Tuesday, October 19, 2021

I Reviewed Abercrombie & Fitch’s Extended Sized Offerings

Let’s take a journey down memory lane to the clothes of my youth. Many of my fellow middle and early high schooler peers donned almost exclusively logo-clad garments from what I like to call “the triple A’s” (American Eagle, Aeropostale, and Abercrombie & Fitch). I did not have that luxury. Whether it was the lack of inclusive sizes offered that could accommodate my thicker frame or the high prices my parents were not willing to spend on a cheesy graphic tee, I didn’t frequent these retailers much in my youth. If you told me that would all change in my adulthood, I would have thought you were joking.

Since about 2017, Abercrombie & Fitch has been on a rebranding journey. In an attempt to shed itself of its problematic past, the brand has installed new leadership, elevated its pieces to target a more mature audience, extended sizing, and created inclusive inseam options across product categories.

“We began truly building relationships with our customers and with those who felt they were not served by the brand in the past. Developing any relationship is reliant upon two-way communication, so we started with listening, “Corey Robinson SVP, Head of Design & Merchandising , Abercrombie Brands, tells Refinery29 in an email.

While the brand still has a way to go with extending its sizes, it has laid a solid foundation for creating very intentional size extensions rather than hastily grading up from straight sizes. Too often, designers scale up their plus-size options from straight sizes, without redesigning or refitting for consideration actual plus-size bodies.

“Our intention is to make Abercrombie a brand where you don’t just ‘fit in,’ but where you truly belong, and in order to do that, we’re deliberately taking time to study the unique concerns in each category, speak to our customers and associates who wear those sizes, test the fits with multiple body types, and provide solutions for the greatest amount of bodies in those sizes,” explains Robinson of its newer approach.

Abercrombie & Fitch gifted me an assortment of their products in the extended sizing range so I could give my full honest review on how the garments from this new era really stack up. Keep scrolling to see what I thought about various garments across product categories.

Size Worn: 36 (22) Long
Size Range: 23-37


Denim is always tricky, especially when it comes to extending sizing. With the creation of the Curve Love denim line, I found the fit of the jeans to be one of the best I’ve tried in a long time. I always have gaping because of my hip-to-waist ratio. That was reduced noticeably with the design of the Curve love Ultra-high Rise Ankle Straight Jeans that I got to try on. There was enough room around my hips without it feeling too baggy. As far as length goes, I opted for the long denim because I wanted the pants to be full length without a crop, and they go right down to my ankles which is ideal. Check out more thoughts I had on Abercrombie Denim here.

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Dresses/ Jumpsuits

Size Worn: XXL
Size Range: XXS-XXXL

I was eager to try on dresses and jumpsuits because it seems like there are more and more weddings, holiday parties, and special occasions coming up every day. I tried on the Open Tie-Back Midi dress, Twist Front Cutout Jumpsuit, and Off-The-Shoulder Midi Sweater Dress and was pleasantly surprised at how well they fell on my body. But for the purposes of my review, I want to focus on the midi dress for its event-ready potentially.

The Open Tie-Back Midi dress is the perfect wedding guest ensemble. The cute open-back details and the cinched-in waist/flowy skirt combo are particularly striking. This dress is also reminiscent of ones you might find while shopping at Reformation. I love the slit and that the sleeves were elasticized to accommodate a wide variety of shoulders. I have a slightly shorter torso, so the straps were a teeny bit too long on me. The materials were a little bit silky but also felt a little like crepe fabric.

I wore an XXL which translates to a 20-22 on Abercrombie size charts. With the stretchy shoulders and tie belt, I also think it’s possible for someone one size larger than me to wear the XXL. I’m also happy to report this particular style goes up to an XXXL(24-26).

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Tops

I tried on a few different types of tops from A&F that I really liked. My favorites were the seamless rib scoop-neck bodysuit, the luxe loft squareneck tank, and the 90s oversized button-up shirt. As far as sizing goes, I was XXL (20-22) across the board with all the tops. For reference, I’m pictured above wearing the bodysuit and button-down top. If you scroll down on this article, you’ll see me wearing the tank top!. 

They all fit properly so you know A&F definitely put a lot of work into making sure sizing was consistent no matter what top you get. The bodysuit and tank fit close to the body. If you like a looser fit, these might not be the right tops for you.

As far as texture goes, the bodysuit was a ribbed knit that was actually a true seamless top and did not show any lines around the bottom area. The tank top felt very soft, almost like a furry animal, and was almost a little fuzzy to the chart. The oversized white button-down was honestly pretty standard as far as tops go. It fits really well and wasn’t tight on my arms which is usually an issue for me with button-downs. 

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Pants (Non-Denim)

Size Worn: 36W(22) with the long inseam
Size Range: 23W-37W with extra short, short, regular, and long inseam

For me, finding pants that I really adore is particularly difficult and too often incredibly disappointing, so this is the category I was most looking forward to trying on. My favorite article of clothing I tried from Abercrombie’s offerings was the vegan leather 90s straight pants. I absolutely LOVED them. If I could sing sweet lovely tunes to them all day long, I would. They were that good. For faux leather, they had a pretty authentic leather feel. The quality of the craftsmanship was very apparent.

The pants felt smooth and easily glided on over my thick thighs with no problem thanks to the little bit of stretch in the pants. There was absolutely no waist gaping. I’m 5’9″ and got the 36W with the long inseam. I could have definitely gotten the regular inseam and been fine on length. These pants are extra special because they come in four different inseam lengths. It’s probably one of the most inclusive inseams options I’ve seen available. I cannot emphasize enough that these feel like they were made just for me. The black is cool and classic, and the dark brown is a good way to wear a leather look that has a warmer feel to it. With how great these were, I’ll definitely be looking forward to trying other faux leather goods from A&F.

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Loungewear

Size Worn: XXL top & XXL bottom (w/ the long inseam)
Size Range: XXS-XXL w/ short, regular & long inseams

Up until 2020, I didn’t really wear sweats much at all. However, with the increased push towards comfort during the pandemic, I finally caved and began integrating comfy sweats in more of my day-to-day looks. Abercrombie has a surprisingly solid collection of sophisticated-yet-comfy sweats. I tried on the Luxe Terry Colorblock Crew Sweatshirt and The Luxe Terry Wide Leg Sweatpants. First off, these sweats are sturdy and have a good weight to them. However, they aren’t overly thick, so it’s definitely possible to layer a turtleneck under it and even throw on a puffer coat for extra chilly days. The soft terry fabric feels luxurious and extra smooth to the touch. I love the wide-leg design as opposed to gathered sweatpants bottoms because it looks a little less like something you threw on without any intention. The set looks pretty refined for loungewear. The smooth lines and perfect stitching make for a very high-quality feeling fabric.

I wore an XXL in both styles. I think someone that’s somewhere between a regular 2XL/3XL in plus sizes would fit in the loungewear XXL. I’m usually around 22 and it fits me pretty well. I have thicker hips and thighs than my waist usually and my bust is an inch or so more than their size chart accommodates for, but I still fit in this set well.

Shop Abercrombie & Fitch

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Charles Harbison’s Banana Republic Collab Is A Celebration Of Black Women

The fashion world can thank the women in Charles Harbison’s family for his love of style. Growing up in North Carolina, the California-based Harbison Studio designer drew inspiration from his mother Dana, a tool factory worker, as well as his grandmother Hattie, a factory knitter. As a kid, come Friday night, Harbison would watch them take off their blue-collar attire and transform into “elegant, confident versions of themselves,” with the help of oversized jewelry and a pantsuit.

“It’s a beautiful way to navigate the world where you don’t compromise any part of yourself,” he tells Refinery29. “I saw those women do that beautifully.”

It then makes sense that Dana and Hattie, as well as Harbison’s aunts and cousins, became the inspiration behind the designer’s collaboration with Banana Republic, out now. The 18-piece collection is a homecoming of sorts for Harbison, who worked for Banana Republic in college, and includes two-piece utilitarian suits, puff-sleeve tops, belted mini skirts, and day dresses.

“The great thing is that we’ve seen that collaboration grow from something quite small and hyper-focused to something a bit more expansive over this past year,” Harbison says, noting that the range of pieces in the lineup has expanded throughout the process. “And that is a testament to the synergy between Harbison and Banana Republic.”

Since launching in 2013, Harbison Studio has focused on minimal, structured sportswear that was heavily influenced by his training as an architect at Parsons The New School for Design — pieces worn by celebrities like Beyoncé, Solange Knowles, and Michelle Obama. In 2016, Harbison moved to Los Angeles. As a result, the brand went on a hiatus. “I left New York for L.A. to establish a better, more sustainable life for myself, to find a space for self-preservation,” he says.

Harbison believes the first iteration of his brand was ahead of its time but may have not been as well-received back then. “I was really carving out a brand identity that was reflective of this chic, modernist aesthetic but also rooted in themes that were important to me like racial and gender equity, queer affirmation, discussions around class and the Earth,” he says. Inspired by last year’s racial reckoning, the designer got back to work.

“Coming back into the fashion conversation, it’s exciting because I feel like we’re primed now to have discussions in a more open way through product,” he says. “It’s really an exciting time to be back.” 

Harbison Studio’s comeback collection debuted last month at New York Fashion Week during the Harlem’s Fashion Row show, which highlights the work of emerging designers of color. Once again, the designer showcased his knack for bold minimalism in the form of tailored mini dresses and high-low skirts, as well as more on-trend pieces like cropped tube tops, opera gloves, and midriff cut-outs. The lineup also included pieces from his collection with Banana Republic, a deal that came through thanks to the guidance of HFR founder Brandice Daniel: “My trust in the [HFR] agenda, and also in looking at the years that [Daniel’s] had this agenda, made it such that I was willing to take a risk in a way that I hadn’t in years by putting my hat in the ring for this collaboration.” 

Once the partnership was secured, Harbison looked to his past. Inspired by the idea of “Black joy, freedom, and preservation,” Harbison traveled to Pioneertown, California, a community in the San Bernardino desert, known for its movie set-like scenery, that was first established in 1946. Harbison said this space — marked by “contemplation, peace, and meditation” — allowed him to think deeply about his relationship with the women in his family that influenced him to go into fashion. By the time he traveled to Pioneertown in 2020, Harbison hadn’t seen any of them in over a year, which pushed him to dig deep into his memories with them. “I really just imagined this world where we were celebrating the pioneering efforts of Black women,” he said. It all came together in a collection that combines the Southern, feminine aesthetics of the women in Harbison’s family with the Western elements of Pioneertown.

As a Black queer designer, Harbison said he is aware that his identity offers a unique fashion perspective. In fact, it’s the very thing that motivates him to push for collections that celebrate his heritage and challenging what American sportswear has traditionally been. “I’m bringing so many identities and experiences to American sportswear that were really left out during the founding period of this fashion designation,” he said, referring to the rise of sportswear in the 20th century when pioneering Black designers like Stephen Burrows were often eclipsed by names like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. With that in mind, Harbison Studio is “centering women of color, queer identities, all while being rooted in something modernist, sophisticated and highbrow.”

The Harbison Studio x Banana Republic capsule collection is available online and in select Banana Republic stores. 

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Odylyne The Ceremony’s Valerie And Her Week Of Wonders Bridal Collection Includes Puff Sleeves & High-Low Skirts

The 1970 movie Valerie and Her Week Of Wonders tells the story of a young girl who gets her period for the first time. This initiates a sequence of fantastic and, at times, terrifying events that take place over the course of one week. Marriage is another major milestone in a woman’s life that can, likewise, be equal parts blissful and scary. Or, at least that’s what Odylyne The Ceremony’s latest bridal collection seems to suggest.

Designer Stephanie White used the cult-classic film as the inspiration behind the brand’s latest release, appropriately titled “Her Week Of Wonders.” Launched during New York Bridal Fashion Week, the collection includes six wedding looks that evoke an ethereal, witchy aesthetic. This manifests in soft textures and silhouettes that exude a “youthful vibe” and the brand’s first-ever velvet dress, featuring a removable bow-shaped neck piece and an embellished veil-like cape. Other numbers feature more daring silhouettes (at least when it comes to bridal) that include high-low skirts, plunging necklines, and ruffled details. 

The standout pieces of the collection though are the puff-sleeve gowns. Despite billowy sleeves currently trending, according to White, the dresses had been in the making since 2017 when the designer created a custom order for a bride that included oversized shoulder details. She started incorporating the puff sleeves into her looks, elevating the silhouette that’s more commonly associated with children’s wear than bridal. “I think we do it in a way that feels sophisticated,” says White.

This is in line with the brand’s mission: Since launching in 2014, Odylyne The Ceremony has carved out a space for brides looking for a creative spin on the traditional princess ballgown. For White, the brand’s free-spirited approach to bridal looks leaves space for self-expression on the big day. “It’s playful and youthful. It definitely has character,” she says of the label.

But Odylyne The Ceremony is also for brides who love fantasy. Much of White’s collections are inspired by movies and books she loved as a child, making her the perfect person to design a dress for a happily ever after. “I wanted to have the bride feel that sense of magic when she’d wear one of [my] gowns,” says White. 

Following a year of canceled weddings as a result of the pandemic, White says that a growing portion of brides is opting out of the traditional white dress, creating an opportunity for a brand like Odylyne The Ceremony to provide them with alternatives. So while the “Her Week Of Wonders” collection explored the themes of innocence, White is releasing another installment of the drop during the holiday season. Inspired by the eerie adventures Valerie experiences in the film, the collection will feature black dresses, sequins, and glitter. “If I could go back, I would get married in a black dress,” she says. 

As modern brides continue to expand their definition of a wedding dress, with pantsuits and jumpsuits increasing in popularity, White is expecting the brand’s lineup to get even more unexpected: “Every girl wants to see something new, and I think it’s important for brands to evolve.”

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Monday, October 18, 2021

How HOKAs Became The “It” Sneaker Beloved By Both Marathoners & Fashion People

If you’ve spent any time looking at running shoes (or everyday ugly dad sneakers, for that matter), it’s likely that you’ve already come across HOKA. Known for its extremely cushioned soles, the chunky sneaker brand doesn’t really boast any sleek or sexy silhouettes — but that seems to be part of the overall appeal amongst fanatics who are obsessed with the cloud-like bounce of HOKA styles. And, unlike other global athletic brands that blur the line between the authentic sporty stuff with the more lifestyle-focused, non-athletic wares (that are less appropriate for actual workouts), HOKA continues to operate with a zeroed-in, singular focus: to provide solutions for people who are constantly on their feet, whether they’re marathon runners, nurses, or pavement-pounding urbanites. In other words, HOKA sticks to what it knows and doesn’t try too hard (or doesn’t even seem to care) to be something that they’re not.

“At first, our consumers consisted primarily of runners who were ‘in the know’ about athletic shoe trends, and now everyone is trying HOKA — college kids, Olympic athletes, streetwear influencers, fashion designers, walkers, people who are recovering from an injury, etc.,” Gretchen Weimer, HOKA’s Global VP of Product, writes me in an email. “Our dedication to providing both an exceptional product and an ethos of inclusivity has led to a substantial amount of word-of-mouth recommendations that has propelled us to become one of the fastest-growing brands in the industry.” (On the topic of the brand’s inclusive styles, Weimer writes, “We know that men and women often share the same desire for both colorful or neutral-colored footwear, but the difference comes down to the wearing occasion. The approach with our all-gender styles was more driven by that desire, and not trying to specify that certain styles or colors are only for men or women; it feels more inclusive.”) And, in a series of very smart partnerships, HOKA has also catapulted into the fashion stratosphere via collaborations with hip brands like Outdoor Voices, Opening Ceremony, and Engineered Garments.

HOKA Women’s Bondi X, $200

But, even after many successful runs on limited-edition collab styles, HOKA remains loyal to the long-distance joggers who first put the brand on the map. Colorado-based Hayley Cashdollar, who has completed eight marathons, two ultramarathons, and typically runs at least an hour every day and several hours on weekends, says, “I first heard about HOKAs years ago when one of my friends was having trouble with her feet and high-impact HIIT classes. She found HOKA and loved them…so I also took the plunge and found they were perfect for my recovery runs on the day after long runs. They were like running on clouds and were noticeably more comfortable on my feet. I’m not looking for that type of comfort on all of my runs, but it has a time and place and HOKAs are a great recovery tool for me personally.” When I asked if she’s noticed how HOKAs have been embraced by style folks, she observes, “With sneakers, in general, being so popular, it feels inevitable that something as unique as the big sole on the HOKA would capture the attention of non-runners.”

NYC-based running coach and jump rope enthusiast Caitlin Lee (who has run nine marathons and over 100 road races), tells me she also discovered HOKA through word-of-mouth: “I first heard about HOKAs from my running friends in 2015 or 2016. My initial reaction was that they were ugly and bulky-looking, and it was hard to transition from the idea of ultralight shoes that also looked minimalist. The reason I gave in, though, was because they are truly very supportive and well-made. I feel that they actually impacted my running form, forcing me to use more of my foot, rather than just running on my forefoot,” she says. Plus, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn where she lives, “people stop me on the street all the time — if I’m at a stoplight to cross, someone always has a comment [on my HOKAs]. And I definitely see people just wearing them with dresses or jeans.”

When HOKA sent over a pair of Bondi X for me to test drive, I first thought the brand sent me the wrong size — the shoes looked huge. Turns out, I was fooled by the protruding soles. The sneakers did fit true to size. And, the soles were so bouncy and cushy that I felt like I had slight motion sickness (which quickly dissipated once I got used to the squishiness). The shoes also have a rocking quality to them that makes me want to spring forward. As a person who primarily runs for the bus or subway, and occasionally runs for the purpose of cardio (though, TBH, I can only really do up to one mile before I’m pooped), I can see how HOKAs encourage “running behavior.” Despite the soles being so thick, the shoes are actually super lightweight because of all the advanced technical details.

“A few elements that make HOKAs stand out are our Meta-Rocker geometry, which complements the natural gait cycle and reduces the height differential between heel and toe,” says Weimer. “And our styles are equipped with carbon fiber plates, allowing for a propulsive ride as the plate curls under toes to deliver a smooth transition through the gait cycle.”

Below, I asked Weimer to identify and elaborate on the brand’s five top-selling sneaker styles for women, what activity they’re best suited for, and how each style is differentiated. And, for your sneaker-shopping convenience, these are also sorted in the order of most hyped to least hyped, based on real customer ratings and reviews found on hoka.com.

HOKA Women’s Bondi 7, $150

Product Breakdown: Available in 10 colors, widths regular and wide, women’s sizes 5–12
Best For: Road running
What The Brand Says: “This is the most cushioned shoe in the HOKA road shoe lineup, delivering a smooth, balanced ride over any distance with its ultra-soft memory foam designed to accommodate a narrower heel and a collar that conforms to a wide variety of ankles, cradling the Achilles,” says Weimer.
The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 4,412 reviews on hoka.com
What HOKA Fans Say: “I have very wide feet and usually have to resort to men’s shoes to get the width I need. Hoka Bondis are so very comfortable, and I can get them in women’s styles! My shoes are so very comfortable and I love them very much. I’ve now gotten my husband, my two best friends, and their husbands to get Hokas for themselves. One of the men even claims that wearing them has helped his back issues a bit. I love these shoes, and highly recommend them. I’m on my third pair BTW, and have no intentions of ever changing brands.”

HOKA Women’s Speedgoat 4, $145

Product Breakdown: Available in 7 colors, widths regular and wide, women’s sizes 5–11, all gender sizes M5/W6–M14/W15, and in waterproof GORE-TEX
Best For: Trail running
What The Brand Says: “Named for HOKA athlete Karl ‘Speedgoat’ Meltzer, the Speedgoat 4 is part of an award-winning family known for making quick work of technical terrain. Grippy on the uphill and secure on the downhill, the Speedgoat 4 is fit for every trail,” says Weimer.
The Hype: 4.2 out of 5 stars and 525 reviews on hoka.com
What HOKA Fans Say: “These are hands down the most comfortable shoes I’ve ever worn. I’m an RN, running on my feet all day, days on end. These are awesome, comfortable and cute! I literally feel like I have a bounce in my step.”

HOKA Women’s Clifton 8, $130

Product Breakdown: Available in 7 colors, widths regular and wide, women’s sizes 5–12
Best For: Road running
What The Brand Says: “The Clifton 8 delivers the perfect combination of soft and light with one of our most energetic foams to date, perfect for pounding pavement,” says Weimer.
The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 408 reviews on hoka.com
What HOKA Fans Say: “I got the Clifton 8 after reading so many reviews, and seeing they had a 30-day wear and return policy. I wore them for park days at Disney World, and they are the first shoe in years to make my feet feel the same in the morning and at night. I have broken my big toe, and have Plantar Fasciitis in my right foot, so no shoe is ever comfortable too long, but these were great. They are like walking on clouds. And I didn’t need to do much breaking in before wearing them to the parks. I wore them a day or two to work before heading to Disney. Highly recommend!!!”

HOKA Women’s Carbon X 2, $180

Product Breakdown: Available in 8 colors, regular width only, women’s sizes 5–11
Best For: Road running
What The Brand Says: “Positioned as an endurance racer, the Carbon X2 delivers the same propulsive speed as its predecessor in an adaptable silhouette geared for training and racing alike,” says Weimer.
The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 109 reviews on hoka.com
What HOKA Fans Say: “These are wonderful! I am loathe to praise them too much, yet, as it’s only been a few dozen miles, but – fingers crossed – I’ve had no ITB/knee issues since the switch [to these sneakers], and have been loving the sheer feeling of propulsion in these.”

HOKA Women’s Rincon 3, $115

Product Breakdown: Available in 5 colors, widths regular and wide, women’s sizes 5–12
Best For: Road running
What The Brand Says: “Delivering the best cushion-to-weight ratio on the market, the Rincon 3 is an extremely light silhouette with an asymmetrical tongue, thinner pull tab, and a vented-mesh upper for ultimate breathability,” says Weimer. “Also, our extra-light midsole foam sports aggressive cutouts and enhanced rubber coverage for improved durability.”
The Hype: 3.9 out of 5 stars and 36 reviews on hoka.com
What HOKA Fans Say: “Man… I’m usually a Clifton girl but I was really interested to give the Rincon a try and I’m SO glad I did. I was a little nervous about how light the shoes were out of the box, like cmon these are really gonna feel good?!?! Well butter my biscuit YEPPPPP! I felt super light and my feet and the responsiveness of the shoes is impressive! Glad I made the switch!!”

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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