Tuesday, July 18, 2023

The Best Outfits At Beyoncé’s Renaissance Tour Are A “Disco Cowgirl” Dream

Since Beyoncé dropped her highly-anticipated album Renaissance in July 2022, fans have eagerly awaited to celebrate along with the Grammy winner live at a concert. Yet, as with all things Beyoncé — whose knack for fashion has involved collaborations with Balmain, her own line with Adidas, and pop culture-defining red carpet moments — the stakes are high when it comes to Renaissance tour style.

Even more so because, up until the tour kicked off in Stockholm in May, fans had not been able to experience the aesthetic world of Renaissance. Unlike Beyoncé’s past albums, which were released alongside music videos, the singer has only dropped a video teaser for her song “I’m That Girl,” as well as the album cover, showing the star covered in rhinestones while sitting on a shining silver horse. 

Without visuals, Renaissance tour attendees were left to seek inspiration from the album’s lyrics, sounds (which include house, reggaeton, and R&B among others), and references. Over the past few weeks, the world got a to see how those transferred to real life. “Rhinestones, pearls, latex, shimmer suits, fans,” Mercedes Arielle, a Dallas-based creator who attended the first night of the Sweden stop, tells Refinery29 of the outfits she saw from the crowd. “People were like ‘We don’t need visuals, we can create our own.’”

A love letter to ballroom culture and queer expression, Beyoncé’s seventh studio album finds itself at a unique crux of nostalgia and futurism that celebrates icons like Grace Jones and the ballroom commentator Kevin JZ Prodigy. While keeping this in mind, people on TikTok had debated for months what to wear to the tour. The search term “renaissance tour outfits” has grown to nearly 4 billion views on the app, with videos varying from reference images to get inspired for the concert to shopping hauls of silver metallic fashion — referencing the Renaissance cover art — and original creations made for the tour. 

Fashion designer and the owner of the label Syckny Kayla Monroe, who is attending Beyoncé’s concert at New Jersey’s MetLife stadium, showed off a metallic breastplate she created inspired by the “I’m That Girl” video teaser, which featured Beyoncé wearing a similar bodysuit and knee-high boots. “I wanted to turn it into an ‘Alien Superstar’ kind of look,” says Monroe. The futuristic top, decorated with intricate rhinestone detailing along the chest and the bodice, nods to the song’s line “feed you diamonds and pearls.” It took the designer a total of 14 hours to make. Well, that’s 196 hours, if you count the other 13 orders she got from her TikTok video.

“I think that’s what made me more excited for the concert,” she says. “At first, I only made it for myself but [then] I said ‘You know what? I want to see everybody else enjoy this piece.” 

While many of the show’s attendees are similarly wearing silver metallic pieces, from mini dresses styled with opera gloves to rhinestone-covered body chains and tinsel-embellished capes — prompting a spike of 488% in searches for “metallic cowboy boots” on Google — others have gone for the cowboy inspiration. The latter was no doubt prompted by the announcement photo for the tour, in which Beyoncé wore a disco ball-inspired cowboy hat from Etsy designer Abby Misbin.

Seattle-based fan Alliya Bojador, who traveled to Stockholm to see the opening show, made her own cowboy hat, using mosaic mirror tiles to decorate a plain Western style. “The original hat was a bit pricey, and it felt good to tell people I made it when they complimented it,” says Bojador, who paired the look with matching cowboy boots, a jeweled crop top, and a black skirt with rhinestone fringe. “I found that it [the tour announcement photo] was enough inspiration for me,” she says, adding that she wanted to look like a “disco cowgirl.” Similarly, Charmaine Goodwin opted to make her own hat for the tour. “I love that aspect of Beyoncé being from Texas and that Black cowgirl style coming into play,” says Goodwin, who is attending the Los Angeles show in September.

Meanwhile, longtime Beyoncé fan Arielle was inspired by the club aesthetic, describing her outfit as “disco-meets-Barbie loofah.” This translated into a pink ruffled bolero worn over a silver tank top and jeans featuring rhinestone embellished cut-outs, topped off with a metallic glasses-like accessory with rhinestone fringe. “I love bling but I wanted to do it in a less expected way,” she says. “I went more dressed down with denim.”

As the tour continues, Arielle says that she’s intrigued to see how other fans recreate the Renaissance aesthetic now that some of Beyoncé’s looks —which include custom Loewe, Balmain, and Alexander McQueen shimmering bodysuits, tailored suits, and metallic cargo pants and are styled by Shiona Turini— have been revealed.

“She has a fan base who relies on her for that curated aesthetic,” she says. “I know the Beyhive is going to be all over those [outfits next].”

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Inside The Anti-High Fashion Show Making Puerto Rico’s Style Scene More Inclusive

The sun almost set in Caguas, a town in Central Puerto Rico, when the second annual Paseo Pasarela, a fashion show highlighting local designers, began. But while a typical runway would involve seating assignments, sponsored goodie bags, and elaborate venues, the setting for this fashion show is more representative of the aftermath of a decades-long financial crisis and consecutive natural disasters in Puerto Rico: A makeshift runway in the center of town’s plaza, surrounded by permanently closed storefronts (like El Telar, the textile shop my mom and I used to visit every Saturday when I was growing) and abandoned buildings — relics of a once-booming town. 

“It’s so difficult to be a fashion designer in Puerto Rico right now,” says Cristina Nuñez, founder of Paseo Pasarela. “Costs are skyrocketing and we can only do so much.”

As the sun waved goodbye in Caguas, I saw upcycled pieces styled in an androgynous aesthetic, from designer Crystal Vélez’s brand Crystla. Lechat Costumier, designed by Daniela Fabrizi, showcased genderless and modular pants with peeking boxers, paired with feather tops and tiny bikinis. Bon Múdez presented a collection that commented on cultural appropriation and colonialism in Puerto Rico’s history that ended with a top-and-skirt combo that resembled the island’s flag. 

But it wasn’t just about the clothes. The show also featured a diverse set of models, most notably trans model, rapper, and makeup artist Gabriel Josué. Designers also made statements via their music choices, which varied from “Fuega” by rising Puerto Rican rapper RaiNao — a sultry track that features the sound of the güiro, an autochthonous percussion instrument — to “Donde nadie más respira” by ILe, a politically-charged song that narrates how colonialism is hurting Puerto Ricans. 

Since 2019, Paseo Pasarela has given a platform to local fashion designers, providing an annual show to display their collections. It’s also opening the doors for attendees to enjoy fashion, no matter their background, class, or connections; anyone could show up at the town’s plaza to see the show that’s free of fancy dress codes or VIP seating. Afterward, people could stop by the Paseo Pasarela bazaar to shop from the designers featured, giving customers the opportunity to learn more about talent that’s often overlooked even on the island. “It’s very important to me to have that level of accessibility,” says Nuñez. 

The idea for an all-are-welcome runway event started when Nuñez was studying fashion design at the Universidad del Turabo, where she worked on a capstone project that proposed a fashion show focused on sustainability and inclusivity. (To qualify for Paseo Pasarela, designers must work within streetwear or ready-to-wear and focus on inclusivity and sustainability.)

“Fashion was one of the pioneering industries in Puerto Rico, and it has [since] decayed for political and economic reasons,” she says. “I realized there was a need for a space for emerging designers and innovative ideas.” Driven by that, she also wanted to create a space that was different from the gatekeeping fashion events she had worked in years before: “I never felt comfortable, I was looked down upon.” Furthermore, Nuñez says that the styles weren’t reflective of the everyday wardrobes of most people. “It was prom dresses, gala dresses, and I just felt like that wasn’t my reality,” she says. “[I thought,] How can we take local fashion to a more creative ready-to-wear level?”

By hosting Paseo Pasarela, Nuñez is widening the visibility for designers that have likewise felt excluded from fashion spaces and often lack the resources to put together a fashion show. So far, Paseo Pasarela’s judging panel has evaluated the works of over 100 designers, choosing 20 to showcase at the event. While the lineup focuses on emerging talent, it has also invited more established Puerto Rican designers to participate, including Amanda Forastieri, a Supima Award-winning designer; Nasheli Juliana, a Philadelphia-based former contestant on Netflix’s Next in Fashion; and Héctor Omar, a once-Project Runway contestant. 

With the success of its two first installments, Nuñez says that her goal is to take the show on a tour around the island. “Our mission is to democratize fashion and to take it out of the metro area,” she says. But, ultimately, it’s about creating opportunities and sharing resources for designers to be able to work in Puerto Rico: “I want to establish a community that can back itself.”

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Nicole Byer Wants To See You In A Bikini — From Her Kitty And Vibe Swim Collab

Nicole Byer is many things: an actor, an author, a comic, a podcaster, a historic Emmy winner, and an expert judge of amateur baking, just to name a few. Now, she’s adding another accomplishment to the list: swimwear designer. Launching on July 18, the Nicole Byer x Kitty and Vibe collaboration consists of 12 pieces in three different prints (or “vibes,” in KV parlance). 

For the Nailed It! host, swimwear was a natural choice for a collaboration, given how her relationship with bathing suits was a big part of learning to love her body (it’s even in her memoir’s title: #VeryFat #VeryBrave: The Fat Girl’s Guide to Being #Brave and Not a Dejected, Melancholy, Down-in-the-Dumps Weeping Fat Girl in a Bikini). “A bathing suit is a thing that’s near and dear to my heart. I spent years not really swimming or wearing bathing suits because I was like, Nobody wants to see this,” she tells Refinery29. “And then I realized, my body is not for other people’s consumption. It’s for me, and it’s also a beautiful body… I got to a point where I was like, I love my body, and I love it in a bathing suit.” 

With the collaboration, Byer hopes to enable other women to have this lightbulb moment: “I would love for women to be like, Oh, I can wear the same bathing suit as my friend, because this [size] range is so inclusive. Or, Yeah, I look cute. I look good. I just think we should all love the bodies we’re in.”

With cheeky banana and parrot prints, along with a cool textured palm motif in black, and swim styles ranging from deep plunge bikinis to cut-out one-pieces, the collaboration has something for everyone. And Kitty and Vibe’s new extended size range makes it more inclusive than ever, with the Nicole Byer collection available in sizes xs to 6x (the brand previously went up to 3x). 

Scroll down to learn what Byer has to say about the collection, the unexpected style inspirations behind it, and navigating fashion and body image as a plus-size woman.

While this collection is your first foray into swim design, it’s not the first time you’ve addressed the topic of wearing a bikini. You coined #VeryFat #VeryBrave hashtags; what moved you to first use them?
Me and my friend Marcy were going to Palm Springs… I said “I’m only wearing bikinis this weekend. And people can look all they want, and I’ll yell at them that ‘I’m very fat and very brave!’ And I‘ll hashtag all my photos with that!” Then we laughed really hard. 

When I went to post [those photos], I was like maybe I will just hashtag it “very fat, very brave.” And then I did. I don’t need to read about how you’re worried about my health and how I would look better if I was just smaller, or how fat I am. Do you think that fat people don’t know that they’re fat? There are mirrors everywhere in this world. I’m well aware of what I look like. If I want to change it, there are means for me to but, as of now, I like the body that I’m in, and I’m happy to wear a bathing suit that’s a two-piece because honestly, it’s easier to pee.

How did the Kitty and Vibe collaboration come about?
They came to me and asked, “Would you be interested in doing a collaboration?” And I said, “Yes, yes, I would. I love bathing suits, and I love that your range is super inclusive.” And I liked that they were expanding it to 6x. I just thought that was really special.

How would you describe your personal aesthetic? 
I wear a lot of vintage stuff. I’ve always liked bright colors and form-fitting things, but as I get older, I’m like, Why don’t you just like wear the belly shirt? Show off your arms. It’s hot outside; wear shorts. I think it just evolved to me wearing exactly what I want, all the time, as opposed to what I think people want to see me in because that’s a weird way to live your life. Living your life in a way that’s like, Will people accept what I’m doing? Like who gives a shit if they accept what you’re doing? Be comfortable, wear exactly what you want to wear.

How did your aesthetic fit into the Kitty and Vibe collaboration?Someone [at Kitty and Vibe asked,] “What are you into?” And I responded, “I don’t know, the older I get, the more I love a bird.” So we’ve got this fabulous parrot print that is just so vibrant and full of color and pretty. 

And then another print is bananas. I have a painting of a banana in my house that’s pixelated because I like phallic things. Take it how you want it! Very tongue-in-cheek. And it is also a cheetah print, because I love cheetah print. But it’s just fun. I think my whole thing is I don’t really take shit seriously. I just love prints and colors and silly shit. Like my favorite shoes right now are heeled Skechers that I once had in my youth. The [brand] reissued them, and I was like, “Let me buy two pairs!” I think fashion should be fun. 

What’s one of the weirdest places you’ve ever gotten fashion inspiration from?
My Crest White toothpaste tube, for the Emmys. I went to my stylist Marko [Monroe], and said, “I really want to wear blues.” And he was like, “What [kind of] blues?” I said, “The blues on my Crest toothpaste tube.” And we both laughed about it, and then he responded, “Nicole that’s exactly what I was thinking.” He showed me the color selection he was thinking of, and I was like, “That’s fucking wild. You went to a fashion show and got [this] inspiration, and I was like, ‘Toothpaste??’” 

I know firsthand the frustration of not being included when it comes to fashion. Have your on-set wardrobe experiences gotten better over the years?
I think it’s gotten worse! I was recently on a job where I cried multiple days because I was like, “You’re not bringing clothes that fit me!” We didn’t do any fittings. You have to fit something on a plus-sized body. You might have to take it in. I don’t have a “traditional” plus-sized body. If you ever buy a vintage set, it’s usually bigger on top, smaller on bottom, and I’m the opposite.

Nothing was fitted to me. Everyone else on set looked fine, and I didn’t even know we had a tailor until the second to last day. It’s really hard, and you have to continuously advocate for yourself. You have to look a [costume designer] in the eye and be like, “The clothes you’re bringing me don’t fit me and you’re making me feel bad about my body.”

I will say, there are other people, like the costume designer on Nailed It!, she’s really incredible and she found different brands that I didn’t even know of. So there are people out there who are cognizant and care and get a tailor and make custom things. But then for every person like that, there are like six people who don’t give a shit.

What makes you most excited about the Kitty and Vibe collab being out in the world?
For people to see the bathing suits and wear them and take pictures. It’s gonna be very cool when people buy them and take pictures and hashtag and tag me in them. I can’t wait for that!

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

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Monday, July 17, 2023

3 Ways To Wear Red — 2023’s Top Color Trend— This Summer

Theory, Fall 2023, New York, Feb 9, 2023

Last Fashion Month, it was hard to attend a fashion show or presentation that didn’t include the color red. Day after day, it became clear that the shade was becoming the top color trend for 2023. 

Still, it was hard to imagine a world in which people would be open to styling red in their everyday lives. A notoriously hard-to-pull-off color that is often linked to intense feelings of passion and anger, as well as crime scenes and cheesy Valentine’s Day merchandise, red has long been embraced by pop culture as a color that’s worn to symbolize a deeper meaning. It was a color that Sex and the City’s Samantha Jones, known for her disdain toward monogamous relationships and fiery approach to sexuality, often wore throughout the series. It’s also the signature shade of Spanish director Pedro Almodovar’s filmography, often associated with death, passion, and pain in movies like Volver and Julieta. 

JASON WU FW23 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 02/12/2023 GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM
Puppets and Puppets, Fall 2023, New York, Feb 12 2023

Yet, for the fall/winter 2023 collections, designers casually embedded red into their lineups, displaying it with the ease usually granted to blue jeans or white tank tops. Proenza Schouler featured a red A-line leather strapless maxi dress in their collection, shown alongside pieces like blazers and tailored shirts in a mostly somber palette. Theory went for a similar approach, showing head-to-toe monochrome red looks that were literally created as a working woman’s uniform. Other designers like Sandy Liang, Jason Wu, and Alejandra Alonso Rojas also delicately introduced the color in their lineups, without any passion-related gimmicks or ominous symbolism. Even if the Puppets & Puppets’ Carly Mark took inspiration from the 1988 thriller Dead Ringers, the use of red in flower pasties, phone-handle handbags, and sequined dresses, was more whimsical than tragic. 

It’s clear designers are making it easier for people to introduce red to their wardrobes, from handbags and dresses, to shoes and monochrome suits. If the runways still don’t convince you, here’s how the Refinery29 team styles red — their way. 

How to style red: go monochrome

“While a week ago, this neutrals-loving minimalist went on the record to say that she would never wear a red pantsuit or dress, I ate my words when, a few days later, I tried this vest-and-pants set after seeing it on a Banana Republic mannequin in-store. Thanks to the oversized fit, the suit is effortless enough to wear all summer and mix and match with other separates, while the punchy red color keeps it from looking boring.” — Irina Grechko, fashion director

How to style red: let the accessories do the work

“Ask anyone who knows me — bold colors are not my thing. But there’s something about red that has long enthused me, and last year, I decided to add a big scarlet pop to my wardrobe with this Prada Cleo bag. To my surprise, months later, it ended up being one of the defining colors of fashion trends for 2023, pushing me to add this pair of heart-shaped heels to my closet. I’ve worn the red bag with everything from a classic white shirt and jeans to a bikercore-inspired outfit for nights out, a testament to the versatility of red. But this black-and-red outfit combo is my favorite for date nights. While I’m still waiting for the color to catch on to other categories in my wardrobe, I think starting with accessories — be it handbags, socks, shoes, or jewelry — is a great way to start off with such a bold color.” — Frances Solá-Santiago, fashion writer

How to style red: just add socks

“My favorite place to wear red is on my lips, so when adding red to my outfits, I like it to have a similar small but bold pop. I love how a loud sock can really brighten a look, and this pair from Happy Socks does exactly that. To pull it together, I added a black oversized open button down with small pops of red to keep the look consistent from head to toe.” — Hannah Rimm, senior editor, Money Diaries

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