-five — and doing so without sacrificing the comfort brought by loungewear over the past 18-plus months.”

The site listed “hybrid workwear” as one of the biggest trends in its 2021 Year in Fashion Report, following a 109% increase in demand for “oversized suits” in August 2021 and a jump of 87% for “wide-leg pants” in July, compared to last year. “Over the past six months, high-low workwear and generally more relaxed silhouettes have been especially popular,” says LeCaer. 

According to Stitch Fix’s general manager of women’s Loretta Choy, “71% of consumers said striking a balance between style and comfort is more important to them now than before COVID-19.” The site, which provides a subscription-based shopping service, has seen an increase of 39% in searches for “back to office” and “back to work” attire from last year. But while shoppers may be headed to the office, according to Choy, they are no longer looking for the same wardrobe: “The top business comfort styles for women that are trending right now include soft oversized boyfriend fit blazers, elastic waist pants, fly knit flats, and sweater dresses.”

In response, designers have reimagined what workwear looks like beyond fashion-forward athleisure sets or designer sneakers that were trending even prior to the pandemic. In one of the most buzzed-about spring 2022 runway shows, Miu Miu showed blue button-down shirts worn with cropped blazers and leather micro mini skirt suits — preppy, risqué styling better suited for Constance Billard’s courtyard than your typical workday. But while the low-rise waistlines and barely-finished hemlines might have seemed inappropriate for the office in a pre-pandemic world, our priorities have changed. Why worry about the hemline of your skirt when the coverage of your face mask, healthcare benefits, and a way to retire are more important? 

Klotz points out that another manifestation of the Great Resignation is the way people are embracing uncertainty, often quitting with no plan to follow their two-week notice. “It’s interesting that people are moving into these in-between spaces that are normally scary,” he says. While employees would typically dedicate an entire section of their wardrobe toward workwear, if there’s no guarantee that they’ll be coming back to a corporate office, what’s the point? As such, hybrid clothes that work for a variety of professional and social occasions are becoming more important to consumers. 

Take, for example, Alexander McQueen’s spring 2022 collection, which showed blazer dresses with statement sleeves and suits with slits on the jacket that work just as well in a conference room as a night out. Or, Peter Do’s spring 2022 show that included a variety of monochrome suits — some with no shirts underneath — as well as silk shirts, pants, and skirts perfect for both a year-long sabbatical and a first day back at the office. Choy has seen a similar trend happening with Sitch Fix’s customers. “Many of our clients who are beginning to go back to the office are only going in a few days a week,” she says. “This means they’re requesting pieces that they can wear in an office setting but that they will also reach for on work-from-home days.”

As people are handing in their resignations, they are also shelving their business suits. Klotz says that employers will need to compromise on past practices, including office dress codes, if they hope to retain their workforce in the future. 

If we are to believe runways, people will be grabbing mini skirts come springtime. But will they be heading to the office — or on their way out? 

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The Leather Harness Is The Newest Workwear Trend

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The ‘90s Skirt Suit Is Shorter Than Ever

Wednesday, December 8, 2021

These Afro-Latina Creatives Carved Out Their Own Career — & Found Success

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Honoring long-held traditions while looking toward the future might be a popular practice around the holiday season, but for some, it’s a year-round business. Just ask 28-year-old digital creator Julianny Casado and 26-year-old makeup artist Sabré O’Neil. As Afro-Latinas (Casado is a first-generation American of Dominican origin; O’Neil is a second-generation American of Puerto Rican descent), the two creatives feel strongly about regularly celebrating their roots not only through their work, but through their own appearances and unique senses of style, as well. 

Both Casado and O’Neil say that the journey in accepting their identities wasn’t always an easy one. “Growing up as an Afro-Latina, it was really hard to find my crowd,” O’Neil says. “I didn’t know if I was going to hang with the Hispanic people or the other crowds, so I was always by myself.” 

By continuing to push forward and make space for themselves in two fields that have historically lacked diversity, they’re helping to make way for opportunities for the next generation of creatives within their respective communities. In partnership with Converse, the sneaker brand that’s been embracing both tradition and innovation through fun twists on the timeless Chuck style for more than 100 years, we asked Casado and O’Neil to share how they discovered their passions, the ways in which their identities influence their work, and how they redefine classic Converse silhouettes in 2021. Read their stories, below.

Julianny Casado, Digital Creator

I discovered my passion… “When I was 16 years old. I’ve always been obsessed with cameras, but my cousin had this really cool DSLR camera, and it really changed the way I felt about photos and how you could tell stories. I wanted to work for National Geographic and do crazy documentative stories. It took off from there. After that, I was always obsessed with photo formats and anything visual. Everything else — like curation and art direction — just grew. I learned from my mistakes and experience.”

My own unique aesthetic is… “Very candid and life-like. I like things to be as organic as possible. Very vibrant, too. I’m obsessed with color — it brings a certain character to the story that I’m telling. I work with the plus-size community and it’s been an experience that I’m so honored to be a part of. There are so many people who aren’t being celebrated, but they should be because they’re athletes and champions in their own right. They go out every day and smash whatever it is that they do. I love giving voices to people who feel like they don’t have one.” 

How my identity as an Afro-Latina shapes my work: “I’m from New York City, but my family is from the Dominican Republic. I also have a huge lineage of Afro-descendants, and I love it. It influences everything that I do. I don’t take anything for granted because I know where I come from. I know what my ancestors have been through, and I know I have better opportunities just for being here today. I’ve watched my family turn bread into gold. I’ve seen them work hard at everything that they do, and it’s taught me that it’s the little details that people might not speak about or see right away. That’s definitely something I like to highlight and photograph — the things that aren’t completely obvious or aren’t typically socially accepted as beautiful. I think those are the best parts of life.”

I struggled with my identity… “As I grew up. I’m a first-generation American, so I didn’t have the Dominican roots that my older siblings had. I felt like there was a huge dissociation, but now as an adult, I’m really enjoying learning what those who came before me have done and how important it is to keep our culture and our traditions going. They are the things that make us, and if you don’t practice them, you lose them and you become like everyone else.”

To be Afro-Latina in America today is about… “Digging deeper into your identity. It’s a blessing. We have to stand together because there are so many people who want to deny where we come from. They want us to fit into what the rest of the world’s narrative is. Honestly, I’m so proud to be Afro-Latina and I wouldn’t change it for the world. Not my hair, not my skin, not my experiences.”

My first memory of Converse sneakers… “Was when I was 12. My first pair was white and they were low-tops. I love Converse — they’re my favorite sneakers. They were the coolest shoes growing up. They were so simple, comfortable, and affordable.”

I would redefine classic Converse silhouettes… “By adding a color-blocking pattern to a pair. Color is my safe zone and it makes me feel closest to my identity. I would choose pastel colors because they remind me of my island.” 

Sabré O’Neil, Makeup Artist

I discovered my passion… “Growing up around my grandmother. She loved beauty and the latest beauty products. I went to college for nursing, and we had two labs — one in the morning and one at night — and I would see all the girls in my class do their makeup in between those classes. I knew how to do makeup, so I just started marketing myself [and saying], ‘Hey! I can do your eyebrows! I can put on your lashes! I can help you!’ From there, all the girls in my nursing class started to pay me, so I was like, Okay, this could be a business. After I got my associate’s degree, I changed my major to business and I’ve been successful ever since. I graduated in 2018, and a year later, I opened my own makeup studio.”

My own unique aesthetic is… “Very natural, but still glammed up. I like very subtle, simple makeup, but I still want [my clients] to look enhanced.”

How my identity as an Afro-Latina shapes my work: “I try to be as authentic as possible. With my makeup, I try not to over-enhance my face because I still want to show up as myself. I hear a lot of clients ask to look a certain way and when I do their makeup, they see how they look and they’re shocked. They’re like, ‘Wow, you made me look pretty, but I still look like myself.’”

I struggled with my identity… “Through my hair. People were always asking me, ‘Are you sure you’re Puerto Rican?’ because of how my hair looked. It was very thick, but also curly. To this day, I’m still very skeptical of my natural hair because I don’t know how to tame it and I don’t know how to show myself through my hair, so sometimes I just put it in a ponytail. I think that was another reason why I got into makeup — I used to feel insecure and doing makeup made me feel pretty.”

To be Afro-Latina in America today is about… “Being free. My grandma is straight from Puerto Rico and she’s still learning how to do certain things, like cross the street by herself. I’ve learned that I have to speak up for myself and that I can’t give up, so I can show my grandma that people like us can make things happen.”

My first memory of Converse sneakers… “Was in high school. I was so excited to get a pair because I thought they were so cute. I got the black high-top ones, and I wore them with white socks with the fringes on the ends. But then I saw all my other friends at school with Converse shoes in zebra and cheetah prints, and I never knew they came in other colors and styles. From that moment, I was obsessed with Converse because of the different styles and collaborations with other brands.” 

I would redefine classic Converse silhouettes… “By pairing high-tops with a little school-girl skirt and an oversized sweater. It’s very classic but still spunky — that’s what Converse is.”

LOADING SHOP

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Tuesday, December 7, 2021

The Secondhand Luxury Watch Market Is Bigger Than Ever, Here’s Why

It’s no secret that the resale market is booming. But in the past year, one accessory, in particular, has risen to the top of the most-wanted list: watches. 

According to The RealReal’s 2021 resale report, customers are spending $1,600 more than last year on secondhand luxury watches. Meanwhile, on online consignment retailer Fashionphile, searches for the term “watch” have increased by 73% since 2020. According to McKinsey, a U.S.-based consulting firm, the pre-owned luxury watch market was worth $18 billion in 2018; it is poised to grow to $30 billion by 2025. 

While there are more people than ever interested in owning a watch, luxury brands — which include the big four: Patek Philippe, Rolex,  Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille — continue to produce limited inventory every year to ensure exclusivity and quality. Elizabeth Layne, chief marketing officer at Rebag, says that due to manufacturing closures amid the pandemic, as well as supply chain issues, watchmakers and brands produced even fewer products last year. According to her, there’s also a growing trend of generational watchmakers and artisans going out of business as a result of the pandemic’s economic impact: “All of that has increased the demand and prices of secondhand luxury watches.” 

But scarcity isn’t the only factor driving the watch gold rush. “I think that both social media content, as well as editorial content focusing on watches have broader factors that make it a lot more approachable,” says Layne. See, for instance, blogs like Dimepiece, which features luxury watch content that caters to women, a demographic that’s been long overlooked by the male-dominated industry. While Dimepiece was founded in March 2020, its creator Brynn Wallner first thought of the site while she worked as a multimedia producer at Sotheby’s in 2019: “The watches department reached out to me and they were like, ‘Hey, we want some cool content,” Wallner says about how she got into watches. “It was like a culmination of almost high art, but with a wearability and kind of everyday components that really appealed to me.” Since then, Dimepiece has grown over 17,000 followers on Instagram, made up largely of women interested in the luxury watch market. 

“I just noticed the way that the consumer was spoken to. And there are certain trends where it’s like, ‘The man should buy this watch and go climb Mount Everest.’ And for the female watches, it was like, ‘Here is this dainty watch,’” says Wallner. “We [women] want to spend money on nice things and we already do that with bags and shoes, so why don’t we add watches to that?” she says. It’s a question that many are asking right now: According to Fashionphile, searches for “women’s watches” are up 92% since 2020. 

The younger generation is expressing interest in the market as well. Luxury watch-related content generated over 173 million views on TikTok, according to the app. With that in mind, popular creators like @nicovanderhorst, @topbrandwatches, @watchoutforalex, and @watch.eric are giving followers a front-row seat to the world of luxury watches, from videos about buying a watch for the first time to behind-the-scenes glimpses of a career in the watch world. 

Layne attributes the popularity of luxury resale sites as another reason for the secondhand watch boom: “While some items definitely are still quite expensive on the secondary market, with resale, there are more entry points.” While brands like Cartier and Rolex typically retain their retail value even when sold secondhand, other designer names are available on the resale market for much less. For example, the popular Heure watch by Hermès is available new for $3,000, while Rebag offers secondhand options for 50% less. What’s more, whereas before, potential customers would have to walk into a store with little knowledge of the different models and prices, they can now go online to find all the information they need to make an informed decision, all before the first appointment. 

@watchoutforalex

Since you liked the last one 😉 Which one is your favorite? ##rolex ##audemarspiguet ##patekphilippe ##richardmille ##luxurywatches ##dubai ##foryou ##fyp

♬ Sensual Days of the week – Stefan Johnson

Then there is the general growth in the secondhand luxury market. Since the pandemic took hold, consumers have begun investing in long-lasting, quality items, with luxury sales set to beat pre-COVID numbers this year. On Rebag, most watches sell within a few days; a Rolex Batman (worth $20,000) watch sold in minutes.

“​​I think there’s a broader consumer base that now looks at watches as an investing category,” says Layne. “Customers and watch sellers are really doing their research, so they’re looking to see the potential value that they could get.” Layne says that demand for Rolex — the site’s top-selling watch brand — has helped it retain an average 82% resale value, with some models having a retention rate above up to 158%. 

Others are looking to watches for their sentimental value. In 2021, the global fashion search engine Lyst has reported a 42% increase in searches for “couple,” “engagement,” and “wedding” watches, with the Rolex Pre-owned 40mm Submariner being one of the most coveted styles. Much like engagement and wedding rings, high-end luxury watches are seen as a piece that could be passed down. 

As demand continues to grow, Layne doesn’t see this trend stopping: “We don’t think that that watch bubble is going to burst soon.”

Maybe it’s “time” to jump on the trend.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

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The Swooshiest Holiday Gifts You Can Score From Nike

There are certain tried-and-true heritage brands that always deliver fab holiday gift ideas because everything in its arsenal is high quality, reasonably priced, practical, and stylish. One prime example is the sporty-cool brand Nike (a longtime R29 fave), which is offering a ton of boxable options for every age range on your list this holiday season — including the ever-specific, ever-mysterious Gen Z set. Browse around and you’ll find “vintage” Nike logo-emblazoned workout gear, super puffy winter coats, statement sneakers made for getting photographed in, grab-and-go bags, and more. Ahead, check out our top picks from every clothing category that’s sure to surprise and delight even the most opinionated young critic in your book.

Nike Sportswear Fleece Pullover Hoodie, $75

The Tie-Dye Hoodie
Any clothing item that has a charming DIY look is bound to be a sure bet when it comes to gifting. This oversized hoodie is all style and no mess.

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Nike Fontanka Waffle, $100

The Street Style Sneaker
This eyeball-magnet of a remixed sneaker — which looks to be a classic style from the top with a modernized sole at bottom — has the ability to take a regular OOTD to an IG-worthy ‘fit.

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Nike Sportswear Therma-FIT City Series Down-Fill Jacket, $300

The Super Puffy Winter Jacket
Never overlook the coats and outerwear hiding within Nike’s online portal or you’ll miss gems like this fleece-covered down puffer jacket. We’re cozy just looking at it.

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Nike Sportswear Femme Dress, $65 $40.97

The Spaghetti Strap Dress
We’ve seen plenty of Y2K-inspired trends come through this year, but we think that this dress (from Nike of all places!) wins gold. The ribbed texture, the midi length, the spaghetti straps, the ’70s stripes, the side slits — it looks straight out of Delia’s if you ask us.

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Nike Dri-FIT Indy Icon Clash Light-Support Padded T-Back Sports Bra, $40

The Houndstooth Underthing
In a year where it was checkerboard everything, we’re relieved to see a pattern that is of the same family of classic patterns but refreshingly its own thing. (Plus, who doesn’t love a printed sports bra?) Houndstooth: let’s bring it back.

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Nike Sportswear Collection Essentials Pants, $70

The Loosey-Goosey Cropped Jogger
At first glance, it looks like ordinary sweatpants but upon closer inspection you’ll see the design details that truly matter — the tapered leg, the cropped length, the baggy fit, and the heathered-out logo. It’s no wonder this is one of Nike’s highly-rated styles.

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Nike Therma-FIT Fleece Training Sweatshirt, $65

The Mockneck Fleece
Fleece is everywhere this season, which makes it tough to find sherpa items that are truly unique and special. Then came along this pullover sweatshirt: it’s got a mockneck, waist cinch, and two (!) side pockets.

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Nike Heritage Waistpack, $25

The Throwback Fanny Pack
It’s the crossbody bag of choice if your gift recipient prefers to go about their days hands-free. This stashable, $25 waistpack holds the right amount of stuff and it comes in an array of cute color-blocked options.

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Nike Air Max Koko Serena Design Crew Sandals, $110

The Platform Sandal
Nike’s take on the chunky summer sandal is an incredibly bouncy one and I recommend that you cop a pair immediately, even if it needs to be saved for warmer days. (Full disclosure: I own a pair and they’re absolute fire.) Or, if you live in a non-wet climate, wear them with socks.

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Nike Sportswear Essential High-Waisted Leggings, $45

The Vintage-y Legging
The emblazoned Nike logo on the lower left leg is a simple move, but a crucial one — it somehow makes this contemporary-fit legging look like it could be from an earlier decade. In other words, it’s a perfect logo slap.

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Nike Everyday Plus Lightweight Training Ankle Socks, $20

Super Chic Workout Socks
Sweaty feet deserve cute socks too! This pack of three breathable, wicking pairs of socks is going to elevate whatever game is being played.

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Nike Sportswear Essential Bike Shorts, $50

The Trippy Biker Short
Nike takes the Y2K smiley face motif and turns it on its happy head (many times over) with this very fun take on the classic bike short.

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At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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