Back then, nearly everything was oversized and slouchy, with Snuffleupagus-ish silhouettes ready to cloak us into obscurity. That, and the fashion world was obsessed with end-of-the-world wears, eerily in sync with the events that were looming on the horizon. Now, after emerging from a claustrophobic and entirely digital fashion existence, the view is quite different.
Designers being a flighty bunch, they didn’t stick to one era. Dipping deeper into the history books, Rodarte, Brandon Maxwell, and Monse were all in the mood for shrooms circa 1973, adding the trippy motif into their spring assortments. Reaching even further back were brands like Markarian, Collina Strada, and Christian Siriano with their myriad Regencycore references — tied, of course, to Netflix’s steamy and ultra-popular drama series Bridgerton. God save the corset!
See below just how much fashion has changed since the last round of IRL shows.
Micro Mini
And the hemlines just keep on edging higher up. After a selection of very short fashions at Paris Fashion Week in July — most notably displayed on Bella Hadid at Off-White’s runway show — we thought we’d seen skirts and dresses get as close to the third rail as they could ever get. And yet, on the catwalks at Saint Sintra, Kim Shui, Theophilio, and more, the crops were ever more cropped. But after months and months locked up inside, who can blame us for wanting to show ourselves off. We’re not just pixels — we’re made of skin! Plus, what’s not to love about a girl with a short skirt (and a loooong jacket)?
Kim ShuiTheophilioSaint SintraPhotography by Neva Wireko.
Tiny Cardigans
Last season’s crochet craze lives on in the form of miniature cardigans. From Markarian’s pin top-style sweater to Brandon Maxwell’s gingham cardigans worn over-the-shoulder, it’s safe to say that designers are giving women more options to be comfy and ready for unexpected changes in weather. After all, a cardigan over one’s shoulder is sometimes the closest thing to a hug.
Maryam Nassir ZadehBrandon MaxwellSandy Liang
The Naked Dress
Speaking of showing everything off, nothing does the trick quite like a naked dress. This season, the likes of Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Rodarte, Christian Siriano, and Saint Sintra sent their models down the catwalk in skin-showing dresses that were equal parts slight in fabric and chic, many being constructed out of translucent mesh or lace.
Saint SintraChristian SirianoEckhaus LattaPhoto: Don Ashby.
Low Rise
Holding out hope that low-rise pants won’t actually make a comeback in 2021? Hate to break it to you, but designers like Brandon Maxwell, Maryam Nassir Zadeh, Collina Strada, Kim Shui, and more just buoyed the oft-maligned pant silhouette by including belly-baring pant styles in their spring collections. There’s nothing left to do now but embrace them (and maybe buy some low-rise undies).
Brandon MaxwellPhoto: courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.Maryam Nassir ZadehSandy LiangCollina Strada
Over Undies
That, or you could always just let your underwear roam free, an eye-catching trend that was spotted at shows like Theophilo, Victor Glemaud, Maisie Wilen, and Saint Sintra. Gone are the days when your pants, skirts, and dresses were meant to be worn on top of your undergarments, a pair of standard-issue boyshorts or a bikini lurking unseen below. For spring, fashion’s finest wants you to flash your panties… on purpose.
Victor GlemaudSandy LiangAnna Sui
Bridgerton Extra
One would think that after more than a year at home, fashion would embrace the comfort-first reality altogether. But if spring 2022 trends are any indication, corsets are here to stay. While 2021 corsets were the epitome of Regencycore, in 2022, we’ll adopt waist-worshipping silhouettes in everything from strapless tube tops to structured bodices with flouncy skirts. Sit up straight, here comes the lace.
Collina StradaMarkarianPhoto: Dan Lecca.Elena Velez
Mushroom Motifs
There’s a fungus among us, and we’re not complaining. Let’s be honest: reality is pretty grim right now. So we can’t blame fashion for getting a bit high on mushrooms — or at least, hinting at the possibility. Designers like Monse, Rodarte, and Brandon Maxwell showed mushroom motifs in their spring collections with prints of pastel-colored fungi and cartoon-style ‘shrooms.
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