Thursday, April 28, 2022

Serena Williams Always Wanted Her Own Nike Building — Here’s A Peek Inside

In 2003, Serena Williams signed a multimillion, multi-year contract with Nike at age 21. Almost 20 years later, the sportswear company is celebrating Williams’ rich legacy by naming a new building in the Nike World Headquarters in Beaverton, Oregon after her — an honor only shared by 10 other athletes in all of sports history, including Michael Jordan and LeBron James. Williams’ new structure stands as Nike’s largest building at an impressive million square feet, boasting a tennis court, a high-rise tower, and a special auditorium named after the tennis star’s daughter, Olympia. Williams’ name is displayed in bold capital letters for every guest to see, an unforgettable reminder of her greatness.  

When I arrived on the campus, I was instantly transported back to third grade, as the little girl who had just learned about the up-and-coming Williams sisters. As my tour group and I headed towards the lobby of the building, we passed by three abstract digital-motion pillars, and I later learned they were symbols representing the dynamic and versatile energy that has fueled Williams throughout her career. At the front desk were glass cases that housed memorabilia from her past tournaments. Each glass pillar represented Serena’s 23 Grand Slam wins grouped together by tournament: Wimbledon, US Open, Australian Open, and French Open. But the pieces weren’t just trophies and medals; Williams’ eclectic on-court fashions over the years were also highlighted because she has always been as passionate about asserting her unique identity through her style as she has been about showing off her skills. Nike made sure to include the bedazzled denim jacket she sported to her first-ever meeting with the company to show them her love for style and fashion as well as the iconic cheetah print outfit she wore in 2014 for the US Open. 

Throughout the tour, we were able to check out the many other dope amenities that really bring the space together, such as the building’s three wings (Phenom, Warrior, and Muse) that are connected by the main tower. There, the Wimbledon restaurant sits at the top of the tower, and guests are treated to a stunning view of the observation deck overlooking Nike’s sprawling campus. Notably, the building also includes consumer labs that will bring the products to life in a storefront-like showroom; with a thousand designers working in consumer insights, apparel, footwear, and product merchandising, Nike employees have an exciting opportunity to work closely together in a new space dedicated to collaboration. Additionally, the tour group had the pleasure of visiting the Olympia Theater — wall to wall purple in Williams’ favorite color — to engage in a fireside chat with Nike’s Chief Design Officer, John Hoke. 

The importance of the Serena Williams Building is that it continues to show other Black women that we are capable of being great and that we should stop at nothing when setting personal expectations for ourselves.

The amount of input Williams had in the design of the building itself is a reflection of how hands-on she is with all of her work, specifically with her Nike collections. Jonathan Johnsongriffin, a former Nike intern turned VP, Global Creative Director of William’s Design Crew, praised the tennis icon for her attention to detail and passion for her work with the company.

 “I’ve worked with a lot of signature athletes during my time here at Nike but I’ve never been a part of a process like this where an athlete is so engaged and involved,” Johnsongriffin told us. “Serena helps pick the apprentices, which city we look for apprentices, all the way down to the design styles. The current cohort and I are actually meeting with her to show her the latest design we have for next year’s collection — that is an incredible amount of access that sometimes you don’t always get with an athlete.”  

Although experiencing her Nike building in person was wholly inspirational for me, a Black girl who grew up watching her dominate the tennis world on television, I do wish that I’d gotten the opportunity to speak with more of the Black women designers who work alongside Williams at Nike. To hear a Black woman’s perspective on collaborating with the greatest athlete of all time — who just so happens to be a Black woman — would have underscored the cultural impact of Williams being honored this way. One such designer, Emiko McCoy, was part of the first cohort of Serena’s design crew in New York City. During one stop on the tour, McCoy shared her excitement over working closely with Williams and described the energy of the tennis star’s collections as “exuding joy.” I’m sure that there are many more stories about Black women being motivated by Williams’ work ethic, and Nike would only benefit from sharing those stories with the world. 

The importance of the Serena Williams Building is that it continues to show other Black women that we are capable of being great and that we should stop at nothing when setting personal expectations for ourselves. It represents the many facets of her life and embodies the layers of who she is as a person. Ringing true to the statement that Black women are not a monolith, our experiences and interests shape how we grow. Williams is not just a tennis player, she is an entrepreneur and fashion enthusiast and this building is an added representation of her continued legacy.

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Harnesses Are Trending — Here’s What It’s Like Wearing One

Welcome to Refinery29’s So, How Is It Really? where we take a look at all of the topics that have the internet talking. In studying them up close, we answer the question of what it’s really like to try out a trend like a harness, a viral product, or an unexpected TikTok hack.

Ever since designer Sally LaPointe unveiled her brand’s spring 2022 collection at a rave-like presentation full of neon lights and blazers paired with harnesses, I haven’t stopped thinking about the latter accessory. The styling secured my obsession: Monochrome, work-appropriate suits juxtaposed with harnesses better suited for a night of pre-pandemic partying. 

As the trend caught on, with designers like Dion Lee and Dior showing their own takes for the spring and fall 2022 seasons, the urge to get one of my own grew. After two years of loungewear and nap dresses, it was time for some discipline. A leather harness would surely do the trick.

It seems I’m not the only one interested in adding some bits of “fetishcore” into my wardrobe. Searches for harnesses were up by 132% month-over-month in 2022, according to Lyst, while other BDSM-inspired accessories, like leather chokers and latex products, were also on the rise. On TikTok, the trend is spreading: #leatherharness has garnered over 10 million views, thanks to creators showing off their styling tricks. 

While I gathered some inspiration from creators on TikTok for my own experiment, I figured the best way to approach this was to wear the piece to a set of situations I wouldn’t associate with a harness-clad outfit — a Friday dinner and a family barbecue — and incorporate the accessory into outfits that feel like a second skin to me. So I set out to try a harness by Zana Bayne, a designer known for her leather accessories made by hand, and another from LaPointe’s spring 2022 collection. 

First, I paired a LaPointe vinyl harness with a white button-down shirt, beige shorts, and black heels to a Friday dinner with friends. Although one might expect risky outfits to be worn with one’s closest companions, as a conservative dresser, that’s not something I normally do. So when I walked out to the kitchen to see if my roommate was ready to head out, I was pleasantly surprised by her reaction: “Wow! Fabulous.” So far so good. It got even better when we got to our dinner spot — Chacha Mama on the Upper West Side, thank me later! — and one of the waiters stopped to compliment my outfit on the way out. 

Throughout the dinner, I noticed how comfortable I felt wearing a piece that was basically made to constrain my movements. I stood taller, more confident, asserting my presence with poise. Were there families with kids giving my outfit the side eye? Yes. But this is New York — anything goes. 

For my next experiment, I walked a riskier road. While on my recent travels to visit family in Puerto Rico, I packed the harness in my carryon, afraid I’d be stopped by TSA officials. I could only imagine what they’d think I do for a living if I told them I was carrying this “for work.” Thankfully, I didn’t have to suffer through that. But I still chose to wear it around family members during a Good Friday barbecue. Oh, lord.  

I decided to pair the harness with a black midi dress and flatforms. The otherwise conservative outfit was made subversive by the harness, a juxtaposition I carefully chose to trick my relatives into liking this outfit. It worked. As soon as I walked into my mother’s room, she said, “¿Y eso? It looks good.” Later, at the family function, no one batted an eye when I showed up wearing the accessory, which I took as a sign that they weren’t surprised that, as a devout agnostic, I chose a holy day to sport a dungeon-ready harness. 

During the barbecue, I kept feeling confident, just like during the dinner. My back was straighter (I bet my chiropractor will like this experiment), and I felt like my outfit said everything there was to know about me to the people who think they know me best. 

I packed the harness back in my carryon, while doing some mental math on how many could I afford to get for myself. I shall obey the trend’s calling soon enough. If you feel like it too, here are some options to try now.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

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Wednesday, April 27, 2022

Fetishcore Is Here To Release Your Fashion Inhibitions

Earlier this year, during London Fashion Week, RuPaul’s Drag Race winner Violet Chachki walked the Richard Quinn runway dressed in a latex bodysuit and black pumps with a leash in her hand, while a man tied to the leather accessory walked by her side. It was just one of the few instances in 2022 in which fetishes have appeared on the fashion scene, making style sexier, kinkier, and freer. 

Trend forecasters at the shopping platform Lyst have deemed this trend “fetishcore,” highlighting that searches for related items on the site have jumped amid an increasing acceptance of BDSM-adjacent styles on the runways and red carpets. Searches for “harness” have increased 132% month-over-month on the platform, while queries for “leather choker” have increased by 100% since the beginning of the year. The platform has also seen a 26% rise in page views for “latex.” 

Since the beginning of 2022, aesthetics associated with BDSM — a set of erotic practices that include bondage, domination, sadism, and masochism — have entered the mainstream fashion landscape. Actress Julia Fox has channeled her former profession as a dominatrix through her viral looks, sporting head-to-toe leather, including pants and strapless tops, and more recently, a necklace shaped like a hand choking her at the Vanity Fair Oscars after party. Dua Lipa also tapped into fetishcore by wearing a black-and-gold Versace dress from the house’s fall 1992 collection, aptly titled “Miss S&M,” to the 2022 Grammy Awards. 

On the runways, designers have also embraced the trend. Take, for example, Vaquera’s fall 2022 collection, which included latex bodysuits underneath T-shirts and dresses, or Richard Quinn’s multiple latex pieces in the fall 2022 lineup, which varied from bodysuits to opera gloves. Meanwhile, Coach showed choker necklaces with keys attached to them, as well as a wide array of leather jackets, for fall 2022, and LaPointe took BDSM into workwear with harnesses worn over monochrome suits for spring 2022. 

VAQUERA FW22 27 FEVRIER 2022 PARIS FASHIONWEEK

Like many trends in fashion, this one is also cyclical. In the 1980s, a precursor of fetishcore emerged in pop culture with the help of artists like Madonna and Depeche Mode’s Martin Gore, who used leather, lingerie, and harnesses to exhibit the subculture’s impact on the world stage. Later, in the 2010s, Lady Gaga also ushered in a new era of kinkcore through latex ensembles, harnesses, and sky-high black boots, while Rihanna unleashed her kinky persona wearing shibari-style ties and latex for the music video for her hit single “S&M.” Kim Kardashian more recently made the tight-fitting material a must-have with various outfits that resembled American Horror Story’s Rubber Man. 

Yet, the trend is not without controversy. Sex workers have often pointed out that designers borrow the styles they’ve championed without paying homage to these communities and highlighting their struggles. “Being inspired by sex work is not surprising or wrong,” wrote Gigi Fong in Hypebae. “But until sex workers can exist without shame, lack of safety and fear of imprisonment, the appropriation of their lifestyle and aesthetic will continue to be offensive.” Still, Fong celebrated some instances where appreciation is still welcomed, including Chachki’s walk during the Richard Quinn fashion show and Gianni Versace’s “Miss S&M” collection.

Now, the evidence suggests that, much like in the 1980s, when excess and liberation led the aesthetics of the era, both designers and mainstream culture are thirsty for some vision of freedom. After two years in an ongoing pandemic and amid a nationwide repression of LGBTQ+ and reproductive rights, fashion is inviting people to celebrate their sexuality, from workwear-ready leather harnesses to party-all-night leather dresses and dungeon-appropriate latex bodysuits. 

Will you obey fashion’s command? If so, here are some essentials to help you channel the fetishcore trend. 

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Choker Necklace

Whether leather or metal, a chocker necklace is key to exude the BDSM energy — safely, of course.

Leather Harness

From minimal to full-on bondage, leather harnesses are an easy way to kink up any outfit, even workwear.

Latex Dress

While latex may be look hard to put on, it looks too good to pass. Go for an easy mini dress in a basic color — in this case, black or red — to channel your inner dominatrix.

Head-to-Toe Leather

If latex isn’t a viable option (I mean, allergies happen), go for a head-to-toe leather outfit. Yes, even opera gloves can be made BDSM-ready.

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Tuesday, April 26, 2022

How To Dress For Hot Girl Summer (Without The Pressure Or The $$$)

When Megan Thee Stallion inspired the first Hot Girl Summer in 2019, few of us had any hesitations about living our best lives. And many of us did just that. One year later however, during the first few months of the pandemic, summer meant sofa cocktails and Zoom therapy sessions. Then when summer ’21 came around, what we thought was going to be our year ended up getting spoiled by an unpredictable traffic light system that put paid to our travel plans, and half-hearted festivals going off with several hitches.

That brings us to now. We’re anticipating the Hot Girl Summer to end all Hot Girl Summers. COVID restrictions are few and far between, weddings are back on the books and travel vouchers can finally be redeemed. With events majorly upping the ante and the overall excitement of this year’s possibility, there’s a mounting pressure to spend more, go out more, experience more this summer. And maybe, just maybe, the pressure might be too much.

One look at our social feeds and we’re bombarded with messages from brands and content creators encouraging us to shop. Event-specific shopping edits are hugely successful marketing strategies (e.g. Nasty Gal’s ‘The Journey Is The Destination’ festival edit and PrettyLittleThing’s Hot Girl Summer drop). Influencers are sharing massive shopping hauls and memes about overspending on clothes are a dime a dozen.

@boohoo Bills? We don’t know her👀🛍 #boohoo #shoppingaddiction #fashion ♬ I did it myself – Keltie

Sure, this is all part of the capitalism cycle but this year’s summer-ready messaging feels particularly magnified following the uncertainty of the last two years. This leads us to ask: what if we don’t have the money to be spending loads this summer? What if we’re still working on our relationship with our new, post-pandemic body? What if we just want to enjoy a bit more freedom this summer – without feeling the need to look the part, too?

Let us be the first to say: it’s okay to feel this way. It’s okay not to do it all this summer. Hot Girl Summer is just a mindset so here are three major tenets to remember when it comes to summer style that doesn’t break the bank (or harm the Earth).

Shop your own wardrobe first

Remember when we were captivated by capsule wardrobes and minimalism, only for them to be overshadowed by the impulse shopping and overconsumption of the pandemic? By meeting somewhere in the middle (because minimalism has its own set of issues) we can discover lots of gems from the most perfect, most sustainable place to shop: our own wardrobe.

Ahead of summer, before you tap ‘add to cart’ on several new dresses, cute tops and that suit you’ve been eyeing in the color of the season, remember that there are already tons of summer-ready clothes in your wardrobe. Whether you bought them mid-pandemic in anticipation of better summers to come or have realized they don’t fit like they used to, now’s the time to pull them out, give them some love (like a dry clean or alteration if needed) or re-home them for someone else’s Hot Girl Summer instead.  

There are even apps to help you do that, like Whering and Stylebook, both of which allow you to digitize your entire wardrobe and build outfits with the help of stylists. 

You can’t buy fun, no matter what a brand tells you

Capitalism has conditioned us to buy new outfits for one-off events, regardless of whether we plan to wear them again. Fast fashion makes this kind of overconsumption possible for the masses, with brands pumping out thousands of products a year or even per month. 

As we enter the second weekend of this year’s Coachella festival, we are reminded of how – somewhere between Woodstock and the inception of Instagram – music festivals became commercial opportunities and content factories rather than cultural experiences. 

Trend forecaster Mandy Lee (@oldloserinbrooklyn) touched on this in an analysis on TikTok earlier this week. “Coachella’s like, the perfect example of how capitalism sells us the promise of unforgettable experiences, community and music all under the guise of participating in capitalism,” she said.

@oldloserinbrooklyn My quick analysis on the shift of Coachella culture/fashion #coachella #analysis #fashion #revolve #coachella2022 ♬ You – Petit Biscuit

Lee isn’t the only one taking note. From influencers literally going to Coachella in sweats to the spike in wardrobe rentals for summer events like festivals and weddings, there are some promising moves away from this consumerist mindset.

Experience moments; don’t curate them

We’ve grown so accustomed to seeing our diaries through a social media lens that it’s rare for friends to go for dinner and not take a single photo. Holidays now aren’t just for us; we broadcast them to our friends and followers. Add the pressure of Hot Girl Summer ’22 into the mix and it’s no wonder you might be feeling pangs of anxiety.

That need to look picture-perfect at all times this season? Bin it. Hot Girl Summer, just like social media, can only ever be a highlights reel and after two unequivocally shit years, we don’t deserve that pressure on ourselves.

Wild thought: what if we used this summer as a chance to reconnect with friends and enjoy new experiences instead? What if, instead of spending way beyond our means on a weeklong, curated Caribbean adventure, we just ordered a couple of pizzas to a friend’s house and laughed our heads off into the wee hours of the night? We won’t remember the clothes we were wearing in 20 years’ time anyway.

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