Monday, May 5, 2025

Nostalgic Plushie Bag Charms & Labubus Are Trending — Fans Explain Why

“Ugly-cute.” “A sense of nostalgia.” “A gremlin on LSD.” “Either you get it or you don’t.” There’s no denying the global cult following that plushie bag charms, and the TikTok-viral Labubu, have garnered — and these are just some of the standout responses fans and collectors shared with me when discussing the trend.

Personalization has made a major comeback, and handbag straps heavily adorned with bag charms are one of the easiest and most joyful ways to customize our everyday pieces. But rather than luxury charms from Loewe, Prada, and Gucci, furry animal-like plushies (like Monchhichi, Miffy, Hello Kitty, and Crybaby) are the hot style, with Labubu being the most viral, coveted plushie charm you can own right now.

I’m talking about the furry, wide-grinning creatures — aka The Monsters — designed by Hong Kong-born illustrator Kasing Lung. Originally a book series character, Labubu became a physical plushie when toy company Pop Mart created them in 2019. They’re sold as limited-edition “blind box” collections (like Macaron and Angel In Clouds) both online and in Pop Mart stores, so you can never be sure the exact design you’re going to get. “It’s like an accessible lottery ticket. You know you’re gonna win, and it’s gonna be cute,” says Cameron Tarzaban, who works in the cannabis industry. (However, some fans search for specific styles on StockX and eBay to secure the exact design they want.)

But how and why did they get so popular? What’s their appeal? After seeing a London-based artist wearing an orange Monchhichi charm on her tweed Chanel bag, I knew I needed to investigate this quirky high-low trend. So I spoke with several avid plushie collectors (including Labubu loyalists) and bag charm lovers to learn more.

Most interviewees (ranging between Gen Z and millennial in age) discovered Labubus around springtime 2024, seeing them in TikTok unboxings and hauls or being toted around by pop megastars. “People like Lisa and Rihanna — people who are pop culture phenoms and very well-dressed celebrities — having their co-sign obviously is going to make things cool,” says New York-based beauty and style writer Tayler Adigun, who happily got the same pink Lychee Berry style that Rihanna was pictured wearing on her Louis Vuitton Soft Speedy bag.

Social media manager, Blossom Ruby Brown, similarly says: “I got into Labubu right after Lisa started posting about them. I’m not a K-pop girl, but it was through the virality that Lisa brought to Labubu that then brought it to my For You Page.”

Many have been interested in bag charms for even longer, though, with several interviewees collecting them while traveling to places like Japan, France, South Korea, and Taiwan. Freelance fashion writer Shelby Ying Hyde noted that bag charm personalization has been part of Asian culture for a long time, and explains: “I went to Japan and that further progressed my interest in this. I noticed that everyone had some sort of plushie keychain, whether they’re Gen Z or an older man going to the office. It seems to be a way for people to show a level of individuality and personality.”

So how do people style their Labubus and the like? Culture freelance writer Sofia Viera shares: “Last year, I was going into the office again so I needed a work bag, but it wasn’t going to be boring because I’m not boring. My first one was a backpack with a Sanrio plushie.” They also explained that they intentionally buy specific plushies for specific bags, noting that they pair especially well with puffy Baggu bags.

Houston-based senior sales engineer Alexa Peavey does a few things with her Labubu: attaches it to her travel backpack, to her vintage Fendi bag, or ties a skinny silk scarf into a bow onto it. Meanwhile, global PR and event planner James Hagenberg adds his Labubu, Tamagotchi, and additional charms onto a carabiner, which he swaps between bags or his pants’ belt loops.

Similarly, Tarzaban, enjoys attaching their Labubus onto their belts, saying: “Once you break free of the mold that there are rules, you can put that Labubu anywhere, and that’s really freeing.”

But there’s more context for why these plushies have amassed so much popularity and global fascination. And one of the major reasons seems to be a craving to reconnect with our inner child. “We lose that innocence and magic that we had as kids. So these collectibles and these plushies kind of enhance that feeling for us again,” says New York-based editor Jane Kim. “I feel like we’re able to bond and connect and giggle, and it just brings that child-like bond of trading toys.”

Nostalgia, and the mood-boosting feelings that come with it, is therefore another contributor to this trend’s success. “As someone who grew up in the Claire’s and Icing era, it feels very nostalgic,” says Ying Hyde.

London-based content creator and writer Amy Stockwell — who had Monchhichi-designed nails at the time of our chat — adds: “I think for a lot of people it gives them a sense of nostalgia. I love that people are discovering collecting again, or a fascination with toys.”

Likewise, publicist Simone Francese — who previously ran a Japanese nail art salon and discovered Monchhichis and Sonny Angels through her technicians and customers — explains: “I looked at it and I totally got it. It hits home to my Sanrio heart going to the mall as a pre-teen.” Francese also thinks: “It’s sort of like a little escapism. And it’s not this designer piece that you saved up for. It’s something that everyone can pretty much take part in.” She adds: “It’s so insane looking. It literally looks like a gremlin on LSD. I think it’s so playful in a time that also feels very serious. Either you get it or you don’t.”

Labubu, and collectible plushie keychains in general, have created a kind of subculture and meaningful communities. Peavey called them out as a conversation starter, and Viera claims that they’re a great way to make friends in the wild. Tarzaban agrees, explaining: “Since we’re in such a digital age, we crave something physical so deeply, and this is a bond that you can have with people, unspoken.”

Several interviewees also shared that Labubus allow under-represented communities to connect and joyfully express themselves. Stockwell shares that her love of collecting trinkets brought Labubu to her attention. “I collect from a point of view that makes me happy because I’m autistic,” she says. “If there’s a whimsical little guy that’s like a weird figurine, I’m going to buy it.” 

Brown, who affectionately calls Labubu “ugly-cute,” says: “I have always been someone who reconnects with my younger self, and my transition kind of forced me to nurture my younger self in certain ways. And I actually think that a lot of what’s going on with Labubu right now around the world is that people are finding comfort in easily accessible comfort.”

Meanwhile, Adigun further explains her connection to Labubu. “As a Black woman, I don’t want to have something that doesn’t necessarily represent me. For example, Sonny Angel — I can feel excluded from those things. It’s a little white baby, which is cute, but doesn’t really make sense for me to have on my phone. So, these little monster babies are just furry and hairy. It’s a little bit easier for me.”

While Labubus used to be more accessible to buy, the limited-quantity drops combined with a rapid rise in popularity have made the shopping experience somewhat stressful for people, since they tend to sell out almost instantaneously, leaving fans with empty carts.

This has also prompted a larger discussion on whether people are buying them for joy, or for clout. “I think for a lot of people, it’s because their favorite celebrity or influencer is buying them, which I find quite disheartening,” says Stockwell, adding: “It’s become more of a cultural icon; like a status symbol to have one now, rather than it actually having any enjoyment for a lot of people.” 

But interactive museum worker Lana Humes embraces the attention her Labubu brings. “I’ve had people stop me on the street to compliment it. One time a girl said it was the first one she’d seen in person and she asked to hold it. It’s like its own little celebrity!”

And when predicting the longevity of collecting and styling Labubus and plushie bag charms, some consider them a fad (“I enjoy it and I think it’s silly and fun, but it definitely will be a faux pas in a few months,” says Hagenberg), while others favor them lasting (“It gives me hope that this trend will last for a long time since it is tapping into something we used to do in the past,” says Adigun).

Speaking with fans and collectors genuinely filled me with joy because of their joy and enthusiasm. Learning about this whimsical universe and everyone’s personal reasons for accessorizing with plushies was eye-opening, and revealed just how prominent “little treat culture” has become in culturally serious times. (I see a plushie keychain every time I leave the house now.)

So if you want to experiment with styling plushie bag charms, like myself, don’t stress over getting the newest (impossible-to-cart-up) style. Instead, get excited to discover and gradually collect playful designs that speak to you and make your inner child’s heart sing. Then, when you look at your bag, you’ll get — as Kim says — a “boost of serotonin.”

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

6 Handbag Trends To Tote Around This Spring

Yes, You Can Wear Butter Yellow — Here's How

18 Ways to Style Bag Charms (With Bags To Match)

Friday, May 2, 2025

The 26 Best Jumpsuits For A One-&-Done Spring ‘Fit

While we love slinky slip dresses and trendy bubble hem skirts, we're also fans of throw-on-and-go jumpsuits. Not only does it eliminate outfit guesswork, but the pants element makes it ideal for striding in style (without risking any accidental flashes along the way). Plus, there's an ease that comes with pulling on a onesie — a feeling we fully embrace as the weather warms up.

This wardrobe hero is built for just about anything — bike rides, travel days, spontaneous dance sessions, or sprawling out at home. Whether you're searching for a casual athleisure jumpsuit, a sleek white jumpsuit for summer, or a red jumpsuit that turns heads, there’s a version for every vibe, including petite jumpsuits and plus-size jumpsuits, that don’t compromise on fit or style. 

Ahead, we’ve rounded up 26 of the best jumpsuits — including on-trend silhouettes and fresh updates in denim, linen, and statement-making colors. Whether you're shopping for a tailored black jumpsuit you can dress up for a wedding or just want a breezy one-and-done piece to wear on repeat, these picks are the ones worth jumping on.

All linked products are independently selected by our editors. If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission.

For more can't-miss shopping stories delivered straight to your inbox, sign up for our Most Wanted newsletter.

H&M Denim Jumpsuit



H&M Denim Jumpsuit, $, available at H&M

Gap Linen-Blend Seamed Jumpsuit




Gap Linen-Blend Seamed Jumpsuit, $, available at Gap

Free People Retro Heatwave Gingham One-Piece



Free People Retro Heatwave Gingham One-Piece, $, available at Free People

Farm Rio Red Petals Cup Wide Leg Linen Jumpsuit



Farm Rio Red Petals Cup Wide Leg Linen Jumpsuit, $, available at Nordstrom

Old Navy Smocked-Waist Wide-Leg Jumpsuit



Old Navy Smocked-Waist Wide-Leg Jumpsuit, $, available at Old Navy

FP Movement Inbound Onesie



FP Movement Inbound Onesie, $, available at Free People

Abercrombie & Fitch Linen-Blend Apron Jumpsuit



Abercrombie & Fitch Linen-Blend Apron Jumpsuit, $, available at Abercrombie & Fitch

Mango Linen jumpsuit With Polka-Dots and Belt



Mango Linen Jumpsuit with Polka-Dots and Belt, $, available at Mango

Sézane Brooklyn Jumpsuit



Sézane Brooklyn Jumpsuit, $, available at Sézane

Quince 100% Organic Cotton Gauze Smocked Wide Leg Jumpsuit



Quince 100% Organic Cotton Gauze Smocked Wide Leg Jumpsuit, $, available at Quince

Madewell Denim Pleated Barrel-Leg Jumpsuit



Madewell Denim Pleated Barrel-Leg Jumpsuit, $, available at Madewell

Pistola Becca Zip Front Utility Jumpsuit



Pistola Becca Zip Front Utility Jumpsuit, $, available at Nordstom

Everlane The Utility Coverall



Everlane The Utility Coverall, $, available at Everlane

Selkie The Tea Towel Hamptons Jumpsuit



Selkie The Tea Towel Hamptons Jumpsuit, $, available at Selkie

Anthropologie Linen Strapless Trouser Jumpsuit



Anthropologie Linen Strapless Trouser Jumpsuit, $, available at Anthropologie

& Other Stories Belted Jumpsuit



& Other Stories Belted Jumpsuit, $, available at & Other Sotires

Wilfred Squire Jumpsuit



Wilfred Squire Jumpsuit, $, available at Aritzia

Ann Taylor Petite Linen Blend Wide Leg Jumpsuit



Ann Taylor Petite Linen Blend Wide Leg Jumpsuit, $, available at Ann Taylor

Banana Republic The White Lotus Poplin Utility Jumpsuit



Banana Republic The White Lotus Poplin Utility Jumpsuit, $, available at Banana Republic

A New Day Jumpsuit



A New Day Jumpsuit, $, available at Target

ASOS DESIGN Curve Tie Front Wide Leg Jumpsuit



ASOS DESIGN Curve Tie Front Wide Leg Jumpsuit, $, available at ASOS

Reformation Michelle Jumpsuit



Reformation Michelle Jumpsuit, $, available at Reformation

Eloquii Barrel Leg Denim Jumpsuit



Eloquii Barrel Leg Denim Jumpsuit, $, available at Eloquii

Petal & Pup Ayla Tie Shoulder Wide Leg Linen Jumpsuit



Petal & Pup Ayla Tie Shoulder Wide Leg Linen Jumpsuit, $, available at Nordstrom

Universal Standard Promenade Linen Jumpsuit



Universal Standard Promenade Linen Jumpsuit, $, available at Universal Standard

COS Short-Sleeved Jumpsuit



COS Short-Sleeved Jumpsuit, $, available at COS

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

6 Coat and Jacket Trends For Spring 2024

The 15 Best Linen Dresses To Prep For Summer Heat

Spring Wedding Guest Dresses For Every Dress Code

Refinery29 Loves: Everything To See & Shop In May

Welcome to Refinery29 Loves, the monthly news bulletin where you’ll find our editor-approved lineup of the best to shop and see in fashion and beauty right now. 

The arrival of the first Monday in May means one thing: The 2025 Met Gala is returning to New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. The annual fashion event will celebrate the Costume Institute’s newest exhibition —  “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” inspired by Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity by Monica L. Miller — and see Lewis Hamilton, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky and Pharrell Williams join Anna Wintour as co-chairs, as well as Doechii, Ayo Edebiri, Janelle Monáe, Tyla and more as part of the host committee.

So while we wait to see the evening unfold, we’re turning our attention to the new fashion and beauty launches making waves this month. From a new spring scent to a major designer collaboration, click through the slideshow ahead to learn about everything heading your way this May.

Levi's Blue Tab Collection


Levi's is combining its rich Americana history with Japanese-inspired craftsmanship and contemporary, elevated aesthetics in its new collection: Blue Tab. Find elevated takes on classic Levi's jeans, plus new styles of tops, skirts, and outerwear — think column jeans made with Japanese denim, a ruffled top, a seamed maxi skirt, and a barn jacket. Prices range from $178 to $368.

Shop now at Levi's.

Levi's Lined Seamed Trucker, $, available at Levi's

Chanel Eau Splendide



A new season often calls for switching up your scent, and Chanel’s latest fragrance couldn’t have come at a better time. Joining the colorful Chance cohort, Splendide’s lilac liquid is both fruity and floral, blending sparkling raspberry with powdery violet. Its heart notes include sweet rose geranium, some of which was even grown in Chanel’s perfumery garden in the South of France. Notes of cedar and white musk round out the fragrance. This is a spring scent if there ever was one.

Shop now at Chanel

Chanel Chance Eau Splendide, $, available at Chanel

Rixo x Dragon Diffusion



If you’ve seen people walking around with beautifully woven basket bags this spring, they are likely from Dragon Diffusion. Known for its colorful leather and intricate braiding, the Brussels-based brand is now collaborating with our favorite dress brand Rixo for a limited-edition seven-piece accessories collection. The handcrafted pieces incorporate Rixo’s love of vintage fashion, taking inspiration from traditional woven leather bags. Comprised of a large basket bag, a smaller shoulder bag, and braided statement belts, the collection has European Summer written all over it.

Pre-orders start on May 2 and shop at Rixo from May 12.

Charlotte Tilbury Rock ‘N’ Kohl Eye Pencils New Shades



The Charlotte Tilbury kajal eye pencils are much-loved for many reasons, namely the creamy formula, long-lasting power, and sparkling shades. The product has had a revamp for spring, introducing a new smudger tip for creating an effortless lived-in look, plus four brand new shades. For those who like a metallic finish, Smoked Bronze is a classic warm brown with flecks of pink and orange. For a statement eye, Hypnotic Peacock is the perfect shimmering green, or go for Sapphire Nights for a deep ocean blue. Don’t worry, there’s something for matte lovers, too, with sophisticated plum shade Fig Smoulder adding a perfect pop of color.

Shop now at Charlotte Tilbury

Charlotte Tilbury Rock 'n' Kohl, $, available at Charlotte Tilbury

Mercules x Lilly Sisto


If you’re familiar with content creator Lilly Sisto, you probably covet her sense of style. Now you can channel her effortless New York-City-meets-European aesthetic with her new collection with Spanish handbag brand Mercules. The Mercules x Lilly Sisto limited-edition capsule features four styles, such as a woven basket bag with leather straps, a spacious gingham tote bag, and a compact shoulder bag that can also be worn as a crossbody. “This collaboration was about creating a collection that feels deeply personal but incredibly wearable,” Sisto said in a press release. “I wanted to reimagine the types of bags I reach for every summer vacation — ones that feel luxurious, a little nostalgic, and tell a story of summer adventures.”

Shop at Mercules 

NARS Hot Escape Collection



Summer is coming and if you’re lucky, that might mean travelling to somewhere hot and beachy. NARS’ latest drop speaks to this sandy dream, with a South of France-inspired eye, cheek, and lip collection. Housed in compacts modeled after the famous striped sun umbrellas, the cheek palettes come in four different shade sets, each containing two blushes, a highlighter, and a silky bronzer. For the eyes, the collection has a new set of shadow sticks, including lavender, champagne, and burgundy shimmers. But if it’s a glittering lip you’re after, the Afterglow Lip Oils offer hues like classic Orgasm (a peachy gold) to Wondrous, a tart berry shade.

Shop on May 19 at NARS

ROKSANDA & Other Stories collection



To celebrate the imminent arrival of summer, Roksanda Ilinčić is teaming up with & Other Stories to launch a sunset-inspired collection. Embracing bold oranges, reds, and yellows, the capsule speaks to the London fashion designer’s love of bold silhouettes, with layered ruffle dresses with statement sleeves, sculptural sun hats, linen blazers, and pearl earrings.

Shop on May 15 at & Other Stories

Dr. Scholl's x Favorite Daughter


When it comes to shoes, all-day comfort and fashion can be hard to find in a single pair. Enter Dr. Scholl’s x Favorite Daughter. The footwear brand, known for its supportive styles, has teamed up with Erin and Sara Foster’s fashion label to reimagine two Dr. Scholl’s staples. The first is the Heartbreak Heel, a take on the OG Dr. Scholl’s sandals, which now feature a kitten heel (a first for the brand) and come in five different colorways (including the textural Toffee Calf Hair). There’s also a new version of the TikTok-popular FD01 sneakers, with a cushion-y sole and two shades on offer. 

Shop at Dr. Scholl’s on May 13

Shiseido Expert Sun Protector Clear Suncare Stick SPF 50+



The original Shiseido sunblock stick was viral for a reason, thanks to its easy glide application, water-resistant capabilities and all-around handbag friendliness. Now, the beloved product has been reformulated, this time with 65% skincare ingredients, including nourishing argan oil and Profense CL (botanicals that help prevent skin damage and dark spots). Easily applied before or after makeup, this is made for those seeking powerful sun protection with a lightweight finish.

Shop now at Shiseido

Shiseido Suncare Clear Stick SPF50+, $, available at Shiseido

Alexa Chung x Vinted



Have you always wanted to raid an It Girl’s wardrobe? Well, now you can, thanks to model-designer Alexa Chung teaming up with Vinted to resell some seriously covetable items. The collaboration means 28 pieces from Chung’s closet will be on sale, including metallic Dries Van Noten trainers, a Dôen silk slip, Saint Laurent ballet flats, Gucci sunglasses, and a rhinestone Prada bag. Plus, all the proceeds go to Endometriosis UK, a charity supporting women through diagnosis and treatment.

Shop on May 5 on Vinted

Dries Van Noten Silver Trainers, $, available at Vinted

ghd New Wave



Hair wavers have made a comeback in recent years thanks to our love for looser, lived-in curls. But nothing has created a stir quite like the three-barrelled waver, with many praising how easily they create crease-free curls. Hair industry legend ghd is joining the conversation with a new triple waver that promises two times less frizz, 30% more shine and no extreme heat damage. For those who want beachy waves that stay all day (the tool reaches the optimum styling temperature of 185°), this is the heat styler for you.

Shop now at ghd

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

R29 Loves: Everything To See & Shop In April

24 Spring Fashion Must-Haves Editors Are Wearing

This Weekend's Best Sales, According To Us

Thursday, May 1, 2025

What is Black Dandyism? Breaking Down This Year’s Met Gala Theme

The biggest night in fashion is upon us. The 2025 The Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala, best known as the Met Gala, is Monday, May 5, and this year’s theme is “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.” It’s an ode to Black dandyism in all of its refined and sophisticated glory. 

The theme is inspired by Barnard professor and guest curator Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. But prior to the theme reveal, those not in the trenches of fashion may have never even heard of Black dandyism. But most likely, they could identify it: a well-tailored suit, hard-bottom shoes and a flamboyant hat or walking cane to bring it all together. 

The Met will “illustrate how Black people transformed from being enslaved and stylised as luxury items, acquired like any other signifier of wealth and status, to autonomous self-fashioning individuals who are global trendsetters,” according to Vogue.

This year’s Met Gala co-chairs are Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky, Lewis Hamilton and Pharrell Williams. Each of their respective styles is an example of modern day Black dandyism. And even though that may paint a picture, that doesn’t exactly define Black dandyism. Before Monday’s big event, here’s a definitive guide to this year’s theme.

What is Black dandyism?

On its surface, a dandy is defined as “a man unduly devoted to style, neatness, and fashion in dress and appearance,” as noted by the Oxford Dictionary. But historically, dandyism has roots in 18th century Britain when enslaved Black people were used as accessories for white people to flaunt their wealth. During the transatlantic slave trade, enslavers dressed Black people in extravagant clothing and paraded them around, calling them “luxury slaves.” It was used as a dehumanizing form of minstrelsy that further objectified Black men. 

As time went on, Black people reclaimed Black dandyism. What once was used to demean us became a subversive tool for resistance throughout the diaspora. Historical giants Booker T. Washington and W.E.B. DuBois used fashion to command respect, dignity and authority during the Reconstruction and post-Reconstruction eras. 

During the Harlem Renaissance, Zora Neale Hurston, Langston Hughes, James Baldwin and others continued the tradition of dandyism, pushing for both revolution and agency with their own style. Their fashion wasn’t asking for permission, rather running to the edge of social convention and daring the rest of the world to keep up.

Fashion historian and assistant curator of The Cleveland Museum of Art Darnell-Jamal Lisby told CDFA that Black style has long been a tool to communicate and navigate power.

“It forges cultural expressions independent of Eurocentric definitions,” he said. “Black dandyism, in particular, carves out identity – at times rejecting Eurocentric ideals and at others existing within or alongside them. This refined self-styling conveys Black agency and consciousness.”

Even to this day, we see Black dandyism as a bold form of expression and rejection of the boxes society aims to keep us in. It’s evolved to include more contemporary interpretations, including streetwear and haute couture. 

What are some modern examples of Black dandyism?

Today’s dandyism emphasizes bold colors, extravagant accessories and unique tailoring, but is still rooted in Black self-expression. Along with the co-chairs, great examples of modern day those who draw from dandism are Janelle Monáe with her perfectly-fit suits, Ayo Adebiri and her red carpet looks (often courtesy of Thom Browne), and Jidenna in his “Classic Man” era. Vogue’s May issue, captured by Tyler Mitchell and styled by Law Roach, features Domingo, Rocky, Adebiri, Monáe, Lakeith Stanfield, John Batiste and more Black stars breaking down their interpretation of dandyism.

Pharrell along with André 3000, a host committee member, and Big Boi of Outkast have helped reshape dandyism from a hip-hop lens, leading to younger acts like Tyler, the Creator to adapt the style. Playwright Jeremy O. Harris called himself a dandy, in a recent Vogue essay, “To be a Black dandy is to dress as though you know you’re loved and therefore have no use for shame.”

Fashion icons Dapper Dan, also a host committee member, and June Ambrose are also exemplary dandies whose impactful contributions have helped the style evolve over the years.

It must also be noted that one of the most prolific recent examples was the late André Leon Talley. The Vogue editor and fashion icon was the magazine’s first Black male creative director. His passion for fashion and tailoring was apparent, as his voice became the one you wanted to hear every Met Gala up until his death in 2022. And it’s a voice that will be deeply missed this year as the theme feels like it was made especially for him. 

Why is this year’s Met gala theme important?

On fashion’s biggest night, all eyes will be on the attendees paying homage to a timeless style with roots in Black history. It’s the first time in more than 20 years that the exhibit exclusively features menswear. It’s also the first time in history that the co-chairs of the Met Gala are all Black men, with LeBron James as honorary co-shair. 

The actual exhibition will tell the story of Black dandyism’s evolution over time through clothing and accessories, showcasing the work of designers like Virgil Abloh and Grace Wales Bonner. It will also highlight style in living rooms, lecture halls and night clubs. The exhibition opens on May 10 and runs until Oct. 26. 

“Dandyism can seem frivolous, but it often poses a challenge to or a transcendence of social and cultural hierarchies,” Miller, who’s also  professor and chair of Barnard’s Africana Studies Department, said in a statement. “It asks questions about identity, representation, and mobility in relation to race, class, gender, sexuality, and power. This exhibition explores dandyism as both a pronouncement and a provocation.”

This year’s theme also comes at a time when diversity, equity and inclusion initiatives are under legislative attack, leaving even non-federal organizations folding under the pressure. Add onto that the fashion industry’s less than welcoming reputation for inclusivity.

Met curator Andrew Bolton told Vogue that this show signifies a big step in the museum’s commitment to diversity “as well as redressing some of the historical biases within our curatorial practice.” He continued, “It’s very much about making fashion at the Met more of a gateway to access and inclusivity.”

The theme is Black as hell. What could go wrong?

This is the first time a Met Gala theme will be honoring Black style specifically. Though the moment is celebratory and long overdue, it’s giving some pause. Historically speaking, many white people have had a hard time — or just been plain ignorant — about the line between appreciation and appropriation of Black culture. From cornrows to trends deemed as “ghetto fabulous,” all too often we’ve seen mainstream culture co-opt and capitalize off of Black culture while simultaneously villainizing those who created it. 

Though the dress code is “Tailored for You,” a nod to the exhibition’s focus, some social media users fear there will be non-Black attendees who may make racist and egregious choices. (Blackface isn’t totally outside of the realm of possibilities, unfortunately, some believe.) 

One person on X said “I’m still nervous about this Met Gala theme [because] it can get real racist, REAL fast.” Some have also noted that they will be keeping their eye out for notable figures who should be at this year’s gala but have never been invited in years prior. Bria Van Cooten posted a TikTok video calling out the Costume Institution for never inviting Ambrose, an influential dandy and costume designer. While things could go sideways, it is refreshing that this year’s theme is honoring the impact of Black style. Let’s hope white celebs read the room and approach their outfit choices wisely, and with the reverence the theme deserves. Overall, viewers just want to tap into their inner Miranda Priestly, not their inner Jesse Jackson.

The Met Gala will take place on Monday, May 5 in New York City. Viewers can watch live coverage on Vogue’s YouTube channel, E! and Peacock at 6 p.m. ET. And keep it locked to @r29unbothered on Tiktok and Instagram for our coverage!

Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?

A Tribute To The Best Met Gala Looks Of All Time

The Best Looks At The 2024 Met Gala

Black Celebrities That Slayed The Met Gala 2023