Friday, April 1, 2022

Why Virtual Avatars Are Poised To Be The New Trendsetters

As a kid, Kelsey Impicciche hoped for a closet just like Cher Horowitz’s in Clueless, fantasizing about flipping through each outfit option on a screen before deciding on a look: “That was my dream.” 

Decades later, she gets to do it — sort of. Impicciche is a professional gamer and streamer with over 120,000 followers on Twitch and over 700,000 on YouTube. In particular, she is known for her videos on the popular life simulation game The Sims. Through her content, Impicciche walks her audience through her experiences in The Sims 4, the 2014 version of the popular game, which range from dressing her avatars in the game’s wide selection of trendy digital clothes to following other gamers’ challenges.

But while for many, fashion is a minor part of the gaming experience, for Impicciche, it’s an expression of personal style. “I think what’s exciting and unique about this… [is] the amount of you that you bring to the game,” she says. And, like Cher’s revolving wardrobe, digital fashion gives her seamlessly endless options to consider.

Virtual avatars have existed almost as long as gaming itself. But over time The Sims’ early grainy options of basics became designer-worthy clothes good enough to wear in real life. Thanks to the rapid development of digital wearables and the expansion of downloadable fashion assets for virtual avatars (more on both below) on games like Animal Crossing and Fortnite, avatars can be identical to our human selves, whether in a video game, like Sims, or in metaverse platforms, like Decentraland and Second Life. 

According to a recent study, titled “The Screenwear Paper,” by Virtue — the in-house insights agency at Vice Media Group (Refinery29’s parent company) — super-personalized avatars will become commonplace in everyone’s lives over the next three years. This will create a demand for digital fashion, a phenomenon that is already manifesting: According to the study, 95% of those surveyed say they are interested in buying digital fashion; of those surveyed, 82% revealed that they had already bought some type of digital fashion. 

In turn, brands like Gucci and Balenciaga have jumped on the opportunity to establish their presence in the digital world, by releasing digital wearables — clothes you can wear online — non-fungible tokens (NFTs) — garments owned in online spaces that can be sold and traded — and skins — a graphic download that changes the appearance of a virtual character. Back in 2020, Balenciaga even presented its Fall 2021 collection via a video game, titled “Afterworld: The Age Of Tomorrow.” (Last year, the brand also partnered with gaming platform Fortnite to release a collection of digital wearables.) Meanwhile, Gucci has teamed up with games and metaverse platforms ranging from The Sims to Genies and Roblox to create clothes for virtual avatars. 

For Impicciche, the rapidly-evolving world of digital fashion is exciting, mainly because she’s always seen the virtual world as a limitless journey of self-expression. “Since I was a kid, I really liked building [my avatar] in The Sims,” she says. “Sometimes I’d create them and never even play with them.” According to the Virtue study, 70% of people agree, selecting the ability to build an identity in the metaverse as the main reason for purchasing digital fashion.

For some, it’s also a chance to experiment with their style without committing to the change IRL. “I’ve done a version of myself where I took myself looking like me and dyed her hair black, and I made all her outfits entirely something I would never wear. And it was fun to see this alternate version of myself play out,” says Impicciche. 

While Impicciche loves the creative freedom that digital avatars provide, others may find it overwhelming, which has led to a rise in metaverse stylists. A pioneering figure in this space is Gemma Shepard, who signed on with metaverse platform Roblox this year to help users build their digital fashion personas. “The metaverse is the place where anyone can express themselves through fashion so for brands it’s untapped territory for connecting with customers and also road-testing new designs because if it’s popular in the metaverse, it’ll likely fly in store,” Sheppard told Grazia earlier this year. “I’m super intrigued by the idea of uniting real and virtual life.”

And already the IRL and virtual fashion experiences are merging seamlessly. Last week, Decentraland celebrated its first Metaverse Fashion Week, alongside designers like Giuseppe Zanotti, Elie Saab, and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as digital-first brands like Auroboros. And just like a real fashion week, the street style mattered just as much as the runway shows: Virtual avatars were dressed in Decentraland’s array of accessories and clothing, modeling their real-life counterparts. While the technology may not be able to mimic a street style experience (complete with photographers and honking cars waiting for influencers to move out of the way) yet, it’s easy to see how walking around the platform’s Fashion District — a designated area within the metaverse built for the event — could incite a desire to dress the part. 

“It’s super fascinating to see a fully digital experience being more normalized,” says Impicciche. “It’ll become more and more commonplace.” Maybe then, there will be no need to imagine a Cher-like closet — it’ll be real.

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Meet The Kidcore Stylist Who’s A “Sustainable Maximalist”

Instagram’s best-dressed have one thing in common: they each have a signature style item that they wear more often and better than anyone else. For one person, it could be a string bikini, worn on and off the beach. For another, it’s a uniquely retro aesthetic. Whatever the piece may be, it’s their thing. With our column My Thing, we’re talking with those same experts about that one specific item they have made into their signature — and style unlike anyone else.

Maximalism is all about doing the absolute most, and it’s no surprise that the style has taken off as we emerged from the pandemic. Following lockdowns, many put their plain white tees to rest for all things printed, textured, colorful, and embellished. And when it comes to over-the-top fashion, nobody does it quite like 26-year-old stylist and content creator Sara Camposarcone. 

“I’ve definitely come into my own personal style over the last few years,” says Camposarcone who’s based in Hamilton, Ontario in Canada. “I like having a lot to look at. It keeps things interesting, fun, and youthful. I feel like I dress like a kid sometimes which I love. I wear whatever makes me happy.” From bright tutus to larger-than-your-head bows and fuzzy accessories, Camposarcone really takes kidcore and dopamine dressing to a whole new level. 

“I call myself a sustainable maximalist because my style is very eclectic and 95% of my closet is secondhand or vintage.” With sustainability in mind, Camposarcone will only make the purchase if she can come up with 10 different looks for it. “I also love to shop small designers and brands,” she says. Some of her faves include Philadelphia-based Room Shop Vintage which makes small-batch zero-waste satin scrunchie accessories and Etsy shop Makmak Handmade, which uses vintage bedsheets as fabrics.  

Exploring resale platforms like Poshmark, eBay, and Depop helped to develop her aesthetic and find out what she genuinely likes. Her go-to look (which her 380K TikTok followers can’t get enough of) consists of detachable collars, tulle petticoats, bold pantsuits, and platform shoes — and yes, all potentially worn together on any given day. “I love piling on hair accessories, rosy blush, and vivid lipstick,” adds Camposarcone. More is more (just check out her tattoo for the proof).

Click through to see how she styles her impressively outlandish wardrobe.
Opera gloves because why not be swanky as heck?

Sometimes wearing Crocs on your feet just isn’t enough. 

Table linens but make it fashion. 

Loofahs aren’t just for the shower. 

Monochrome dressing — done maximally. 

Now this is clowncore chic. 

Put on a tutu. Or three.

These gold platforms are taking us to new heights. 

Never enough arm candy. 

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Thursday, March 31, 2022

Shopping When You’re Plus-Size Isn’t Therapeutic — Just Ask These Women

Plus-size shoppers have been frustrated. Ahead are just a few of the dozens of responses I received after asking about their shopping experiences, both before and during the pandemic. And while the details naturally varied person to person, one overarching theme rang true throughout each and every conversation. The fashion industry isn’t size-inclusive, and it shows in the options it provides for them:

“I don’t want fast-fashion pieces that fall apart after one wear. I don’t wear expensive basics that cost double or triple the price they are worth. I don’t want another body-con dress, nor do I want a muumuu. I want items actually made to fit my body.” 

“We are told that brands can’t afford to produce garments with the same margin for us as our smaller counterparts because the cost of the fabric it would take to cover our bodies is too high.” 

“As an adult, I’ve always struggled to find knee, or right under-the-knee, high boots that fit my calves — at this point, I’ve essentially resigned myself to not wearing any ever again.”

In July, plus-size influencer and fashion designer Gabi Gregg — or, as most of her 814k Instagram followers know her, Gabi Fresh — called out Topshop on Twitter for advertising a blazer as “oversized” on a thin model despite not offering sizes above a 14. Her tweet read: “When brands say it’s too expensive to add plus sizes because of the amount of fabric it takes, but then make shit like this lol.” On Instagram, she added: “If you can make a size 22 blazer for a size 6 girl to wear, you can make a size 22 blazer for a size 22 girl to wear.” More than 78k people liked the post. The 1.4k comments are filled with complaints from real women about how the plus-size retail space has failed them. 

And Topshop is hardly the only brand guilty of this. Zara, & Other Stories, Free People, and more fashion brands with similar price points and styles have also designed purposely oversized items for their clientele whilst continuing to offer no options above size 14. “It underlines an unspoken trend in fashion, which is that whatever a thin celebrity wears becomes trendy, but the same rules don’t apply to plus women,” says Annika Chaloff, the founder of plus-size lingerie brand Hey Mavens. “Bike shorts, baggy tees, mom jeans, and chunky sneakers are good examples of trends that are generally accepted only on thin bodies.” 

It’s important to note that plus-size women do not want brands to simply throw some extra fabric on a design made for straight sizes, label it as plus-size, and pat themselves on the back. Under Gregg’s tweet, a user named Elena replied with: “Don’t give them ideas, they’re going to sew in an XXL size tag and leave the tiny arm holes,” proving just how little faith the plus-size community has in terms of the quality and design of garments that do come in their size. “I want care put into designs and structures so that garments fit my body,” says Universal Standard shopper Audrey Sopata.

The case of “oversized” clothing trends is only one of the many disappointing aspects of shopping as a plus-size woman. The sheer lack of options was one of the most common frustrations expressed to me. “If I had to pick one thing, I would just want to see MORE plus-size options,” Chaloff says. “I want to see more shops and brands carrying and creating plus styles. I want to see more plus models used in campaigns. I want to see more labels coming onto the market that cater to plus size. More more more!” Chaloff goes on to reiterate the importance of preserving the design of garments as the size is graded up from a straight size. Plus-size women still want clothes that fit, which really isn’t asking a lot. “Oftentimes, the integrity of the design of a piece will get distorted as it gets graded to a larger size, either because proportions aren’t carefully considered or because extra seams or panels are added to accommodate a larger body. Some of these changes are necessary to maintain proper fit, but it is a shame when the original design of a garment is compromised.”

And it’s not just clothing. Jewelry, footwear, and accessory designers also need to step up to the plate and offer more thoughtful options for women sizes 14 and up. Alyssa Kaplan, the founder of The Scrunchie Club, an accessories brand that caters to womxn and non-binary people of all sizes, has experienced frustration when shopping for boots in her size. Kaplan explains that in trying to find a pair of knee-high boots, she realized that rarely do footwear brands make fashionable styles that are wide enough in the calf to fit her, so much so, that she’s given up on the silhouette entirely. To prove that she wasn’t alone in this struggle, Kaplan conducted a survey last year that showed that 95.3% of women (96% of the 275 respondents identified as plus-size) have experienced trouble shopping for boots that fit their calves. Sopata, a shoe size 11 wide, says that most stores do not go past a size 10; if they do, they rarely carry a wide size. “In order to find a new shoe that fits and that I like, I usually have to go on a deep hunt that requires me to order online and hope for the best,” she says. 

The plus-size jewelry industry is also limited. Last year, the founder of popular plus-size lifestyle and fashion blog The 12ish Style Katie Sturino told The Zoe Report that “the current state of size inclusivity within the jewelry industry is almost non-existent.” She went on to explain that while the industry has “bigger fish to fry,” there’s still a “clear need for extended sizing in jewelry. Every item that is available in straight sizes should also be made available in extended, and I know there’s a market for this just like with clothes.” Even handbags, which are often misconstrued as one-size-fits-all, need to up their game when it comes to cross-body styles and shoulder bags. 

“It’s not so much fun for your friends to see you get discouraged and have to leave a store empty-handed because they just don’t sell your size,”

– Audrey Sopata

The issue of in-store placement — especially in department stores, which are often some of the only places that women sizes 14 and up can find a range of items in their size — also continues to disappoint many plus-size women. “Brands that do offer a wider range of sizes in a department store should have all their clothing displayed near each other,” Sopata says. She poses two valid questions: (1) “Why is straight-size Calvin Klein on the bottom floor, but plus-size Calvin Klein is upstairs and in the corner?” and, (2) “How does separating plus and straight encourage me to shop with a group of friends when I am already separated from them?” For Sopata, the very act of having to drag her friends to an entirely different part of the store just to “be disappointed that none of the cute clothing you saw on the bottom floor is available for you to wear” takes away the fun of shopping with friends — or at all — entirely. “It’s also not so much fun for your friends to see you get discouraged and have to leave a store empty-handed because they just don’t sell your size,” she adds. 

Sopata isn’t alone in her grievances. When Emma Grede and Khloé Kardashian launched their size-inclusive denim brand Good American at Nordstrom, they put pressure on the Seattle-based retailer to merchandise all of their products in the designer denim section, regardless of size. “We started Good American because we want women’s shopping experiences to embrace the new body ideal,” Grede told Nordstrom at the time of the launch. “It’s just crazy that we still have plus sizes and are splitting up friends who go shopping together into different departments based on their size.” According to Digiday, the duo’s insistence was an “a-ha” moment for the retailer. It’s since begun implementing more inclusive merchandising tactics both in-stores and online. Nordstrom has also increased its budget for plus-sizes. 

Even with Nordstrom’s advances and others, the department store sector often still falls short. “Just recently, while visiting family in Orlando, I discovered that the plus-size section at Macy’s is still hidden in the back of a high floor,” Sopata tells me. “Walking back to that section, you can see the clothing become less and less fashionable; the dismissive designs and the lack of style is an indication that you must now be in the plus-size section of the store. After the plus-size revolution that has happened over the last seven or so years, I cannot believe that these unflattering frocks offered to plus-sizes in department stores are still a thing,” she says. 

She’s right — the fashion industry has come a long way since Eloquii, a go-to for plus-size women who want quality clothing that’s also on-trend and affordable, launched in 2012. Luxury offerings have increased dramatically in the last few years with the launch of plus-size designer retailer 11 Honoré in 2017, followed by plus-size fashion editor Lauren Chan’s designer workwear brand Henning in 2019. Fashion brands such as Anthropologie, J.Crew, H&M, and Mango have all introduced extended sizing, and Universal Standard has further increased its already history-making size range. After launching in 2016, Good American has become a good resource for plus-size women to find denim, activewear, and now loungewear that fits their unique proportions well. One brand, Pari Passu, is changing the way plus-size clothing is sized entirely, by designing according to body shape rather than a number.

But during the pandemic, when nothing is certain and businesses are closing right and left, The wins that the plus-size industry has seen in the last few years aren’t necessarily set in stone. In fact, Ascena Retail Group, which owns and operates plus-size brands like Lane Bryant and Cacique, was recently forced to close down all 264 Catherines store locations. (The intellectual property assets for Catherines were sold to Australian brand City Chic Collective.) The parent company also permanently closed a number of Lane Bryant and Lane Bryant Outlet locations. The momentum around plus-size fashion needs to keep going, or else the majority of women in the U.S. — those of which are size 16 to 18 — are going to continue feeling frustrated and left out when shopping for something as simple as the clothing they wear on a daily basis. Things are hard enough as it is right now — shopping shouldn’t add to that. 

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Wednesday, March 30, 2022

R29 Staffers Review Lululemon’s Award-Winning Leggings

We often run into products that not only have to be seen to be believed but also put to the test. Tried & True is where we suss out these trending goods & services by taking them for an IRL spin to discover if they’re up to snuff. 

Dear zen-seeking yogis, mid-day power walkers, and anyone who just likes rocking athleisure attire, we found the ever-elusive perfect pair of leggings. The lululemon InStill High-Rise Tight might already be on your radar after its launch last September was followed by serious fanfare. The popular activewear brand’s latest legging innovation is famed for combining Align-quality softness with Wunder-level compression — or, what Goldilocks suiting up for a yoga class might call “just right.” Unsurprisingly, these high-rise tights were designed specifically with yoga in mind; providing an overall fit the brand describes as “a hugged feel” that “stays put so you don’t have to pull them up mid practice.” Other bells n’ whistles include lululemon’s trademark SmoothCover fabric (a blend of 74% nylon and 26% lycra elastane), a 25″ inseam, a back drop-in pocket, ten colorway options, and sizes ranging from 0-20.

Ever since our beauty and wellness writer’s glowing review of the InStill Tight was published in the fall of 2021, we began to notice an upward trend of our readers adding the style to their carts. Priced at a premium of $128 and still consistently clocking in as a top-purchased item, month after month, our interests were more than piqued. And finally, after winning the Leggings 2.0 title in our second-ever MVP Awards this past January, we decided it was high time for the entire team to give these legendary tights a try.

For the purposes of our group review, lululemon graciously provided each participant with their own pair of InStill High-Rise Tights to test as they pleased. Aside from ranging in preferred size, colorway, and activity, the below testers also range in levels from lululemon devotees to absolute newbies. Read on to discover what exactly all the hype is about when it comes to the real-life fit, feel, and appeal of these award-winning/reader-favorite/wellness-writer-approved workout pants.

I’ve never worn a more incredible pair of leggings at the airport.

Mercedes Viera

InStill High-Rise Tight 25″, $128 (Black)

“My ideal when it comes to leggings is comfort. I don’t work out, so I don’t care whether or not it sucks me in, or how sweatproof the fabric is, or any of that. I only care about how perfect they are for lounging — and these are perfect for that! They’re buttery-soft and a winner in my book.

I recently put them to the test on a trip. The leggings were a part of my travel outfit both ways, and honestly? I’ve never worn a more incredible pair of leggings at the airport. They’re not too thin that you’ll be cold, and they’re not too thick that you’ll sweat right away. As for physical activity, I think these would actually be perfect for yoga or any low-impact activity.

I don’t know how many times I can express how soft these leggings are! That’s definitely my favorite and best part. The only negative is, with a 25-inch inseam, they’re a tiny bit too long on me — but that’s every pair of leggings I’ve ever owned, and it doesn’t really bother me.

I definitely recommend them! I love these leggings so much — can you tell? — and if you’re looking for something that’s lounging-perfect, these are IT!” – Mercedes Viera, Associate Deals Writer

The best way to describe the feel of the InStill Tights is like wearing supportive butter.

Elizabeth Buxton

InStill High-Rise Tight 25″, $128 (Bronze Green)

“Surprisingly enough, these are my first-ever pair of lululemon leggings — and, after hearing all the hype about the InStill Tights from many a Shopping teammate and R29 reader, my first impressions of the best-selling style did not disappoint. Even before pulling them on, I could tell they were well made. The material felt silky but substantial; the creamy artichoke (aka bronze green) colorway was soothing yet eye-catching.

The best way to describe the feel of the InStill Tights is like wearing supportive butter. These are, without a doubt, the most flattering pair of leggings I own. I cannot get over how velvety soft they are, without feeling too thin or revealing on my legs, booty, and (especially) crotch areas — an issue I often run into with many of my other lightweight leggings.

My ideal leggings aren’t too thick OR too thin — I want them to be compressive, but also lightweight and breathable. Additionally, I’m partial to high-waisted seamless styles that provide a smooth and streamlined silhouette instead of lower-rise and cropped or compartmentalized by chaotic seaming patterns. Oh, and pockets, leggings with pockets are very important. The InStill Tights are all of these things.

I’ve been putting these leggings to the physical test for the past month, doing a range of activities in them on multiple days out of the week: working from home in them; binging Netflix on the couch in them while hungover; walking the dog in them; taking hot yoga classes in them; running in them on very cold days; traveling on a plane in them; running errands in them; going to brunch in them; etc. The applicable possibilities for wear and tear on these babies are endless.

The leggings held up super well throughout my past few weeks of testing. They seemed to move with me and adapt to each activity or task: feeling breathable and stretchy when things got sweaty and tight; keeping me warm and contained when things got high-impact and frigid.

I am obsessed with the InStill Tight’s smooth seam that runs up the crotch area and connects to the waistband — it creates an unexpected flattering-dip shape to the waist, like a less extreme version of the viral cross-over-style leggings.

If there were one thing I had to critique about these leggings, it would be the steep price. (If they were less, I would buy a pair in every single colorway.) But, the quality IS there — so, I foresee these lasting me a long time without degrading or fading.

Having not previously considered myself a member of the lululemon Stan Club, I can now proclaim that this pair has turned me. I 100% would recommend them (and have) to those looking for a quality pair of wear-everywhere leggings. The InStill Tights are 10/10 on everything from cute to comfortable and high-performance-friendly.” – Elizabeth Buxton, Senior Affiliate Director

The soft, comfortable feeling and weight of the leggings are definitely the best part.

Chichi Offor

InStill High-Rise Tight 25″, $128 (Dark Red)

“For me, an ideal legging feels soft and comfortable on my skin which these definitely live up to. I look for leggings that stay put during physical activity and these require the occasional adjusting. I’m not sure if that’s because of the sizing. I did get a size 20, the largest size currently offered. Perhaps a slightly larger size would have held put better or maybe the design could allow a little more for a curvy belly.

To test them out, I walked and did yoga as well as some standard calisthenics. For walking and yoga, it was mostly fine. I did have to do a little bit of adjusting because the waistband would slide down a little.

The soft, comfortable feeling and weight of the leggings are definitely the best part. I really don’t like when leggings are too compressive because it makes me feel like I cannot breathe, and these are far from that. I also like the color — I’ve been wanting a vibrant pair of red leggings, so I was pleased with how they IRL because sometimes that can be off compared to the website. I’d recommend them for someone my size or smaller. I do think sizing wise anyone larger might run into fit issues. I think lululemon should extend sizes further, but this is a sentiment I’ve felt for a while.” – Chichi Offor, Associate Writer

There’s this piped stitching detail that goes around the backside that I think just kind of reinforces the overall smooth fit around the butt.

Jinnie Lee

InStill High-Rise Tight 25″, $128 (Black)

“I don’t think I know any activewear brand that uses numerical sizing for its leggings — but lululemon does, so the whole notion of “ordering the right size” kind of threw me off. I ended up ordering my normal pant size and the leggings fit totally fine, but not in any specific or life-changing way where I must only order my exact legging size from now on. I do appreciate the attention to detail, however — I can only imagine the sizing must attribute to lululemon’s cult-like status in the activewear space.

Since these leggings are meant for yoga, I did a yoga-pilates session in them right away. I will say that the compression is nice and snug and there’s this piped stitching detail that goes around the backside that I think just kind of reinforces the overall smooth fit around the butt. The material is thicker than what I’m normally used to wearing, but the wicking material didn’t leave me overly sweaty in the crotch area. A few days later, I wore the leggings again, this time to a barre class and they held up solidly for a session that included a lot of squats, bends, chairs, bridge poses, and leg lifts. The inseam is also great for my 5’3″ frame but I did have to kind of adjust them a bit to evenly distribute the fabric on my legs.

My only complaint is that they pick up lint kind of quickly — but then again my leggings are black so any lint is sure to be more noticeable.” – Jinnie Lee, Freelance Fashion Market Writer

I like yoga pants that feel soft but are still compressive without pinching and I imagine, in the right size, these pants would be just that.

Marshall Bright

InStill High-Rise Tight 25″, $128 (Graphite Grey)

“I’ve never bought clothes from lululemon, but friends have told me they tend to run small. So, I did what I’m always too lazy to do and actually measured myself before selecting a size. My hip and waist measurements are perfectly lined up with a size 20 per lululemon’s size chart. This is on the larger side for me (I tend to be a size 14/16) but since my measurements lined up so well I expected these to be a perfect fit. Well… they weren’t.

They were at least one size too big, maybe two. Instead of being compressive, they were a tad baggy and bunched in spots. In other words, they were simply the wrong size. I took a nap in them and felt fine, but after a yoga class and some cleaning around the house, I noticed they were actually falling down. Which was too bad because, otherwise, there was a lot that I liked about them.

I like yoga pants that feel soft but are still compressive without pinching and I imagine, in the right size, these pants would be just that. Most of my leggings are Girlfriend Collective, and I actually preferred lululemon’s much softer hand feel. I also liked the length and stitching (I’m almost 5’4″), though I like GC’s larger back pocket better since it actually will hold an iPhone.

I’m going to pass these on to a friend, but will definitely be checking out more lululemon leggings in the future — I might just be trying them on in-store next time.” – Marshall Bright, Affiliate Top Editor

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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