Wednesday, March 11, 2020

अक्षय से लेकर सलमान तक, ऐक्टर्स जिन्होंने किया साबित गुलाबी रंग सिर्फ लड़कियों के लिए नहीं होता March 11, 2020 at 07:57PM

आपने कई लोगों को कहते हुए सुना होगा कि Pink या गुलाबी कलर लड़कियों के लिए होता है और Blue या नीला रंग लड़कों के लिए। इस सोच के पीछे का कारण क्या है इसके बारे में सोचे बगैर बस लोग इसे फॉलो करते रहते हैं। हालांकि, लोगों की सोच को प्रभावित करने की क्षमता रखने वाले बीटाउन ऐक्टर्स रंग को लेकर चली आ रही पुरानी धारणा को भी चैलेंज करते दिखे हैं। यही वजह है कि उन्हें कई बार पिंक कलर के कपड़ों को बड़े ही चिल अंदाज में कैरी करते देखा गया है।
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How Lauren & Cameron’s Stylist Transformed Them Into The New It-Couple

NEW YORK, NY – MARCH 04: (EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE) Lauren Speed and Cameron Hamilton visit People TV on March 4, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Jason Mendez/Getty Images)

Last summer, Refinery29 Research and Insights manager Candace Hokett took a leap, leaving her full-time job in order to pursue a creative passion she’d never been able to kick: fashion. Less than a year later, she’s the stylist behind the most beloved reality TV couple of 2020: Love Is Blind’s Lauren Speed and Cameron Hamilton. 

“What a full-circle moment,” she remarked when I called her up a recent afternoon. The lovebirds are fresh off a press tour for the popular Netflix show that had contestants meet, fall in love, and get engaged without ever seeing each other. Lauren and Cameron are one of the show’s success stories, making it down the aisle and now, a year and a half later, still going strong. Their enduring love is the main inspiration behind their subtly-coordinated looks, the power of which rivals Meghan Markle and Prince Harry’s latest press appearances — so much so that they even went viral, catapulting Lauren and Cameron to It-couple status. 

“THIS is how you do a press tour,” one person wrote on Twitter, accompanied by a series of photos of Lauren and Cameron in their outfits, to the tune of over 16 thousand retweets.

Hokett has had experience all over the biz: a certification in tailoring from Fashion Institute of Technology, work as a buyer for major brands like Michael Kors and Calvin Klein, and a roster of high-profile clients that include musicians like Teyana Taylor. But it’s Lauren and Cameron who finally put Hokett in the much-deserved spotlight. The pair has gone from reality TV icons to relationship  icons to fashion icons. Their love story touches on race,feminism, and independence —  all things Hokett took into consideration when pulling their looks. Oh, that and the fact that Lauren used to be…her boss. 

Refinery29: How did you get introduced to Lauren and Cameron?

Hokett: “I’m friends with Lauren. I actually knew her years ago. She was my boss at American Apparel when I was the only Howard girl for almost four years.”

Did she ask you to style them or was it just a happy coincidence?

“We just so happened to hit each other up a month or so before the show came on. She called me and said, ‘Hey, I’m doing a press tour and I’m really nervous, I don’t think I have a lot to wear.’ It was a Saturday afternoon. By Monday…I was getting so many replies back from different showrooms that told me, ‘Yeah, come in right now.’ I was able to literally style her and Cam for the week at that point.”

So how did you approach picking clothes for them? 

“Cameron’s a grounded guy that’s got so much hidden swag that people would never know. It’s just been really fun getting him out of his comfort zone, trying different colors for him, and coordinating him along with Lauren. I know her, so I would never put her in something crazy, and I know him now. We’re on an ‘I love you’ basis. That makes the relationship so much more trustworthy when it comes to taking potential risks in fashion and telling your story as a cohesive unit. They are together; they are united. I wanted people to see that and I don’t think that would have ever happened with anyone other than someone who loved them from day one.”

People are especially loving that green suit Cameron wore. 

“He looks great in green. He told me that literally the night before. I work really well under pressure, so it’s kind of rewarding to see that you can turn things around sometimes. 

I value so much of how he is a space for her to expand and he does not put a lid on her beautiful energy. He’s there to hold space for her but to also allow her to really be her best self. And I think she does the same for him and is always in his corner and holding his hand right by his side.”

Were there any hidden messages or symbols in their outfits?

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – MARCH 06: (EXCLUSIVE COVERAGE) Cameron Hamilton and Lauren Speed from Love Is Blind visit ‘Sway in the Morning’ with Sway Calloway on Eminem’s Shade 45 at SiriusXM Studios on March 06, 2020 in New York City. (Photo by Cindy Ord/Getty Images)

“The t-shirt that says ‘Black women are a gift from God.’ I just felt like for women’s month, being this strong black woman out in the public eyes for the first time in your life with your new husband, you need to know that this is a God dream and I want everyone to see that this is your dream. It doesn’t have to be a racial stance if you don’t want [it to be]. You’re here to speak on your love and at the same time be able to amplify the fact that your gift is within your uniqueness without having to exclude anyone else [while] still shining a light on black women.”

What did you learn about them through styling them, personality or relationship-wise, that we may have not seen on screen?

“They are just so unbelievably affectionate. There were definitely times where I had to be like, ‘Okay, lovebirds. Stop hugging and kissing in these outfits, y’all ain’t even go anywhere yet.’ 

Some people DMed me and had the curiosity to say, ‘Are they really in love?’ And it’s just so funny how jaded we as humans have become. For the first time in my life, I’m dreaming about my fairy tale situation that could come any which way. And it’s all because my friend took a leap of faith and is so happy, and I can see it with my own two eyes.”

As a stylist working in such a visual medium, do you think love really can be blind? 

“I can proudly say that someone who I loved for over 10 years, I met them without ever seeing them. A friend introduced us over the phone as teenage kids. Not until I got a MySpace with pictures did I ever see that person, and by that time I was smitten. And it took us years to go our separate paths and give it a rest, cause you’re young and other things to do, different colleges, different careers, different countries. But I can say that love is definitely blind. I can say that that person has changed my life and I never regret meeting them the way that I have.”

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

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You Have To Apply To Buy Virgil Abloh’s Latest Collab

If you, like me, lived through the stereotypical high school experience, you’ve likely already owned a far-less-covetable version of Virgil Abloh’s latest line.

I grew up in the suburbs of Chicago in the 2000s, and as you can imagine, there wasn’t a whole lot of excitement going on. One of the few activities that my classmates and I got up to that did provide worthwhile entertainment was stringing jewelry out of paperclips, the only items residing in the dredges of our ink-stained canvas pencil bags during study hall — or detention. Strewn around our necks, ankles, and wrists, the flimsy metal baubles were anything but luxurious. That, however, is hardly the case for Abloh’s version.

Instead, the designer beloved by hype beasts everywhere is taking my once-favorite boredom-squashing activity, adding diamonds and 18k gold, and slapping a very exclusive order form to it. 

Today, Virgil Abloh and long-time collaborator and friend Jacob Arabo announced the launch of “Office Supplies,” a four-piece made-to-order collection of earrings, bracelets, money clips, and necklaces made to resemble your old-school paperclip accessories. And shoppers who want to purchase a piece must first put in an application (yes, you read that correctly), which will be reviewed personally by both Arabo and Abloh. Those lucky enough to get the golden stamp of approval will then be granted the right to fill out an order form. 

From there, potential customers will choose from the four jewelry options and decide whether they want their paperclips in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold. Regardless of the material chosen, each piece will each be engraved with “Office Supplies,” to both “highlight the inspiration behind the collection,” as stated in the press release, and differentiate your Abloh original from the homemade alternatives that will no doubt begin popping up on the stock floors of indie retailers across town. 

If I’m being completely honest, the concept is genius. After all, people my age love to spend cash when nostalgia is involved. And the order forms, while maybe a tad more ostentatious than the situation calls for, do create a sense of urgency. Do you have what it takes to wear luxury paperclips?! Only time will tell. 

That’s not to say, though, that the “Office Supplies” collection isn’t high brow — it is. “In my watchmaking and jewelry work, I have been operating at the upper ends of the spectrum, reworking high complications in watches and changing the way jewelry was perceived,” Arabo explains in the release. If you’re otherwise unfamiliar with Jacob Arabo’s work, his brand Jacob & Co. is known for selling timepieces that cost upwards of $250k and are worn by the likes of Christiano Ronaldo and Jay-Z. Floyd Mayweather actually purchased one for $18 million in 2018. So yeah, quality isn’t an issue. 

If waiting four to eight weeks for the chance at a diamond-encrusted paper clip is your thing, email officesupplies@canary—yellow.com to request an order form. As for me, I think I’d prefer to stick with my tried-and-true method of building them myself.

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Coronavirus Will Have Long-Term Effects On The Fashion Industry

Despite already seeing significant effects, the fashion industry has yet to feel the brunt of the repercussions — financial and otherwise — caused by the global outbreak of COVID-19. 

The arrival of coronavirus in Italy on February 21 coincided directly with Milan Fashion Week, which ran from the 18th to the 24th, causing some attendees to cancel their trips and head home early, while some designers — including, notably, Giorgio Armani — cancelled their runway shows. Panic followed the showgoers to Paris, where more presentations were cancelled, more impromptu return flights were booked, and more face masks were worn — including one that was custom-designed for the fall ‘20 Chanel show. It’s no wonder that returning American fashion editors were advised to self-quarantine for two weeks — even if not all of them listened.

Now, New York City — aka the fashion epicenter of America — is in a declared state of emergency. This means that local fashion houses (as well as fashion media companies, PR agencies, and more) have declared a work-from-home policy for their employees. Beyond that, shoots are being postponed; press previews, dinners, and work-related travel canceled. The Copenhagen Fashion Summit will be pushed until October, while H&M’s Global Change Award Gala was called off altogether. 

Inconvenient and financially damaging as all those things are, though, the real economic impact of coronavirus has yet to be seen — but it is coming. Luxury buying and selling is a predominately in-person exchange, so when tons of buyers canceled their plans to travel during Paris market week — the week when designers and buyers meet at tradeshows and showrooms to buy and sell their upcoming collections — brands had to get creative, and fast. Many ended up going digital in their selling approach, either sending PDFs or using online ordering platforms like Joor. But, while some labels may have had success using online-selling portals, the outbreak will likely leave a hefty dent on this year’s sales.

“Buyers need to be able to see the quality, fit, and fabrications of the garments in real life, by trying them on or seeing them on a model,” says the designer behind the brand abacaxi Sheena Shood. Shood was in Paris to show her latest collection during market week. “The trade shows were emptier than usual,” she says. While her brand and most of the other designers showing were able to keep their scheduled appointments, Shood says that it was difficult to make new contacts. “Typically designers show at Paris market to meet new contacts every season, but many of the international buyers canceled their trips. It also appears as though even some buyers who did attend New York and Paris markets aren’t placing orders this season because of how badly coronavirus has already affected the traffic at their stores (particularly in Asia).” According to Kaelyn Davis, the VP of luxury hat brand Eric Javits, overall traffic at Premiere Classe, a popular trade show for accessories in Paris, was down by over 75 percent. “We especially saw a decline in the brand’s Asian clientele as a result of coronavirus.”

The stock market’s current nose-dive isn’t helping things either. According to WWD, the week of February 28, 2020 was one of the worst the American market has experienced since the 2008 recession. Globally, the London and Paris markets both saw significant declines, as well. Publicly traded fashion brands like Burberry, Hermès, Revolve, and Lululemon Athletica all saw dramatic dips in stock price, the most substantial being Revolve’s and Lululemon’s, which both dropped by 4.4 percent. 

A pedestrian wears a face mask as visitors gather outside a pop-up building for the Christian Dior SE catwalk show during Paris Fashion Week at Tuileries Garden in Paris, France, on Tuesday, Feb. 25, 2020. Fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris — where the luxury industry shows off its fall womenswear collections at runway spectacles and showrooms for buyers — have been taking a hit from precautions to stem the spread of the coronavirus. Photographer: Laura Stevens/Bloomberg via Getty Images

The fashion landscape isn’t only made up of large, publicly owned companies and brands, though. And while they will undoubtedly feel the weight of the COVID-19 outbreak, between their high margins and overwhelming customer loyalty, it’s likely that they will find themselves back in the green once the virus has run its course. According to The Wall Street Journal, larger companies are better equipped to deal with the consequences of coronavirus than smaller ones, many of which don’t necessarily share the same optimistic future. 

“This season, buyers were really careful about appointments — we had more than half of our Paris appointments cancel — something we could have never prepared for,” says Sabrina Reales of Petricor, the sales showroom which represents indie brands like KkCo, Alfeya Valrina, SVNR, Dauphinette, and more. “Without that in-person experience, we’re reliant on the digital space to support sales. While that is becoming increasingly more prevalent, [those platforms are] still limiting.” 

Direct-to-consumer sales are also starting to suffer. “Everything was fine until last Friday, but then we saw a big downturn,” Pauline Montupet says of her San Francisco multi-brand concept store Le Point. “The weekend is when we get most of our foot traffic and it was really, really slow. Everyone’s being told to stay inside and avoid large groups, which despite being a small store, is hindering people from coming into Le Point, too.” Small businesses also have internal logistics to think about, like their employees, incoming orders, and bills. “We already have a really lean staff and I don’t want to let anyone go, so I’m just trying to figure out how long we can manage with minimal impact if this is going to continue for a long time,” Montupet explains. 

For Hong Kong-based designers Phyllis Chan and Suzzie Chung, COVID-19 is hitting hard. Chan and Chung’s brand Yan Yan is made entirely in China, the original epicenter for coronavirus. “We try to manufacture based on demand, so the lockdown has delayed our restock by a few weeks, thus affecting our normal ability to supply to demand,” Chung says. “But the health and safety of our factory workers is really important to us, so we don’t want to rush the process of everyone getting back to work.” The duo worries that because of where their products are manufactured and the unfamiliar nature of coronavirus, that customers will be less likely to purchase from the brand. “As a health and safety requirement by the Chinese government, all our factory workers have their temperature monitored daily and wear masks all day at work. As an extra precaution, everyone in our Hong Kong office wears masks, we sanitize our shoes before entering the office, and take special care to wash our hands before handling product and packages,” Chan explains.

Fashion brands in Italy and China have begun closing their physical stores as governments in both countries advise residents to avoid public spaces and unnecessary contact with others. Italian Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte went as far as to forbid people from gathering in public, according to BBC. Capri Holdings, which owns Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo, has already closed 150 store locations in China, and in turn, predicted a $100 million decrease in revenue for next quarter. 

With Chinese workers being advised to stay home, many factories are struggling, which will be especially detrimental to the industry given how much fashion merchandise is produced there. According to Statista, China accounted for nearly 38 percent of the world’s textile exports in 2018. Now that workers are no longer physically allowed to go to work, though, production has effectively stopped, meaning that all of the brands, in China or otherwise, that rely on Chinese factories to produce their merchandise won’t be receiving their orders on time or at all. The CEO of Hildun Corporation and the chairman of Interluxe Gary A. Wassner told Time that companies selling “private labels,” or brands that are sold specifically to one store, are especially vulnerable. Time also consulted Margaret Bishop, an expert in apparel and textile supply chains, who is quoted saying that fast fashion companies are likely to take a major hit as well due to their quick turnarounds. 

In an interview with WWD, Confindustria Moda president Claudio Marenzi explained what he predicts the overall effects will be on the industry. “It’s going to be a tough year,” he said. “I think that the slowdown of this moment will also affect the first semester of 2021. The spring 2020 season will be the most dramatically hit by the crisis, we will see negative repercussions also on the fall 2020 season, and unfortunately, I think that the spring 2021 season will be also affected.” The virus could very well be quelled by then, but Marenzi presumes that since stores will be full of unsold goods from 2020, sales for 2021 will continue to be affected. “To sum up, this crisis will have a negative impact on our industry until June 2021.”

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