Monday, September 13, 2021

According To The Met Gala Red Carpet, This Is What’s Important About American Fashion

It’s the second Monday in September, which, were it any other year, would mean nothing but a typical return to the 9-to-5 grind. In 2021, however, it's fashion’s biggest night: the Met Gala. After 16 long months without bathroom photos and step selfies, not to mention the most extravagant of ensembles, the “Oscars of Fashion” are back for Anna Wintour’s in-list — or anyone who could afford an estimated $30,000 seat. 

Following the first in-person New York Fashion Week since February 2020, this year’s Met Gala is all about American fashion. Separated into two exhibitions — “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” and “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” — the Costume Institute at NYC's Metropolitan Museum of Art will attempt to tell America’s history through fashion and answer the question, “Who gets to be American?” But, what does that mean for the red carpet? Political and societal commentary obviously plays a heavy role in the sartorial choices of this year’s Met Gala attendees to varying degrees of effectiveness, as are looks borrowed from the archives of America’s most famous designers from the past, like Stephen Burrows, Halston, and Oscar de la Renta. We were most keen to see which contemporary designers would be represented and, in a way, canonized, like Christopher John Rogers, Pyer Moss, Prabal Gurung, and more. 

See all the most telling looks from the 2021 Met Gala red carpet, ahead.

Emma Chamberlain wearing Louis Vuitton


Emma Chamberlain is not messing around at her first Met Gala, where, of course, she chose to wear Louis Vuitton. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue.

Keke Palmer


Hosting the first Met Gala livestream at your first Met Gala requires one to dress the part — and Keke Palmer did just that (and more) in this high-neck-low-back gown. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue.

Ilana Glazer


Keke Palmer's livestream co-host, Broad City's Ilana Glazer, took a literal approach to American fashion for her Met Gala ensemble, wearing elevated camouflage (featuring feathers). Photo by Mike Coppola/Getty Images.

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Chromat Debuts Swimwear For Girls Who Don’t Tuck At Jacob Riis, NYC’s Queerest Beach

“I’ve been going to Jacob Riis Beach ever since my friend, Kenyon Farrow, a Black, queer activist, brought me there in 2005,” said activist and filmmaker Tourmaline of “The People’s Beach” of New York City, located on the other side of Jamaica Bay from Brooklyn, the preferred summertime destination for queer, trans, gender-nonconforming New Yorkers looking to get their tan on. For lots of Riis regulars, that spit of shore is something special: “I can remember a time that I felt so uncomfortable being at the beach and not wanting to be looked at,” Tourmaline said. “I can remember being in the water and not wanting to get out because I was afraid of getting dirty looks. I wasn’t feeling sexy and powerful, so I would be in the water way past a point where I should have been.” For Tourmaline, Riis was instrumental in changing her mindset. 

“I can remember a time that I felt so uncomfortable being at the beach and not wanting to be looked at. I can remember being in the water and not wanting to get out because I was afraid of getting dirty looks. I wasn’t feeling sexy and powerful, so I would be in the water way past a point where I should have been.”

Tourmaline, filmmaker and activist

On Sunday, the filmmaker-designer presented a collection of swimsuits and beachwear for girls who don’t tuck, trans femmes, non-binary people, and intersex bodies, a collaboration with beloved swimwear brand Chromat. Founded by designer Becca McCharen-Tran in 2008, Chromat is known for its dedication to inclusivity. The spring ‘22 collection only expanded on that commitment. 

“There isn’t a collection that aestheticizes the beauty of trans girls and trans femmes not tucking,” Tourmaline told Refinery29 ahead of the New York Fashion Week show. “And there isn’t a collection that does that with package support for trans men who want to pack.” In creating this collection with McCharen-Tran for Chromat, the duo is bringing fashion to a whole new place. 

To do so, Tourmaline and McCharen-Tran went through nearly every suit in the Chromat archives, going back over ten years and asking themselves a series of questions about each one: Does this work for you? Is this comfortable? If not, what would you change about it? Some suits, they discovered, were perfect as is, likely because McCharen-Tran has always tried to design beachwear that’s wearable by many. Others needed slight adjustments, like an additional inch of fabric in the crotch area for added support or room. “So there are new pieces and then there are essentially upcycled pieces,” said McCharen-Tran. 

”I see this collection as the beginning of something bigger.”

Becca McCharen-Tran, founder of Chromat

Highlights from the collection, which was meant to embrace what Chromat calls Collective Opulence Celebrating Kindred, or “COCK,” include thongs with extra string that goes around the hip, shorts that are low-cut on the leg opening, a tennis skort, a netted micro mini dress, a thong monokini, and a string bikini that’s available in both a narrow and a wide version, among countless other pieces. Every single item in the spring collection is available in sizes XS to 4X. “I see this collection as the beginning of something bigger,” said McCharen-Tran, whose mission is to improve Chromat and expand its reach with each new collection. 

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 12: Chromat x Tourmaline Spring/Summer 2022 runway show at New York Fashion Week: The Shows on September 12, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Shannon Finney/Getty Images for Chromat)

In the democratic spirit of Jacob Riis, the collection was presented in a pop-up format that allowed beachgoers — Chromat’s actual customers — to be the audience, as opposed to New York Fashion Week’s standard crowd. (According to McCharen-Tran, Riis is where she’s seen the most Chromat suits in the wild.) There was no announcement, or anything to notify people that a show was to take place on the beach’s boardwalk. And yet, after the first model, Joshua Allen, descended down the concrete runway, the crowd more than tripled, with cheers coming from every direction.

NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Chromat x Tourmaline Spring/Summer 2022 Runway Show at New York Fashion Week on September 12, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Shannon Finney/Getty Images for Chromat)
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – SEPTEMBER 12: A model walks the runway during the Chromat x Tourmaline Spring/Summer 2022 Runway Show at New York Fashion Week on September 12, 2021 in New York City. (Photo by Shannon Finney/Getty Images for Chromat)

Immediately following the finale, led by Tourmaline and McCharen-Tran, the models took to the beach, throwing themselves on a bed of pink towels before running toward the water. This time, decked out in Chromat’s spring ‘21 collection, there wasn’t a glint of fear about entering the water in a swimsuit, such was the case with Tourmaline years ago. “I think this is such a powerful way to know how important fashion is,” she said.

Freelance writer Jess Sims, who watched the show live from the boardwalk, agrees with Tourmaline. “We say the word ‘inclusivity’ and a lot of fashion doesn’t take it seriously,” she told Refinery29 after the show wrapped. “Chromat has been massively inclusive for over a decade now, and once again, has found a way to include another community in fashion — and fashion should be for everyone.”

McCharen-Tran is steadfast in her quest to turn that “should” into “is.” But even she acknowledges that her work isn’t perfect yet. Despite fit-testing every suit on Tourmaline, who provided detailed feedback for the designer, McCharen-Tran explained that she can’t say for certain that every single person will find a suit in the spring ‘22 collection that’s a perfect fit. Not yet anyway. “But that is always our goal,” she said.

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NEW YORK, NY – MAY 07: Rihanna at Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 7, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by Jackson Lee/Getty Images)

In the fall of 2019, Stella Wunder and Carol Tchiakpe, both 19, met in a Facebook group for NYU’s incoming freshmen class. Two drama majors with a mutual obsession with the Met Gala, the aspiring actors immediately hit it off. “The beginning of May, every year, we were both the type to be on our phones at our respective high schools, checking to see what everyone was wearing,” Tchiakpe told Refinery29. They became fast friends, and eventually decided to move in together mid-pandemic. When April came around, and Page Six and Vogue announced that the gala would be pushed back from its typical first-Monday-in-May date to September timed to the Costume Institute’s dual exhibitions — “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” and “In America: An Anthology of Fashion” — Wunder and Tchiakpe, intrigued by the theme, came up with a way to get in on the action.

“When we heard that the Met Gala was officially being scheduled, we were both like, Who’s going to be there? What are they doing to wear? Who’s going to flop?” said Tchiakpe. They began jotting down their thoughts on a notepad before quickly realizing just how many opinions they both had. So, they took to their apartment wall, color-coordinating Post-its in three different sections — American commentary, people who pay homage to an American designer, and those who missed the mark — with predictions for every supposed attendee’s outfit scribbled on them in permanent marker. Then, they documented it all on TikTok.

@lungtimes

welcome to the #metgala prediction wall featuring @shawtylonglegs . breakdown in part 2 🙂 #metgala2021 #IFeelWeightless #nyc #fashion

♬ Lofi – Domknowz

On May 5, Wunder posted a video to her TikTok account, @lungtimes, titled “Met Gala predictions part 1.” In it, the two roommates narrowed down their laundry list of questions to three big ones: who will be there, what they will wear, and how it will be received. Overnight, the video went viral. 

“I thought maybe a couple thousand people would watch and I’d be like, ‘Oh my god, that’s so cool,’” says Tchiakpe. “And then suddenly the next morning, Stella was like, ‘It’s fully hit like a million views.’ And I was like, ‘Come again?’”

Four months later, that number has more than doubled, with two million views and more than 565,000 likes. In the wake of their viral video, Tchiakpe and Wunder posted the remaining three parts of their initial prediction, made the wall into a shareable spreadsheet, and even considered a podcast. Wunder posts regular one-off predictions about particularly buzzy celebrities like Lady Gaga, Harry Styles, Billie Eilish, and Zendaya, the least successful of which still got more than 20,000 views. She’s often asked questions only Anna Wintour, the chairwoman of the Gala, could possibly answer — from info about the guest list to what said guests will be wearing — but her 51,500 followers don’t know that. To them, Wunder is an expert — one that’s using her personal opinions and knowledge of the gala, accumulated through years of fandom, to introduce millions to the “Oscars of Fashion.” 

@lungtimes

WHAT DO I WEAR AND ALSO SHOULD WE MAKE THIS A THING #nyc #metgalawall #metgala #fashion #nyfw #party #nycparty #metgala2021 #style #outfit

♬ Coffee Shop – Late Night Luke

Wunder and Tchiakpe are planning a watch party for the night, inviting their followers to join IRL as well as digitally, and creating a virtual Met Gala experience that anyone can take part in. (And no, they’re not charging $30,000 per seat for theirs.) 

But TikTok, a share-everything type of platform, couldn’t be more different from the uber-exclusive nature of the Met Gala. At the annual fashion benefit, phones are not allowed (though some enterprising guests have snuck them in and taken now-legendary photos that show more rule-breaking). Hell, until this year, Vogue had never live streamed the event in an effort to keep every aspect of the evening under lock and key. 

Still, social media has long been a place of discourse for all things pertaining to the Costume Institute. In 2015, despite the Institute putting in place a social media ban for those inside of the event, the hashtag #MetGala garnered over 1.5 million tweets on Twitter over the course of May 4, the day of that year’s China: Through the Looking Glass gala, a controversial theme about Orientalism and cultural appropriation that engendered some heated online discourse. There, people shared their opinions on celebrities’ interpretations of the theme in real time, in some ways eclipsing the event itself. The Met Gala also has its own peanut gallery on Instagram, as red carpet images are often shared by both fashion publications and stylists just minutes after a look is debuted, which are commented on and regrammed. The most popular Met moments among Instagram’s one billion users are often ones for the record books. See: Beyoncé in Givenchy in 2016, Ariana Grande in custom Vera Wang in 2018, and Cardi B in Thom Browne in 2019. Twitter took back the Met Gala from Instagramin 2020, when High Fashion Twitter Met Gala, a virtual red carpet held on the platform, exploded on the scene during the pandemic. 

“TikTok is going to change the world of media by granting access and reach to [talent] that wouldn’t normally have gotten it.”

Stella Wunder

But TikTok’s algorithm and content style are different from any other social media platform we’ve seen before. The Met Gala’s hush-hush and rule-bound structure could use some of TikTok’s levity, and its ability to make anyone an overnight sensation could prove to supercharge the event’s fame-making and trend-setting powers.

“TikTok is going to change the world of media by granting access and reach to [talent] that wouldn’t normally have gotten it,” Wunder says. For example, if the Met Gala was able to make or break a young designer before it was introduced to TikTok’s 100 million-plus monthly active users in the U.S., think about what it can do now that it has an all-powerful algorithm behind it, which can turn any small business into a crown jewel with just one video. The same goes for wardrobe and hair stylists, makeup artists, and even first-time attendees. If the two million people who watched Wunder and Tchiakpe’s Met Gala predictions were to rally behind a certain look from the night, it could reach viral Rihanna-at-Heavenly-Bodies status many times over, giving all those who played a part in the look on a digital pedestal. 

Since we already know that Gen Z enjoys an underdog mission, especially when it comes to fashion, it’s likely that Met Gala fans on TikTok will root for looks that aren’t heavily publicized elsewhere, giving opportunities to those among the new guard at the event. And for the first time, TikTokers will have a platform to amplify their opinions in a way that could potentially be even more popular than the PR-filtered messages put out by the fashion establishment. Not only does this create an entirely new kind of Met Gala experience, it also democratizes the event, which is famously elitist and exclusive. 

No, the 73-year-old benefit isn’t going to be overrun by TikTokers, nor will iPhones suddenly be allowed to vlog every detail of what happens inside. But the Met Gala in the age of TikTok is different, if only because it’s opened itself up to millions of new, young, and opinionated people, all of whom can get in on the action simply by posting their thoughts regarding the star-studded event, speaking about it in the same off-the-cuff way so many do on TikTok, in one 15-second video. It worked for two 19-year-old drama students who’ve been fangirling over the Met Gala since high school. What’s to say it won’t for you, too? (Just don’t forget to hashtag #MetGala). 

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Friday, September 10, 2021

19 Travel Duffel Bags To Freshen Up Your Travel Style

Finding a good duffel bag should be priority number one when it comes to travel gear. A duffel/weekender/hands-free carry-on should be just oversized enough and just flexible enough to fulfill all of your overpacking dreams without having to dedicate yourself to a bulky roller suitcase. But considering the differences in durability, size, weight distribution, and (equally as important) style, a travel bag can make or break even the shortest of trips. After all, the last thing you need to face mid-travel is back pain from uncomfortable straps or your cheap, nylon number ripping at the seams.

If sore shoulders and a bag that's seen better days en route to your weekend retreat doesn't sound like your cup of tea, then it's time to consider refreshing your go-to luggage. Ahead are 19 duffel bags that will serve to better your travel style, not cramp it. Whether you're packing a bag for a bon voyage or just a morning commute to the gym, you deserve to give yourself a break with these hassle-free options.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Everlane The ReNew Transit Weekender


Since the brand's beloved Twill Weekender bag is sold out, we found the next best thing: the ReNew Transit Weekender. This duffel is great for vacays, but can also be put to use as an everyday commuter bag (if you like to pack heavy).

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Everlane The ReNew Transit Weekender, $, available at Everlane

Lo & Sons Catalina Deluxe Tote


R29 readers are no stranger to Lo & Sons' quality boutique bags. The brand's Catalina collection is ideal for getaways. Durable enough for whatever adventures you take it on, features like a bottom pocket and adjustable compartments and straps make it a savvy traveler's best friend.

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Lo & Sons The Catalina Deluxe Tote, $, available at Lo & Sons

Lululemon Curved Lines Large Duffle Bag 29.5L


Pockets, pockets, and more pockets. Lululemon's large duffel bag is here to keep every one of your essentials accessible and organized and make your travels easy as pie.

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Lululemon Curved Lines Large Duffle Bag, $, available at Lululemon

Nike Brasilia


For a more affordable option, shop Nike's large and in charge Brasilia bag. According to one reviewer, it's, "fairly large and fits all [their] needs."

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Nike Nike Brasilia, $, available at Nike

July Daybreak Weekender


July is best known for its sleek and lightweight rolling luggage, but we can't forget about the brand's impressive collection of travel bags. The classic Daybreak Weekender is perfect for anyone looking to travel in style (hello, fancy leather handles).

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July Daybreak Weekender, $, available at July

Herschel Novel Duffle


We're giving this duffel extra props for its nifty shoe compartment and 14 unique colorways.

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Herschel Herschel Novel Duffle, $, available at Herschel

Calpak Hue Duffel Bag


Described as a minimalist duffel with maximum style, Calpak's Hue bag features a luggage sleeve, laptop compartment, discreet cell phone pocket, and exterior side handles.

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Calpak Hue Duffel Bag, $, available at Calpak

WANDF Foldable Travel Duffel Bag


Not all duffel bags are created fancy — some were made to meet Spirit Airlines carry-on guidelines and save you from tricky baggage fees. Seriously, check out our Amazon viral review here.

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WANDF Foldable Travel Duffel Bag, $, available at Amazon

Paravel Main Line Duffel Reviews


We applaud Paravel for its wide offerings of sustainable recycled luggage made from upcycled plastic water bottles, vegan leather, recycled polycarbonate, and more. One reviewer says, "It's the perfect size duffel for a weekend trip. I was able to pack five outfits plus toiletries and a book and pajama pants. Quality is superb, the material is a thick canvas making it water repellent. And it got to my house in three days!"

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Paravel Main Line Duffle Reviews, $, available at Paravel

KAVU Manastash Mini Duffle Bag


Mini duffels travel well too. This 9.5" bag is great for hikes, quick packing, and sightseeing in style.

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KAVU KAVU Manastash Mini Duffle Bag, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Away The Everywhere Bag


The Everywhere Bag's waterproof nylon exterior, roomy interior, and thoughtful compartments were made to keep your belongings safe. With 431 reviews and a 4.9 out of 5-star rating, we'd say it's a sure bet for stress-free travels.

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Away The Everywhere Bag, $, available at Away

Ban.do Getaway Traveler Bag


Vacation isn't just a place, it's a state of mind. Next time you jet off, take Ban.do's funky and functional "Mental Vacation" nylon duffel. In addition to its vibrant design, this bag comes with detachable mesh interior pouches, a bottom compartment for shoes, and a concealed front pocket for valuables.

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ban.do Getaway Traveler Bag - Mental Vacation, $, available at ban.do

Monos Metro Duffel


This sleek Monos duffel is so smartly designed it saved on happy reviewer from checking a bag. She says, "It’s spacious allowing me to comfortably pack numerous outfits while also storing my laptop. On top of that, I received numerous compliments and all of the pockets and features kept me organized." (Did we mention the front pocket is removable?)

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Monos Metro Duffel, $, available at Monos

Dooney & Bourke Getaway Cabriolet Medium Duffle


On the outside, this bag flaunts a simple and classic design with waterproof Cabriolet cloth, cowhide leather trim, and handstitched handles. Open it up and you'll find its vibrant cotton-lined interior and three handy-dandy pockets. One reviewer notes, "Love all the pockets for passports, phones, and other travel documents."

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Dooney & Bourke Getaway Cabriolet Medium Duffle, $, available at Dooney & Bourke

Tory Sport Ripstop Nylon Color-Block Duffle Bag


Color-blocking, retro design, and lightweight materials make this designer duffel the perfect sporty travel companion. Some must-have features include (but are not limited to): a removable crossbody strap, shoe compartment, and its 2-in-1 convertible style.

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Tory Sport Ripstop Nylon Color-Block Duffle Bag, $, available at Tory Burch

Fjallraven Vardag 30L Duffle Bag


Like many brands on this list, Fjallraven is not known for its travel duffel (as opposed to its posture-restoring backpacks), but they are worthy of attention. This simple 30-liter bag is optimal for weekend getaways, gym commutes, and spontaneous road trips.

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Fjällräven Vardag 30L Duffle Bag, $, available at Urban Outfitters

Madewell Essential Overnight Bag


This stylish overnight bag is estimated to ship by early October, but according to reviews, it's worth the wait. One happy customer says, "The leather is buttery and soft and the inside is super roomy... [I] plan on using this to bring a week full of clothes [and] I know I can fit it all. And, an extra bonus is that there are metal gold footbeds at the bottom of the bag which isn’t listed in the description!"

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Madewell The Essential Overnight Bag in Leather, $, available at Madewell

The North Face Base Camp Duffel


In The North Face travel bags we trust. The medium Base Camp Duffel can be toted in hand or carried on one's back, is water-resistant, and according to one reviewer it's, "...a bomb-proof bag."

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The North Face Base Camp Duffel - M, $, available at The North Face

Dagne Dover Landon Carryall


It's big, it'll carry all your stuff, and it's guaranteed to fit in the overhead bin on your flight. The Landon Carryall also comes in a myriad of sizes ranging from an extra small handbag to this extra-large carry-on — aka, you can collect them all.

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Dagne Dover Landon Carryall Bag, $, available at Dagne Dover

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