Schiaparelli’s Couture Show Included Archive References — & Sci-Fi-Inspired Looks

When our realities are confined to our homes and yet another year in the pandemic, it’s easy to imagine what life could be like in another universe. So it comes as no surprise that Schiaparelli’s creative director Daniel Roseberry wanted to evoke that feeling in the house’s spring 2022 couture collection. 

“What does fashion mean, what does fashion have to say, in an era in which everything is in flux?” asked Roseberry in the notes of the collection that debuted on Monday. “What does surrealism mean when reality itself has been redefined?” 

To answer those questions, the heritage house took over the Petit Palais in Paris to mark the beginning of Couture Week, with sculptural metal pieces, archival references, and orbital symbols all present on the runway. “The heavens [is] a place to escape from the chaos of our planet,” Roseberry wrote in the show notes. There were big, circular hats that resembled planetary rings; gold, crystal-encrusted gloves that rose up through the model’s hands like precious weeds; and celestial headpieces sprinkled throughout the 23 looks.

While Roseberry looked beyond planet Earth, the designer also referenced the house’s past. Take, for example, the Apollo of Versailles cape that Elsa Schiaparelli designed in the late ‘30s for actress and socialite Lady Mendl. Roseberry adapted it in the form of gold, confetti-like embellishments blowing up from a little black dress (another Elsa Schiaparelli signature) and round mesh adornments on a model’s wrists and head. The designer also referenced a 1936 Schiaparelli black jacket that featured gold, palm tree embellishments throughout the neckline and front of the garment. For the collection, Roseberry deconstructed this piece, giving it voluminous sleeves and heightening its design elements with metal sculptures on the shoulders.

All of the looks oozed surrealism, an artistic movement born in response to a time of war and economic upheaval in the 1920s. Artists like Salvador Dalí and René Magritte defined this era, as well as Elsa Schiaparelli herself, who embedded humorous and quirky details — ie. the house’s famous lobster — in her designs. As we once again find ourselves in a time of social and political upheaval, it is fitting that surrealism is appealing to fashion designers once again. 

The collection didn’t lack in drama factor. After two years in a pandemic, Roseberry has seen firsthand how living through this kind of limbo can make fashion seem “lackluster,” as he wrote in his show’s notes. His response is to look to the “empyreal.” While speaking to Vogue UK, Roseberry said that he’s lost count of how many times he’s watched Dune, the sci-fi film featuring Timothée Chalamet: “We kept saying ‘Planet Schiaparelli.’”

The collection signals we are all due for our own kind of Saturn return — or at least, a more heavenly future. For now, we can only dream. And, if you’re lucky, dress the part.

Take a look at the full Schiaparelli Couture spring 2022 collection, below.

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In Celebration of Tatyana Ali’s ‘90s Fashion Looks

When The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air hit television screens on September 10, 1990, young viewers weren’t just howling with laughter at the smart humor of the NBC sitcom; they were also awestruck at the fashion looks sported by Will and his cousins. Costumed by Judy Richman, who also outfitted A Different World, the show helped afrocentric street style become mainstream, and its influence in the fashion scene is still felt to this day. 

While Will’s fashion influence on the show can’t be denied, we can’t forget the immense impact of another Fresh Prince star—‘90s fashion icon Ashley Banks. Played by Afro-Panamanian actor Tatyana Ali, Banks was arguably one of her generation’s it-girls, and not just because she was the sweet-cool girl in the mansion next door. Her cropped denim jacket and mom jeans pairings inspired young people across race, culture, and class. 

Played by Afro-Panamanian actor Tatyana Ali, Banks was arguably one of her generation’s it-girls, and not just because she was the sweet-cool girl in the mansion next door.

Throughout the series’ six seasons, Bank’s character evolved from the silly youngest sibling enamored by her cousin from Philly to a self-assured young woman with an eye for trends, and her wardrobe reflected this transformation. In the series’ early years, Banks sported bold-printed sets and baggy, colorful outfits that reflected her cheerful personality and interest in hip-hop. It wasn’t until the fourth season that little Ashley became a major fashion inspiration. In it, we see her in the midst of teenagehood, forming her own personal style separate from the playful patterns of pre-teen clothing and homogeneous school uniforms. With her babydoll tees, mom jeans, tennis skirts, and combat boots, Ali’s character (and the actor herself) set the tone for ‘90s fashion. When Banks performed at a talent showcase in the first episode of the fifth season, “The Client, Part 1,” with a black bra top, cropped dark denim jacket, and light-wash mom jeans, the outfit—which reflected the decade’s fashion zeitgeist—immediately became one of Banks’ most memorable looks and outfit inspiration for young viewers entering adolescence. Banks’ style after season four showcased the character’s growth as an individual and as a musical artist. 

Like Alicia Silverstone’s Cher Horowitz, and other fictional fashion icons of the time, the actor behind the role of Ashley Banks became a major trendsetter, too. In the music video for her melodic hit “Boy You Knock Me Out,” from her 1998 album Kiss The Sky, Ali showed us how to perfectly rock a cropped tank and a pair of loose-fitting bootcut jeans. And let’s not overlook Ali’s red carpet looks, such as the iconic pastel purple ensemble she wore for the 1999 Teen Choice Awards or the black mini dress layered over a white tank she wore for a Kids’ Choice Awards orange carpet.

At a time when teen magazines like Teen Beat and Bop were filled with white pop stars and models, Ali’s role as a ‘90s fashion icon was particularly meaningful for young Black girls and women, especially Afro-Latinas who rarely saw themselves on-screen or on the pages of popular glossies. As an actor-turned-singer, Ali’s rise to fame coincided with the entertainment world’s so-called “Latin Explosion.” However, unlike the white Latina stars of that era—namely Jennifer Lopez, Shakira, and Christina Aguilera—Ali’s massive popularity didn’t secure her spot in this Latinx pop culture detonation. So for many Afro-Latinas growing up in the mid- to-late ‘90s, Ali was a breath of fresh air—someone to emulate in the worlds of TV and pop music who actually looked like them.

For many Afro-Latinas growing up in the mid- to-late ‘90s, Ali was a breath of fresh air—someone to emulate in the worlds of TV and pop music who actually looked like them.

Although The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air aired its final episode on May 20, 1996, Ali and her peers continue to sway present-day style trends, especially as Gen Zers take on ‘90s fashion. As a Gen Zer myself, much of my wardrobe choices take inspiration from the outfits worn by my favorite ‘90s and early 2000s television characters, such as Ashley Banks. When I watch episodes now of a series that aired at a time before I was conceived, I’m energized by the pieces worn by Ashley and her older sister, Hilary. I can often be found scavenging the racks of thrift shops and thumbing through Depop listings in search of the best matching tank and cardigan sets or ‘90s waistcoats to layer over everything from button-downs to plain white tees and turtlenecks. Scrolling through my social media feeds, I also notice how ‘90s fashion trends have infiltrated the closets of my generation––with their babydoll tees, tennis skirts, and excessive-yet-chic layering. 

While the cultural impact of Will’s funky, print-filled closet is easy to spot in today’s street style, Ali’s fashion picks, both as Ashley Banks and the actor-singer behind the role, continues to inform the styles of fashion it-girls of the new millennium—and for that, she deserves all of her flowers.

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Catbird’s Birth Flower Charms Beat Your Classic Bouquet

You can find NYC-based Catbird‘s delicate pieces the world over, from the halls of Buckingham Palace to the streets of Brooklyn. While it counts Meghan Markle, Taylor Swift, and Emma Watson among its many fans, Catbird doesn’t come with the A-list price tag one might expect from this star-studded roster. The brand’s best-selling stackable rings and minimalist hoops, fashioned from ethically sourced materials, have garnered somewhat of a cult following, in large part due to its designs starting at under $100 (the duchess’s Threadbare Ring, for example, is just $44). Aside from its beloved Holy Cannoli charm, Catbird’s latest capsule collection might just be the sweetest yet, and it certainly beats the classic bouquet as a gifting pick for Valentine’s Day.

Earlier this week, Catbird launched its Poetry of Flowers collection featuring hand-engraved birth flower charms crafted from 14K recycled gold, with prices ranging from $158 to $178. Each piece has an original drawing of the flower associated with its specific month (snowdrops for January, for example, daisies for April, roses for June) with its meaning etched on the backside. Chief Creative Officer Leigh Plessner describes these charms as little snow globes filled with lots of unique details.

“We had been searching for a way to express time, seasons, and birth months while allowing for openness of choice and motion across a collection,” Plessner tells R29. “Birth flowers are a lovely tradition that incorporates floriography, the language and meaning of flowers, and seasonality.” Her personal favorite: Lily of the valley, which is paired with May, the month in which they bloom.

While these special petals are not as popular as birthstones, their glittery counterparts, the birth flower trend is certainly blooming, offering an equally sentimental alternative for a giftee who’s all set on the stone front. The idea behind this botanical tradition is that the characteristics of each month’s flower reflect the potential traits inherited by individuals with birthdays at that time, meaning this is an unexpected way to celebrate your own creativity (if you’re a daffodil-donning March baby), or to pay homage to an admirable quality in someone else (we’re looking at you, poppy people of August and your excellent memories). What’s more: The charm you choose is certainly not limited to a corresponding date.

“You can give a birth month, or the month you met, or your child’s birth month, or as a memento mori for a loved one lost. I also think it would be so special to choose the flower that most calls to mind your loved one, and whose qualities (each charm has two qualities engraved on the back) are tied to your beloved,” Plessner explains.

To shake up your usual gifting routine this Valentine’s Day—or whichever occasion typically calls for an online bouquet order—explore the full selection of what Plessner has dubbed “poem charms” on Catbird’s website for the most meaningful kind of flower present you can find.

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The Latest Fringe Trend Is The Most Optimistic — And Fitting — Spring Trend

The coronavirus pandemic has made us feel stagnant in many ways. The coming and going of new variants and constant threats of yet another lockdown have made it hard to move ahead and plan for the future. In turn, movement is what we’re all yearning for. So it comes as no surprise that fringe, one of spring 2022’s most defining trends, exhibits exactly that: our collective desire to forge forward in our most festive attire. 

Proenza Schouler’s spring 2022 collection featured vibrant-hued maxi dresses with cascading fringe skirts that swayed in the wind as the models walked through the newly-inaugurated Little Island’s amphitheater overlooking New York’s Hudson River. Meanwhile, Jonathan Simkhai showed airy, crochet dresses that came undone in delicate fringe hemlines, with models walking in and out of the indoor-outdoor venue. Then, there is Chloé’s spring 2022 lineup, which designer Gabriela Hearst embedded with colorful fringe details over a muted color palette, displayed along the Seine River in Paris. The combination of fringe and open space signaled the optimism designers are feeling for a post-pandemic world — when we are all ready to leave our houses for good and celebrate.

Since the pandemic took hold, many trends from the roaring ‘20s and excess ‘80s have made a comeback. It makes sense: The flapper era — filled with The Great Gatsby-esque parties and sequins — followed WWI. Meanwhile, the ‘80s trailed two decades filled with social and political upheaval (sound familiar?). Thanks to the recent Omicron wave, we’re not yet in full party mode. It’s a good thing then that designers are bringing trends, like fringe, party embellishments, and statement sleeves, in ways we can wear in our everyday lives. Fendi’s fall 2021, for example, included fringe, furry coats paired with minimalist slip dresses, while Proenza Schouler showed fringe-adorned pieces in otherwise-simple silhouettes. 

Fringe has been around for a long time in fashion (see: the ’20s and the ’60s), but this latest wave is infused with more details than just dangly pieces of fabric hanging from one’s legs. Jonathan Simkhai’s designs were adorned with knots, while Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s take on the trend appeared in the form of layered, waterfall-like skirts. Designers are also forgoing fabric altogether to create fringed hemlines, much like Proenza Schouler’s beaded, pendulous embellishments. 

Although it may seem that, much like the fringed hemlines, we’ve all come undone in this pandemic, this fashion trend is reminding us to look ahead. To days when we are not only moving forward but dancing into the future. 

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