Wednesday, December 15, 2021

Collar Up: Winter’s Biggest Coat Trends Are Peak Cottagecore

This season’s coat trends are here to remind us that cottagecore isn’t going anywhere, with quilted textures, coats with prairie collars, and fashion-forward flannel jackets all rising in popularity among shoppers. 

We should have seen this coming: Earlier this year, Chloé showed a fall 2021 collection that included quilted and floral puffer jackets, paired with romantic and knitted dresses. Designer Ulla Johnson also gave the “cottagecore-meets-cabincore” trend her stamp of approval, with a lineup that included cozy flannel coats and jackets with oversized, statement sleeves. Meanwhile, Shrimps recently unveiled its resort drop, filled with prairie-collared, fuzzy coats, as well as sweaters and winter accessories with flower motifs. 

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that this winter’s outerwear trends are looking to inject romantic and ethereal vibes into our lives. The cottagecore trend first emerged in 2020, when lockdowns and social distancing measures had our collective psyche fantasizing about walks in the woods and making sourdough bread for a living. But as the pandemic continues to unfold, little has changed to assure us that stay-at-home orders are a thing of the past. And fashion brands have taken notice. 

After TikTok propelled the growth of the home-y aesthetics, the trends made their way from the runways to the shelves. Laura Ashley and Batsheva partnered earlier this year with a cottagecore-inspired collection of dresses, while Ganni and Depop introduced a collection with Peter Pan-inspired collars and Hill House teamed up with Bridgerton on a collection of floral nap dresses. 

Added bonus: At a time when freezing temperatures offer little inspiration to even get dressed, this statement coat trend requires little styling. (Though if you want to go for a full cottagecore look, pair a prairie-collared number or a quilted, pattern-clashing jacket with flower-printed, flowy dresses, crochet sweaters, and chunky hiking boots.)

Let your new winter coat transport you to greener pastures with our picks, below.

Quilted Coats

Quilted jackets are leading the cottagecore movement this winter, with clashing floral and checked prints, as well as patchwork and cloud-like textures, popping up in stores everywhere. This style is anything but minimalist, so leave the rest of the styling simple.

Puff Sleeves

Puff sleeves can add a romantic flair — not to mention, dramatic volume — to an otherwise-ordinary winter coat.

Flannel Jackets

This winter’s flannel jackets aren’t just for a walk in the woods, with brands offering new colorways and fashion-forward silhouettes.

Prairie Collars

The prairie collar trend accompanied many of us through the spring and summer with ethereal dresses and shirts. So if you’re not ready to let go yet, here’s your chance to hold on.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Keep Winter At Bay With A Comfy-Chic Coat

Why Après Ski Is Trending This Season

Move Over Cottagecore, Cabincore Is Taking Over

Monday, December 13, 2021

The Meaning Behind The Clashing-Colored Costumes Of West Side Story

For costume designer Paul Tazewell, the new West Side Story movie — directed by Steven Spielberg, out in theaters now — is a “full circle moment.” Back in high school, the Ohio native played Sergeant Krupke in a production of the famed musical. Even so, Tazewell says his familiarity with both the stage production and the 1961 movie adaptation didn’t make the task of creating costumes for this year’s remake any less intimidating. “That story is beloved by so many,” he says. “So that was the first daunting point: ‘How do I create a world that will stand up to the expectation of audiences?’”

Set in 1957, West Side Story follows two New York City gangs — the European-American Jets and the Puerto Rican Sharks — that are vying for ownership over Manhattan’s titular neighborhood. After a tragic event occurs, an even larger divide forms between the two groups. Caught in the middle of the feud are two young people in love — Maria (Rachel Zegler), who is Puerto Rican, and Tony (Ansel Elgort), who is Polish-American. 

To tell the story and emphasize the rift, Tazewell chose two different color palettes for the two camps. “It goes all the way back to Romeo and Juliet, when you’re setting up Montagues and the Capulets,” says Tazewell. “I wanted to take that point of view with the Jets and the Sharks.” In one scene (photo above), the Jets are inside the gym in blue, green, and gray shades. Meanwhile, the Sharks are in warm red, maroon, and brown hues, clashing with the cool palette of their sworn enemies. 

The styling choices were also markers of identity in the film. The Jets, for example, wear blue jeans, while the Sharks are always in neutral-toned slacks. For Tazewell, that choice became the building block for the rest of the costumes. “Denim has become so iconic for Americans that I thought it was absolutely appropriate for the Jets to mostly be in those,” he says. For the Sharks, though, he chose to reference black-and-white imagery from Manhattan in the 1950s and 1960s, pulling guayaberas — a men’s summer shirt, characterized by two vertical pleats — polo shirts, and high-waisted pants for the film. 

Rivalry and love story aside, West Side Story is a coming-of-age tale for its protagonist, Maria, which came through in costumes. The first time viewers see Maria, she’s getting dressed in a white lace number to attend her first dance in New York City. Right as she’s getting ready, Anita (Ariana DeBose) comes in with a red waist belt, which Tazewell says is a symbol of Maria becoming a woman. As she goes against her family by going on a date with Tony, Maria steps away from the white, wearing a maroon top-and-skirt combo instead. “She’s realizing that she has her own point of view,” says Tazewell. “She has a sense of style that is maturing.”

Although Tazewell referenced the work of costume designer Irene Sharaff, who worked on the Broadway musical and its film adaptation, he also tried to modernize the original looks. One of the most memorable pieces in the 1961 film is worn by Anita (then played by Rita Moreno), who wore a purple, short-sleeved dress with a full skirt, adorned with red, tulle ruffles underneath to perform “I Want To Live In America.” This time around, both the song, which has been heavily criticized for its remarks toward Puerto Rico, and the dress got an update, with Anita wearing a yellow version of the look that features a halter neckline with off-the-shoulder sleeves and bow details.

Then, there is the character of Valentina (Moreno), a new addition to the Spielberg remake. Valentina is a Puerto Rican woman, who was married to Doc (a character from the original musical) before he passed away, inheriting the drugstore they both owned. Tazewell worked closely with Moreno to create Valentina’s wardrobe, with the actress deciding her character should wear pants, not skirts. “I think it was a smart decision because she had taken on the pants of Doc, her husband,” he says. “She needed to have that kind of masculine grounding against all these boys that were coming into her space.” 

While working on remaking one of Broadway’s favorite productions may have seemed daunting at first, Tazewell says he came out the other side with a deeper understanding of the story’s place in our current climate. “We’re still struggling as Americans with how do we live together?” he says. “This film becomes very timely towards that and showing moments of great joy and great pain, and that is representative of where we are.”

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

An Icon Just Joined <em>West Side Story</em>

Rita Moreno Bares All In A Brave New Documentary

A <em>West Side Story </em>Remake Is Imminent

Friday, December 10, 2021

The Underrated Item That Will Pull Your Whole Outfit Together

High-fashion trends often feel like the reprise of some aesthetic you found profoundly uncool 11 years ago (think: sweat suits, overalls, chunky sneakers). And perhaps chief among today’s underdog sartorial movements is none other than the coupling of socks and sandals. Whomst among us could’ve guessed?

Following decades worth of peds and no-show ankle socks, it would seem that the sock as a pivotal accessory is finally having its moment. In fact, right now, you might even argue that the staple garment is as central to any well-constructed outfit recipe as, say, a top. Whether you’re sporting a school girl-inspired sock-and-Mary-Janes ensemble, or you’re going full-on “scumbro” with crew socks and some hotel pool slides, your socks can certainly make or break any intended aesthetic. Practical features (namely: warmth) are merely an added bonus. 

That’s why we’re partnering with tried-and-true sock brand Smartwool to give you all the intel you’ll need to sport the trendiest sock-forward looks right now.

The Combo: Ribbed Socks & Loafers


The Look: Adolescent Prep School Student

Classic menswear has always been a closet staple: Oxford button-downs, wide-legged trousers, loud academia-adjacent blazers. And the beloved sock-loafer combo, which may skew more boy than man, feels equal parts youthful, polished, and practical. It says “school boy” with a sophisticated twist. Test it out yourself with a classic, simple ribbed sock and a chunky, old-fashioned loafer like this leather pair from Vagabond. 

Smartwool Walk Light Ankle Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Vagabond Alex W Loafer, $, available at Vagabond

The Combo: Wool Socks & Hiking Boots


The Look: Gorpcore

In the realm of athleisure, we’ve certainly seen a spike in the “outdoorsy” subgenre: gorpcore. So this winter, bust out your zip-off pants and your densest Smartwool socks and let the world know that you have, indeed, considered hiking. Plus, practically speaking, your feet will certainly be glad for the added warmth — just make sure your socks are visible above your Danner hiking boots at all times.

Oh, and if you're in the market for a whole host of gorp-core sock items, spend some time with the Smartwool Sock Finder tool. We assure you, it won't let you down.

Smartwool Women's Everyday Popcorn Snowflake Pattern Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

The Combo: Athletic Socks & Slides


The Look: Reformed Frat Bro

It’s probably fair to assume that you’ve encountered several hundred frat bros sporting socks with Adidas slides. But Greek life aside, the “lazy, with intention” trend is on the rise. And with the arrival of winter, we’re certainly encouraging a sock that’ll warm your feet even when your outfit simply demands an open-toed shoe.

Smartwool Women's Everyday Cable Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Adidas Adilette Slide Sandals, $, available at Kohl's

The Combo: Classic Crew Socks & Chunky Sneakers

The Look: Orthopedist-Meets-Influencer

While chunky, orthopedic-style sneakers — which we once associated with foot surgery — have truly become a casual staple of high fashion, they’re nothing without an equally pragmatic, unsexy crew sock to match. 

Smartwool Athletic Targeted Cushion Stripe Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Fila Electrove 2 Sneaker, $, available at Revolve

The Combo: Textured Socks & Heeled Sandals


The Look: Elevated Vacation Dad

The ultimate fashion faux pas made cool: a delicate sandal paired with a folded crew sock. While the OG trend may hark back to bulky practical “walking sandals” reminiscent of parents parading their children around Disneyland, we like a more refined MNZ-style sandal — with a heel, if possible — and an equally dainty sock to match.

Smartwool Women's Everyday Texture Ankle Boot Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Maryam Nassir Zadeh Una Sandal, $, available at Maryam Nassir Zadeh

The Combo: Sweater Socks & Blundstones

The Look: Liberal Arts College RA

If you’re not ready to take on the full hiking boot look, opt for a more “liberal arts college” shoe like the classic Blundstone Chelsea boot. Designed for casual hiking — you know, just  in case you happen to find yourself unwittingly in the woods — the shoes are equally prominent in sceney bars and upscale restaurants. And it goes without saying that a good wide-ankle, chunky boot ought to be complemented by a pair of dense, holiday sweater-inspired socks like this version. 

Smartwool Women's Everyday Popcorn Polka Dot Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Blundstone Vegan Blundstone Chelsea Boot, $, available at Blundstone

The Combo: Striped Socks & Ballet Flats

The Look: Lolita-Chic

Sure, this one can skew a bit Lolita, but Mary Janes and ballet flats with a folded over ankle sock have made waves amongst fashion influencers in recent months. We’d recommend a structured sock that won’t slouch — like this reliable pair from Smartwool — to off-set the delicacy of the shoes themselves. 

Smartwool Women's Heritage Striped Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Loeffler Randall Leonie Ballet Flats, $, available at Bloomingdale's

The Combo: Bright Bobby Socks & Tennis Shoes

The Look: "Played Tennis Once"

“Bobby sock” is a phrase that once referred to the ankle-encasing socks typically worn with white recreational sneakers. And being that “tennis star” is among this season’s most popular aesthetics — pleated skirts, sweater vests, headbands — it certainly makes sense that you’d couple your classic courtside shoe with a pair of highly visible ankle-grazing socks. 

Smartwool Women's Everyday Color Block Cable Crew Socks, $, available at Smartwool

Nike Nike Court Royale 2, $, available at Nike

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Slope Style Is The New Street Style: Why Après Ski Is Trending This Season

Last year, when the first House of Gucci cast photo — featuring Adam Driver and Lady Gaga in ‘80s-style winter outfits — emerged online, it forecasted a big fashion trend: après ski-inspired attire. And while we’ve seen snow-ready fashion — including snowsuits and ski goggles — trending before, this season, the look is taking to the streets, rather than just the slopes.

For evidence, see the recent holiday campaigns. While Louis Vuitton showcased the new collection on models skiing, Coach featured celebs like Jennifer Lopez, Michael B. Jordan, Paloma Elsesser, and Barbie Ferreira enjoying a snowy day in New York City. Meanwhile, Prada’s “A Midwinter’s Night Dream” took a cinematic trip through a snowy Los Angeles. Months before, on the fall 2021 runways, Chanel’s lineup included a series of fashion-forward snowsuits; meanwhile, Miu Miu’s featured balaclavas, fur gloves, and padded boots, on models trekking through the snow.

While it’s somewhat expected to find winter gear in time for the cold-weather season, the brands have been taking the trend a step further in the last year, styling utilitarian snowsuits with more city-approved heels (Chanel), chunky winter boots with slip dresses (Miu Miu), and holographic puffer vests with designer bags (Louis Vuitton) — looks perfect for a hot toddy, whether it’s preceded by a ski run or not. 

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Chanel/Shutterstock (11792313ag) Model on the catwalk Chanel show, Runway, Fall Winter 2021/22, Paris Fashion Week, France – 09 Mar 2021

The slope-ready influence was also seen in recent mainstream fashion collaborations, including the Eddie Bauer x Baja East capsule — a gender-neutral collection, made up of snowsuits, puffer jackets, fanny packs, and pillow-like hats, that launched in October — and the Bogner x LoveShackFancy collection — that includes overalls-like snowsuits and ultra-feminine floral ski sets, available now. There’s also the latest installment of Gucci x The North Face, which includes pine-printed puffer jackets, overalls, and winter accessories.

As the pandemic shows little signs of letting up for good, and we continue to dine outdoors in cold temperatures and escape cities for the sprawling outdoors, shoppers are buying into the trend. Pinterest has seen an increase of 85% in searches related to après ski, with a 145% jump in inquiries for “après ski outfits.” Meanwhile, fashion shopping platform Lyst deemed balaclavas the accessory of the season, following a rise in searches for versions by Paloma Wool, Miu Miu, New Balance, and Weekday. In the shoe department, Moon Boots — a favorite of celebs like Paris Hilton back in the early 2000s — have become one of the comeback trends of the year, in large part to the Y2K fashion revival. 

The Old Farmer’s Almanac has predicted a cold, long, and snowy winter for the United States this year, so we might as well bundle up in style, whether a skiing trip in the works or not.

Get your après ski on with these options, below. 

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

Snowsuits Just Got Chanel's Stamp Of Approval

Why The Snowsuit Is Taking Over Instagram

4 Winter Outfits For Hard-To-Dress-For Situations