Thursday, June 16, 2022

The 7 Biggest Swimwear Trends, According To A Trend Forecaster

Between a consistent flow of poolside rosé and beachside vacation pictures at the cornerstone of every IG scroll, it’s hard to not keep swimwear trends top-of-mind —and top-of-shopping list— during the summer season. And while it’s certainly a fun category to indulge in for the all too limited warm-weather months, it can often be an overwhelming one at that: Stressfully sifting through the seemingly endless options on the market for a bathing suit that feels as fashionably forward as comfortable and practical isn’t exactly how you want to kick off your vacation. 

Lucky for me, as a trend forecaster whose job involves “predicting” trends (and sorting through the sea of options) years in advance, I have a head-start on navigating the waters of swimwear; but, this time around, I had another edge that sharpened my shopping skills for the season. I spent the last two months living and working remotely by the beach in Central America.

From the dynamic coasts of Costa Rica to the laidback energy in Lake Atitlan, Guatemala, I observed an array of women from all over the world styling their swimwear. Whether they were ultra-cool surfer girls who aimed for utility with a stylish twist, professional sunbathers soaking up the sun in the tiniest of swim styles with a drink in hand (that’s where you can find me), or fashion insiders finding creative ways to integrate a suit with their everyday looks while strolling the town, watching these trends put into action was the ultimate learning opportunity for narrowing down the best of the best options within the swimwear assortments on the market. 

Ahead, I’ve rounded up the top 2022 swimwear trends that feel of-the-moment, comfortable, and have longevity to make them worth your buy –– and will be a winning option for wherever in the world you’re catching rays this summer.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

Swimsuits With Subtle Shine


Oftentimes patent metallics can feel a bit much, especially if you’re having a low-key trip in a tiny beach town. This season, opt for fabrics with an understated shimmer through lurex or a sheened finish offer; this textured approach to metallics comes off as playful and unexpected without feeling over-the-top. Lean into the look by opting for gold or silver, or put a twist on the trend by testing out a pastel. 

Monday Swimwear St. Barth's One Piece, $, available at Monday Swimwear


Baobab Ola One-Shoulder Bikini Top, $, available at Intermix

Baobab Ola Bikini Bottoms, $, available at Intermix


Swimsuits For All Tie Front Cup Sized Underwire One Piece Swimsuit, $, available at Swimsuits For All


H&M Padded Bikini Top, $, available at H&M

H&M Bikini Bottoms, $, available at H&M

Strappy Swimwear

While an over-abundance of straps can leave unwanted tan lines or be too much in the waves, this is actually one of the most stylish and practical trends on the list. My best advice? Choose an option that keeps you, well, “strapped-in” with primary straps for base support, or give the asymmetrical look a try with a thicker single strap that’s surprisingly secure for your favorite beach activity.

Fashion to Figure Karlee One Shoulder Cutout Bikini Top, $, available at Fashion to Figure

Fashion to Figure Karlee Caged Detail Bikini Brief, $, available at Fashion to Figure


Devon Windsor Gianna One Piece, $, available at Revolve


Janthee Berlin Lizza Top, $, available at Janthee Berlin

Janthee Berlin Leila Bottom, $, available at Janthee Berlin


Farm Rio Ombré Forest Triangle Strappy Bikini Top, $, available at Nordstrom

Lingerie-Inspired Bathing Suits


We’re bringing the bedroom to the beach this season with lingerie-inspired swimwear. If that sounds too sexy for your taste, look to whimsical ruffle trims, sweet bows, and bloomer shorts to execute this trend as well as a palette of pastels and crisp whites.

Gigi Hadid x Frankies Bikinis Lucky Waffle Crop Top, $, available at Frankies Bikinis

Gigi Hadid x Frankies Bikinis Anne Waffle High Waist Bikini Bottom, $, available at Frankies Bikinis


Dkoko Harmony One Piece Saltwater, $, available at Dkoko


Revel Rey Ezra Bikini Top, $, available at Bloomingdale's

Revel Rey Simone Bikini Bottom, $, available at Saks Fifth Avenue


Same Los Angeles Double Layer Top, $, available at Same Los Angeles

Same Los Angeles Double Layer Bottom, $, available at Same Los Angeles

Return Of The String Bikini


When it comes to swimwear, nothing says classic like a string bikini. This tried-and-true style works for just about every swimsuit-required occasion from surfing to sunbathing. This time around, designers are upgrading the style with hardware details, ruching, and eye-catching prints.

Cult Gaia Liana Bikini Top, $, available at Intermix

Cult Gaia Liana Side Tie Bikini Bottoms, $, available at Intermix


VIX SWIMWEAR Ingrid Triangle Bikini Top, $, available at Revolve

VIX SWIMWEAR Ingrid Bikini Bottom, $, available at Revolve


Londré Triangle Top in Desert Snake, $, available at Londré

Londré Ruched Drawstring Bottom in Desert Snake, $, available at Londré


Zara Side Tie Bikini Top, $, available at Zara

Zara Strappy Bikini Bottom, $, available at Zara

Baywatch Bottoms


Okay, now it makes sense why high-cut bottoms à la Baywatch made such a cultural impact: they’re leg-lengthening, ultra-comfortable, and usually a bit higher-waisted than the average bottom –– the ultimate trifecta, no? This style was a clear winner on the beaches I visited in both bikinis and one-pieces. 

Cupshe Madyson Ruched Back Tie Plus Size One Piece Swimsuit, $, available at cupshe


Good American Always Fits Good Waist Cheeky, $, available at Good American


RIOT SWIM Echo One Piece, $, available at Revolve


Miaou Demi One-Piece, $, available at Revolve

A Textured Approach To Swim


This season, there’s been a clear decline in prints as an assortment leader when it comes to swimwear –– and with good reason; it can cause a style to cycle in and out of your closet much quicker than a solid hue. But, fear not, textured fabrics are here to amp up the classic styles. For a more literal approach, terry cloth is a popular choice while seersucker and ribbed fabrications bring a more subtle yet equally interesting spin on an otherwise-simple bikini that will make you want to throw it on again and again all summer long.

Hunza G Seersucker Swimsuit, $, available at Net-A-Porter


Lively The Ruched Plunge Bralette & High Waist Swim Bundle, $, available at Lively


Mango Textured Swimsuit with Crossed Straps, $, available at Mango


Sandshaped Luna Terry Bikini Top Blue, $, available at Sandshaped

Sandshaped Penelope Terry Bikini Briefs Blue, $, available at Sandshaped

Swimming in Sunset Shades


It’s not surprising that the natural beauty of coastal surroundings is the go-to source of inspiration for the swim industry. Mimicking the sunsets, swimwear in rich hues of shades of pigmented pink, electric orange, and golden yellow is another top trend. Blame swimwear’s new obsession with hot pink on the prevalence of the color in summer ready-to-wear collections. 

Beach Riot Nia One Piece, $, available at Revolve


L*Space x Tessa Brooks Nico Bikini Top, $, available at Revolve

L*Space x Tessa Brooks Jay Bitsy Bikini Bottom, $, available at Revolve


Summersalt The Ruffle Backflip, $, available at Summersalt


Solid & Striped The Spencer belted color-block swimsuit, $, available at The Outnet

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The Best Biker Shorts You Can Wear This Summer

Bike shorts caused quite the stir when they returned to the runway (and our Instagram feeds) a few years back, with fashion acolytes all over the world embracing the polarizing athleisure trend. And, while we weren't quite sure of their longevity, it’s now clear that bike shorts are here to stay.

If you ask us, it all started with the insidious creep of leggings-as-pants. We no longer ask ourselves whether or not the body-con bottoms are a truly viable option to wear outside of the gym; with the right styling, the right attitude, and the right pair, the stretchy, clingy pant now gets a resounding yes. Now that warmer weather is rolling around, we’re turning to our leggings’ cropped cousins, the biker short.

What's the trick to translating the gym-going look to the street? Our advice: grab a pair with some length — it's more fashion-forward and makes navigating your shoe selection so much easier. Leggings and heeled sandals? Most likely no. Bike shorts and heeled sandals? Kind of great. Wear with an oversized blazer, a simple hoodie, or with a pretty white blouse, and you're good to go.

Ahead, shop bike shorts from some of our favorite brands, from a throwback neon pair to an itsy-bitsy teeny-weeny option.

At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy or click on something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.

The Bike Short for Yoga


lululemon Align 6” High-Rise Short with Pockets

The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 115 reviews at Lululemon

Cut from the same cloth as lululemon's world-famous, buttery-soft Align fabric, it's no surprise these bike shorts have a fanbase as rabid as their ankle-length counterpart. "I don’t know what to say other than I never want to take these shorts off my body," wrote lululemon reviewer Ester. "They’re sooo flattering and comfortable and stay in place so well!" Even though lululemon is best known for its vast lineup of yoga-related gear, these shorts can handle high-impact activities with flexibility and ease. "Great for higher intensity workouts (I use mine for traditional/functional strength training)," Ester assures. "Did I mention how flattering they are! I'm obsessed."

Lululemon Align™ High-Rise Short with Pockets 6", $, available at Lululemon

Best Ribbed Waistband Bike Short


Vuori Rib Studio Short

The Hype: 4.6 out of 5 stars and 84 reviews at Vuori

Vuori's site filters reveal that this is currently the brand's most sold bike short to date. We have a few hunches surrounding its top-selling status: It has a comfy high waist an an unexpected ribbed texture, there are no side seams (which means it boasts a smooth, airbrushed handfeel all the way around the thigh), and there is a Goldilocks inseam length of 6". Grab this bike short in black, muted navy, or milky pistachio in sizes XXS to XXL.

Vuori Rib Studio Short, $, available at Vuori

Best Classic Bike Short


Adidas Adicolor Classics High-Waisted Primeblue Short Tights

The Hype: 4.8 out of 5 stars and 156 reviews (standard) & 4.8 out of 5 stars and 64 reviews (plus) at Adidas

A biker short with Adidas' trademark three stripes running down the sides? You can't get any more classic than that. And, at only $35 a pop, this beloved style remains one of adidas' most hyped styles ever. "Absolutely love these! Love that they are not low rise. Us plus girls need a little extra material in front. Lol. I feel confident when I work out in these!" wrote one reviewer who bought one of the extended 1X-4X sizes. "I love this set — it’s very comfortable and machine washable," wrote another reviewer whose only complaints are that these get a bit lint-y and that they don't come in enough colors.

Adidas Adicolor Classics High-Waisted Primeblue Short Tights (Plus Size), $, available at Adidas

The Best Micro Bike Short


FP Movement Good Karma Running Shorts

The Hype: 4.3 out of 5 stars and 231 reviews at Free People

By far the best-selling bike short from Free People's FP Movement activewear line is this micro number, available in 24 ogle-worthy colors in sizes XS/S to L/XL. "These actually DO NOT ride up?!" wrote one happily flummoxed reviewer, despite the short's 2.75" inseam. "I'm sure it depends on your body shape [but it's the] first style I can wear under run shorts that keep me in place. LOVE! Lululemon wishes!" they wrote. Other reviewers, ranging from weight lifters to long-distance runners swear by these non-chafing shorts. "They are not my favorite for squats; I've found the crotch moves back and forth with my butt, [but] I do wear these for cardio and classes and for lounging — they are a go-to!" wrote an avid cross-trainer.

FP Movement Good Karma Running Shorts, $, available at Free People

Best Affordable Bike Shorts


X by Gottex Active Biker Shorts

The Hype: 4.7 out of 5 stars and 65 reviews at Nordstrom Rack

We get it — bike shorts aren't for everyone. If you're one of those people who are slightly sus but still curious about these bodycon shorts, a great way to shimmy into the trend is by grabbing a low-stakes pair for under $20. Nordstrom Rack has a whole stash of these stylish skimmies at freshly-cut price points. The highest-rated pair is awarded to X by Gottex — available in five colorways and/or prints — with one reviewer raving, "Very comfortable and soft [...] my body is more of a pear shape. Feels like butter!!" Another bike-tights fan whose previous pair had grown “old and tattered” from overuse rejoiced: “Hooray for the biker shorts comeback! I'm loving my new [ones]. They fit nicely and are perfect for casual activities now that the weather is warmer.”

X by Gottex Active Biker Shorts, $, available at Nordstrom Rack

The Best Smoothing Bike Short


Skims Fits Everybody Bike Short

The Hype: 4 out of 5 stars and 103 reviews at Skims

This pair of bike shorts from Skims are designed to be comfortable enough to wear all day as a base layer under any look. One reviewer raves that they feel like smooth butter on her skin. "I love these bike shorts and I’m normally not too big of a fan of bike shorts. They are super soft and thin and not compressive or tight at all, but still super flattering. They feel like a high quality pantyhose and I’m here for it." wrote reviewer Kristie.

Skims Fits Everybody Bike Short, $, available at Skims

The Best Organic Cotton Bike Short


PACT Ribbed Bike Short

The Hype: 4.7 out of 5 stars and 55 reviews at Pact

Most of the bike shorts in this roundup are specifically made for sweaty workouts — but these, from sustainable lifestyle brand Pact, have found their way into the loungewear closets of many reviewers. A super soft, stretchy ribbed texture made from 89% organic cotton? Say no more. These could very well be worn as PJs — that's how comfy the blend is. "I found my bike shorts to be super lightweight and cozy to wear for long days working from home!" wrote reviewer Meg J. "The ribbed cotton material is so soft and comfortable around my waist. As we're transitioning into warmer months, I wanted something that wasn't sweatpants, that I felt like I could wear all day at my desk, and also feel excited to wear if I need to run out for an errand or mid day stroll. These are perfect for all of the above!"

PACT ribbed bike short, $, available at PACT

The Best High-Rise Bike Short


Girlfriend Collective High-Rise Bike Short

The Hype: 5 out of 5 stars and 5,503 reviews at Girlfriend Collective

Made from the same compressive, plastic-recycled material as Girlfriend Collective's all-time best-selling legging, these bike shorts — and their thigh-covering 8.5" inseam — are made to hold you in, no matter what kind of activity you're up against. "These are a true high waist and I have a short torso so they come right up to my rib cage," wrote reviewer Emily M. "They do show sweat which doesn’t bother me but if it bothers you, go for a darker color," they added. Luckily for shoppers, there's a variety of color options — currently, six “core” hues and four seasonal shades.

Girlfriend Matcha High-Rise Bike Short, $, available at Girlfriend

Best "New" Bike Short


YPB 7" Bike Shorts

The Hype: 4.4 out of 5 stars and 14 reviews at Abercrombie & Fitch

Abercrombie & Fitch debuted its new activewear line, YPB, on March 16 and it's already ranking a near-perfect five stars. "Great quality product! I am 5’3, and 6 inch biker shorts [are] too short and 8 inches [are] too long so this one’s perfect. I like that the glute seams in the back sit at the right spot," wrote one reviewer who is particular about the inseam length. If you, too, are looking for a sweet spot in terms of a bike short that neither reveals nor covers too much, this YPB pair is a sure bet.

YPB Active 7" Bike Shorts, $, available at Abercrombie and Fitch

Best Compression Bike Short


Alo High-Waist Biker Short

The Hype: 4.6 out of 5 stars and 1,166 reviews at Alo Yoga

"My main workout is on a popular bike. I reside in a very hot climate area so these fit all my needs," wrote reviewer Theresa B. "Right length, sweat-wicking, just the right amount of compression and a flattering fit. This is my second pair of these shorts — love that they come in so many color choices," they wrote. While many bike shorts are worn for non-cycling activities, it's reassuring to know that this pair is lauded by actual bikers. High-waisted and falling mid-thigh, these skimmies are offered in a whole array of Easter-y brights in sizes XXS to L.

Alo Yoga High-Waist Biker Short, $, available at Alo Yoga

Best Bike Short with Pockets


Athleta Ultimate Stash Pocket 5" Short

The Hype: 4.5 out of 5 stars and 927 reviews at Athleta

As our fashion writer Chichi Offor has attested, everyone is sleeping on Athleta activewear as one of the best destinations for solid workout gear. Take, for instance, this popular high-waisted bike short that's made for mid- to high-impact activities and boasts not one, not two, but three (!) pockets. "I love these shorts for working out. I travel with them for quick runs/work outs on vacation. They are easy to pack and take up minimal space," wrote reviewer Christina F. "The pockets are perfect for a phone, keys, credit card which [lets] me be hands-free when I use them."

Athleta Salutation Stash Pocket II 5" Short, $, available at Athleta

Best Non-Compressive Bike Short


Outdoor Voices Move Free 6" Short

The Hype: 4.6 out of 5 stars and 64 reviews at Outdoor Voices

There's a time and place for compressive shorts — but sometimes all you're looking for is an unrestricted style that allows you to move freely. That's the whole concept behind this style, which are stretchy, lightweight, and flexible, made from the brand's peachiest-soft fabric. These bike shorts are a hot seller, especially amongst shoppers with thicker thighs. "LOVE LOVE LOVE! My second skin, my go-to short, my breathable beauty. Have these in multiple colors and will die in these. That’s all!" wrote reviewer Elyse. Another reviewer, Tiffany, lauds the shorts' style factor: "I look like Princess Diana leaving the gym, just give me a Harvard sweatshirt."

Outdoor Voices Move Free 6" Short, $, available at Outdoor Voices

Best Y2K Bike Short


BDG Lola Printed Bike Short

As we all know, Urban Outfitters is the destination for throwback '90s styles — and this obviously includes printed bike shorts that are remincient of what we wore as wee ones. This time, however, bike shorts emblazoned with abstract graphics or daisy motifs are fitted for our adult-sized bodies. We totally see ourselves wearing these springtime shorts with a white button-up and loafers, or even underneath a too-short sun dress as, you know, a safety layer.

BDG Lola Printed Bike Short, $, available at Urban Outfitters

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Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Kim Kardashian’s Met Gala Dress Alarmed Experts. Turns Out, They Were Right

When Kim Kardashian walked up the Metropolitan Museum’s stairs at this year’s Met Gala wearing Marilyn Monroe’s famed Jean Louis dress from 1962, it sparked its share of controversy. Not only was the dress, which she’d borrowed from Ripley’s Believe Or Not!, not in line with the gala’s theme of “Gilded Glamour,” but Kardashian also revealed she lost 16 pounds in three weeks to fit into the dress. This week, she made headlines again when post-Met Gala photos of the dress revealed new tears in the back and on the straps, as well as missing and damaged crystals. While Kardashian chose to celebrate one of American fashion’s most iconic moments, it seemingly ignored what textile conservators have warned over decades: taking historical pieces out for a spin is a big risk.

“I was really disappointed that this garment, which is iconic and, although it’s owned by Ripley’s, is still held in the public trust,” says Sarah Scaturro, a chief conservator at the Cleveland Museum of Art and former conservator at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, referring to the significance of the dress in American history.

Kardashian was aware of the high stakes of wearing a piece of history, which Monroe sported during her “Happy Birthday” performance for President John F. Kennedy in 1962. In an interview with Vogue she said that was never alone with the dress: “The dress was transported by guards, and I had to wear gloves to try it on.” According to her, she only wore it to walk from the bottom to the top of the stairs and changed into a replica once inside the museum.

Yet, such care wasn’t enough. Photos displaying the damage to the dress were published by Scott Fortner’s Marilyn Monroe Collection on Instagram, with the caption: “Was it worth it?” (Refinery29 requested a comment from Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! and Kim Kardashian but has not heard back at the time of publication.) According to Laura Beltrán-Rubio, a fashion curator and the co-founder of Latin American fashion platform, Culturas de Moda, following damage of this magnitude, a historical garment like Monroe’s, which was custom-made and worn only on one occasion, “loses all history.” 

And, when worn to an event like the Met Gala, an event that’s supposed to celebrate the importance of costume conservation, the incident could set a damaging precedent for conservators and archivists. “Historically, fashion curators, conservators, and archivists have often been pressured to have people wear clothing from these collections,” says Scutarro. “This is something that curators and conservators have really challenged a lot over the years.” She points out that it was only after institutions started noticing damage on historical pieces that costume conservatorship was solidified through organizations like Costume Society of America (CSA) and the International Committee for Museums and Collections of Costume, Fashion and Textiles (ICOM). “We were able as a profession to to minimize the wearing and to try to just stop it,” she says. Despite the fact that experts like Scaturro and Beltrán-Rubio “facilitate the public’s access to cultural heritage,” there are many misconceptions about the importance of conserving fashion, because it’s a relatively new profession that, according to Scaturro, is often seen as less for its ties to consumerism and women. 

“There are rules that dictate that once a garment is in a museum, it can’t be worn again,” Beltrán-Rubio says, adding that textiles — which are often stored in controlled environments with customized lighting and humidity levels  — are very delicate, causing them to chemically react to a body’s odor, texture, and sweat. “This is how clothes eventually wear out.” 

Kardashian is far from the first celebrity to have worn an archived dress for a red carpet, though. Lily Rose-Depp wore a ’90s Chanel dress to the 2019 Met Gala and Cardi B sported a 1995 Mugler gown to the 2019 Grammy Awards. Most recently, Zendaya donned a 1998 Bob Mackie dress to the 2022 Time 100 Gala. While these garments are not in the same category as Monroe’s dress, which is 50 years old and custom-made — most of them were sourced from the brands’ runway archives — Sacturro says this phenomenon also illustrates the challenge archivists and curators have to meet demands from brands, stylists, and celebrities for decades-old garments to be worn. “Fashion archivists [inside design houses] are in a really difficult position to balance how to protect these garments so they can be used by the design house, while letting them be used,” she says. “These archives consist of historic clothing from the design house and they’re really seen as an asset that is meant to be monetized.”

While most museums and conservators would not allow for a dress of historical significance like Monroe’s to be worn outside of a controlled environment, Scaturro says that there are instances where conservators must consider taking costumes out of an archive, specifically when it comes to objects taken from other cultures and communities. “We aim to do no harm to our material objects, but we also aim to do no harm to the stakeholders of those objects… We do facilitate the wearing of clothing when a stakeholder is appropriate,” she says. “This is a really important point when we start discussing and working with garments that are held in museum collections that belong to originating source communities and were stolen from them.” 

This issue came to light following Kardashian’s appearance at the Met Gala, when the ICOM released a statement condemning her choice to wear Monroe’s dress, saying, “Historic garments should not be worn by anybody, public or private figures.” The statement was received with much backlash by organizations such as Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum, whose Māori curator Puawai Cairns called the ICOM’s criticism “Eurocentric.” “Some textiles in museums should be worn if they are of use in ritual ceremonies or continuing the connections between object and kin,” Cairns wrote in a post. “Conservation is increasingly about becoming the bridge to enable that to happen, not the block. Good Ol’ ICOM. Only thinking of its own eurocentric cultural bubble.” (ICOM has since retracted its statement and issued an apology.)

For Scaturro, this is where the nuances of what conservators call “people-based conservation” come in: “There are cases where the wearing of historic clothing is actually the most ethical way forward,” adds Scaturro, referring to Cairns’ comments. Yet, in Kardashian’s case, she says: “My opinion is that the two stakeholders are the public and Marilyn. Marilyn is dead, so we don’t know what she would have thought, but the public is here and the public is voicing their opinion.”

For both Scaturro and Beltrán-Rubio, the lesson for the industry and conservators is to tread carefully, but also use opportunities to make costume and fashion conservation more visible. “This is a moment to talk about this issue and make it easier for people to understand the importance of costume curation,” says Beltrán-Rubio.

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How To Wear Bloomers, This Season’s Lingerie-Inspired — & Grandma-Approved — Trend

In Season 4, Episode 18 of the popular ‘90s television show Friends, Jennifer Aniston’s always stylish character, Rachel Green, unexpectedly meets her boyfriend’s parents wearing a lace-trimmed negligee intended for an intimate date night at home. She then spends the evening trying to pass her undergarments off as the “next big thing in fashion.” She wasn’t exactly wrong. Two decades later, donning lingerie-as-outerwear is not only quite common but it’s encouraged. Slip dresses have become a year-round style staple, while corsets, bustier tops, and girdle skirts make their rounds among the style set. Now, thanks to the industry’s penchant for nostalgia, there’s a new intimates-inspired trend on the docket that’s set to be everywhere in the next six months: bloomers. 

Hear us out. Yes, in a literal sense, the blousy bottoms could feel a bit dated. With early origins in Asia and Turkey, they served as an essential part of the Western ensembles in the early 19th century, worn underneath caged skirts. It wasn’t until the American Suffrage Movement, when women began trading their long dresses for bloomer pants (that got their name from women’s rights advocate Amelia Bloomer) in protest, that the item appeared in public. Today, fashion brands continue to put their own spin on the top-drawer style. 

Oscar de la Renta presented a romantic pink satin pair in his spring 2001 collection, while just last month Alessandro Michele sent a lime-colored micro mini pair down Gucci’s Cosmogonie runway with a faux fur cape and leather motorcycle gloves. Then there was the billowy knee-length pair that made an appearance in Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2023 lineup just days before. Nensi Dojaka’s sheer biker-short pair have a more updated feel while Anna Sui revived her retro boudoir silhouettes from the ‘90s with a pair of loose-fitting slip shorts, offering the best of both lingerie-inspired trends for the new season. 

Off the catwalk, the style has proven to be just as popular. Indie label with a cult following thanks to its viral Fairy Dress, Mirror Palais debuted an iteration with a distinct vintage feel for Spring 2022. Complete with flouted hemlines and ribbon details, the lightweight poplin pair has all the key characteristics of traditional pairs — without any of the outdated feel.

“Fashion history is something that I’m very invested in, and it informs how I design,” Marcelo Gaia, founder of the buzzy label, says. “So making the decision to show a 19th-century pantalette in this collection felt very natural. The pair that I designed is just a remake of an authentic vintage pair of [bloomers,] and we didn’t complicate it any further. We kept it very pure and almost, like, historically accurate. But we really made it feel modern with the styling.”

To accomplish that, the designer sourced through Toots Vintage while asking himself, How would Carrie Bradshaw wear 19th-century undergarments? The answer? With heels, of course. “It’s the kind of piece that evokes fantasy and makes people feel like they’ve been transported through time,” he explains on the overwhelming response from his customer base since the style’s release. “It’s exciting to see how [customers] are going to reinterpret fashion from the last hundred years.”   

For most luxury lingerie brands, vintage silhouettes live at the core of their brand DNA. Years ago Kiki de Montparnasse teamed up with Caroline Vreeland on a collection of sheer silk-embroidered bloomers, while the likes of Fleur du Mal and Agent Provocateur have produced some versions of the style over the years, many of which have a more bedroom feel but could still be worn as ready-to-wear with the right accompaniments.

“Nowadays, there’s very little that hasn’t been done before in the lingerie world,” Sarah Shotton, creative director of Agent Provocateur, says. “Looking back at lingerie styles past and spinning them on their head and moving it forward in a modern way is always very exciting for my team and me. I particularly love deconstruction and looking at the beauty of the craftsmanship of vintage or antique pieces.” 

According to Gaia and Shotton, the secret to pulling off the look today is to pay attention to proportions and fabrics. “Find bloomers with a fitted waist, floaty around the bottom and then nipped back in with a frill around the top of the thigh. For a more modern look, try French knickers and tap pants which look great with a corset or a cami top — they keep the spirit of the original bloomers but with an up-to-date attitude,” says Shotton. “Luxurious fabrics like silk or a light tulle help keep things comfy and make you feel fabulous.”

But ultimately, like with any retro fad, Gaia urges shoppers to go the secondhand route, whenever possible. “As a brand, we are big supporters of [buying] vintage, and we tell our customers that if our pieces are out of your price range but you want to embrace a micro trend and they have your size, I would encourage you to check out Etsy or Depop as alternatives.” 

If you aren’t ready to wear lingerie in public, Shotton suggests wearing the style under a tailored suit jacket or with a classic white shirt: “Fresh white cotton looks great over bloomers, with a pretty bra peeking through, but it doesn’t feel too extreme,” she says. “Make it look intentional, and you’ll be able to carry it off.”

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