It's the last Friday in April, and in the fashion world, there is ample anticipation for the Met Gala to return to its usual set date: the first Monday in May. This year, attendees are expected to turn in their finest Gilded Age-inspired outfits (the night's theme is Gilded Glamour!) to mark the opening of the Met Museum's exhibition In America: An Anthology Of Fashion, the second part of last year's showing.
But even as we look into a more normal future, we can still take inspiration from some of the Met Gala’s biggest fashion moments. To do so, we’re taking a trip down memory lane, re-visiting some of our all-time favorite Met Gala looks, from Kate Moss’s Marc Jacobs golden mini dress circa 2009 to Cardi B’s regal Moschino gown from 2018. Don’t worry, SJP and Alexander McQueen in matching tartan, Naomi Campbell in glittering Versace, and Kim Kardashian in Thierry Mugler’s first original design in 20 years also made the cut.
So prepare to be amazed by the ethereal looks that have garnered attention every year since the first Costume Institute Benefit in 1948. Click on for our list of the best Met Gala looks of all time.
Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez in Brother Vellies, 2021
Talk about a statement dress.
Photo: Mike Coppola/Getty Images.
Billie Eillish in Oscar De La Renta, 2021
Casually channeling Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly for the night. Photo: John Shearer/WireImage.
RosalÃa in Rick Owens, 2021
Sometimes all you need is a train and thigh-high platform boots. Photo : John .hearer/WireImage.
Lady Gaga in Brandon Maxwell, 2019
That time Lady Gaga reinvented performance with four outfit changes at the Met Gala. Talk about camp! Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue.
Carmen Kass in Gucci, 2003
The open neck is the new open back, as proven by Carmen Kass's iconic red satin Gucci gown from the 2003 Met Gala.Photo: Gucci/Getty Images.
Hailey Bieber in Alexander Wang, 2019
Only Hailey Bieber could make a crystal thong seem like a casual red pink carpet accessory. Photo: Karwai Tang/Getty Images.
Rihanna in John Galliano, 2018
Can we all take a second to memorialize Rihanna's crystal-covered John Galliano papal look for the Heavenly Bodies themed Met Gala in 2018? Photo: Kevin Tachman/Getty Images.
Naomi Campbell in Versace, 1995
Naomi Campbell always looks fantastic. Full stop. But this dazzling Versace number from the 1995 Met Gala truly is a step above the rest. Photo: Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images.
Ashley Olsen in Dior, 2013
Ashley Olsen was the picture of sunshine at the 2013 Met Gala, where she wore a tangerine shapeless frock courtesy of Dior. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images.
Cardi B in Thom Browne, 2019
Quilted coats who? We're opting for quilted gowns only (with feathered details and extra-long trains, of course) from now on. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images.
Ariana Grande in Vera Wang, 2018
Ariana Grande consistently goes above and beyond in the costume department. But her Sistine Chapel Vera Wang gown for 2018's Catholic-themed Met Gala was assuredly her most extra look yet. Photo: Jackson Lee/Getty Images.
Kim Kardashian West in Mugler, 2019
Straight out of the ocean and onto the pink carpet in custom Mugler is the only way we want Kim Kardashian West to show up anywhere for the foreseeable future. Photo: John Shearer/Getty Images.
Zoë Kravitz in Oscar de la Renta, 2017
Who else freaked out when Zoë Kravitz wore millennial pink to the Met Gala during peak millennial pink popularity? Photo: J. Kempin/Getty Images.
Frances McDormand in Valentino, 2018
Does it get more fabulous than Oscar-winning actress Frances McDormand in avant-garde Valentino at the Met Gala? We're thinking not. Photo: George Pimentel/Getty Images.
Lupita Nyong'o in Calvin Klein, 2016
We'd be cheesin' it too if we looked as extraordinary as Lupita Nyong'o in this sparkling green Calvin Klein number. Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.
Jared Leto in Gucci, 2019
It doesn't get much more camp than carrying a 3D clone of your own head on the red carpet. Nice work, Alessandro Michele. We see you, and we appreciate you. Photo: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images.
Zendaya in Jean Paul Gaultier, 2018
Who else is getting serious Dune vibes from the armored Gaultier gown Zendaya wore in 2018? Photo: Taylor Hill/Getty Images.
Kate Moss in Marc Jacobs, 2009
Kate Moss in this Marc Jacobs gold turban and backless mini combo is golden hour in human form. Photo: BILLY FARRELL/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images.
Saoirse Ronan in Gucci, 2019
Watch out Emilia Clarke, there's a new Mother of Dragons in town, and it's Saoirse Ronan in Gucci. Photo: Taylor Hill/FilmMagic.
Lana Del Rey in Gucci, 2018
Lana Del Rey's Gucci ensemble nailed the 2018 Met Gala's Catholic theme. Photo: Dia Dipasupil/WireImage.
Jennifer Lopez in Valentino, 2017
The Versace jungle dress might be J.Lo's most iconic, but we'd argue that this baby blue Valentino gown deserves the #1 spot. Photo: J. Kempin/Getty Images.
Victoria Beckham in Victoria Beckham, 2014
Victoria Beckham in Victoria Beckham. That's it. That's the caption.Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.
Billy Porter in The Blonds, 2019
Not pictured: Billy Porter being carried onto the Met Gala pink carpet Cleopatra style by six very handsome men also wearing gold ensembles by The Blonds.Photo: John Shearer/Getty Images.
Cara Delevingne in Chanel, 2017
The only thing better than Cara Delevingne introducing her sleek new bald 'do at the Manus x Machina Met Gala was the metallic Chanel pantsuit she wore.Photo: Karwai Tang/WireImage.
Solange Knowles in Iris van Herpen and Brother Vellies, 2018
There's a reason Solange Knowles goes by Saint Records, and it's this slick black Iris van Herpen gown, gold angelic crown, and Brother Vellies thigh-high boots. That's not really the reason, but a girl can dream. Photo: Rabbani and Solimene Photography/Getty Images.
Bella Hadid in Alexander Wang, 2017
Bella Hadid in barely there Alexander Wang needs no introduction. Photo: Kevin Mazur/WireImage.
Princess Diana in Dior, 1996
Possibly the most iconic of all the Met Gala looks is Princess Diana in a very daring blue Dior slip dress with a matching sapphire necklace. Photo: Patrick McMullan/Getty Images.
Cardi B in Thom Browne, 2018
What's better than Cardi B's regal Moschino look? The beaded gown was a major showstopper. Photo: Frazer Harrison/FilmMagic.
Sienna Miller in Burberry, 2006
Talk about glowing. Sienna Miller is a genuine ray of light in this Burberry micro mini. Photo: BILLY FARRELL/Patrick McMullan/Getty Images.
Old Hollywood glamour doesn't get much better than this. Photo: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic.
Erykah Badu in Givenchy, 2014
Erykah Badu deserves the first-place prize for her Givenchy hat game at the 2014 Met Gala. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images.
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen in vintage John Galliano for Dior, 2015
Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen in head-to-toe black isn't exactly groundbreaking, but that doesn't mean we don't also love it. Photo: Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images.
Chloe Sevigny in J.W. Anderson, 2015
Every single inch of this J.W. Anderson original on Chloë Sevigny is absolute perfection. Photo: Karwai Tang/WireImage.
Rihanna in Guo Pei, 2015
Does Rihanna ever not look perfect on the Met Gala steps? Doubtful. Photo: Taylor Hill/FilmMagic.
Anne Hathaway in Ralph Lauren, 2015
Anne Hathaway took a cue from Little Red Riding Hood with this sexy and sophisticated gold hooded gown courtesy of Ralph Lauren. Photo: George Pimentel/WireImage.
Miley Cyrus in Marc Jacobs, 2013
Miley Cyrus was the definitive punk princess in sheer, netted Marc Jacobs at the 2013 Met Gala.Photo: Rabbani and Solimene Photography/WireImage.
Gwyneth Paltrow in Stella McCartney, 2011
Between the extra-high slit and the extra-low back, this Stella McCartney number on Gwyneth Paltrow is the epitome of sex appeal.Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images.
Madonna in Stella McCartney, 2011
This Stella McCartney cap-sleeved gown was, without a doubt, Madonna's "Lucky Star." Photo: Larry Busacca/Getty Images.
Christina Ricci in Givenchy, 2008
Catch us re-creating Christina Ricci's pink and red Givenchy look on Valentine's Day 2021. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage.
Alexander McQueen and Sarah Jessica Parker in Alexander McQueen, 2006
Amber Valletta in Maggie Norris Couture and John Galliano, 2004
The hair! The baubles! The corset! Every detail of Amber Valletta's Maggie Norris and John Galliano ensemble from the 2004 Met Gala was a win if you ask us. Photo: Evan Agostini/Getty Images.
Marie-Chantal Mille in Valentino, 2001
Have you ever seen anything chicer than Princess Marie-Chantal Mille of Greece wearing Valentino with Valentino? Photo: Evan Agostini/Getty Images.
Yara Shahidi in Dior, 2021
Yara Shahidi took a cue from Josephine Baker and excelled. Photo: Jeff Kravitz/FilmMagic.
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In 2003, Serena Williams signed a multimillion, multi-year contract with Nike at age 21. Almost 20 years later, the sportswear company is celebrating Williams’ rich legacy by naming a new building in the Nike World Headquarters in Beaverton, Oregon after her — an honor only shared by 10 other athletes in all of sports history, including Michael Jordan and LeBron James. Williams’ new structure stands as Nike’s largest building at an impressive million square feet, boasting a tennis court, a high-rise tower, and a special auditorium named after the tennis star’s daughter, Olympia. Williams’ name is displayed in bold capital letters for every guest to see, an unforgettable reminder of her greatness.
When I arrived on the campus, I was instantly transported back to third grade, as the little girl who had just learned about the up-and-coming Williams sisters. As my tour group and I headed towards the lobby of the building, we passed by three abstract digital-motion pillars, and I later learned they were symbols representing the dynamic and versatile energy that has fueled Williams throughout her career. At the front desk were glass cases that housed memorabilia from her past tournaments. Each glass pillar represented Serena’s 23 Grand Slam wins grouped together by tournament: Wimbledon, US Open, Australian Open, and French Open. But the pieces weren’t just trophies and medals; Williams’ eclectic on-court fashions over the years were also highlighted because she has always been as passionate about asserting her unique identity through her style as she has been about showing off her skills. Nike made sure to include the bedazzled denim jacket she sported to her first-ever meeting with the company to show them her love for style and fashion as well as the iconic cheetah print outfit she wore in 2014 for the US Open.
Throughout the tour, we were able to check out the many other dope amenities that really bring the space together, such as the building’s three wings (Phenom, Warrior, and Muse) that are connected by the main tower. There, the Wimbledon restaurant sits at the top of the tower, and guests are treated to a stunning view of the observation deck overlooking Nike’s sprawling campus. Notably, the building also includes consumer labs that will bring the products to life in a storefront-like showroom; with a thousand designers working in consumer insights, apparel, footwear, and product merchandising, Nike employees have an exciting opportunity to work closely together in a new space dedicated to collaboration. Additionally, the tour group had the pleasure of visiting the Olympia Theater — wall to wall purple in Williams’ favorite color — to engage in a fireside chat with Nike’s Chief Design Officer, John Hoke.
The importance of the Serena Williams Building is that it continues to show other Black women that we are capable of being great and that we should stop at nothing when setting personal expectations for ourselves.
The amount of input Williams had in the design of the building itself is a reflection of how hands-on she is with all of her work, specifically with her Nike collections. Jonathan Johnsongriffin, a former Nike intern turned VP, Global Creative Director of William’s Design Crew, praised the tennis icon for her attention to detail and passion for her work with the company.
“I’ve worked with a lot of signature athletes during my time here at Nike but I’ve never been a part of a process like this where an athlete is so engaged and involved,” Johnsongriffin told us. “Serena helps pick the apprentices, which city we look for apprentices, all the way down to the design styles. The current cohort and I are actually meeting with her to show her the latest design we have for next year’s collection — that is an incredible amount of access that sometimes you don’t always get with an athlete.”
Although experiencing her Nike building in person was wholly inspirational for me, a Black girl who grew up watching her dominate the tennis world on television, I do wish that I’d gotten the opportunity to speak with more of the Black women designers who work alongside Williams at Nike. To hear a Black woman’s perspective on collaborating with the greatest athlete of all time — who just so happens to be a Black woman — would have underscored the cultural impact of Williams being honored this way. One such designer, Emiko McCoy, was part of the first cohort of Serena’s design crew in New York City. During one stop on the tour, McCoy shared her excitement over working closely with Williams and described the energy of the tennis star’s collections as “exuding joy.” I’m sure that there are many more stories about Black women being motivated by Williams’ work ethic, and Nike would only benefit from sharing those stories with the world.
The importance of the Serena Williams Building is that it continues to show other Black women that we are capable of being great and that we should stop at nothing when setting personal expectations for ourselves. It represents the many facets of her life and embodies the layers of who she is as a person. Ringing true to the statement that Black women are not a monolith, our experiences and interests shape how we grow. Williams is not just a tennis player, she is an entrepreneur and fashion enthusiast and this building is an added representation of her continued legacy.
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Welcome to Refinery29’s So, How Is It Really? where we take a look at all of the topics that have the internet talking. In studying them up close, we answer the question of what it’s really like to try out a trend like a harness, a viral product, or an unexpected TikTok hack.
Ever since designer Sally LaPointe unveiled her brand’s spring 2022 collection at a rave-like presentation full of neon lights and blazers paired with harnesses, I haven’t stopped thinking about the latter accessory. The styling secured my obsession: Monochrome, work-appropriate suits juxtaposed with harnesses better suited for a night of pre-pandemic partying.
As the trend caught on, with designers like Dion Lee and Dior showing their own takes for the spring and fall 2022 seasons, the urge to get one of my own grew. After two years of loungewear and nap dresses, it was time for some discipline. A leather harness would surely do the trick.
It seems I’m not the only one interested in adding some bits of “fetishcore” into my wardrobe. Searches for harnesses were up by 132% month-over-month in 2022, according to Lyst, while other BDSM-inspired accessories, like leather chokers and latex products, were also on the rise. On TikTok, the trend is spreading: #leatherharness has garnered over 10 million views, thanks to creators showing off their styling tricks.
While I gathered some inspiration from creators on TikTok for my own experiment, I figured the best way to approach this was to wear the piece to a set of situations I wouldn’t associate with a harness-clad outfit — a Friday dinner and a family barbecue — and incorporate the accessory into outfits that feel like a second skin to me. So I set out to try a harness by Zana Bayne, a designer known for her leather accessories made by hand, and another from LaPointe’s spring 2022 collection.
First, I paired a LaPointe vinyl harness with a white button-down shirt, beige shorts, and black heels to a Friday dinner with friends. Although one might expect risky outfits to be worn with one’s closest companions, as a conservative dresser, that’s not something I normally do. So when I walked out to the kitchen to see if my roommate was ready to head out, I was pleasantly surprised by her reaction: “Wow! Fabulous.” So far so good. It got even better when we got to our dinner spot — Chacha Mama on the Upper West Side, thank me later! — and one of the waiters stopped to compliment my outfit on the way out.
Throughout the dinner, I noticed how comfortable I felt wearing a piece that was basically made to constrain my movements. I stood taller, more confident, asserting my presence with poise. Were there families with kids giving my outfit the side eye? Yes. But this is New York — anything goes.
For my next experiment, I walked a riskier road. While on my recent travels to visit family in Puerto Rico, I packed the harness in my carryon, afraid I’d be stopped by TSA officials. I could only imagine what they’d think I do for a living if I told them I was carrying this “for work.” Thankfully, I didn’t have to suffer through that. But I still chose to wear it around family members during a Good Friday barbecue. Oh, lord.
I decided to pair the harness with a black midi dress and flatforms. The otherwise conservative outfit was made subversive by the harness, a juxtaposition I carefully chose to trick my relatives into liking this outfit. It worked. As soon as I walked into my mother’s room, she said, “¿Y eso? It looks good.” Later, at the family function, no one batted an eye when I showed up wearing the accessory, which I took as a sign that they weren’t surprised that, as a devout agnostic, I chose a holy day to sport a dungeon-ready harness.
During the barbecue, I kept feeling confident, just like during the dinner. My back was straighter (I bet my chiropractor will like this experiment), and I felt like my outfit said everything there was to know about me to the people who think they know me best.
I packed the harness back in my carryon, while doing some mental math on how many could I afford to get for myself. I shall obey the trend’s calling soon enough. If you feel like it too, here are some options to try now.
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Earlier this year, during London Fashion Week, RuPaul’s Drag Race winner Violet Chachki walked the Richard Quinn runway dressed in a latex bodysuit and black pumps with a leash in her hand, while a man tied to the leather accessory walked by her side. It was just one of the few instances in 2022 in which fetishes have appeared on the fashion scene, making style sexier, kinkier, and freer.
Trend forecasters at the shopping platform Lyst have deemed this trend “fetishcore,” highlighting that searches for related items on the site have jumped amid an increasing acceptance of BDSM-adjacent styles on the runways and red carpets. Searches for “harness” have increased 132% month-over-month on the platform, while queries for “leather choker” have increased by 100% since the beginning of the year. The platform has also seen a 26% rise in page views for “latex.”
Since the beginning of 2022, aesthetics associated with BDSM — a set of erotic practices that include bondage, domination, sadism, and masochism — have entered the mainstream fashion landscape. Actress Julia Fox has channeled her former profession as a dominatrix through her viral looks, sporting head-to-toe leather, including pants and strapless tops, and more recently, a necklace shaped like a hand choking her at the Vanity Fair Oscars after party. Dua Lipa also tapped into fetishcore by wearing a black-and-gold Versace dress from the house’s fall 1992 collection, aptly titled “Miss S&M,” to the 2022 Grammy Awards.
On the runways, designers have also embraced the trend. Take, for example, Vaquera’s fall 2022 collection, which included latex bodysuits underneath T-shirts and dresses, or Richard Quinn’s multiple latex pieces in the fall 2022 lineup, which varied from bodysuits to opera gloves. Meanwhile, Coach showed choker necklaces with keys attached to them, as well as a wide array of leather jackets, for fall 2022, and LaPointe took BDSM into workwear with harnesses worn over monochrome suits for spring 2022.
VAQUERA FW22 27 FEVRIER 2022 PARIS FASHIONWEEK
Like many trends in fashion, this one is also cyclical. In the 1980s, a precursor of fetishcore emerged in pop culture with the help of artists like Madonna and Depeche Mode’s Martin Gore, who used leather, lingerie, and harnesses to exhibit the subculture’s impact on the world stage. Later, in the 2010s, Lady Gaga also ushered in a new era of kinkcore through latex ensembles, harnesses, and sky-high black boots, while Rihanna unleashed her kinky persona wearing shibari-style ties and latex for the music video for her hit single “S&M.” Kim Kardashian more recently made the tight-fitting material a must-have with various outfits that resembled American Horror Story’s Rubber Man.
Yet, the trend is not without controversy. Sex workers have often pointed out that designers borrow the styles they’ve championed without paying homage to these communities and highlighting their struggles. “Being inspired by sex work is not surprising or wrong,” wrote Gigi Fong in Hypebae. “But until sex workers can exist without shame, lack of safety and fear of imprisonment, the appropriation of their lifestyle and aesthetic will continue to be offensive.” Still, Fong celebrated some instances where appreciation is still welcomed, including Chachki’s walk during the Richard Quinn fashion show and Gianni Versace’s “Miss S&M” collection.
Now, the evidence suggests that, much like in the 1980s, when excess and liberation led the aesthetics of the era, both designers and mainstream culture are thirsty for some vision of freedom. After two years in an ongoing pandemic and amid a nationwide repression of LGBTQ+ and reproductive rights, fashion is inviting people to celebrate their sexuality, from workwear-ready leather harnesses to party-all-night leather dresses and dungeon-appropriate latex bodysuits.
Will you obey fashion’s command? If so, here are some essentials to help you channel the fetishcore trend.
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Choker Necklace
Whether leather or metal, a chocker necklace is key to exude the BDSM energy — safely, of course.
Leather Harness
From minimal to full-on bondage, leather harnesses are an easy way to kink up any outfit, even workwear.
Latex Dress
While latex may be look hard to put on, it looks too good to pass. Go for an easy mini dress in a basic color — in this case, black or red — to channel your inner dominatrix.
Head-to-Toe Leather
If latex isn’t a viable option (I mean, allergies happen), go for a head-to-toe leather outfit. Yes, even opera gloves can be made BDSM-ready.
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